Revolution
Eisenkiesel - Rolex’s Latest Rolling Stone
Ross Povey tells us about the latest stone dial to grace the linage of the fabled Rolex Day-Date, the Eisenkiesel dial on both the 36 and 40mm Day-Dates
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Revolution
Ross Povey tells us about the latest stone dial to grace the linage of the fabled Rolex Day-Date, the Eisenkiesel dial on both the 36 and 40mm Day-Dates
SJX Watches
In celebration of its 230th anniversary, Girard-Perregaux has extracted part of its museum collection and sent it across the world to Singapore, where they form an exhibition on the watchmaker’s history. Shaping The Know Since 1791 provides a peek into the company’s past milestones and timepieces, illustrated by a diversity of items on show, ranging from enamelled pocket watches from the late 18th century to an ultra-modern wristwatch with its case and bridges in sapphire crystal. Pocket watches Though the Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges is Girard-Perregaux’s best known complication, the brand is instead focusing on its wider repertoire in the exhibition. Arranged in a chronological manner, the company’s history is explained with a series of displays that include notes as well as representative watches of each era, from the 18th to 21st centuries. Notable contemporary pieces include the original Laureato from 1975, as well as the avant-garde Quasar Light that reinterprets the brand’s iconic triple bridges in sapphire crystal. The original Laureato that was quartz the exhibition unfolds the brand’s unusual origins: while husband-and-wife Constant Girard and Marie Perregaux founded the brand in 1856, the company later acquired Jean-François Bautte, a brand that was established in 1791, explaining the 230th anniversary in 2021. A pioneer in ultra-thin timepieces, Bautte specialised in pocket watches decorated with enamel and gemstones, reflecting the prevail...
Time+Tide
Like Romeo and Juliet, the Rolex Submariner and the Oysterflex bracelet were meant to be together. The iconic diver’s watch and (probably) the world’s best rubber strap are the beautiful couple never allowed to marry due to draconian family rules. So what are the DIY alternatives to speed up this matrimony? After all, despite what … ContinuedThe post Until we get more Oysterflex, these are our preferred Rolex rubber strap options on the market appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Rieslings are generally particularly refreshing and relatively low in alcohol. And they go superbly – generally better than white Burgundy and other Chardonnays – with food. Nowadays most Riesling is dry, not sweet. And German dry Riesling is one of the wine world’s undervalued treasures. Here Ken Gargett suggests three of his favorites.
We take Certina's value dive watch to the depths of a tropical sea ... in the middle of the Utah desert.
Hodinkee
Back in 1974, the late filmmaker Bertrand Tavernier made 'The Clockmaker of St. Paul,' a fascinating and oblique drama that probed the psyche of the horologist.
Revolution
Massena LAB announces three new color additions to the Uni-Racer to mark the summer of 2021, limited to just 35 watches in each color.
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Massena Lab is a design studio that got its start collaborating with independent watchmakers on limited edition timepieces. But the firm more recently unveiled watches under its own label, starting with last year’s Uni-Racer, a chronograph modelled on the mid-20th century Universal Genève “Big Eye” chronograph. Founded by William Rohr, best known for being the former manager of the Timezone.com watch forum, Massena Lab follows up with the Uni-Racer Holiday Collection, a trio of chronographs time clad in funky colours with a retro bent that bring to mind watches of the 1970s. Initial thoughts Vintage remakes have been trendy for several years now, and the sheer number of them mean they are often hit-or-miss. It’s rare for a remake to get the details right – especially since the case and movement are modern – something that takes a keen eye to decide what to copy and what to tweak. Mr Rohr’s creations often get the details right – the two-tone sector dial jumping seconds and gilt dial chronograph are cases in point – reflecting his decades of watch collecting. And importantly they are fairly priced. But the Uni-Racer Chronograph stands out from Massena Lab’s portfolio to date. Not only was it the first watch to bear the Massena Lab brand, but it was a near-exact copy of the vintage original – which split opinions and elicited lots of vocal critiques on social media. Uni-Racer “Rally” Still, for anyone who appreciates old-school design, ...
Revolution
Wei Koh speaks to Robert-Jan Broer, founder of Fratello Watches on their latest collaboration with Czapek that sold out in 39 min upon release.
SJX Watches
While Chanel started the year with the J12 in rainbow colours inspired by electronic dance music, its latest is sleek and stark in black and white. The Monsieur Marble Edition is a variation of the Monsieur Edition Noire from 2019, retaining the same steel and ceramic case – and the in-house Caliber 1 movement – but matched with a dial in glossy black marble with white veining. Initial thoughts I liked the original Monsieur de Chanel when it was launched in 2016. Even though Chanel is a primarily fashion house, the Monsieur was proof it made excellent watches for men. Its design was thoughtful, and the movement attractively executed in both style and construction. The subsequent Monsieur in black ceramic had all the same qualities, but an monochromatic look that made it more appealing. And the new version is even more appealing, because the marble dial looks good. Even though the only change is the marble dial, its natural grain goes well with the design of the Monsieur, so the whole is greater than the sum of the parts. Price wise, however, the new Monsieur is harder to digest. At just under US$37,000, it costs almost US$10,000 more than the original version in ceramic, which was a reasonable-enough proposition considering the design and movement. The Marble Edition is unquestionably beautiful – I’d want one – but the price is steep. Black and white Each dial is made of one piece of marble carefully cut into three to form each section of the dial, allowing the ...
Time+Tide
When assessing any dive watch, comparisons to the iconic Rolex Submariner are inevitably going to pop up. But the other day in the Time+Tide office, Andrew happened to be wearing his brand new Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze while Matt’s trusty Rolex Submariner 114060 was dangling from his wrist. So they decided to put their … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Rolex Submariner vs the Tudor Black Bay Fifty Eight Bronze appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Ken Gargett has been reliably informed that there are tequilas now considered quality spirits, designated for sipping – he admits that he swallowed this obvious falsehood on an occasion many years ago, but in the interests of research once again he sallied forth. Sharing the results of his investigations here, he dips into two high-end tequilas: Fortaleza and Calle 23. Olé!
Time+Tide
Matt. I hear you. You made your case. But I would never, ever, remove the bracelet from my Rolex Submariner ref. 114060 – or any Rolex for that matter. I cry blasphemy here not because a rubber strap looks particularly bad on the watch, in fact I concede it looks fine and is probably very … ContinuedThe post Sorry Matt, but I would never put my Rolex Submariner on a rubber strap appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Watches we love, the second time around.
Deployant
We continue with Kunal Khemka telling us stories from his home in India with a presentation of the Bangalore Watch Company Cover Drive The Outfield.
SJX Watches
Panerai’s latest is unusual relative to its recent launches that are clearly contemporary designs – the Radiomir Eilean PAM 1243 is a traditionally-styled special edition that commemorates the eponymous sailboat built in 1936, the year the brand started supplying the Italian military with its waterproof wristwatches. Panerai acquired Eilean in 2006, after its former chief executive Angelo Bonati – a keen sailor with a fondness for old school sailboats – spotted the derelict yacht in Antigua. Three years of restoration made it seaworthy again, and now the boat occasionally sails as a roving ambassador for the watchmaker. While its outline and layout are familiar, the Radiomir Eilean incorporates details not commonly found on Panerai watches, such as the pinstriped dial inspired by the teak deck of Eilean. And the case has a special, “aged” finish first seen on the Radiomir 8 Days PAM 992 of 2019 that’s simultaneously shiny and matte, giving it a lived-in feel but not quite vintage. Engraving is done on the case side, leaving the dial clean Initial thoughts The Radiomir Eilean has most of the features that make for an appealing Panerai wristwatch, including a good-looking palette and discreet, interesting details across the dial and case – except for the oversized Eilean emblem on the case side. The mix of new and old in the design will not be for everyone, but I like it. Particularly attractive are the vintage-y colours, which have all been used before, b...
Straight out of The Jetsons.
Time+Tide
Over a quarter of a million people agreed with meme accounts like the one below when they declared that Bezos’ NATO over outer suit style was “the most f*cked up thing” he has ever done. The truth, however, may be even sadder (or cuter, depending on your viewpoint) than just an unfortunate styling faux pas. … ContinuedThe post People are losing their minds about the way Bezos wore his Speedy in ‘space’, but the truth may be even sadder appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Gorilla introduces a new chronograph to their collection -the Fastback Thunderbolt Chronograph. Limited edition of 99 pcs. Details with commentary.
SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie. is quietly marking the 15th anniversary of its flagship complication with the Heritage Perpetual Calendar Midnight Blue Enamel. It was, in fact, this very simple and smart perpetual calendar that helped put the brand on the map when it was revived in 2005 (while the original brand was established in 1828). Like the commemorative edition made for its 10th anniversary – which was essentially a fancy pocket watch with a strap – the new perpetual calendar is a departure from the brand’s typical design and instead relies on more classical flourishes, most notably an enamelled dial and case band. But true to the brand’s inclinations, the design remains relatively clean, largely to the concise calendar display. A subtle perpetual calendar Initial thoughts Moser’s perpetual calendar has long been applauded – for good reason. For one, the display is an elegant alternative to the typical, in-your-face layout made up of multiple sub-dials. Despite being less, the Moser perpetual manages to do more, being eminently legible. And the calendar is also convenient in a tactile sense – it can be set forwards as well as backwards. But being introduced 15 years ago, the complication is now familiar, familiar enough that it might be forgotten. The presentation then becomes important. And here the new edition is successful. Being part of the Heritage collection, the new model is quite different the brand’s usual offerings, like the Pioneer and Endeavour. In...
Quill & Pad
You are heading to a special event for the evening. You’re feeling elegant, you’re a fan of decorative arts, and you also have a real penchant for classic mechanics with a twist. What do you wear on your wrist? Elizabeth Doerr can’t think of many watches better than A. Lange & Söhne’s new Cabaret Tourbillon Handwerkskunst.
Hodinkee
Booms, busts, and the birth of the nostalgia industry.
Quill & Pad
Ken Gargett reminisces and rambles about visiting the Saar region of Germany and tasting some of the world's best Tieslings. And then there was that Vegemite incident at the Madrid airport.
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Gunshots ring out with an unnerving cadence, and the chants of angry crowds ring across the city. It is Sunday, February 11, 1979. Come Monday morning, the country’s biggest newspaper hits newsstands with the front page proclaiming: “The Regime Has Disintegrated”. The provisional government collapsed the day before, with the military having returned to its barracks – leaving the Islamic Revolution triumphant. All day long that Monday, a young man ignores the revolutionary chaos as best he can, dedicating himself to picking up the phone every hour and dialling his father’s office at air force headquarters within Doshan Tappeh Air Base in Tehran. Each time his father answers and calmly reassures the son all is well. For a few months now, the son has tried to talk his father into leaving the country. The Shah had already fled and tensions were rising. But each time his old man responded in the same manner, “I am a soldier of this land and my duty calls me to stay.” Not only did the father remain in the country, he dutifully turned up to work every day. Nader Jahanbani (right) with Mohammad Reza Pahlavi, the last Shah of Iran, in the early 1970s; Nader has his GMT-Master on his wrist On that fateful Monday, the son calls at six in the evening and hears his father’s voice. He calls again at seven and his father picks up the phone. An hour later, he dials the number once again and listens to the phone ringing. No one answers. He tries again a few minutes later ...
Time+Tide
EDITOR’S NOTE: Don’t get hoodwinked by the marketing spin of the vintage watch world. That’s the advice of Dan Kaufman, a veteran Australian journalist who got in touch with this thought-provoking column. If you’ve got a watch-related subject you’d like to get off your chest, drop us a line at: info@timeandtimewatches.com. Let’s start by stating … ContinuedThe post OPINION: Let’s face it, patina is just a fancy word for damage appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The first weekend of November 2016 was a big one for GaryG: in addition to attending the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, he collected not one, not two, but three spectacular watches. The watch he left home certain to bring back was one that he had been waiting patiently for since January 2016: the split-seconds chronograph Reference 5370P from Patek Philippe. Here Gary explains why he bought it.
SJX Watches
David Candaux established his eponymous brand with the 1740 Half Hunter, a watch with several exotic features that made it decidedly unconventional, especially for a watchmaker located in the traditional heart of Swiss watchmaking, the village of Le Solliat in the Vallee de Joux. Now Mr Candaux is following up with something more concise, the DC7 Genesis. The DC7 still preserves many of the novel elements of the original model – like the inclined-balance tourbillon – but presents them in a streamlined manner. Initial thoughts For someone who appreciated the technical merits of David Candaux’s first wristwatch, but found it too fancy, the DC7 is ideal. The DC7 remains unusual in both design and construction, but inches closer to the conventional end of the scale. The cleaner and simpler design make the DC7 easier to digest. Though streamlined, the DC7 still retains the watchmaker’s signature features, including the vertically-symmetrical case, telescopic crown, and inclined-balance tourbillon. More broadly, the watch is composed of inclined surfaces – the dial and movement bridges are both inclined, making it instantly recognisable as a David Candaux creation. At the same time, the movement is finished differently from the original model, and slightly less intricate, but still appears to be done to a similarly high standard. Importantly, the simpler mechanics make it more affordable. At about US$150,000 in titanium, the DC7 is not quite a value buy, but it’...
Time+Tide
Offset one-ups Cardi B, gifting daughter Kulture a 250K+ Richard Mille for her 3rd birthday during a pink princess party over the weekend.The post Offset one-ups Cardi B, gifting daughter a 250K+ Richard Mille for her 3rd birthday appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Founded just five years ago, Gorilla has already established a distinct house style, born of the its two founders’ eye for design. Notably, one of the founders, Octavio Garcia, was design chief at Audemars Piguet for over a decade. The latest from the brand is reassuringly familiar, channeling the style of its inaugural model, but a major step up in terms of form, function, and price – the Fastback Thunderbolt Chronograph. Equipped with a smartly skeletonised dial, it’s the brand’s first chronograph but retains with Gorilla’s recognisable case style. The case is multi-material: a ceramic bezel, followed by an anodised aluminium ring, and then a black-coated titanium case middle and back Initial thoughts Gorilla’s past offerings have been appealing for several reasons. Though evocative of some other well-known designs, its watches are original and handsome – a rare sight at the US$800 price range – and they are usually executed in unusual combinations of materials like titanium and ceramic. At the same time, the brand managed to make uncommon complication relatively affordable, namely the wandering hours display that’s most famously associated with Urwerk and Audemars Piguet in modern watchmaking. The latest offering is an extension of the brand’s strengths. Despite being its first chronograph, the Fastback Thunderbolt Chronograph is well put together, having a skeletonised front that’s intricate in detail and rich in colour that manages to pres...
Revolution
Tissot introduces a high-performance dive watch aimed to meet the needs of the professional saturation diver with an impressive array of technical features.
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