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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

RECOMMENDED READING: How watches became financial assets Time+Tide
Dec 15, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: How watches became financial assets

The topic of watches and their worth has been the talk of 2019. With never-ending threads of comments on social media, expressing frustration at the current prices of some pieces, retailers attempting to negotiate the challenge of managing wait-lists, and the growth of The Flipper in the world of watch buyers, it seems that 2019 … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: How watches became financial assets appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breitling Avenger Blackbird Review WatchAdvice
Breitling Avenger Blackbird Review Despite Dec 11, 2019

Breitling Avenger Blackbird Review

Despite recent turbulent times (pun intended #avgeek), under the guidance of Georges Kern and team, Breitling has re-established itself with a robust and cohesive line up of watches.  Today, we take a closer look at a staple of the “air collection”, The Avenger, but more specifically, a newer addition, The Blackbird. Designed to be sleek and stealthy, this particular Breitling is a little different to the usual polished steel cases usually offered.  CASE:  Titanium has certainly gained popularity in recent years. Breitling went one step further and went full stealth mode, coating the large 48mm case (before you stop reading, there’s a 44mm option also), with “a highly resistant black carbon-based treatment,” aka DLC coating from what I’ve researched.  While large in diameter, case thickness of 14.8mm and a lug width of 24mm (tapers to buckle), it’s surprisingly comfortable on wrist. The curved lugs combined with a canvas strap, allows the wearer to anchor down the watch, while the flat, untreated, screw-down caseback ensures a low profile is maintained.  The 60 minutes, unidirectional bezel is smooth in operation and clicks into position cleanly. On the media model shown, there was a small amount of back-play; however, I’m confident this would be corrected by the small retaining screws found around the bezel edging.  Inside, keeping time is the Breitling B17 movement (a base ETA 2892-A2) that is CSOSC certified, with 42hrs of flight time. The knurled,...

We take a look at 5 seriously cool vintage TAG Heuer Autavias Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Autavias One Dec 11, 2019

We take a look at 5 seriously cool vintage TAG Heuer Autavias

One of the best things about TAG Heuer is the Swiss marque’s remarkable history with motorsport - few other watchmakers, if any, have such a rich back catalogue of timekeeping devices purpose-built for the ultimate expression of man vs machine. And while many will immediately associate the angular Monaco as the most iconic wristwatch associated with … ContinuedThe post We take a look at 5 seriously cool vintage TAG Heuer Autavias appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: 5 reasons Chopard are horological heavy hitters Time+Tide
Chopard are horological heavy hitters Dec 9, 2019

VIDEO: 5 reasons Chopard are horological heavy hitters

It’s been a big year for Chopard, thanks in part to the release of the Alpine Eagle, the first ever steel watch from the brand, and one of the most discussed watches of the year. As this new sports watch got the world talking about Chopard, we thought it was the perfect time to take … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: 5 reasons Chopard are horological heavy hitters appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: TAG Heuer Monaco Calibre Heuer 02 Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Monaco Calibre Heuer 02 Dec 9, 2019

HANDS-ON: TAG Heuer Monaco Calibre Heuer 02

Of the hundreds of thousands of wristwatches that have been created over the last century, how many are truly iconic? The answer: honestly, not many … not many at all. Candidly, there are probably fewer than 50 timepieces of the last 100 years that can claim to have had an impact on the zeitgeist of … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: TAG Heuer Monaco Calibre Heuer 02 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Frosted gold is very, very underrated Time+Tide
Dec 7, 2019

Frosted gold is very, very underrated

Editor’s note: There are lots of ways that watchmakers like to decorate their micromechanical marvels, such as engraving, polishing, brushing or even Côtes de Genève inside the case. While all of these techniques are wonderfully effective when done well, one of the most visually impressive (and generally underrated) techniques to finish a watch is hammering … ContinuedThe post Frosted gold is very, very underrated appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

This Panerai Submersible BMG-Tech is a killer summer watch Time+Tide
Panerai Submersible BMG-Tech Dec 7, 2019

This Panerai Submersible BMG-Tech is a killer summer watch

Editor’s note: A summer watch can be many different things, however, there is one prerequisite – it needs to be water resistant. I’m not talking about a mere 3-ATM either … a timepiece to wear December through February has got to be able to hang poolside or 100 metres below the deep blue. Panerai’s Submersible … ContinuedThe post This Panerai Submersible BMG-Tech is a killer summer watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Van Cleef & Arpels’ Iconic Pont Des Amoureux Timepiece Makes A Comeback Paying Tribute To Tales Of Love Quill & Pad
Casio n Dec 6, 2019

Van Cleef & Arpels’ Iconic Pont Des Amoureux Timepiece Makes A Comeback Paying Tribute To Tales Of Love

It was a cold, wet, and windy autumn day when Van Cleef & Arpels invited Y-Jean Mun-Delsalle and a few colleagues on a boat ride along the Seine river through central Paris. The occasion (and the boat ride) was just the start as the launch of the new and improved Lady Arpels Pont des Amoureux, which has now been expanded into an entire collection gathered under the umbrella of "Love Stories," was the main attraction.

Hands-On: Longines Heritage Classic “Sector” Dial SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Dec 5, 2019

Hands-On: Longines Heritage Classic “Sector” Dial

Longines ended the year with two spot-on vintage remakes, the just-launched Heritage Military 1938 and the earlier Heritage Classic “sector” dial that’s just arrived in stores. The Heritage Classic is based on a 1934 Longines wristwatch with dial style known as “sector” or “scientific”. Fashionable today because of its distinctive yet retro look, the sector dial was fairly common in the early 20th century, being found on both pocket- and wristwatches made by a variety of brands, ranging from Patek Philippe to Zenith. So Longines doesn’t have any special claim to the design, but with a retail of just over US$2000, its sector-dial remake is arguably the bang for the buck. At 38.5mm in diameter the Heritage Classic is compact and wears well. It’s slightly larger than the vintage originals – typically 35mm or so, while rarely and expensively 37mm or larger – but not by much. Because the case diameter has been kept smallish by modern standards, the sub-seconds at six is correctly positioned, unlike on most remakes that match large cases with small movements. While the seconds sits closer to the centre of the dial than on the vintage original, the dial still looks correctly laid out with good balance. The remake (left), and the original from 1934 that’s in the Longines museum. Image – Longines Besides the diameter, the case profile is also well done. At 10mm, the height is proportional to the diameter, with a fairly high, single-step bezel and a slim c...

3 Longines for under $5K on their online store that represent value propositions Time+Tide
Longines Dec 4, 2019

3 Longines for under $5K on their online store that represent value propositions

One of the greatest things about Longines is their history - the Swiss marque was established almost two centuries ago, way back in 1832. This heritage gives the brand an advantage, and it gives the Longines wearer an edge, too. The depth and versatility of Longines timepieces is utterly expansive – and the back catalogue is a … ContinuedThe post 3 Longines for under $5K on their online store that represent value propositions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Bell & Ross BR 01 Laughing Skull White SJX Watches
Bell & Ross BR 01 Laughing Skull Dec 2, 2019

Hands-On: Bell & Ross BR 01 Laughing Skull White

While skull watches are very much today’s fad, Bell & Ross’ use of the Jolly Roger started a decade ago with the BR 01 Skull, with its square watch case being a perfect frame for a bony visage. The brand’s skull watches have proliferated since then, but the evolution had been purely cosmetic, until last year when the brand unveiled a watch as elaborate mechanically as it is aesthetically – the BR 01 Laughing Skull, powered by a proprietary movement with a simple automaton of a skull that opens and closes it jaw. And this year, B&R; has introduced the BR 01 Laughing Skull White, with the skull finished in a bone-like lacquer. Distinctive face Like all BR-01 watches, the case is 46mm wide, but it is a tad thicker than the static skull watches at 13.5mm high, but that’s a functional requirement, a result of the automaton on the movement. In short, it is a large watch, but that’s exactly the point. The case is sandblasted steel and is decorated with stamped hobnails on the top surface and case back, giving it a pronounced, distinctive character. And it is worth noting the unusual finish of the skull would work quite well with a case in bronze, a material that B&R; has used liberally in the past and will probably continue to. The dial features a photo-realistic appliqué skull that’s been stamped out of brass, and then painted matte off-white with shading to create shadow and depth. The result is striking – at a distance, the skull is seemingly projecting out o...

Hands-On: Vacheron Constantin Overseas “Everest” Dual-Time Prototype in Titanium SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Overseas “Everest” Dual-Time Prot... Dec 2, 2019

Hands-On: Vacheron Constantin Overseas “Everest” Dual-Time Prototype in Titanium

In early June 2019, American mountaineer Cory Richards embarked on his third attempt at scaling Mount Everest – after successfully reaching the summit twice before, including once without oxygen – but had to give up halfway due to dangerous weather. In fact, the year’s climbing season was one of the deadliest in recent years, with 11 climbers dead or missing. Prior to his valiant but unsuccessful attempt at Everest, Mr Richards worked with Vacheron Constantin to develop a watch for the occasion. He wanted something light, robust and able to track two time zones. Mr Richards at Everest base camp wearing the Overseas Dual Time prototype. Photo – Vacheron Constantin/Keith Ladzinski The beefed-up Overseas The result was the one-off Overseas Dual-Time prototype that looks a great deal more aggressive than the average Overseas. In fact, the designers at Vacheron Constantin managed to boost its presence and sportiness without bulking it up too much; the diameter remains the same. Mr Richards wore the watch up Everest, and now Vacheron Constantin has donated it to charity. Exactly as it was when Mr Richards left Mount Everest, with scratches on the case and fraying on the strap, the prototype will be sold at Phillips’ upcoming New York watch auction, with all proceeds going to the National Geographic Society. Though identical in size to the standard Overseas Dual Time – the case is 41mm in diameter – this prototype has a bulked-up case, primarily with the addition...

Which Rado Captain Cook Automatic is right for you? Time+Tide
Rado Captain Cook Automatic Nov 28, 2019

Which Rado Captain Cook Automatic is right for you?

Rado’s Captain Cook Automatic dive watch collection is downright impressive for anyone in the market for a fit-for-purpose dive watch on a budget. What’s more, it’s got a great amount of heritage - Rado has actually used the Captain Cook moniker since 1962. But these modern iterations aren’t resting on the laurels of their forefathers, they’re … ContinuedThe post Which Rado Captain Cook Automatic is right for you? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Jaeger-LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon 3 Meteorite SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon 3 Meteorite Nov 27, 2019

Up Close: Jaeger-LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon 3 Meteorite

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon 3 Meteorite is a highly technical yet decorative grand complication panelled in meteorite and aventurine. But it also evokes watchmaking of the early 2000s in its mechanical grandeur. Exotic tourbillons started to proliferate at the turn of the millennium, and soon the offerings were numerous, ranging from orbital to inclined to multi-axis. Today such tourbillons are commonplace, but in the early 2000s they were radical and cutting edge. While the orbital tourbillon was nothing more than a visual spectacle, the inclined and multi-axis tourbillons were attempts to adapt Breguet’s invention for the wrist, in other words they made chronometric sense, at least on paper. One of the earliest and most significant multi-axis tourbillons was the Jaeger-LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon of 2005. While it wasn’t the first multi-axis tourbillon in a wristwatch – that honour goes to Thomas Prescher – the Gyrotourbillon was distinguished by its elaborate, three-dimensional cage of lightweight aluminium, made possible only with the aid of modern technology. The original Gyrotourbillon of 2005, which also incorporated a perpetual calendar with equation of time With the leap year and power reserve displays on the back The Gyrotourbillon was arguably the complication that defined Jaeger-LeCoultre as an haute horlogerie brand rather than a movement maker for other marques. Since its launch the Gyrotourbillon evolved into several iterations, including thi...

A week with IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire (Reference IW326802) WatchAdvice
IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire Nov 26, 2019

A week with IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire (Reference IW326802)

Released earlier this year at SIHH 2019, IWC’s latest collection of Spitfire pilots watches all feature for the first – time in-house manufactured calibres. With seven new references ranging from simple time-only functions, all the way to perpetual calendars, 2019 marked a significant year for the brand. Today, we’re taking a look at the IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire, in bronze. Just a glance at the IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire, and there’s no mistaking this bronze watches heritage, which draws inspiration from the original IWC Mark 11- a definitive Pilot’s watch, with legitimate military provenance. First Impressions If you’re on the hunt for a unique take on the iconic Pilot’s watch and want an in-house movement with impressive power-reserve, look no further. The IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire is a robust and well-proportioned take on the quintessential military classic. The Case The sandblasted bronze case serves up an interesting texture, and attractive take on bronze. The case is warm with a golden sheen, especially under sunlight, where it becomes quick playful with the light. As you might expect, the bronze case is designed to patina over time, and develop a distinctive look reflecting the owner’s wear pattern. The press piece provided was well worn, having already developed its own unique patina. And being bronze, after just a few weeks of wear, you’ll begin to notice the uniqueness and individuality present itself. The ...

WATCHSPOTTING: At Dubai Watch Week 2019 Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Dubai also showed Nov 26, 2019

WATCHSPOTTING: At Dubai Watch Week 2019

In a city as affluent as Dubai, it isn’t a surprise to see some pretty wild watches come out to play at the city’s own Dubai Watch Week. While there are some of the usual suspects to be seen, such as Rolex and Patek Philippe, Dubai also showed its sophisticated side with some less common … ContinuedThe post WATCHSPOTTING: At Dubai Watch Week 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Chopard’s svelte Alpine Eagle 41mm with Bernina Grey dial Time+Tide
Chopard s svelte Alpine Eagle Nov 25, 2019

HANDS-ON: Chopard’s svelte Alpine Eagle 41mm with Bernina Grey dial

This has unquestionably been the year of the contentious steel sports watch, with just about every watchmaker and their Bernese entering the fray in what has to be the most hotly contested genre of timepieces in the current watch market. Chief among these new steely provocateurs is Chopard’s Alpine Eagle. We’ve been fortunate enough to … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Chopard’s svelte Alpine Eagle 41mm with Bernina Grey dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Dubai Watch Week WSTD – Julian’s DOXA SUB 300 Professional Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Nov 24, 2019

Dubai Watch Week WSTD – Julian’s DOXA SUB 300 Professional

While wandering the booths of Dubai Watch Week, any enthusiastic eye can spot Rolex, Patek Philippe and the rest of the usual suspects on the wrists of other attendees, but it was a surprise to see a flash of orange pass by one afternoon. Sure enough, after stopping and speaking with Julian briefly, I confirmed … ContinuedThe post Dubai Watch Week WSTD – Julian’s DOXA SUB 300 Professional appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Real watch lovers of Sydney turn out for second launch of DOXA in Australia Time+Tide
Doxa Nov 24, 2019

Real watch lovers of Sydney turn out for second launch of DOXA in Australia

If I could offer one piece of advice for anyone who is ever asked to speak at a watch event, it is this: know your stuff. At the second launch of Doxa watches in Australia in a week, this time in Sydney at the home of Oscar Hunt tailors in York Street, I spoke about … ContinuedThe post Real watch lovers of Sydney turn out for second launch of DOXA in Australia appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Hublot’s Prancing Pony Time+Tide
Hublot s Prancing Pony Nov 23, 2019

VIDEO: Hublot’s Prancing Pony

At Baselworld 2019, Hublot released a new chronograph in partnership with Ferrari that looked almost un-Hublot. We had become so used to recognising the hard angles and faceted cases of the brand founded by Carlo Crocco that the flowing curves of the newest Classic Fusion were staggeringly svelte in comparison, and suddenly appealing to an entire … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Hublot’s Prancing Pony appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

DOXA launches in Australia, and our guests drank like sailors at a street party to celebrate Time+Tide
Doxa launches Nov 21, 2019

DOXA launches in Australia, and our guests drank like sailors at a street party to celebrate

On Monday night, Melbourne opened its arms – and uncorked many, many bottles of Four Pillars Gin, the best gin in the world – in celebration of the fact that, finally, dive watch kings Doxa have a home in this country. Fittingly for a brand that is dive watch royalty, the crowd of 120+ drank … ContinuedThe post DOXA launches in Australia, and our guests drank like sailors at a street party to celebrate appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hublot has its sights firmly set on your feet Time+Tide
Hublot has Nov 20, 2019

Hublot has its sights firmly set on your feet

Horological disruptors Hublot are hosting an exhibition right now at the Museum of Contemporary Design and Applied Arts (MUDAC) in Lausanne, Switzerland … but it’s not for watches. No, the Swiss watchmaker is hosting what is said to be one of the best sneaker exhibitions ever assembled. And while this may sound slightly off-brand for … ContinuedThe post Hublot has its sights firmly set on your feet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

3 Hublot Spirit of Big Bangs for 3 different occasions Time+Tide
Hublot Spirit Nov 20, 2019

3 Hublot Spirit of Big Bangs for 3 different occasions

Hublot’s Spirit of Big Bang collection is unquestionably one of the most varied and nuanced in the Swiss watchmaker’s catalogue. The quintessentially tonneau-shaped timepiece, which has only been around since 2014, has spawned quite a few different iterations, in a number of different sizes and materials, since its inception. In fact, as of right now, … ContinuedThe post 3 Hublot Spirit of Big Bangs for 3 different occasions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED WATCHING: Jean-Claude Biver’s unbelievable watch collection Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Nov 19, 2019

RECOMMENDED WATCHING: Jean-Claude Biver’s unbelievable watch collection

There’s a pretty strong case to be made that Mr Jean-Claude Biver is one of, if not the most influential individual in the horological industry of the last half-a-century. Here is a man who cut his teeth at Audemars Piguet and witnessed first-hand the development of the now legendary Royal Oak. A man who would … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED WATCHING: Jean-Claude Biver’s unbelievable watch collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

5 fresh summer flavours for a DOXA summer Time+Tide
Doxa summer Summer Nov 18, 2019

5 fresh summer flavours for a DOXA summer

Summer is now thankfully just around the corner, which means we can ditch the black on black garb and finally bring some colour back into our lives and, more importantly, onto our wrists. And luckily, we’re now stocking DOXA’s entire collection of colourful timepieces, including the SUB 200, SUB 300T and SUB 1500T. These watches … ContinuedThe post 5 fresh summer flavours for a DOXA summer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.