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EDITOR’S PICK: Do I really want to see Rolex make titanium watches? Time+Tide
Rolex make titanium watches? Editor’s Feb 13, 2022

EDITOR’S PICK: Do I really want to see Rolex make titanium watches?

Editor’s note: With Watches & Wonders on the horizon, the rumour mill is about to crank up again in earnest as predictions swirl as to what Rolex will release this year. That’s why we thought we’d revisit this story about a titanium Yachtmaster prototype that was recently spotted in the wild. Did that leak reveal a … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: Do I really want to see Rolex make titanium watches? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Can Writing Instruments Be As Collectible And Enthusiast-Infused As Watches? – Reprise Quill & Pad
Feb 13, 2022

Can Writing Instruments Be As Collectible And Enthusiast-Infused As Watches? – Reprise

Thrill of the chase. Intellectual satisfaction. Investment. There are nearly as many reasons for collecting things as there are things to collect. But when it comes to watches and writing instruments, a variety of shared motivations, perhaps catalyzed by the obvious common characteristics of the objects themselves, make them conspicuous crossovers for collectors.

Soldera Wines: Sensational Italian Tuscan With A Hollywood-Worthy Backstory – Reprise Quill & Pad
Feb 12, 2022

Soldera Wines: Sensational Italian Tuscan With A Hollywood-Worthy Backstory – Reprise

The rise of Brunello has been recent. And, arguably, the single most convincingly 100 percent Brunello example of fine wine is Soldera at Case Basse according to Ken Gargett and other wine experts. But Soldera and the region have a dramatic background, one that might not be common knowledge outside Tuscany. Read on for a Hollywood script-worthy story and mouthwatering descriptions of Tuscan wines you may not (yet) be acquainted with.

UPDATE: New United States Presidential Watches Found And Added To Comprehensive Guide Hodinkee
Feb 11, 2022

UPDATE: New United States Presidential Watches Found And Added To Comprehensive Guide

Last President's Day, we released one of our most ambitious watch research projects to date: an attempt to catalog all known watches of U.S. Presidents. We knew that more watches would continue to come out of the woodwork, so we have collected a number of new watch discoveries here and have added them to the full guide. As always, please let us know if you happen to become aware of any U.S. President's watch we don't have listed.

Zenith x Revolution & The Rake strike back with an “Airweight” titanium take on the wildly popular “Cover Girl” Time+Tide
Zenith x Revolution & Feb 10, 2022

Zenith x Revolution & The Rake strike back with an “Airweight” titanium take on the wildly popular “Cover Girl”

Zenith has been on a real hot-streak as of late, coming in strong for LVMH Watch Week with some very intriguing pieces such as the Defy Revival A3642, Defy Skyline collection, and Defy 21 Chroma among others. Whether heritage revivals, or next-generation collections, Zenith with each design continues to attract today’s buyers with their creations. While … ContinuedThe post Zenith x Revolution & The Rake strike back with an “Airweight” titanium take on the wildly popular “Cover Girl” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Baume & Mercier Finally Debuts an Interesting Watch SJX Watches
Baume & Mercier Feb 10, 2022

Baume & Mercier Finally Debuts an Interesting Watch

After several years of drift – and a low-priced, Kickstarter-type watch – Baume & Mercier has finally returned with something surprisingly interesting. Based on the brand’s trademark oblong watch, the Hampton “Hommage à Pierre Soulages” is based on reproduces a work by the titular French artist on its dial in textured, three-dimensional relief. With the dial pattern apparent only up close and the case entirely in matte black, the aesthetic is strikingly low key. Like Mr Soulages’ best known works, the dial relies on texture, direction, and the absence of colour, although concessions are made for branding and time telling. Initial thoughts Though some of its ladies’ watches do well in certain markets, Baume & Mercier (B&M;) has had a difficult recent history. While cycling through several chief executives, the brand also launched a great variety of products over the period, but none of them really caught on. But now it has created something unexpected. The concept is straightforward – a dial that recreates a work of art – but it still manages to be original and unusual. Despite its simplicity, the watch manages to capture the artist’s spirit on a tiny canvas. The monochrome finish and emphasis on texture is exactly what Mr Soulages himself is famous for. The retail price of a bit under US$6,000 is pretty steep for a time-only watch powered by a stock ETA 2892, but several factors count in its favour. One is the intrinsic appeal of the watch, and another...

CHEAP BASTARD: The Leff Amsterdam Tube Watch Time+Tide
Feb 10, 2022

CHEAP BASTARD: The Leff Amsterdam Tube Watch

Okay, you got us, this piece is a smidge over the $500 AUD benchmark that we hold so dear at this penny-pinching, open-your-wallet-and-moth-flies-out column. But the ROI is worth it. There are a number of colourways in Leff’s Tube Collection but for out-and-out handsomeness, we’re drawn to the steel and pearl combination. The first thing you’ll … ContinuedThe post CHEAP BASTARD: The Leff Amsterdam Tube Watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Cartier And HBO’s ‘And Just Like That,’ The ‘Sex And The City’ Sequel (Attention: Spoilers Ahead) Quill & Pad
Cartier Feb 9, 2022

Cartier And HBO’s ‘And Just Like That,’ The ‘Sex And The City’ Sequel (Attention: Spoilers Ahead)

One streaming series Elizabeth Doerr was really looking forward to was 'And Just Like That,' the much-anticipated sequel to 'Sex and the City.' She has always loved the taboo-laden adventures of the quartet of New York City fashionista heroines of this story and their diverse love lives – escapism at its best with lots of funky fashion to ogle and girl talk to laugh along with. It was the perfect show for Cartier to fill with product placement, too, even if reviews haven't been the greatest. Here's why.

WATCH ANALYTICS WEDNESDAYS: Omega Speedmaster limited editions values are soaring to the moon Time+Tide
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Feb 9, 2022

WATCH ANALYTICS WEDNESDAYS: Omega Speedmaster limited editions values are soaring to the moon

Editor’s Note: We recently partnered with @watchanalytics to crunch the numbers and dig into the horological market trends and value fluctuations for the references that matter. Last time, we delved into a Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph that is trading for nearly twice its retail value. Today we are going to dive into the secondary market performance … ContinuedThe post WATCH ANALYTICS WEDNESDAYS: Omega Speedmaster limited editions values are soaring to the moon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Havid Nagan Debuts with the Clean and Geometric HN00 SJX Watches
Havid Nagan Feb 9, 2022

Havid Nagan Debuts with the Clean and Geometric HN00

After two years of development, Havid Nagan has finally made its debut with the HN00 Titanium. An unusually well-honed design for the inaugural watch of a brand that originated on Kickstarter, the HN00 combines an original case with an attractive guilloche dial, as well as a respectable micro-rotor movement. The genesis of Havid Nagan lay in its founder Aren Bazerkanian’s goal of producing a relatively accessible watch that incorporates elements typically found in pricier timepieces. So Mr Bazerkanian launched a modest Kickstarter campaign in 2019 to fund the prototyping process. Initial thoughts The HN00 is notable for managing a fairly original design that contains thoughtful details. Most impressive is the barleycorn guilloche dial covered in glossy, lacquer that mimics enamel. While the pattern is common, the HN00 dial is especially fine, especially around the centre of the dial where the grain converges and diminishes in size. Importantly, the dial has done away with superfluous elements such as a date or seconds hand, which presents the guilloche in all its glory. Even with the proliferation of the cushion-shaped case, the squarish case of the HN00 stands on its own. It avoids calling to mind watches from the likes of Panerai or Patek Philippe. The dimensions of the case are restrained, though it does feel a bit on the thick because neither the bezel nor the case back are sloped, while the case middle is tall, resulting in substantial verticality. At US$8...

The Leica ZM 1 and ZM 2 Have Finally Arrived SJX Watches
Feb 8, 2022

The Leica ZM 1 and ZM 2 Have Finally Arrived

Originally announced in 2018, the Leica L1 and L2 (now renamed ZM 1 and ZM 2) wristwatches have finally made it to market. Developed with the help of a German watchmaker but very much a proprietary product, the ZM 1 and ZM 2 are both powered by variants of the same cleverly constructed calibre that is an impressive debut for the camera maker’s horological venture. Initial thoughts The Leica watch has a restrained, Germanic aesthetic with interesting details, but more importantly an interesting, thoughtful movement. Developed from the ground up for Leica, the calibre features useful complications like a power reserve and hacking, zero-reset seconds, but executed in an unusual yet practical manner. At the same time, the patented pull crown is novel without sacrificing functionality. The design of the movement is also appealing, with its partially open-worked bridges cleverly exposing the key components of the going train and complications The watch is big, but not excessively large. Considering the size of the calibre, the case dimensions are acceptable. That said, this is the limit, any larger and the case would be enormous. It helps that the styling is attractively low key. The dial and case appear simple at a distance, but reveal their details up close. The hands and hour markers, for instance, echo each other, while the crowns are finely knurled. Leica also avoided a common pitfall of watches inspired by other technically-oriented industries, no doubt thanks to Achim H...

What’s Love Got To Do With It? Everything, Says Breguet With These 5 Stunning Watches Quill & Pad
Breguet Feb 7, 2022

What’s Love Got To Do With It? Everything, Says Breguet With These 5 Stunning Watches

Women have played a significant role in Breguet’s history, acting as inspiration or catalyst for some of the company’s most memorable timepieces – a phenomenon that continues today. So in 2018, when Breguet launched a timepiece in honor of St. Valentine’s Day, it was the start of an annual ode to love that has become as highly anticipated for watch lovers as the holiday itself. Here are all five of these limited edition timepieces.

In-Depth: Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie Pocket Watch No. 1 SJX Watches
Feb 7, 2022

In-Depth: Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie Pocket Watch No. 1

A quartet representing the entirety of Philippe Dufour’s repertoire went under the hammer last year, with the Grande Sonnerie wristwatch no. 1 setting the record for any Dufour sold publicly when it achieved the equivalent of US$5.2 million including fees. Sold at the same auction, but for substantially less, was the Grande Sonnerie pocket watch no. 1. Despite the relative values, the pocket watch is arguably a more significant timepiece within Mr Dufour’s work. Why? Initial thoughts In today’s wristwatch-centric era, the fact that it is a pocket watch counts against it. That was also the verdict of the market – the pocket watch sold for half as much as the wristwatch in November 2021. But the Grande Sonnerie pocket watch is the ultimate distillation of Philippe Dufour’s philosophy, the ideal synthesis of the inspiration and impetus behind his creations. He has long stated, both publicly and to me in past conversations, that his watches are a reverential homage to the haute horlogerie produced in the Vallée de Joux during its heyday before the Quartz Crisis, the period between the late 19th to the mid 20th centuries. Timepieces of that era, especially those with ebauches made by the valley’s best specialists like Louis-Elisee Piguet and Ami LeCoutre, are the best watches ever made in Switzerland in his view. And the Grande Sonnerie pocket watch can pass for a timepiece from the late 19th century, perhaps even one made by Mr Dufour’s favourite historical w...

Calling Up and Coming Watchmakers – The F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition Open Feb 7, 2022

Calling Up and Coming Watchmakers – The F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition

Open to watchmakers aged between 18 and 30 from anywhere in the world, the F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition (YTC) is an annual affair that seeks to identify the most promising watchmakers of the future. Interestingly, any candidate who has “must have independently designed and created a timepiece and/or technical construction” can participate, whether or not he or she has formal training. A candidate can enter any type of timepiece – last year’s winner was 29-year old Mario Scarpatetti, whose entry was a longcase clock with a patented secular perpetual calendar mechanism of his own invention. The Kalendar Perpeten clock made by last year’s winner, Mario Scarpatetti Mr Scarpatetti won a CHF20,000 grant sponsored by Singapore retailer The Hour Glass, which is once again the prize for the YTC 2022. The winner will the selected by a jury of industry notables that include Francois-Paul Journe himself, Philippe Dufour, and Giulio Papi, who will make their choice according to four criteria: originality, technical complexity, aesthetics and finishing, as well as quality of make. Candidates can submit their entries on fpjourne.com.  

Recommended Reading: The In-Depth Guide to the F. P. Journe Octa Chronographe SJX Watches
F.P. Journe s most intriguing offerings Feb 5, 2022

Recommended Reading: The In-Depth Guide to the F. P. Journe Octa Chronographe

A short-lived model in production for just a few years – it was replaced by the Centigraphe in 2008 – the Octa Chronographe was nevertheless one of F.P. Journe’s most intriguing offerings in technical terms. While based on the standard cal. 1300 found in the simpler Octa models, the chronograph movement utilised a stopwatch mechanism integrated into the base plate under the dial. In other words, the chronograph was integrated but located where a modular setup would typically be. As a result the Chronographe remained the same height as less complex Octa models (though that thinness would cause a variety of problems with the functionality, especially with the date). Its technical details – which vary across generations – are just one aspect of the watch detailed in A Collector’s Guide for the Octa Chronographe by F. P. Journe by Shawn Mehta, founder of independent watchmaking merchant Watch4Moi. (At the same time it’s worth revisiting the guide to the F.P. Journe Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite that I wrote in 2016, making it one of the first-ever Journe “guides”.) Octa Chronographe no. 001 that sold at Phillips in November last year Though the first in numerical sequence, it was not actually the first example produced as indicated by its details Unlike many recent “guides” that rely on plagiarisation or secondary sources, Mr Mehta’s article cite facts and figures from F.P. Journe itself. For instance, he tells us that only 35 examples of the Octa Ch...

The Collector’s Crossroads: My watch resolutions for 2022 Time+Tide
Grand Seiko GMT side note Feb 4, 2022

The Collector’s Crossroads: My watch resolutions for 2022

Since I started collecting, every January 1st, after kissing my loved ones and drinking champagne, I give my watches a onceover. It’s something I didn’t realise I did until this year, when I almost dropped my Grand Seiko GMT (side note: a great way to sear an event into your mind). In that moment, I … ContinuedThe post The Collector’s Crossroads: My watch resolutions for 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.