Hodinkee
Introducing: Merci Instruments Unveils A Quartet Of New LMM-01s
Straight from Paris, the latest four dial iterations on this modern classic span from pure dress to utilitarian field.
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Hodinkee
Teddy Baldassarre
Bulova Devil Diver Review
The Bulova Devil Diver (formally known as the Bulova Oceanographer) first debuted back in the 1960s, when it went on to become something of a cult classic. It wasn’t a record-breaking dive watch worn by the world’s most accomplished that-and-that, it just had a striking design, and there was something edgy and subversive about that “666ft” on the dial. Of course, that number has to do with its water resistance and nothing sinister, but the Devil Diver moniker is really catchy and has stuck. Back in 2018, Bulova reissued the Oceanographer, but at 44mm wide it was just not what a lot of people were clamoring for. A few years later, in 2021, came this 41mm wide version that is much truer to the original. Four years later, the affordable dive watch market has gotten more competitive but the Bulova Devil Diver still holds its own, so let’s take a look at what makes this orange-dial diver feel like a slice of heaven for well under $1,000. Bulova Devil Diver Case: When the Bulova Devil Diver was first reintroduced back in 2018, there were quite a few gripes we all heard about the 44mm case being just way too big and not true to the original. Fortunately, the 2021 iteration brought the case back to the 41mm size of the original, a decision that won over the hearts of some jilted purists. To be fair, you do not have to be a vintage purist to see why a 41mm case will always be preferable to 44mm to a vast majority of contemporary buyers. Of course, the ~202 meters of water...
Worn & Wound
The Latest Oris Hölstein Edition is a Blacked Out ProPilot with a Glowing Surprise
For the sixth year in a row, Oris has launched a watch on the anniversary of their founding. The Hölstein Edition watches, which debut each year on June 1, are an opportunity for Oris to celebrate their heritage, release a watch that’s perhaps a little outside the box, and have some fun in the process. Previous Hölstein Editions include an Aquis diver with a bold purple dial, the revival of a classic complication, and, most recently, an unusual and very cool blacked out edition of their classic Divers Sixty-FIve. A throughline through these watches is the appearance of the Oris Bear, and for this year’s Hölstein Edition we get a particularly fun cameo from the brand’s mascot via a fully lumed dial. This year’s watch is a fresh take on the ProPilot, Oris’s contemporary, aviation inspired watch. For this limited edition (as with previous Hölstein Editions, this one is limited to 250 pieces) the stainless steel case has been given an aggressive black DLC treatment. It’s still, of course, unmistakably a ProPilot, with the hallmark fluted bezel and the gently curved 41mm case. This is much more than a blacked out ProPilot, though. Oris is having a lot of fun with the dial, giving it a full lume treatment that appears white in the daylight and glows green in the dark when the luminescent material is activated. The Arabic numerals, dial text, and hands are all in matte black, which makes the dial easy to read in both well lit situations and, importantly, in the ...
Time+Tide
Oris continues its annual tradition with a luminous twist for 2025’s Hölstein Edition
The first Big Crown ProPilot without a date window, this full lume dial Oris has a bear-shaped Easter egg.The post Oris continues its annual tradition with a luminous twist for 2025’s Hölstein Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 “Lavender” Vs. Grand Seiko “Kiri” SBGW323
Welcome to another installment of Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, we decided to put the Swiss up against the Japanese, each with a purple-dial stainless steel watch of their own. The Rolex Oyster Perpetual with a lavender dial represents the Swiss, while the Grand Seiko “Kiri” SBGW323 represents the Japanese. Both came out during Watches […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 “Lavender” Vs. Grand Seiko “Kiri” SBGW323 to read the full article.
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Never Pay Full Price For A Watch! What Makes a Watch Expensive? Watch This Video Before Buying Watch
SJX Watches
Up Close: Breguet Classique Souscription
Breguet got off to a good start for its 250th anniversary with the Classique Souscription, which despite being not an entirely new model in technical terms, is arguably the best watch the brand has launched in years, perhaps reflecting the influence of a new chief executive. Powered by a calibre based on the longstanding Tradition movement, the one-handed Classique Souscription marries an atypical (for Breguet) 20th century case with a dial inspired by 19th century pocket watches – resulting in a surprisingly coherent creation that still feels quintessentially Breguet. Initial thoughts I was pleasantly surprised by the Classique Souscription. Breguet managed to take a familiar model and transform it into something different and appealing. The brand didn’t manage to do the same with the second anniversary model, which is essentially a rehash of the Tradition but with an enamel dial. Sized just right, the Classique Souscription feels like it was conceived by an enthusiast with knowledge of vintage watches; the red leather-covered presentation box underlines that. The design is simple overall, but enhanced with details like a sharply finished single hand and “secret signature” engraved the old fashion way. The form of the case is clearly early to mid 20th century, while the dial evokes the original Souscription pocket watch. Although the case and dial styles are 150 years apart, they complement each other almost perfectly; the result still looks very much like a Breg...
WatchAdvice
Breitling Top Time Martini Racing Review: A Winning Partnership
The Breitling Top Time Martini Racing is a stylish tribute to the brand’s motorsport heritage, blending retro 1960s design with the iconic flair of Martini Racing, and here is how it performs in the modern-day watch world… What We Love The vibrant colours and dial stand out on the wrist A super easy-wearing watch thanks to its dimensions and lightness A great If You Know, You Know (IYKYK) collaboration What We Don’t The 38mm size wears on the smaller side, and may not suit larger wrists The domed crystal does distort the tachymeter scale on the outer section of the dial Start function on the chronograph is a little stiffer than expected Overall Rating: 8.6 / 10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Two Brands, One Shared Passion Normally when watch brands embark on collaborations with companies or brands outside the watch world, there is normally a pre-existing association in place. Usually through a sponsorship of an event, or partnership with a movie, that kind of thing. However, with the new Breitling Top Time Martini Racing, this is not quite the case. What it is, however, is a partnership based on a shared passion – Motorsport. Interestingly, neither Breitling nor Martini Racing are motoring brands either. Before you say, “But Martini Racing is one of the most iconic motorsports brands out there!” to which you are right, I’ll preface that statement. Martini Racing is part of Martini & Rossi, the alcohol brand base...
Deployant
New: Leica ZM1 and ZM2 Urban Green
Leica presents a new colour for their ZM1 and ZM2 collection - now in Urban Green with a fumé noir dial which fades from green to black.
Fratello
One Of The Best-Kept Secrets: The Gold Speedmaster First Omega In Space
Ten years ago, Omega introduced the Globemaster, the Seamaster 300 Spectre edition, and the white-dial Speedmaster Silver Snoopy Award 45th Anniversary limited edition. That year, Omega focused primarily on the Spectre and the Snoopy, neglecting to give the Globemaster the attention it deserved. Additionally, the Sedna (rose) Gold Speedmaster First Omega in Space (FOiS) did […] Visit One Of The Best-Kept Secrets: The Gold Speedmaster First Omega In Space to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing – Awake Presents the new Son Mai “Frosted Leaf” Collection
A young French brand, Awake Watches was founded by Lilian Thibault in 2019 with the idea to raise awareness of our planet’s limited resources. From there, the brand diversified with NASA-themed models or watches with a dial inspired by the natural geometry of a sunflower. Last year, Awake released Son Mài, its first permanent collection […]
Video
The Ultimate Seiko Diver Or Hype? Triple Captain Willard Watch Review
Fratello
Hands-On With The Raymond Weil Freelancer Complete Calendar
Raymond Weil seems to be on a bit of a roll. The Millesime collection is broadly loved and appreciated, and these new Freelancers hit the spot too. Today, I go hands-on with two versions of the new Raymond Weil Freelancer Complete Calendar. I got to spend some time with the steel blue-dial version on the […] Visit Hands-On With The Raymond Weil Freelancer Complete Calendar to read the full article.
Deployant
New: Ba111od Chapter 4 Onyx Flying Tourbillon
Ba1110d once again partnered with with Olivier Mory to bring this next iteration of their flying tourbillon, now in a very discreet, onyx dial.
WatchAdvice
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Review: Is This the Most Versatile Luxury Watch?
I took the latest Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Small Seconds for a spin to see if it really lives up to the hype. Is it truly as versatile and elegant as it looks? Here’s everything you need to know! What We Love Fits perfectly, even on my smaller 16cm wrist size! This is a very versatile watch that can suit a variety of occasions and outfits. With its dual time functionality, it is also an ideal travel timepiece. The flip mechanism of the Reverso never gets old, it is just fun to see! What We Don’t The manual wound movement might not be for everyone in today’s automatic world. A 30m water resistance isn’t ideal if you want to use the watch as daily. Price point can be a little high, especially for newcomers to the Reverso family! Overall Rating: 8.6/ 10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is a watchmaking icon that was born in 1931, created to meet the demands of British polo players who wanted a watch that could withstand the rigours of the sport. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ingenious design of a reversible case protected the delicate watch during matches, with the dial being turned over to “hide” from impact. The Reverso blended functionality with Art Deco elegance of the 1930s, leading to a timeless design. Over the decades, the Reverso has gone from being a practical sports watch to a symbol of sophistication, elegance and innovation in the world of horology. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ...
Fratello
Sunday Morning Showdown: Oris Divers Date Vs. Longines Legend Diver
Another Sunday morning, another showdown. Grab your hot cup of coffee and get ready to vote! This week, it’s all about popular retro dive watches. One is the recently released white-dial Longines Legend Diver. It was met with much praise from media and fans alike as a brighter alternative to the black- and blue-dial options. […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Oris Divers Date Vs. Longines Legend Diver to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Selten Grand Feu Enamel “Prism Violet”
Let’s take a quick inventory of some of the small watch brands making enamel dials of some kind. This is a segment that’s become ultra competitive in the wake of anOrdain, the Glasgow based indie that popularized this style of artisanal watchmaking in a more accessible way, coming on the scene several years ago. There’s 5280 Watch Company, based in Colorado and creating a truly unique enamel dial that is also decorated with an old fashioned engine turning technique. Then there’s Statera, based in Brazil, a brand that makes grand feu enamel dials that are meant to evoke midcentury classics from Patek Philippe and others. There are a bunch of brands who don’t specialize in enamel, but have dabbled in it, one way or another. We can include De Rijke & Co. here, who produced a limited run of champlevé enamel dialed watches with designs by Guy Allen last year. There are others: Louis Erard and Seiko have had notable enamel releases in the last few years, and we can even include James Lamb in the conversation, although the handmade silver cases he produces push his watches just a bit outside that tempting sub $5,000 price point. This much enamel would have been unthinkable in a pre anOrdain world, and I think it’s important to recognize that at the outset of any discussion of a new enamel dialed watch, because any new watch in this category will be seen, perhaps unfairly, as a challenger to anOrdain’s crown. Their waitlist now reportedly stretches to 2029, so i...
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The John Robert Archetype is a dressy tool watch from Melbourne with an intriguing linen dial
Fratello
Hands-On With The Remarkable Selten Grand Feu Enamel Moonstone
If you have never heard of the brand Selten, you aren’t the only one. However, the brand founded by Leonardo Tsai has been around since 2017. The Hong Kong-based Selten founder comes from a family of dial makers, so he grew up around watches. After an initial stint in the world of finance, Tsai gave […] Visit Hands-On With The Remarkable Selten Grand Feu Enamel Moonstone to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing – The Bauhaus-Inspired Stowa Antea Classic KS Rose Gold and Anthracite
Founded by Walter Storz in 1927, German watch brand Stowa is historically associated with Flieger (pilot) watches. A lesser-known chapter in the history of the brand is its series of watches that embraced the design tenets put forward by the state-run Bauhaus school of design. Produced in 1937 and designed by the reputed dial company […]
Monochrome
Introducing – The Accessible, New Formex Field Automatic Gen-2
In 2022, following the launch of the Reef dive watch and the casual-sporty Essence, Formex expanded into the field watch segment with the release of the Field Automatic. Housed in a 41mm titanium case with 150m of water resistance, the first iteration featured a range of dial colours, including Charcoal, Petrol Blue, Ash Grey, Mahogany […]
Deployant
New: Hublot Square Bang Tourbillon
Hublot releases the Square Bang Tourbillon, a square shaped case in carbon fibre with a square form movement, with square bridges visible through the dial.
SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Lapis Lazuli
Continuing with the blue theme for its 160th anniversary, Zenith has upgraded its compact, vintage-inspired chronograph with a natural stone dial. The Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Lapis Lazuli is a combination of old and new, plus a luxe dial. The watch is equipped with the latest-generation El Primero movement, but dressed in a 1970s design – here upgraded with a dial of lapis lazuli, the same semiprecious stone found on the G.F.J. cal. 135 revival. Initial thoughts I like the basic design of the Chronomaster Original because it’s essentially a remake of the 1969 El Primero, which is a retro design that still works well today. Zenith has made too many exact replicas of the vintage originals, but fortunately the lapis lazuli edition is different. The stone dial sets it apart visually, while also giving it a more refined feel than the typical Zenith. Though simple, the lapis dial feels like a substantive upgrade to an established and appealing design. The upgraded dial, however, comes at a price that’s too steep. At US$22,700, the lapis dial costs almost US$10,000 more than the standard model with a brass dial. The difference is too much and equally difficult to justify. A prototype revived Although the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar a seems like a vintage remake, it is not exactly. Instead, the standard model introduced last year was based on a 1970s prototype that never made it intro production. So it has the familiar 1969 El Primero case and dial la...
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Zelos BlackTip Automatic Teal 200m Dive Watch 70s Inspired With Quick Micro Adjust Miyota 9015
Monochrome
First Look – The New Delma Montego Chronograph Black Editions
In 2022, the Lengnau watchmaker Delma returned the Montego, a bold, versatile chronograph with a racing-inspired edge defined by its prominent external tachymeter scale. Built as a genuine sports watch, it’s ready for adventure on land or underwater, thanks to its robust 200m water resistance. Initially launched in four dial colours, white, black, green, and […]
Quill & Pad
New Release: MB&F; Special Project One: Seemingly-Simple, 38 mm, Time-Only, and Simply-Sensational
The MB&F; SP One, initially dubbed "Three Circles", showcases a trinity of floating elements – the barrel, balance wheel, and dial – defying gravity on your wrist.
Fratello
Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Railmaster (2025) Vs. Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M (38mm)
This week, Omega launched two new versions of its 38mm Railmaster. One features a gray gradient dial, while the other has a beige gradient dial. They share a flat, matte, time-only layout, which sets them apart from the current Seamaster Aqua Terra lineup. The new Railmaster is also €1,000 less expensive than the similarly specced […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Railmaster (2025) Vs. Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M (38mm) to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces the Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035
Having already revealed the Tradition “Souscription” as the first watch for its 250th anniversary, Breguet has just launched the Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035. Essentially a throwback to a first-generation Tradition model, the new 7035 is set apart by its flinque enamel dial, a first for the Tradition collection. And unlike the regular-production Souscription, the Tradition Seconde Rétrograde is limited to 250 pieces. Initial thoughts While the Classique Souscription is eminently traditional (despite its case style), the Tradition Seconde Rétrograde feels more traditional Breguet with a style that is more typical of the brand’s current offerings. The enamel dial is a good way of rebooting the Tradition, which is now two decades old. And the watch itself is beautiful and still Breguet in style. However, this is arguably less interesting than the Souscription, because its only point of difference is the grand feu enamel dial for the time. Dial aside, it’s basically the preceding model in new dress. Breguet does have more in store for its 250th anniversary than a pair of Tradition models, so it’ll be worth keeping an eye on the brand as the year progresses. Tradition throwback The new Tradition is a variant of one of the first models in the collection, but upgraded with an enamel dial. The solid gold dial is decorated in flinque enamel, which is fired translucent enamel over engine turning in the Quai de l’Horloge pattern, which was developed for Breguet’...
Worn & Wound
Ming Introduces the New 29.01 “Midnight” Worldtimer
Ming has announced their latest release, a follow up to the 29.01 Worldtimer which launched in 2023. The new 29.01 Midnight is conceived as the flipside to the original, which was presented in titanium with a blue/black gradient dial. The new watch is a blacked out version, with a DLC coating on the titanium case, and a black dial with layers of sapphire and, as we often see with Ming, loaded with lume. The release follows a bit of a pattern we saw with the 37.09, which debuted with the bright and colorful Bluefin about one year ago, and saw a darker sibling emerge several months later with the Uni. The colorway of the 29.01 Midnight is, in fact, directly lifted from the Uni, providing yet another connection between Ming watch families. The 29.01 is one of my personal favorite examples of Ming’s higher end, haute horlogery offerings, as the worldtimer format really allows the brand to flex a bit. While I think many probably associate Ming with a certain strain of minimalism, the 29.01, by necessity, is throwing a lot at you, and it’s a great accomplishment on Ming’s part that the watch is able to communicate so much so clearly. Here’s how it works. The cities representing the world’s time zones are printed on a sapphire upper dial. Below that, a metal base dial with a very subtle grained finish has the 24 hour scale printed on it. Throughout the day, the base dial rotates so that the 24 hour scale lines up with the correct time in each world city, hour by hou...
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