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Results for Above the Date Window

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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

15 Of The Best Starter Watches For Different Types of Enthusiasts Teddy Baldassarre
Oct 3, 2025

15 Of The Best Starter Watches For Different Types of Enthusiasts

The choice of where to begin a watch collection might just be the most personal decision you ever make in your collecting journey. Today, I will be acting as your watch inspiration fairy godmother and offer up what I think is a delectable platter of best starter watches to choose from for those gearing up to take the plunge into this hobby. Some rules of the road: today, I’m aiming for reasonably attainable watches that I think are suitable for confident beginners. My picks are more geared towards those who have already been bitten by the watch-collecting bug and have surpassed the “will I actually wear a watch regularly” conundrum. This is a necessary phase; we all go through it, but from now on, I will assume that you, dear reader, if you’ve found yourself here, that you are pretty damn confident that you want to wear a watch proudly on a daily basis. So without further ado, let’s get into the watches, shall we? Best GADA Starter Watch Contenders Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic   Case: 40mm Movement: 8210 Automatic Water Resistance: 50 meters (still water swimming) Price: $356.25 As an entry point into mechanical watches, Citizen and Seiko are really neck-in-neck on offering some of the best value for the price, with many solid automatic models available for under $500. These Japanese heavy hitters are really in a class of their own. But among the rather extensive contemporary catalog of Citizen watches, its Tsuyosa line offers the most versatility and GADA potenti...

First Look – The New Longines Ultra-Chron Classic, the 1967 High-Frequency Watch Faithfully Re-Created Monochrome
Longines Ultra-Chron Classic Oct 3, 2025

First Look – The New Longines Ultra-Chron Classic, the 1967 High-Frequency Watch Faithfully Re-Created

Yesterday, Longines truly impressed with the release of the new Spirit Pilot collection, a duo of deeply refined watches that finally gave the aviation-themed collection the right proportions and a cleaner look. Well, it seems that the brand is on a roll, as today we’ll discover another highly appealing watch. Following the re-edition of the […]

Introducing – The new Cushion-Shaped Voutilainen KV20i Reversed CS Monochrome
Voutilainen Oct 3, 2025

Introducing – The new Cushion-Shaped Voutilainen KV20i Reversed CS

Kari Voutilainen is regarded as one of the greatest independent watchmakers on the scene today. Working from his atelier in Môtiers, Switzerland, the Finnish master watchmaker produces some of the most coveted complications, drawing collectors from near and far to admire his minute repeaters, tourbillons and other in-house delicacies. The latest marvel to emerge from […]

Omega Speedmaster vs Seamaster: The Icons Compared Teddy Baldassarre
Omega Oct 2, 2025

Omega Speedmaster vs Seamaster: The Icons Compared

If you're relatively new to the watch collecting game and are ready to graduate to your first Omega watch, you're probably pondering a question that has confronted many others before you: Speedmaster or Seamaster? Spaceworthy historical chronograph or tough but stylish diver? Buzz Aldrin or Jacques Cousteau? The official watch of NASA or the official watch of James Bond? Both of these megapopular Omega watches have rich, amazing stories to tell and both today offer a plethora of options in terms of colorways, materials, and even added complications - all while still remaining true to their heritage. In this feature, we compare and contrast the Omega Speedmaster vs Seamaster in the pursuit of helping prospective buyers make a (hopefully) more informed decision on their first - or next - Omega watch.  Omega Speedmaster vs Seamaster: Far From Their Roots In terms of seniority as a product family, the Omega Seamaster has almost a decade on its chronograph sibling. The Seamaster as we know it today is one of the most iconic of dive watches, but in 1948, when Omega introduced the first model by that name, the “dive watch” as we know it in the modern sense didn’t really exist. The original Omega Seamaster was positioned in contemporary advertisements as a watch for “town, sea, and country” - a dress watch for gentlemen that was distinguished from its many competitors by its adoption of a new waterproofing system that Omega had developed for the watches it produ...

Longines Makes Some Significant Updates to the Spirit Collection with a Pair of New Releases Worn & Wound
Longines Makes Some Significant Updates Oct 2, 2025

Longines Makes Some Significant Updates to the Spirit Collection with a Pair of New Releases

Longines has announced a pair of new watches in their Spirit collection today, and taken together it feels like a fairly significant shift and update for the five year old line. When the Spirit watches launched in 2020, it represented Longines making an attempt to develop watches that put more of a balance on contemporary vs. vintage inspired divide, having spent years carving out a niche as one of the most tasteful reinterpreters of their own back catalog. The Spirit watches were an entirely new invention but still leaned into the brand’s natural heritage appeal, and impressed from the start with excellent finishing and build quality. As the collection expanded over the years, it’s grown full of under the radar sleepers, but a handful of little issues are always mentioned by admittedly picky enthusiasts when new products drop. At least some of those seem to have been addressed between these new releases, updated versions of the Spirit Pilot and Spirit Pilot Flyback.  We’ll look at the Spirit Pilot Flyback first, as it’s a genuinely surprising and unexpected evolution of an ambitious watch that Longines debuted just two years ago. Longines has a long history with chronographs, and flyback chronographs specifically, so the introduction of a new flyback chrono at a competitive price point (at launch it came in under $5,000 in steel) was a big deal. Unfortunately, the case was just enormous, coming in at 42mm in diameter and around 17mm tall. The case height, in part...

Introducing – New Sector Dials for the Moritz Grossmann Benu Power Reserve Monochrome
Moritz Grossmann Oct 2, 2025

Introducing – New Sector Dials for the Moritz Grossmann Benu Power Reserve

Ferdinand Adolph Lange was the founding father of Glashütte’s proud watchmaking tradition, attracting like-minded entrepreneurs and suppliers of parts to the region. One of these was Lange’s good friend, Moritz Grossmann, who set up shop in 1854. Revived in 2008 by Christine Hutter, Moritz Grossmann is admired today for its original, ultra-refined, understated, beautifully crafted […]

IWC Pilot's Watches: The History and Ultimate Guide Teddy Baldassarre
IWC Oct 1, 2025

IWC Pilot's Watches: The History and Ultimate Guide

Few watch brands are as readily identified with aviation and the history of pilot’s watches than IWC, which not only gave the watch world two of the genre’s most iconic (and widely emulated) timepieces, the Big Pilot’s Watch and the Mark 11, but also has used both these groundbreaking models as foundations for a sprawling and diverse collection of contemporary aviation-inspired watches today. Here is the story of IWC Pilot’s Watches, from the Special Watch for Pilots to the Spitfire to the Top Gun, from simple three-hand to perpetual calendar, and everything in between.  F.A. Jones’ International Dream (1860s - 1930s)   IWC founder Florentine Ariosto Jones Other than the fact that he came to Switzerland in 1868, at the relatively tender age of 27, to become the first American-born founder of a Swiss watch company, little is known about the life of IWC patriarch Florentine Ariosto Jones. He was born in New Hampshire in 1841 and fought in the American Civil War for the Massachusetts Infantry. His postwar career at the renowned Massachusetts watchmaker E. Howard & Co. led to his European sojourn and the establishment of the International Watch Company in Schaffhausen, Switzerland. From the outset, Jones’ business plan was to marry the generational watchmaking expertise of the Swiss with the then-new, assembly-line production techniques of the U.S.A. His decision to locate his factory in Schaffhausen, near Switzerland’s northern border with Germany, rather tha...

The NATO Strap: A History And 10 Best NATO-Strap Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 30, 2025

The NATO Strap: A History And 10 Best NATO-Strap Watches

Once a style that appealed mainly to a small but diehard niche, watches with NATO straps have moved from their original realm of military utility to become a popular option in the mainstream world of watches, even at some of the highest echelons of sporty luxury. If you're considering adding a NATO strap to your collection, or are simply curious where they came from and what your choices are on the market today, we tackle all your questions below.  Why Is It Called a NATO Strap? One would assume, from the strap’s plainly utilitarian, military look, that the name is derived directly from an association with the North Atlantic Treaty organization (NATO), the intergovernmental alliance of 30 European and North American nations for mutual military defense. However, this is not exactly the case.  Essentially, a so-called NATO strap is any one-piece strap, made of nylon or some other fabric, that loops under the watch’s case and through its spring bars to hold it securely in place on the wrist. Like all inventions that originated for a military purpose, its design emphasized utility, practicality, and secure use on the field of battle: such a strap construction would hold the watch in place, albeit dangling precariously, even if one of the spring bars were broken. Armed forces in both the United States and Great Britain used these types of fabric straps as early as the mid-20th Century (predating the formation of NATO in 1949); at one point, they were referred to in shorth...

The Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante R.U.R. brings a playful robot animation to a means-business split-seconds chronograph Time+Tide
Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante R.U.R brings Sep 30, 2025

The Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante R.U.R. brings a playful robot animation to a means-business split-seconds chronograph

The new Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante R.U.R. merges a cheeky robot display with one of watchmaking's most complicated mechanisms.The post The Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante R.U.R. brings a playful robot animation to a means-business split-seconds chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Just Because – The MB&F; LM101 Longhorn & M.A.D.1S 20th Anniversary Pieces… That Will Be Offered! Monochrome
Jaeger-LeCoultre Sep 29, 2025

Just Because – The MB&F; LM101 Longhorn & M.A.D.1S 20th Anniversary Pieces… That Will Be Offered!

In 2005, a man with a vision created a brand that would become one of the greatest successes of the independent watchmaking scene. Max Büsser, coming from Jaeger-LeCoultre and Harry Winston, decided to fly solo and gave life to something unique, something that went beyond traditions, a horological concept laboratory, a venture inviting friends to […]

Patek Philippe Calatrava Review: The Quintessential Dress Watch? Teddy Baldassarre
Patek Philippe Sep 27, 2025

Patek Philippe Calatrava Review: The Quintessential Dress Watch?

More than 90 years ago, Patek Philippe launched the watch that would become its signature, the legendary Calatrava - informed by Bauhaus simplicity, conceived of economic pragmatism, and boldly establishing the template for scores of men’s dress watches to follow. Today’s Calatrava collection is vast, comprising numerous high complications, but the basic time-only dress version remains the gateway drug for many a budding Patek enthusiast. In 2025, Patek Philippe unveiled the latest version, the salmon-dialed Ref. 6916, which represents the culmination of many decades’ worth of evolution on both the aesthetic and technical sides. Here is the story behind the Calatrava, and why it has become an undisputed icon of understated luxury. Reference 96 (1932) In the throes of the Great Depression, a new era was dawning for one of the great horological houses of Switzerland. Like much of the rest of the watch industry, Patek Philippe, which traced its prestigious history all the way back to 1839, had fallen on hard times by 1932. That was the year that brothers Jean and Charles Stern, founders of Fabrique de Cadrans Stern Frères, a successful Swiss dial-making factory and a longtime supplier for Patek Philippe, acquired the latter company and swiftly began the work of updating its product portfolio. In a modern age increasingly dominated by the wristwatches that had surged in popularity since the end of World War I, Patek’s output still largely consisted of ornate, highl...

Spinnaker And Scottish Watches Team Up For The Nessie Pearl Diver Fratello
Sep 26, 2025

Spinnaker And Scottish Watches Team Up For The Nessie Pearl Diver

There is something about a watch tied to a good story. Whether it is a mythical creature, a historical figure, or a place that sparks the imagination, the right narrative can elevate a watch beyond being just another diver in the lineup. Spinnaker has leaned into this idea more than once, but its latest release […] Visit Spinnaker And Scottish Watches Team Up For The Nessie Pearl Diver to read the full article.

Frederique Constant expands the Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture range with two new dials in steel, plus a luxurious gold halo model Time+Tide
Frederique Constant expands Sep 25, 2025

Frederique Constant expands the Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture range with two new dials in steel, plus a luxurious gold halo model

The most affordable perpetual calendar on the market gets silver and blue dials in steel plus a baller yellow gold, onyx-dialled model.The post Frederique Constant expands the Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture range with two new dials in steel, plus a luxurious gold halo model appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.