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Review: The new Grand Seiko SBGW283
We do a short take review of the new hand wound mechanical Grand Seiko SBGW283 "Kishun" with a beautiful textured ice blue dial.
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We do a short take review of the new hand wound mechanical Grand Seiko SBGW283 "Kishun" with a beautiful textured ice blue dial.
SJX Watches
A modern-day specialty of Seiko, artisanal crafts such as enamel and porcelain are found in several of the brand’s collections across the price spectrum, although they are perhaps most associated with Seiko’s line of affordable, mechanical dress watches, the Presage. While past Presage offerings with artisanal dials were typically paired with simple complications such as a power reserve indicator or date, the latest arrival keeps the dial clean. The Presage Craftsmanship Series Arita Porcelain is made up of a pair of time-only wristwatches, the SPB239 with a white dial and the SPB319 with a light blue dial. The SPB239 is accompanied with a metal bracelet Initial thoughts The latest Presage demonstrates a progressive evolution in the watchmaker’s aesthetics. Traditionally its automatic three-handers have always had a date, but the date window usually looked out of place. That was especially so for the artisanal dials, where date distracts from the beautiful, hand-made dials. In short, the fact the new Presage moves away from the date is a good thing. Also notable is the gently sunken dial. It’s executed almost seamlessly with a clean, gentle transition between the two levels. This contrasts with past Presage models that had complications, resulting in sunken indicators. In fact, the porcelain dial brings to mind another time-only watch with an enamel dial, the Breguet Classique 7147, which has an elegantly sunken seconds. The only thing I would change about ...
Deployant
aeger-LeCoultre extends the Polaris Date with a new edition in a dégradé green lacquer dial. Here is our hands on session review of this novelty.
Time+Tide
Editor’s Note: Andrew here, and it just dawned on me as I read this piece by Fergus that the true modern master of democratisation, Dan Henry, has not only done it again with an “evocation of an era” as Ferg eloquently puts it. No, it’s more than that. In 2022, after a wave of desire … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Dan Henry 1945 offers rugged WW2-era style for the same price as a MoonSwatch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Launched in 2021, the Little Lange 1 Moon Phase was one of the simpler models in last year’s lineup but easily appealing. It is the first Lange 1 to have a dial made of aventurine glass, or “gold flux” as Lange labels it, a material rarely found on the brand’s watches but always popular when it makes an appearance. Conceived as a mens’ watch in 1998 – the average dress watch was still about 35 mm then – the Little Lange 1 has since evolved into a feminine watch. It’s basically the Lange 1 for ladies and the base model for a variety of female watches, often in pastel colours accented with mother-of-pearl or diamonds. The new Little Lange 1 continues the theme with its sparkly dial, but it stands apart from recent models in several ways; it feels different, perhaps even masculine. We take a close look at the Little Lange 1 to weight its appeal. Initial thoughts Thanks to off-centred yet logical displays, the Lange 1 is one of the most distinctive offerings from the German watchmaker. And the starry, aventurine glass dial, along with the moon phase, create a charming, slightly whimsical appeal that isn’t present on the standard models, which are formal and serious looking. Despite the shimmering, reflective dial, the new model is understated on the wrist, thanks to its dark colours and white metal case. These tone down the sparkle of the dial, which comes from the metallic inclusions in the glass. More appealing but equally understated are the star-shaped ...
Quill & Pad
“May I have your full attention? This is one of the most important watches ever.” As Sotheby’s auctioneer Benoît Colson opened lot 72 on May 10, 2022, the room seemed to hold its collective breath for a moment. He continued, “The personal Royal Oak of Gérald Genta – you could not dream of a better provenance for a Royal Oak, an Audemars Piguet, or even any wristwatch.” And here's how the world record price for a vintage AP Royal Oak went down from an eyewitness.
Time+Tide
I am certainly an advocate of your wrist, your wallet, your choice. I don’t ever want to “purchase shame” a watch collector. But, while I understand how the recent Rolex OP results happened, somehow they still baffle me. Discontinued plus Rolex always equals premium prices. This is nothing new. And watches like the Rolex OP … ContinuedThe post Are you kidding me? Two stock-standard Rolex OP watches each sell for over CHF 50K at Christie’s appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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One moment you’re in your lane making jewelry, the next you’re out breaking watchmaking records at an unsettling rate – just another Tuesday at Maison Bulgari then. Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo line has been around for (only) eight years and has broken as many thinness records. One of these world beaters is none other than theRead More
Quill & Pad
Trilobe's Une Folle Journée expands upward and outward to expose the mechanical ingenuity behind the dial with a three-dimensional display reminiscent of an exploded view of a movement. Joshua Munchow is a fan and explains why here.
Hodinkee
The Horological Society of New York handed out a record $100k in scholarships this year – these are a few of the recipients.
Time+Tide
EDITOR’S NOTE: John Karambelas is the man behind @barnfindwatches, an Instagram account that documents his watch-collecting adventures as he attempts to uncover old watches gathering dust in flea markets and thrift stores across America. Here, John shares the story of his ultimate barn find, which he randomly stumbled upon while driving through the Mojave Desert. … ContinuedThe post The ultimate Rolex barn find in the desert: “I’ve been watch-hunting for 30 years, but never found anything like this…” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
What we love: Good size for most wristsModern design and unobtrusiveGreat looking and long-lasting green and blue lume What we don’t love: Some may find embossed case back can be a little irritating on the wristLess than the standard 38hr power reserve on the AutomaticSome wearers may find the large crown tends to stick out more and can irritate the wrist/back of the hand Overall rating: 7.75/10 Value for money: 7.0/10 Wearability: 7.0/ 10 Design: 8.5/10 Build quality: 8.0/10 After reviewing the TAG Heuer 60th Anniversary Autavia Flyback Chronograph the last week, I was eager to see how this new era of TAG translated to the newly released Aquaracer Professional 200 – a modern take on the classic Aquaracer line. Whilst the watch is in no way in the same league as the Autavia, nor should it be at the price point ($4,000 AUD for the Auto, $2,950 for the Quartz), I came away with mixed feelings about this newly released line. A New Chapter In The Story The Aquaracer story began in 1978 when Jack Heuer introduced the Heuer Reference 844. Designed for men and women who loved outdoor sports and adventures in nature – on land or in the water – the watch defined a new high-performance category of versatile wristwatches that could be relied on in extreme conditions. The Aquaracer name was added in 2004 and continued the legacy of the family’s six design codes: a unidirectional rotating bezel; a screw-down crown; water resistance to at least 200 metres; luminous markings; a...
Hodinkee
A mechanical bluebird of happiness.
Deployant
Watches as wearable art? In this week's article, we will show you the artisanal and incredibly alluring side of timepieces.
Time+Tide
“I thought on a great day it could do a million,” says Eric Ku, co-founder of Loupe This, the auction platform that just sold a Cartier ‘London’ Crash for $1,503,880 USD, the most expensive Cartier watch ever sold at auction. The watch was part of ‘Cartier Week’, which we wrote about here. “On the night, … ContinuedThe post “I still can’t digest.” Auctioneer and proper bossman Eric Ku responds to $1.5m result for Cartier London Crash 😱 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
After obtaining a Delta Dolce Vita Oversized at the conclusion of his Italian period, Martin Green was a very happy man. The pen served him very well, and he was in love with the looks as well as the writing experience. And while Martin wasn't looking for a replacement pen, it happened anyway . . . with some very famous brands. Read the third part of his writing instrument odyssey here.
Hodinkee
One of the biggest motorsports events of the year is also a major watch-fest.
An in-depth, behind-the-scenes look at what it takes to bring you a game of chess at 200mph.
Hodinkee
Returning to the spiritual home of the Monaco and the city's famous Grand Prix weekend.
SJX Watches
François-Paul Journe is perhaps the most successful living independent watchmaker – so successful that some of his watches have entered the same “hype” territory occupied by watches like the Nautilus and Royal Oak – which might mean that casting about for an overlooked F.P. Journe watch is a fool’s errand. But the brand does have a few hidden gems in amongst its past offerings, with the Zodiaque being one such watch. And Phillips’ upcoming Geneva sale has a one-off version that I had never seen in person until recently, the Zodiaque “Children Action” – which will be sold to benefit the titular children’s charity. The original Zodiaque. Image – Phillips The original Zodiaque debuted in 2004, just five years after the brand was founded, in a limited edition of 150 pieces. Despite its distinctive aesthetic and esoteric complication, the Zodiaque never enjoyed the success of its peers at the time, perhaps because of that very complication, which indicates the signs of zodiac with an annual calendar ring. Remember that in the years after the brand’s founding in 1999, F.P. Journe was merely a startup founded by a talented watchmaker with a peculiar personality; his watches weren’t exactly flying off the shelves. Yet Mr Journe still created this one-off watch for a good cause, which eventually became a yearly affair with the brand contributing unique watches to several charities, including subsequent timepieces for Children Action and of course the rec...
Time+Tide
Last year, the Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 collection turned 100 years old. But when a design remains incredibly compelling for over a century, you’ve got to admit that it goes beyond mere stylistic whims as Andrew discovered when he tried it out for a week on the wrist. There’s no denying that Vacheron Constantin … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: A week on the wrist with the Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
One of the great positives about Grower Champagne is that more and more stars continue to emerge. And one name that has been appearing on the radar more often is Laherte Frères. Ken Gargett takes a closer look and a few tastes.
SJX Watches
Phillips’ upcoming auction in Geneva is a 201-lot sale that comprises a myriad of rare and unusual timepieces. The selection of independent watchmaking at The Geneva Watch Auction: XV is particularly interesting, including several early and historically significant timepieces from high-profile brands. We round up five of the most notable watches, ranging from an F.P. Journe Resonance from the year of its launch, as well as early, unique pieces from Daniel Roth and Kari Voutilainen, a skeleton, double-face tourbillon and Decimal Repeater respectively. The Daniel Roth double-face tourbillon that is possibly unique thanks to the sapphire dials on both the front and back Granted, several of the watches we’re covering below will finish well into six figures. But even if you are not planning to bid, they are worth learning about. We provide a close look at rare watches that are rarely encountered. That said, there’s an eminently affordable example of excellent, honest independent watchmaking in the sale: the Habring² Erwin “Star”, the first-ever SJX Edition that was launched last year to 10th anniversary of this site. Though a handful have sold on the secondary market since – including one that sold on Loupe This for US$15,400 – this is the first example to go under the hammer at a major, international auction house. The Geneva Watch Auction: XV takes place at Hôtel La Réserve in Geneva, with the first session happening on May 7 and the second session on the day...
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We do a deep dive on the new Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur, a new two timezone watch from the house of Hermés with not only beauty, but also with brains.
Time+Tide
Bremont is a brand that needs little introduction. Based in Henley-on-Thames in the UK, they’ve become closely associated with tough, tool watches inspired by military heritage; think pilot’s watches, field watches, diving watches and chronographs. The British watchmaker has been going from strength to strength in recent years including opening a new high-tech facility in the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bremont S500 Bamford Special Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
This year at Watches and Wonders, there were some new kids in on the block. For the first time ever, street and culture title Highsnobiety was invited to the media table, along with the usual specialist, trade and mainstream suspects. And you know what, it was a joy to have them there. Highsnob’s lifestyle and … ContinuedThe post Highsnobiety just reposted our Moser Streamliner Vantablack video, because it is pure voodoo insanity appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
At the 2016 World Whiskies Awards, Teeling Whiskey was awarded “World’s Best Irish Single Malt” and then in 2019 “World’s Best Single Malt.” Ken Gargett takes a look at (and a few drams of) a couple of the company's wonderful whiskeys and explains what makes them so exceptional.
Quill & Pad
In case you missed it, the last Friday in April has been declared International Viognier Day. So in honor of the occasion, Ken Gargett takes a dive into the vat of this often-overlooked white wine that nearly died out but was thankfully resurrected again.
Hodinkee
This Sea-Dweller is far from period-correct in our watch-related movie of the week.
Time+Tide
Every watch brand thinks about the message they are presenting to the world. Whether it be an ad campaign on social media or a picture in print, brands know these interactions prove the adage that you only get one chance to make a first impression. Especially in this day and age, where a simple foible … ContinuedThe post Why these restoration videos from Oris are the most satisfying things you’ll watch all day appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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