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Results for Neo-Vintage

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Longines Ultra-Chron Carbon High-Frequency Diver Review Teddy Baldassarre
Longines Dec 17, 2024

Longines Ultra-Chron Carbon High-Frequency Diver Review

Just over two years ago, Longines launched the Ultra-Chron, a revival of the super-accurate 1968 original that gained notoriety as the world’s first high-frequency diver. Now Longines has released the Ultra-Chron Carbon, which is the brand’s first watch with a case made from carbon fiber, which, of course, is known for its lightweight durability. The watch, in fact, comes in at just 80 grams for the case and strap. The original Ultra-Chron Diver Ref. 7970 from 1968 was a cushion-cased steel watch that measured 41mm wide with 200 meters of water resistance. It was outfitted with the 5Hz Caliber 431 movement, which was accurate to 2 seconds per day. Our resident expert Mark Bernardo went into all the details of this model as well as the brand’s history with high-frequency timekeeping, in an article you can read here.  The 2022 revival was a little bigger, coming in at 43mm wide, but also beefed up the water resistance to 300 meters. This new Ultra-Chron Carbon shares the same basic specs as this revival model but the blacked-out design kind of makes all the difference in terms of style versatility. Rather than a red minutes hand and matching red accents on the bezel, we see a sleek, monochrome aesthetic that is more stealth than sporty. The use of a contemporary material like carbon also offsets some of that overt “vintage-inspired” design language in favor of its own identity. The cushion-shaped case measures 43mm wide and 14mm thick with a 48mm lug-to-lug measu...

Owner’s Review: the Seiko Prospex Land GMT SPB411 Worn & Wound
Seiko Prospex Land GMT SPB411 Dec 6, 2024

Owner’s Review: the Seiko Prospex Land GMT SPB411

Seiko is no stranger to releasing watches that immediately capture the attention of enthusiasts. Still, sometimes, due to the frequent release schedule, a release slips through the cracks. The Seiko Prospex Land GMT SPB411 is one such piece. While it might not have accumulated the same level of buzz as some of Seiko’s other releases in the last year or so, this reissue of the iconic 1968 Navigator Timer is a near 1:1 homage to the past, but with enough modern upgrades to make it highly relevant today. I’ll admit that when it came out, I thought it wasn’t bad but I easily overlooked it for some reason or another. Then, I happened to be visiting a local watch boutique, and they took me to the back to show me a few fun things they had sitting in the safe. Low and behold, the SPB411. As soon as I picked it up, I knew it was special. For the price point (we’ll get to that shortly), I thought it was really well done and impressed me more than most Seiko’s I’ve come in contact with. It was also just really good-looking. I love a vintage-inspired design when it’s done really well and since this is a near one-to-one re-issue, Seiko nailed it.  The original Seiko Navigator Timer was a milestone in the brand’s history, being their first GMT with a rotating bezel. It’s a model that remains beloved for its classic sport design and useful complication. The SPB411, though a modern update, channels the same spirit of the 1968 model, with some refined tweaks that appeal ...

Hands-On: the Jacques Bianchi JB300 Worn & Wound
Nov 26, 2024

Hands-On: the Jacques Bianchi JB300

Last week, Jacques Bianchi released what is probably their most boring watch in recent memory, and the results speak for themselves. Compared to many of the brand’s recent releases, the new Jacques Bianchi JB300 is inarguably their most conventional, forfeiting many of the details that helped set the many iterations of the JB200 apart. But in that simplicity there’s magic, and this latest entry in the Jacques Bianchi catalog is a strong new addition to the military-inspired dive watch category, offering collectors a rock-solid option at a fantastic value. Put simply, the JB300 is a classic military diver in the truest sense, while still managing to hold onto a little bit of the dramatic flair we’ve come to expect from a brand that typically decorates their dials with divers and cephalopods. The JB300 draws the bulk of its inspiration from the original JB300, an early ‘90s dive watch issued by the French Army to combat divers. While not an exact 1-to-1 reproduction of that watch, which seems to have been produced in extremely limited quantities (less than 1000 by most counts), the new JB300 is a very close facsimile. Jacques Bianchi has done a good job updating the original JB300 for a modern audience though, toying with the specifics of both dial and case to bring them more comfortably into the 21st century. Part of this was likely dictated by necessity. A cursory search will find that most vintage examples of the JB300 feature the symbol for l’Armée de Terre (t...

Jaeger-LeCoultre Unveils a Stunning Full Pink Gold Reverso Tribute Chronograph Worn & Wound
Jaeger-LeCoultre Unveils Nov 22, 2024

Jaeger-LeCoultre Unveils a Stunning Full Pink Gold Reverso Tribute Chronograph

Compared to its yellow and white cousins, rose gold has a way of being both polarizing and under-the-radar simultaneously. Love it or hate it, you can’t really deny the strangle-hold that this colorway had on millennial Instagram feeds circa-2015. Thankfully, it’s gotten a bit more grown-up in recent years, most notably in the latest iteration of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph. Now, you may be thinking: Brett, you idiot. We already know there’s a pink gold Reverso Tribute Chronograph. And you’d be correct. But now, the Swiss watchmakers have taken it one step further with a full pink gold reference. Instead of just the case being in 18k (750/1000) pink gold, the dial, movement bridges, applied indexes, and pin buckle will also have a rosy hue to it. This color especially complements the Art Deco aesthetics of the watch, giving it just the slightest upgrade to the model without veering too far into modernity. Having been around since 1931, it’s one of those classic designs that needs very little improvement (and even less of an introduction). First designed for polo players, as the flip-action of the case added a little bit of protection for the crystal during a match, it has since become one of the most iconic silhouettes in horology. It has all the charm of, say, a Tank, but the bit of movement gives it just something more, I find. And that something more is best attributed to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s continued minor upgrades that still keep the le...

Serica’s Parade is the Brand’s Most Ambitious Watch to Date Worn & Wound
Serica s Parade Nov 21, 2024

Serica’s Parade is the Brand’s Most Ambitious Watch to Date

Nearly a year ago I sat in on a conference call with some colleagues and members of the Serica team, who outlined their upcoming slate of 2024 releases. They were particularly excited about a new watch they weren’t yet ready to show us that would debut toward the end of the year, a watch they claimed was a significant departure for them in terms of style, shape, and what enthusiasts have come to expect from Serica over the last five years. While not an anniversary piece, per se, they framed this release as one that celebrates the brand and their unique perspective on the watch world, and now, finally, having seen the new Reference 1174 Parade, their excitement makes a lot of sense. This is an ambitious release, and should go a long way in expanding what the community might expect from Serica going forward.  Serica has built their brand on designing purpose built but elegant tool watches in the style of classics from the midcentury period made by Rolex and countless other historic brands. Their watches tend to have a very clear vintage influence without being too on the nose – they never mimic or borrow completely from any specific classic watch. The same holds true for their first watch in a more formal vernacular. The Parade jumps in the shaped case arms race with a dramatic oval, stepped case in what the brand calls a “Stadium” footprint: straight sides, but with soft, curved corners that suggest both roundness and length simultaneously.  The watch might immedi...

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Greater China SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Nov 14, 2024

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Greater China

Audemars Piguet (AP) debuts an entirely new look for its thinnest-ever perpetual with the  Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Greater China. Crafted entirely in yellow gold in a first for the model, the limited edition even sports a gilded dial with matching yellow gold moon disc. Initial thoughts The Royal Oak is inarguably the face of AP. And amongst Royal Oak models, the ultra-thin perpetual calendar stands out for its technical sophistication. Derived from the Royal Oak RD#2 concept watch, the Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin has a cleverly engineered movement that spreads out the calendar mechanism to minimise its height. That results in a slim case that enhances the proportions of the Royal Oak design. The signature starry moon phase features yellow gold-toned moons The Greater China edition is a major departure from the grey and blue tones of the prior two versions. It’s loud and definitely not for everyone, but it does look good. At the same time, it also references vintage Royal Oak perpetual calendar models that featured similar all-gold livery. Though the price is only on request, the Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin mode in general is pricey, arguably more expensive than it should be in fact, but it looks and feels great on the wrist. Yellow moons Crafted from 18k yellow gold, the ultra-thin yellow gold case is 41 mm in diameter and 6.2 mm in thickness. Water resistant to only 20 m due to its thinness, the case is finished in traditional Royal Oak style, wit...

Vacheron Constantin Introduces Certified Pre-Owned SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Certified Pre-Owned Vacheron Nov 11, 2024

Vacheron Constantin Introduces Certified Pre-Owned

Vacheron Constantin (VC) has just announced its Certified Pre-Owned (CPO) programme. Focused on recent VC timepieces, the CPO offerings will all be certified and serviced by the brand, and accompanied by a two-year warranty. The CPO programme will also allow clients to trade-in their VC timepieces for a new model. The CPO programme is making its debut with Watchfinder, the pre-owned watch merchant owned by VC’s parent company, the Swiss luxury group Richemont. In time to come, it will progressively be rolled out at VC boutiques, third-party retailers, and even auction houses. Each CPO watch will be accompanied by a two-year international warranty, a “Digital Passport”, and an VC guarantee letter. Watches sold through the CPO programme will be delivered in a VC pouch with a VC seal tag. Strictly speaking, CPO programme isn’t the first time VC is offering pre-owned watches. For several years, select boutiques have carried watches from Les Collectionneurs, vintage VC watches restored and certified by the manufacture. Practically all of the Les Collectionneurs watches are over 40 years old. On the other hand, the CPO programme is distinct as it covers more recent timepieces, including current models.  

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Bel Canto Classic Nov 10, 2024

A Week in Watches Ep. 93: Tudor Answers our Prayers and the Bel Canto Plays On

We return to the newness on episode 93 of A Week in Watches. There have been a lot of very interesting releases in the last few weeks, ranging from new versions of popular watches to new complications from unexpected sources. The episode begins by looking at the Christopher Ward Bel Canto Classic, a neo-traditional take on the brand’s runaway hit. Following this, we leave Earth to discuss the Omega x Swatch MoonSwatch Mission to Earth Phase. Yes, it’s another MoonSwatch, but this one does something no other watch has done before. Afterward, we discuss the new Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT. The first Pelagos GMT from the ever-popular brand, it brings the FXD back to its military roots. Finally, we talk about some new Seiko Prospex divers that, to be frank, have us altogether confused. This week’s episode is brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop, where the all new the Timex X Worn & Wound WW75 V3 is now available. Limited to 500 per color and priced at $239, these fun, colorful watches were inspired by the end of summer and a desire to keep it going. Pick one up today at Windup Watch Shop. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 93: Tudor Answers our Prayers and the Bel Canto Plays On appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Introducing: The Nomos Tangente And Orion Neomatik Doré - Bauhaus With A Touch Of Gold Fratello
Nomos Tangente Oct 26, 2024

Introducing: The Nomos Tangente And Orion Neomatik Doré - Bauhaus With A Touch Of Gold

We know Nomos best for its minimalistic, Bauhaus-inspired stainless steel watches. However, the brand has quite a few references with gold accents and even offers watches with full-gold cases. Now we can add two more references to this list because the brand from Glashütte has released the Tangente and Orion Neomatik Doré. Both watches feature […] Visit Introducing: The Nomos Tangente And Orion Neomatik Doré - Bauhaus With A Touch Of Gold to read the full article.

Review: Patek Philippe Cubitus Ref. 5821 and Ref. 5822P SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Cubitus Ref 5821 Oct 17, 2024

Review: Patek Philippe Cubitus Ref. 5821 and Ref. 5822P

Patek Philippe has finally debuted the long-awaited Cubitus, a collection of “elegant sporty” watches. The Cubitus is an oversized square watch with an unexpectedly elegant profile – and some echoes of the Nautilus. While that might seem like an odd recipe, the Cubitus is a successful new creation. The collection is led by the flagship Cubitus ref. 5822P Instantaneous Grand Date (pictured above) in platinum powered by an all-new calibre. The Cubitus ref. 5822P in profile The bestseller, however, will be the entry-level model, the Cubitus ref. 5821/1A, a time-and-date in steel with an olive-green dial. The Cubitus ref. 5821/1AR is also a three-hander with date, but in two-tone steel and 18k rose gold with a blue dial. The Cubitus ref. 5821/1A Initial thoughts The most discussed new launch of the year, the Cubitus is many things – “elegant sporty”, a relative of the Nautilus, and controversial – but it also surprises on the upside. I like the Cubitus, especially the base model in steel. The large square bezel complements the “ears” on either side of the case, and the bracelet integrates unexpectedly well into the design. The Cubitus has obviously inherited genes from the Nautilus – Thierry Stern himself acknowledges that – but the result is more natural than the angular bezel suggests. And Cubitus doesn’t merely transplant cosmetics, but also employs the unique one-piece case construction of the Nautilus. Importantly, the Cubitus has good ergonomics....

H. Moser & Cie. Debuts Entry-Level Chronograph with Massena Lab SJX Watches
Massena Lab Continuing Oct 17, 2024

H. Moser & Cie. Debuts Entry-Level Chronograph with Massena Lab

Continuing with affordable complications, H. Moser & Cie.’s latest is the Endeavour Chronograph Compax, a collaboration with Massena Lab. The most affordable Moser chronograph, the new Endeavour is powered by an in-house calibre with an added chronograph module. Loosely based on Moser’s 1940s pocket watch chronographs, the Endeavour Chronograph has a “Compax” layout with twin registers, luminous Arabic numerals, and a historical Moser logo. Though the retro design is atypical for Moser, the dial and case are still in classic Moser style, with the dial sporting a “funky blue” gradient finish. Initial thoughts Vintage reissues are common but Moser does them sparingly, mostly sticking with its signature minimalist, contemporary designs. The Endeavour Chronograph is the brand’s first vintage-inspired release outside of its Heritage collection. The Endeavour Chronograph is executed well, and affordable for a Moser chronograph. It costs less than half the Streamliner chronograph that’s equipped with the innovative Agenhor calibre. Because of the entry-level pricing, h0wever, the Endeavour Chronograph is constrained in certain ways, most notably in terms of the movement. Though the base calibre is Moser’s in-house automatic, the chronograph comes via a Dubois-Depraz module. It’s still a competent technical solution, but not as sophisticated as an integrated chronograph (and an in-house integrated construction would not be CHF25,000). Vintage styling The Endeav...

Business News: Gregory Kissling Appointed CEO of Breguet SJX Watches
Breguet Breguet has Oct 6, 2024

Business News: Gregory Kissling Appointed CEO of Breguet

Breguet has a new boss, Gregory Kissling, who started as chief executive at the beginning of October. Born in Neuchâtel – just like Abraham-Louis Breguet himself – Mr Kissling takes over one of the most storied brands in watchmaking. Although Breguet has ceded ground to its haute horlogerie competitors in recent years, the brand remains exceptional in terms of history and significance. Mr Kissling will no doubt seek to restore some of the brand’s glory. Appealing products will be key to that, and Mr Kissling has a strong track record. A micro-mechanical engineer by training, Mr Kissling began his career as a movement constructor at Cartier. He soon joined Omega as product manager in 2004, where he steadily rose through the ranks in product development. Two years ago Mr Kissling was named vice president of product at Omega, making him one of the most senior leaders of the company. Gregory Kissling outside the Breguet manufacture in Le Chenit Mr Kissling’s time in product development has seen Omega unveil watches that were well received by enthusiasts, particularly vintage-inspired Speedmaster models. Amongst the projects he was responsible for was the Speedmaster Moonwatch 321. He also worked on wider projects that spanned Swatch Group, including the development of proprietary precious metal alloys like Sedna and Moonshine gold. As the chief executive of Breguet, Mr Kissling reports to president Marc Hayek, who oversees the high-end brands owned by Swatch Group, na...

Omega Introduces the Second First Omega in Space Worn & Wound
Omega Introduces Oct 3, 2024

Omega Introduces the Second First Omega in Space

Any day that a new Speedmaster is introduced made out of a material other than Bioceramic is a good day. That’s one of the indisputable laws of watch media, and we’re seeing it play out right before our eyes with the release of the new First Omega in Space Speedmaster. This is, of course, the second First Omega in Space, following the discontinued first First Omega in Space, a tribute to the…first Omega in space, which happened to be a reference CK2998 Speedy on the wrist of astronaut Wally Schirra. That original FOiS release was a fan favorite Speedmaster for the entirety of its production run, which ended about four years ago.  The Speedmaster has developed a reputation with watch collectors as a classic that hasn’t changed a whole lot over the course of several decades of small iterations. While that’s certainly true when you look at the slow progression of the Speedy over the course of many years, the power of the FOiS was always in how it showed the clear contrasts between very early Speedmasters and the most modern examples in the catalog. Because of course there are changes from the Speedys of the 60s compared to those of today, and they really come through when you can view them side by side. The FOiS, as a vintage reissue, really made the most of this, offering a very clear alternative to collectors who might have a preference for vintage aesthetics but not want to actually own a vintage example of the watch.  The new First Omega in Space is very much ...

Hands On: Hautlence Retrovision ’47 SJX Watches
Hautlence Retrovision ’47 Best known Oct 3, 2024

Hands On: Hautlence Retrovision ’47

Best known for its TV-shaped watch, Hautlence marks its 20th anniversary this year with something radically different, but also entirely apt: the Retrovision ’47. Cleverly inspired by a 1940s radio, the watch has a titanium case painted in a bright green that contains a self-winding movement with a flying tourbillon. Though it’s powered by an existing movement (borrowed from Moser), the Retrovision ’47 is the brand’s first all-new model in a long time. Whether it marks a new direction for the brand is unknown, but it definitely makes a statement. Initial thoughts The Retrovision ’47 is a weird and interesting watch that is a surprisingly creative take on the vintage-inspired timepiece. Even though it is outlandish, the Retrovision ’47 is coherent. The watch achieves what it sets out to do: instantly evokes a vintage radio. It’s paradoxical in several ways: not exceptionally large, but it stands out because of its shape and colour. And at a distance, the Retrovision ’47 resembles a plastic toy, but up close the fit and finish make it clear that this is a high-end watch. I doubt I would wear one, but Hautlence should be commended for doing something bold and different. Beyond the watch itself, however, Hautlence still needs work. Weird and wonderful as it is, the Retrovision ’47 doesn’t explain where Hautlence is going, or even what the brand is really all about now. Even though the watch has a quirky, intrinsic appeal, the brand behind it still needs cla...

A Collector’s Perspective: The Cartier Crash SJX Watches
Cartier Crash Sep 27, 2024

A Collector’s Perspective: The Cartier Crash

A fever dream - form that bent and curved the very idea of what a wristwatch could be. The Cartier Crash, born out of myth and mystery, is no conventional timepiece. As established notions of purpose and design in watchmaking, the Crash exists at the intersection of watchmaking and sculpture. To the uninitiated, the Crash may seem bizarre, wildly eccentric for the sake of it, but to those steeped in horology, it is an icon. For me, Crash was more than just an addition to my collection; it was the culmination of years of passion, patience, and persistence. The author and his special order Crash A product of Swinging Sixties London There are watches that tell time, and then there are watches that tell stories. The Crash belongs to the latter category. Beyond its appearance, the allure of the Crash also stems from its founding myths. Introduced in 1967 by Cartier London – the jeweller was then three separate companies in Paris, New York, and the British capital – the Crash is easily the most avant-garde watch design ever produced by Cartier. Its warped, melted form defies the conventional standards that most watches adhere to, making it as much an artistic statement as a timekeeper. An example of a vintage London Crash To truly appreciate the significance of the Cartier Crash, one must delve into its history, which is almost as enigmatic as the watch itself. One popular origin story is macabre: a Cartier client wearing a Baignoire Allongée was in a car crash that damag...

Hamilton Adds White Dial and Bracelet to Khaki Field Murph 38 mm SJX Watches
Longines Sep 26, 2024

Hamilton Adds White Dial and Bracelet to Khaki Field Murph 38 mm

Originally conceived as a prop for the sci-fi film Interstellar, the Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38 mm is now available with a white dial or a stainless steel bracelet. This expands the Khaki Field Murph line two beyond the 42 mm original and the first 38 mm model that was only available with a black dial on a strap. The scaled-down Murph retains the same design as the original, which played a key role in the film directed by Christopher Nolan, which starred Jessica Chastain as Murph, a scientist working to save the Earth. Initial thoughts The Murph was a hit when it went from screen to store in 2019. It had a clean, vintage-military aesthetic with cathedral hands and no date, along with an affordable price tag. Now the white dial arguably gives it a more dynamic look than before, with the white adding contrast and also setting it apart from the numerous other military-inspired watches. Though the design isn’t novel, the Murph 38 mm is appealing for being simple and affordable. Starting at US$895 on a strap, the Murph 38 mm sits in between comparable watches from its sister brands Tissot and Longines, and is also in between in terms of fit and finish. In other words, it is priced right. Vintage-inspired aesthetics Water-resistant to 100 m, the Murph’s stainless steel case is a compact 38 mm in diameter, though tall at 11.1 mm high. The case is mainly brushed, except for the mirror-polished bezel. The optional steel bracelet has a matching brushed finish. And like most m...

Hands-On: the Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium Worn & Wound
Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium Sep 19, 2024

Hands-On: the Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium

Longines, somehow, still feels slept on to me. In the hierarchy or Swatch Group brands, they sit in a place where they really should be insanely popular with enthusiasts and the mass market alike, but somehow they often feel like a brand struggling to break into the wider conversation. To be fair, I have no idea about the relative commercial success Longines has experienced over these last few years – it’s quite possible that everyone at Longines and Swatch are quite happy with their performance. Anecdotally, though, I just don’t see them on wrists very often, either at local neighborhood watch meetups, or in the wild. And that’s kind of a shame, because whenever I actually spend time with a Longines watch, I come away feeling impressed. I’ve long held that they do vintage reissues better than just about anyone. Whoever has the job of raiding the archives and picking watches to resurface from the brand’s long history has impeccable taste, and an innate understanding of the watches that hit the center of the Venn Diagram covering “aesthetically interesting” and “historically important.” They’ve done a great job of telling the brand’s story with a string of excellent heritage releases.  But Longines is too big, of course, to just release vintage inspired watches, so in a moment a few years back when it was clear that the heritage gravy train wasn’t going to run forever, they introduced the Spirit collection. An entirely new line, the Spirit watches...

TAG Heuer’s Latest Monaco in Racing Green SJX Watches
TAG Heuer s Latest Monaco Sep 19, 2024

TAG Heuer’s Latest Monaco in Racing Green

Having become something of a tradition, TAG Heuer debuts a new Monaco chronograph just in time for the Formula 1 Singapore Grand Prix. Following last year’s edition in shades of grey, the 2024 edition is the Monaco Chronograph Racing Green. Equipped with the Sellita-derived Calibre 11, the new Monaco features chronograph registers in a dark green synonymous with motorsport, set against a clean silver dial. Initial thoughts Arguably TAG Heuer’s iconic chronograph, especially after Steve McQueen wore one in Le Mans, the Monaco gets new livery that embodies its racing heritage. The tricolour dial in green, silver, and yellow is dressed in classic motorsports colours. The titanium case is also a nice touch, instead of conventional steel. However, this Monaco is powered by the Sellita-derived and modular Calibre 11, instead of the in-house Heuer 02 that was found in last year’s equivalent Formula 1 edition. The rationale for the Calibre 11 is a logical one: it allows for an unorthodox nine o’clock crown that replicates the layout of the vintage Monaco, whereas the in-house calibre necessitates a conventional three o’clock position. But the new Monaco still costs CHF9,100, which is less than the models with the Heuer 02 but not that much less. As a result, it’s not as good a value proposition as its counterparts with the in-house calibre, though it is an appealing execution in terms of colours and materials. An old-school design The familiar square Monaco case is in...

Grand Seiko Just Released a Collector’s Dream Watch! Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Just Released Sep 2, 2024

Grand Seiko Just Released a Collector’s Dream Watch!

At Watches & Wonders 2024, Grand Seiko announced the new 9SA4 caliber and the first two watches featuring it, the SLGW002 and SLGW003. As a refresher, the 9SA4 is a manual hi-beat (36,000 bph), 80-hour, time-only caliber featuring their in-house dual-impulse escapement, first seen in the 9SA5. With a power reserve on the back of the movement, beautiful bridge designs and finishing, and a unique “wagtail-bird-shaped” winding click, it set a new bar for Grand Seiko’s mechanical calibers. But, perhaps just as exciting as the movement itself was that the watches featuring it were sized at an idyllic 38.6mm diameter and 9.95mm thickness with a 20mm lug, addressing the naysayer’s concerns around Grand Seiko’s sizing. While a pair of fantastic releases, since introduction, we have been wondering where we will see this movement next. Well, we just got our answer, and I have to tell you, I’m equally surprised and delighted. They went vintage rather than with the new case and a different dial, which would have been most expected. Yes, they decided to bring back, as a limited edition, of course, a “recreation” of the 45GS from 1968. A little history, the 45GS came out a year after the 44GS and featured the same case design, but differed in that it featured the brand’s first hi-beat manual wound movement, the 4520. The SLGW005 – the return of the 45GS The 44/45GS case defines the Grand Seiko “Grammar of Design” as set out by Taro Tanaka, with flat, Zaratsu poli...

Breitling Debuts First In-House Perpetual Calendar Chronograph SJX Watches
Breitling Debuts First In-House Perpetual Aug 30, 2024

Breitling Debuts First In-House Perpetual Calendar Chronograph

Breitling marks its 140th anniversary with a new calibre, the B19. Based on its longstanding B01, the B19 adds a perpetual calendar on top to create the most complicated in-house calibre in the brand’s stable. The B19 is making its debut in three different models, all clad in 140th anniversary livery: the Premier B19 Datora 42, Navitimer B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual Calendar, and Super Chronomat B19 44 Perpetual Calendar. Initial thoughts One of the most sophisticated chronograph constructions in the mid range of the price spectrum, the B01 gains a worthy upgrade with the perpetual calendar. Granted the additional complication adds substantial height to the case – all of the three models are well over 15 mm high – but that’s acceptable for a self-winding chronograph with perpetual calendar. Interestingly, the B01 base movement of the B19 has been upgraded over the standard version with some improvements (no doubt courtesy of Kenissi, which bought the rights to the B01 construction), though it’s uncertain if these will make their way into the plain B01. Though all three are identical mechanically, they look and feel different. The Super Chronomat is super chunky and the largest of the three, while the Navitimer and Datora are slightly more compact and definitely more retro in terms of style. The old-school, four-register calendar layout arguably suits the vintage-inspired style better. All three retail for US$59,000, which is par for the course for this double com...

Hands-On: The Cincinnati Watch Co Desk Diver Worn & Wound
Aug 26, 2024

Hands-On: The Cincinnati Watch Co Desk Diver

“Sold Out,” the words marking what was previously an “add to cart” button, reminding me that I missed out on the original drop. Just a few months ago, a small unassuming brand just 4 hours south of me in Cincinnati, Ohio teased a few images of an eye-catching dive-style watch sporting the tongue-in-cheek dial text of “0 ft = 0m, No Submersion, Superlative Desk Diver, Unofficially Certified”. While it is true that a lot of brands release watches on the more playful side of things, it is rare that the actual watch appears well executed throughout but instead leans into the whimsical, forgetting about tradition and practicality. So as further details and images were revealed of the 75-piece limited edition, it began to paint a picture of a well-made everyday watch utilizing new old stock Swiss-made cases poking fun at the seriousness plaguing the watch community. I loaded up the website, then swung and missed. So, when I learned that a non limited Desk Diver was in production with an upcoming release, I jumped at the opportunity to get the model on my wrist and give it a proper go.  Being that the original was limited simply due to the number of cases found after 50 years of hiding, Cincinnati Watch Co. set out to recreate a faithful case design made to a modern specification. The vintage-inspired cushion case measures a stout 43.3 mm in diameter. Despite its large measurements on paper, the Desk Diver Professional makes use of its clever geometry to disappear on...

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Worn & Wound
Aug 19, 2024

Tool/Kit: Cycling in Style with Evan Perrone and the Forstner Pilot Ref. F-6B/346

Cycling and watches have more in common than just gears. These enthusiast hobbies also share a mindset and a style that seem to go hand in hand. In this edition of Tool/Kit, our pal Evan Perrone, a professional in the cycling industry, takes Forstner’s new Pilot Ref. F-6B/346 for a spin and talks to us about cycling and traveling on time and in style. Hey Evan! Thanks for being the subject of a Tool/Kit for us. Can you tell us and our audience a little bit about yourself? Where are you based? What do you do for a living? What are your hobbies? Hi I’m Evan Perrone, so glad to be chatting with you today. I’m a native Pittsburgher, born and raised, and that’s where I reside now. My current title is Senior Account Manager and Special Projects. I oversee account business in four states as well as sit on several category committees. These committees help shape future Cannondale’s bicycles and how they come to market. I’ve been with Cannonade for over 4 years now. I love it. I’ve been in the cycling industry in some semblance or another since 2003 and would consider myself an industry veteran. My hobbies do, of course, include cycling, but Worn & Wound has been instrumental in discovering my passion for and interest in watches. I also like anything with wheels, so that includes cars and motorcycles, including vintage varieties… I’m all about it. The post Tool/Kit: Cycling in Style with Evan Perrone and the Forstner Pilot Ref. F-6B/346 appeared first on Worn & Wo...

Up Close: Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Quantieme Lunaire SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Quantieme Lunaire Earlier Aug 19, 2024

Up Close: Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Quantieme Lunaire

Earlier this year Jaeger-LeCoultre unveiled the refreshed Duometre line, with the entry into the new collection being the Duometre Quantieme Lunaire, the only steel model in the line-up so far. The dual train movement is used to power two separate sets of indications, one is the time with hours, minutes, and seconds, and the other a combination of the date, moon phase, and lightning seconds. Made  up of several models sporting an all-new look, this year’s Duometre collection is the first substantial facelift of the model line since its launch in 2007. While the original models had an aesthetic that brought to mind A. Lange & Söhne, the redesigned Duometre models have a more vintage-ish look that incorporates elements that are popular today, including a domed crystal and decorative recesses on the lugs. In terms of mechanical function, however, the new Duometre models are fundamentally the same. The “duo” barrels of the Duometre Initial thoughts The new look is a good one. It’s attractive and still fairly original; although it is vintage inspired, the design avoids looking generic, thanks in part to the distinctive Duometre dial layout. The domed crystal and dial result in the new model looking slightly bigger than the original, but at the same time it feels thinner. The dial layout is essentially the same as on the earlier generation Quantieme Lunaire as the movement is essentially identical. The recognisable double barrels-and-trains construction is evident, wh...

Glashütte Original Adds Bright Colours to the Seventies Chronograph SJX Watches
Glashütte Original Adds Bright Colours Aug 19, 2024

Glashütte Original Adds Bright Colours to the Seventies Chronograph

Glashütte Original (GO) drops two new variations of the Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date, with dials in striking colours: “Swimming Pool” turquoise or “Watermelon” coral red. Featuring a cushion-shaped case modelled on the 1970s watches made by GO’s East German predecessor, the Seventies Chronograph is equipped with the in-house cal. 37-02, a high-spec calibre decorated in the brand’s recognisable, German-inspired style. Initial thoughts Having debuted a decade ago, the Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date been iterated in several colours, including ochre, grey-blue, grey, and green. Despite the excellent movement, especially in this price range, the Seventies Chronograph hasn’t really gained much traction, perhaps because of the chunky proportions and retro style – which is quite contradictory since current tastes lean towards vintage-inspired watches with comparable vintage-style size. Priced at US$16,000, the Seventies Chronograph is priced well, particularly considering the in-house movement. The Seventies Chronograph is proof that does GO does movements well, though its designs might not be for everyone. GUB styling The TV-screen case is inspired by 1970s watches made by VEB Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe, or GUB for short, the state-owned watchmaking enterprise of East Germany. GUB was later privatised and evolved into today’s GO. While the East German originals were no frills, the Seventies Chronograph has quality of make. Water resistant to 100m, th...