Hodinkee
Hands-On: Patek Philippe Ref. 6159G Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date
Patek expands its smoked sapphire dial collection with a second new release.
Results for Panda / Reverse Panda Dial
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Monochrome
In-Depth – Deciphering the Revolutionary Rolex Dynapulse Escapement and the Calibre 7135
Rolex has changed… Not marginally, but significantly. We knew the brand was capable of being rather unpredictable and capable of bold creative moves, such as bubble-decorated dials and watches with a guilloché pattern. The days when Rolex simply revamped a collection every 10 years by implementing incremental upgrades and releasing new dial colours every two […]
SJX Watches
Biver Automatique’s in Yellow Gold with a Carbon Option
Having launched the Automatique last year in a range of metals except yellow gold, Biver has now revealed a pair in the classic precious metal. The Automatique in yellow gold debuts with a matching solid yellow gold dial or a more unusual dial in glossy, woven carbon fibre composite. Initial thoughts I was already a proponent of the Automatique, mainly because of the high quality of construction inside and out. The yellow gold duo add more options to the offering, but arguably bring more than just a new colour because the material evokes a vintage feel that suits the design. Between rose and yellow gold, I would pick the latter. The carbon dial version is interesting because it brings to mind the era of the 1990s when woven carbon fibre was a thing. The novelty of the material has since been supplanted by more exotic carbon composites, but the retro feel of the carbon dial is appealing. Moreover, it brings to mind the black-and-gold livery of John Player Special Formula 1 cars, which is precisely the point of this version according to Biver chief executive James Marks. Both versions are priced identically to their equivalents in the standard and Atelier Series. That’s fair enough but the carbon should be priced a little lower since the other Atelier models have mineral stone or fired enamel dials, which are typically costlier and harder to work than carbon fibre. The original colour of gold The new Automatique retains all of the features of the earlier versions, includin...
SJX Watches
De Bethune Turns to Swizz Beatz for Kind of Two GMT
The third iteration of De Bethune’s swivelling, double-faced watch is the Kind of Two GMT “Season 3” conceived in collaboration with American rapper and watch enthusiast Swizz Beatz. Powered by the hand-wound DB2517 movement, the watch indicates one time zone on the front and another on the reverse, with both sides able to be worn face up thanks to patented, pivoting “floating” lugs. Initial thoughts The Kind of Two series employs a useful reversible case, cleverly using the “floating” lug construction of the DB28 to create a double-faced watch. Here one dial is traditional with blued steel hands, and the other an open-worked face revealing the movement that also has a regulator-style display for the second time zone. The clever approach with a unique movement is typical De Bethune, although this loses some novelty as the third double-faced watch in the De Bethune line-up. The Kind of Two GMT is definitely one of the most elaborate two time zone watches on the market, but at over US$200,000, it is pricey for a GMT, even by the standards of independent watchmaking (Voutilainen’s GMT, for instance, costs less). Two-faced The “Season 3” edition adopts a restrained palette of black and gold with blue accents. The 43.3 mm by 11.4 mm case is titanium and zirconium, with blued steel hands and a blue-and-black guilloche dial centre on the front showing local time. Notably, this dial includes a jumping seconds that is driven by a secondary escapement visible on ...
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Tudor Black Bay 58 Burgundy, now with METAS Movement and More Updates
Of all the new releases from Tudor at this year’s Watches and Wonders, the standout piece was undoubtedly the evolution of the Black Bay 58 line, now presented in a striking all-burgundy design, with both the dial and bezel dressed in the deep red tone. While the dial colour holds historical significance, the real game-changer […]
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Ball Watch’s Take on A Unique Everyday Tool Watch - Ball Fireman Nightbreaker
Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Introduces a New, Smaller BR-05 36MM
Twenty years after the release of the Bell & Ross BR-01, which first showcased the square case shape and bold legibility that would become their aesthetic hallmarks, the Franco-Swiss brand is celebrating with new iterations of their most popular and recognizable watches. Among these new editions are four versions of the BR-05 36mm, which gives the model a smaller size and new dial colorways. The most noticeable update to the BR-05 is right there in its name-the smaller and thinner satin-polished steel case measures at 36mm in diameter and 8.5mm in thickness, giving it significantly less heft than the previous 40, 41, and 42mm models. Four screws ensure that the upper section of the case is hermetically sealed to the bottom, and give the iconic rounded square extra urban-industrial character. An integrated bracelet furthers the watch’s sporty-yet-elegant silhouette, secured by a folding satin-finished buckle. A screw-down crown flanked by guards and emblazoned with the Bell & Ross ampersand logo ensures 100 meters of water resistance, while a Caliber BR-CAL.329 automatic movement ticks away inside, maintaining a 54-hour power reserve. Each of the four new models features identical applique numerals and indexes, and skeletonised hour and minute hands (all filled with white Super-LumiNova X1). However, each dial varies in both color and material, all of which lean towards chic-versatility (yes, I did make that phrase up), but maintain a cohesive aesthetic. The first o...
SJX Watches
Tudor’s Black Bay Pro, Now in Opaline White
Tudor has given its Black Bay Pro a new look with an “opaline” white dial, fulfilling a long-standing enthusiasts’ wish. This new model replaces the black dial launched in 2022, while retaining the same 39 mm case and 24-hour fixed bezel. It’s equipped with a pale orange GMT hand that stands out prominently against the “polar” white dial. Initial thoughts Three years after its initial release, the Black Bay Pro remains one of the strongest value propositions in the sub–US$5,000 segment of dual time zone watches. Priced at US$4,375 on a steel bracelet, the Black Bay Pro is a true GMT with an independently adjustable local hour hand. Plus it features a solid bracelet with a micro-adjust clasp and a high-spec in-house movement. Naturally, the fact that it’s reminiscent of the Rolex Explorer II “polar” doesn’t hurt. The only drawback is the 14.6 mm case that is a little too thick for its compact diameter. Fortunately, Tudor does offer a better proportioned dual time zone with the Black Bay 58 GMT, but that’s only available in black and burgundy for now. Opaline dial The domed white dial is the star of the show. Like the original model, it features applied luminous ceramic-polymer hour markers. Here the markings are in black on a matte white dial, matched with an orange GMT hand. Apart from the dial, the watch remains identical to the earlier Black Bay Pro. It features a 39 mm case housing the COSC-certified MT5652 movement, which operates at 28,800 beat...
Time+Tide
Trilobe’s airy Folle Journée gets a touch of green and rhodium plating for a more ethereal feel
Shiny new rhodium plates, and a green... Dial?The post Trilobe’s airy Folle Journée gets a touch of green and rhodium plating for a more ethereal feel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Introducing – The New-Generation Perrelet Turbine Chrono Neo
Perrelet’s flagship Turbine, with its mesmerising 12-blade turbine spinning to reveal glimpses of the lower dial, returns with a sporty chronograph complication. Bold and contemporary, the new generation of Turbine Chrono Neo in lightweight titanium cases relies on an elegant, highly legible display of elapsed times using two central chronograph hands. The three new Turbine […]
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Could F.P.Journe's Chronomètre Furtif Dethrone The King Of Waitlists, The Chronomètre Bleu, As The Brand's 'It' Watch?
Another watch from F.P.Journe with a difficult-to-produce dial, case, and fantastic movement.
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A Refined Tool Watch With Some Interesting Tritium - BALL Watch Engineer III Starlight
Deployant
New: Patek Philippe 5370R
The Patek Philippe 5370R introduces a notable addition to the brand's collection with its debut in rose gold, marking a departure from previous versions. The use of a brown Grand Feu enamel dial paired with beige champlevé enamel subdials brings a distinct and elegant color combination.
Fratello
Hands-On: The Gerald Charles Maestro GC Sport Tennis
The 25th-anniversary celebration at Gerald Charles continues with the new Maestro GC Sport Tennis. This limited-edition watch offers a unique surface finish, a vibrant dial, and a comfortable strap. For those who play the game regularly, this watch was made to take on the courts instead of living in the spectators’ booth. We were fortunate […] Visit Hands-On: The Gerald Charles Maestro GC Sport Tennis to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic 'Frozen'
Come for the cool dial, stay for the awesome movement.
Deployant
Live from WWG25: new from Rudis Sylva
Now, live from Geneva, we bring you the new Rudis Sylva RS23 Blue, with an amazing blue galvanised dial. Two versions, both limited to 8 each.
Monochrome
First Look – Hublot Big Bang Unico Mint Green and Petrol Ceramic
Turning twenty this year, Hublot‘s Big Bang exploded on the watch scene with its bold fusion of state-of-the-materials and extroverted design. Hublot’s first in-house flyback chronograph movement, the Unico, materialised in 2010 and was deployed inside the specially designed Big Bang Unico, with its mechanism visible on the dial. As a brand that has played […]
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A Charming Cartier Tank or JLC Reverso Alternative With A Pop of Color - Oris Rectangular
Hodinkee
Introducing: Nomos Glashütte Introduces The Club Sport Worldtimer In Eight Colors
It's no 31-color launch like last year, but there's still a dial for everybody with the first Club Sport with a worldtime complication.
Fratello
Chopard Introduces Two Heavy Hitters - The L.U.C Flying T Twin Perpetual And The Alpine Eagle 41 XP CS Platinum
For Watches and Wonders 2025, Chopard introduces two “heavy hitters” representing opposite sides of sophisticated exclusivity. The Alpine Eagle 41 XP CS Platinum is a luxurious sports watch with a sub-10mm-thick case matched to an integrated bracelet in 950 platinum and paired with a shimmering “Shades of Ice” dial. The L.U.C Flying T Twin Perpetual […] Visit Chopard Introduces Two Heavy Hitters - The L.U.C Flying T Twin Perpetual And The Alpine Eagle 41 XP CS Platinum to read the full article.
Fratello
Introducing: The Updated Oris Big Crown Pointer Date In New Sizes And Colors
The Big Crown Pointer Date is a true staple in Oris’s history. It has been in the brand’s collection continuously since 1938. In 2021, Oris introduced a new and refined version of its beloved Big Crown Pointer Date. This 38mm watch featured the impressive Oris Calibre 403, a smooth bezel, and a cleaner dial layout. […] Visit Introducing: The Updated Oris Big Crown Pointer Date In New Sizes And Colors to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Spring Is In Bloom With The Grand Seiko's New SBGW323 Kiri
The Japanese watchmaker celebrates the Kiri flower with a stunning purple Mt. Iwate dial in this elegant 36.5mm watch.
Deployant
New: Piaget Andy Warhol Tiger’s Eye
A new expression of Piaget's popular Andy Warhol (Foundation) collaboration has yielded this novelty with the use of the Tiger's Eye on the dial.
Video
The Rolex Explorer: Understanding The Iconic Tool Watch | Reference Points
Worn & Wound
Tudor Introduces a New Black Bay 58 in Red, with Some Surprises
Tudor returns to the Black Bay 58 in a major way at this year’s Watches & Wonders, with an update inspired by a 1990s prototype that had been nearly lost to time. The latest 58 comes in a bold burgundy colorway, with a bright red dial and matching bezel. It’s a decidedly different approach to the Black Bay 58, which has been, in our minds, a thoughtful reinterpretation of an old fashioned tool watch. This new version is significantly more extroverted in its personality and appearance – it has considerably more flash than your standard issue 58. The broad strokes of this Black Bay 58 are effectively in line with earlier versions of the watch. It maintains the 39mm case with the same mix of brushed and polished finishing. Circular and rectangular hour markers are generously filled with luminous material, and of course we have the “Snowflake” handset that is common to all Black Bays. But there are a number of small refinements and improvements to this 58 make it feel a bit more contemporaneous with other recent Tudor releases. First, bracelet selection. For the first time, the Black Bay is available on a five-link, Jubilee-style bracelet. It’s a natural fit for a watch like the 58 and immediately gives it a look that is a bit dressier and less tool oriented. It’s still available on a three-link bracelet as well, but this bracelet is now fitted with Tudor’s T-fit clasp (as is the five-link, and the optional rubber strap). Like the Black Bay 68 we covered ea...
Monochrome
First Look – The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle and Patrimony 270th-Anniversary Collection
Select members of Vacheron Constantin’s Traditionnelle and Patrimony families have been invited to join in the 270th-anniversary celebrations. Eight references from both families have been singled out for the special treatment and flaunt dials decorated with a unique motif created for the 270th anniversary of the brand. As important as the dial, the manufacture calibres […]
SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph in White Ceramic.
TAG Heuer’s flagship launch at Watches & Wonders 2025 is the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph F1, a tribute to the brand’s storied Formula 1 history. This striking timepiece features a white ceramic case that dispenses with a traditional metallic inner container in a departure from technical norms in construction. A red translucent dial reveal the mechanics below, while the chronograph counters - finished with an asphalt-like texture,white and yellow grid markings, and official F1 typography - proudly display British F1 commentator David Croft’s famous phrase: “Lights Out & Away We Go.” Initial thoughts At first glance, the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph F1 may appear to be just another Formula 1–inspired watch. However, a closer look reveals the subtle yet distinctive details that set it apart from its competitors. Rather than relying on overt F1 motifs, it integrates refined elements-such as the checkered-flag pattern-that showcase its superb craftsmanship and elevate it above other racing-inspired chronographs. Priced at CHF155,000, the Monaco may initially appear costly, particularly given TAG Heuer’s history of being more accessible. Yet, beyond the brand’s heritage lies a timepiece whose exceptional craftsmanship more than warrants its price tag. It is a Vaucher-powered rattrapante chronograph, and this version is unquestionably the most appealing of the iterations to date. And the Formula 1–inspired touches are thoughtfully integrated, an...
Fratello
IWC Presents A Plethora Of New Ingenieur Watches In Black Ceramic, 5N Gold, And Steel - Including A Perpetual Calendar
Two years ago, IWC introduced the new iteration of the Ingenieur as a capsule collection. Three steel and one Grade 5 titanium creation debuted, resembling the 1976 Ingenieur SL ref. 1832, an original Gérald Genta design. A blue-dial version was missing from the original lineup, but it came eventually. For this year’s Watches and Wonders, […] Visit IWC Presents A Plethora Of New Ingenieur Watches In Black Ceramic, 5N Gold, And Steel - Including A Perpetual Calendar to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Patek Philippe Nautilus 7010G-013 and 7010/1R-013
A serene ocean blue Nautilus is added to the lineup, complete with a wavy dial.
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