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Results for Equation of Time

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OPINION: These are the watch terms that drive me nuts… Time+Tide
Jan 18, 2022

OPINION: These are the watch terms that drive me nuts…

I’ve never understood the term “tool watch”. After all, you don’t hear people talking about tool cars or tool computers – because “tool” is redundant. Anything used to do something is a tool, and last I checked, even a dress watch tells the time. If you want to refer to a dive watch, then call it … ContinuedThe post OPINION: These are the watch terms that drive me nuts… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Chanel Introduces the Boy.Friend Skeleton Red Edition SJX Watches
Cartier Tank – they are Jan 18, 2022

Chanel Introduces the Boy.Friend Skeleton Red Edition

While Chanel watches were all about the Electro “Rainbow” last year, its 2022 high horology timepieces form the Red Edition Collection. Including in the line up are the Boy.Friend Skeleton Red Editions, both ladies watches powered by the same notably interesting in-house movement, the hand-wind Caliber 3. Initial thoughts Chanel puts out fine mechanical movements – the Caliber 1 of the Monsieur exemplifies that – but typically with the bold, varied, and tasteful style that only a fashion house can achieve. The new pair of Boy.Friend Skeleton watches are exactly that. The clean, distinctive shape is inspired by a perfume bottle, but it has a strong form that is appealing. More appealing is the Caliber 3 inside, an in-house movement with a strong geometric aesthetic that suits the case perfectly. It is clear the movement’s developers wanted it to look good, and they succeeded. The Caliber 3 inside the Boy.Friend Skeleton X-Ray Red Edition with a clear sapphire case Though both watches are certainly large enough to be men’s watches – the case dimensions are similar to a men’s Cartier Tank – they are unquestionably ladies’ watches (and Chanel markets them as such). Given the compelling movement, the Boy.Friend Skeleton one of the most interesting time-only watches for ladies on the market. The Boy.Friend Skeleton Red Edition in Beige Gold set with rubies Bottle shaped The rectangular case of the Boy.Friend is modelled on the bottle cap of Chanel’s No. 9...

The 2022 Australian Open Begins . . . Without World Number One (And Hublot Ambassador) Novak Djokovic Quill & Pad
Hublot Ambassador Novak Djokovic Elizabeth Jan 17, 2022

The 2022 Australian Open Begins . . . Without World Number One (And Hublot Ambassador) Novak Djokovic

Elizabeth Doerr's entire world seems to have been following the Australian Open 2022 tennis saga over the last couple of weeks – even people who generally do not follow tennis. So as the first Grand Slam of the tennis calendar 2022 gets underway, she briefly examines Novak Djokovic and his pretty scandalous behavior as he relates to our watch world.

INTRODUCING: The Zenith Defy Revival A3642 resurrects an octagonal design unlike any other Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jan 17, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Zenith Defy Revival A3642 resurrects an octagonal design unlike any other

Who did it first? That is always a prominent question in watch design. When people begin to discuss the Zenith Defy, many people categorise it as an intriguing alternative to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. The Royal Oak is credited as the reference that birthed the luxury sports category, which made its debut in 1972. … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Zenith Defy Revival A3642 resurrects an octagonal design unlike any other appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Grand Seiko Introduces the Spring Drive SLGA009 “White Birch” SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Jan 17, 2022

Grand Seiko Introduces the Spring Drive SLGA009 “White Birch”

Though it was two years ago as the Grand Seiko’s flagship Spring Drive movement, the 9RA5 still feels new, simply because the latest-generation movement hasn’t found its way into many watches, save for a pair of limited editions. Now it finally makes it into a regular-production model, the Grand Seiko Spring Drive SLGA009 “White Birch”. The latest Spring Drive, like the mechanical SLGH005, is inspired by the tree of the same name that’s native to the area around Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi. Initial thoughts The SLGH009 “White Birch” clearly becomes the Grand Seiko’s showcase Spring Drive – it resembles the previous generation’s bestseller, the famous “Snowflake”, but is substantially upgraded in terms of features and finish. The combination of familiar styling and improved quality makes it attractive. Part of the appeal lies in the 9RA5 movement, which on the surface seems like a mere upgrade over the predecessor 9R65. But it is more than just the power reserve being increased to five days, and the new calibre boasts an entirely new architecture, including both a new gear train and integrated circuit for the Spring Drive regulator, as well as a better finishing. The other aspect of its appeal lies in the design, which has dubbed “Evolution 9”. As always is the case with Grand Seiko, Evolution 9 is inspired by vintage Grand Seiko models, but brings with it a sense of solidity and refinement, thanks to the flatter case, heftier bracelet, a...

Louis Vuitton Introduces the Tambour Horizon Light Up Smartwatch SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Introduces Jan 15, 2022

Louis Vuitton Introduces the Tambour Horizon Light Up Smartwatch

Now in its fifth year of smartwatches, Louis Vuitton has just unveiled the latest generation of its “connected” watch, the Tambour Horizon Light Up. Still easily recognisable as a Louis Vuitton watch, and looking more like a watch than a device – that is the point of it – the Light Up is a thoughtful evolution of the concept, bringing with it a rounded, edge-to-edge screen and redesigned case. The result is a surprisingly attractive watch, albeit one that is amongst the priciest smartwatches on the market. The Light Up gets its name from the “rainbow” bezel powered by two dozen LEDs Initial thoughts Smartwatches with screens generally fall into two categories. One comes from the likes of Apple and Samsung, gadgets for the wrist that are evidently electronic devices. And the other are those from traditional watchmakers, ranging from TAG Heuer to Montblanc, which are typically resemble large wrist instruments for sports. With its simple case and discreet buttons, the Light Up clearly just wants to be a watch – and it succeeds. It is a (very) luxe smartwatch, so it’s not for everyone, but there’s no denying that the Light Up is appealing as a watch with intelligent features. With its Ressence-like case and whimsical features, the watch avoids the oversized wrist gadget look, and perfectly encapsulates the brand’s design prowess and house style. Left to right: the steel case in a polished finish, matte black PVD, and matte brown PVD And the Light Up is, ...

“Digital and luxury come together” – George Bamford reviews the new Louis Vuitton Tambour Horizon Light Up Digital Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton Tambour Horizon Light Up Jan 14, 2022

“Digital and luxury come together” – George Bamford reviews the new Louis Vuitton Tambour Horizon Light Up Digital

Editor’s note: You’re almost certainly familiar with George Bamford, but just in case you’ve been lagging behind here’s a quick background primer. George got involved in watches in the mid-noughties after customising his Rolex Submariner by taking it apart and treating it using a DLC process. The first time he wore it out he got 25 orders. … ContinuedThe post “Digital and luxury come together” – George Bamford reviews the new Louis Vuitton Tambour Horizon Light Up Digital appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Franck Muller Introduces the Vanguard Casablanca SJX Watches
Franck Muller Jan 14, 2022

Franck Muller Introduces the Vanguard Casablanca

Now in its third decade, Franck Muller is a success story of independent watchmaking, having gone from a small outfit centred on its eponymous founder to a brand with nine-figure annual revenue. Alongside its stable of inventive and highly complicated wristwatches, the brand is most famous for its tonneau-shaped watch case – the Cintrée Curvex – which was so successful in the 1990s that made tonneau cases a thing in contemporary watchmaking. The new Vanguard Casablanca is an evolution of that tonneau shape, while adopting the palette and styling of the Cintrée Curvex Casablanca that was a bestseller when it was launched in 1998. While the Vanguard was introduced in 2014, the Casablanca makes it debuts with a new 43 mm size that fills the gap between the 41 mm and 45 mm cases. Initial thoughts The original Casablanca took its name from the 1942 film starring Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman. Meant to evoke the era of steamship travel and exotic port cities, the Casablanca had oversized Arabic numerals and dials in retro colours like salmon and sand. That’s been translated into the Vanguard Casablanca, which blends the retro style of the original with a distinctly modern case in a sporty, masculine size. It’s a strong and appealing design that is arguably even more quintessentially Franck Muller than the earlier versions of the Vanguard. The Casablanca is available as a time-only and also a chronograph Because the look is very much typical of Franck Muller, thi...

Up Close: Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold SJX Watches
Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold Jan 13, 2022

Up Close: Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold

A surprise launch that was part of last year’s revamp of its retro diver, the Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold is marked the debut of a new gold alloy, joining the brand’s ever-growing stable of proprietary metals like as Moonshine and Sedna golds. The unusual nature of the gold alloy – with a good proportion of copper, it is only 9k in terms of purity – immediately makes the new Seamaster 300 interesting. It stands out amongst the sea of vintage-inspired dive watches thanks to the unique physical properties of the case metal, which will develop a patina, but in a slow, barely discernible manner. The alloy is 37.5% gold, which is 9k But because the Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold is still gold, even if it is low caratage, it is not especially affordable, being twice that of its steel counterpart. That said, from the perspective of conventional gold, it’s much more accessible compared to a typical dive watch with an 18k gold case. With that contradiction in mind, is the Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold a value proposition? Omega was kind enough to lend one for a week, so I endeavoured to find out. Initial thoughts First things first, the aesthetics. The watch is handsome in the metal, with an appealing style that is evidently vintage-inspired despite the thick case. And it definitely feels more luxurious than the steel versions, in part due to the case metal but also the seemingly finer details. Overall, the design feels complete and cohesive – the brown colourway is appea...

No Secret: The Journe Society Chronometer From F.P. Journe – Reprise Quill & Pad
F.P. Journe Reprise While these days Jan 12, 2022

No Secret: The Journe Society Chronometer From F.P. Journe – Reprise

While these days community building in the enthusiast realm seems increasingly the domain of brand-agnostic organizations, there remain old-school organizations whose members are devoted to the watches of a single maker. One such example is the Journe Society, a small, low-profile group of enthusiast collectors. GaryG sheds some light on the group and its specially commissioned group watch.

Mark Ronson is Audemars Piguet’s new ambassador, but his collection shows he’s a genuine watch guy Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet s new ambassador but Jan 12, 2022

Mark Ronson is Audemars Piguet’s new ambassador, but his collection shows he’s a genuine watch guy

Musician and producer Mark Ronson has just been revealed as Audemars Piguet’s new ambassador. The good news? This isn’t your standard take the-money-and-run celebrity endorsement. The DJ, songwriter and record producer is a genuine watch guy as this peek into his collection reveals.  Better still, ahead of this announcement, Ronson’s go-to wristwear offered stone-cold proof … ContinuedThe post Mark Ronson is Audemars Piguet’s new ambassador, but his collection shows he’s a genuine watch guy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Inside Burgundy’s History, Including A ‘Royal War’ With Champagne Quill & Pad
Jan 11, 2022

Inside Burgundy’s History, Including A ‘Royal War’ With Champagne

When Ken Gargett first got interested in wine, he was warned about Burgundy. It was made abundantly clear that he (by which he means a bunch of friends with far more experience in wine than he had) drank Bordeaux. But times change and the greatest wines he has tasted have been Burgundies. Here he relates the region's fascinating history, including a historical war of words with Champagne.

In-Depth: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph ‘Collection Excellence Platine’ SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronogr... Jan 11, 2022

In-Depth: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph ‘Collection Excellence Platine’

When Vacheron Constantin celebrated its 260th anniversary in 2015 with the Harmony collection of cushion-shaped watches, the standout was easily the split-seconds chronograph. Seemingly ordinary on its face, the Harmony split-seconds was powered by the cal. 3500, an all-new rattrapante chronograph calibre with a novel automatic winding mechanism. The movement was gorgeous, but disappeared from the catalogue – until last year. The cal. 3500 made its comeback with the Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph Ultra-Thin Collection Excellence Platine. Like the other Collection Excellence Platine (CEP) watches, the Traditionnelle split-seconds is a limited edition – only 15 pieces in fact – that utilises platinum generously throughout the watch, but it is unique as there is no standard production equivalent in the catalogue. In short, it is a special watch. The cal. 3500 with its intricate chronograph mechanism and novel peripheral rotor Initial thoughts On its face, the Traditionnelle split-seconds is an elegant watch with a restrained, almost simple style. Its proportions are wide and slim, creating a graceful profile. The thinness exaggerates the case diameter slightly, so it does seem a bit wider than it is, especially with the longish lugs. In typical CEP style, the dial is nearly monochromatic, rendered in grey and silver, with the only colour coming from the indicator hands for the chronograph and power reserve. It’s a simple combination, but a good one. The pla...