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Exclusive: Top 50 Swiss Watch Companies of 2023 and Future Forecasts With Oliver R Müller | Part II Revolution
Mar 25, 2024

Exclusive: Top 50 Swiss Watch Companies of 2023 and Future Forecasts With Oliver R Müller | Part II

Presenting part two of Wei and Oliver R Müller’s insightful discussion, where they delve into the triumphs of the Swiss watch industry in 2023. From the dominance of the ‘Big Four’ luxury watch brands to intriguing surprises within the industry, join them as they unravel the fascinating narrative behind the success story of Swiss horology. […]

Watch Lume 101: The Complete History and Primer on Reading Time in the Teddy Baldassarre
Mar 21, 2024

Watch Lume 101: The Complete History and Primer on Reading Time in the

Luminous material on watch dials - referred to in shorthand as “lume” by both industry insiders and avid enthusiasts - is an element taken for granted nowadays. It can be said without hyperbole that a watch dial without lume is a stylistic outlier in this modern era, but this wasn’t always the case. Discerning the time in the dark presented a major problem for watchmakers in the early days before the widespread use of electricity in homes, and at first the only solution that could be offered was an audible rather than visual one: watches that chimed the time on demand, like minute repeaters and sonneries. Only a handful of wealthy individuals could afford these highly complicated timepieces, however, so a more widely accessible technology was needed as wristwatches spread to the general populace. Around the dawn of the 20th Century, watchmakers turned their attention to making watch dials that could be read in the dark, paving the way for the luminous materials that are still used commonly today. The road to perfecting the technology, however, would not be easy, and at times would even be dangerous. Radium The first material applied to watch dials for nighttime luminescence was a paint made from radium with zinc sulfide, which, thanks to radium’s half-life of 1,600 years, offered a long-lasting glow during that period before dimming - the catch being that radium, as its name implies, is radioactive. One of its earliest uses can be traced to a pioneer of devel...

Hands-On With The Glorious Zenith Chronomaster Sport Titanium - A Watch That Plays Clever Mind Games Fratello
Zenith Chronomaster Sport Titanium - Mar 20, 2024

Hands-On With The Glorious Zenith Chronomaster Sport Titanium - A Watch That Plays Clever Mind Games

If you are not a fan of titanium watches, the Zenith Chronomaster Sport will confirm the number-one issue you might have with them. Straight out of the box, this new Chronomaster Sport feels super lightweight. If you want a watch to have some substantial heft, this is not the watch for you. But that’s the […] Visit Hands-On With The Glorious Zenith Chronomaster Sport Titanium - A Watch That Plays Clever Mind Games to read the full article.

Exclusive: Top 50 Swiss Watch Companies of 2023 and Future Forecasts With Oliver R Müller | Part I Revolution
Mar 18, 2024

Exclusive: Top 50 Swiss Watch Companies of 2023 and Future Forecasts With Oliver R Müller | Part I

In 2023, the Swiss watch industry celebrated a remarkable milestone, with record-breaking sales reaching CHF 26.7 billion. Wristwatches accounted for CHF 25.5 billion of this total, marking a notable 7.7% increase, alongside the sale of 16.9 million units. At first glance, these figures paint a picture of resounding success. However, a deeper analysis within the […]

Citizen Marks Centenary with Pocket Watch and New Calibre SJX Watches
Citizen Marks Centenary Mar 18, 2024

Citizen Marks Centenary with Pocket Watch and New Calibre

Twenty twenty-four marks the 100th anniversary of the first-ever Citizen watch – a pocket watch powered by the hand-wound cal. 16. To celebrate the centenary, Citizen looks towards the next century with an all-new calibre making its debut in the 100th Anniversary of the First Citizen Watch Special Limited Edition, a pocket watch with a pleasing vintage aesthetic but one that’s entirely modern in materials and manufacturing. Initial thoughts Pocket watches are uncommon today, which is perhaps why they are difficult to get right in terms of look and feel. Contemporary pocket watches often try to replicate the look and feel of their vintage counterparts, but usually end up seeming artificial and lacking in authenticity. As a result, the Citizen anniversary pocket watch is certainly an interesting proposition.  The Citizen cal. 0270 At first sight, the watch is convincingly vintage in appearance. It is evidently carefully designed, with classical styling on both sides and well-chosen details in the movement, which lends it a genuine sense of timelessness. The dial design is evocative of railway pocket watches (which Citizen did supply to Japanese railway companies), while the movement has the elegant bridges and proportions characteristics of old-school calibres. But on closer examination, many details in the dial and case reveal themselves to be modern, like the fact that the case is titanium or the balance wheel has Gyromax-style regulating weights. Even the seemingly a...

eBay Finds: A Legendary Seiko Diver, an Unusual Mondia Chronograph, and an LCD Watch by Texas Instruments Worn & Wound
Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Mar 15, 2024

eBay Finds: A Legendary Seiko Diver, an Unusual Mondia Chronograph, and an LCD Watch by Texas Instruments

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster By now I think most vintage watch collectors are familiar with the fantastically named Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver. I mean, you just can’t beat a watch that literally covers all the bases right? There are numerous iterations of the Chronomaster, and this is one of the better looking ones in my opinion. The black dial is nice and clean with gorgeous lume, with bright white hands for excellent contrast. The chrono seconds hand has a large lollipop tip. The large steel case is unpolished with sharp edges and sweet chamfers on the lugs. Even the crown is signed with the Nivada logo. Overall this is a great piece. The seller states the watch works but is a little slow and the chrono seconds hand doesn’t quite reset to zero, so keep that in mind when bidding.  View auction here Vintage Wittnauer  Here we have a really cool looking vintage Wittnauer. The steel case is nice with really good looking lugs, and it looks unpolished with sharp edges. Seller doesn’t state the size but I’d guess about 34mm wide. The silver dial gives off Polerouter vibes with the outer chapter ring. Thin steel hands with nice lume plots that match the...

A Watch Writer Creates His Ultimate Go Anywhere, Do Anything Watch with the VPC Type37HW Worn & Wound
VPC Type37HW VPC Mar 14, 2024

A Watch Writer Creates His Ultimate Go Anywhere, Do Anything Watch with the VPC Type37HW

VPC is a new brand founded by Thomas van Straaten, who may be familiar to some readers as a longtime writer at Fratello. The first watch from his new endeavor, the Type37HW, feels very much like the type of thing that someone fully engaged in this community would bring to life as a passion project. It has many of the hallmarks of an enthusiast focused watch, with lots of little details that get people in the business of writing about these things excited. Most of all, it feels foundational, like the beginning of a platform for future expansion. If there’s one thing watch writers can’t abide, it’s a watch that feels like a one off, vanity project, and, unsurprisingly, VPC doesn’t even have a whiff of that sentiment.  The VPC acronym that gives the brand its name stands for “Venustas Per Constantiam,” which equates to “charm through restraint,” and if you look at the overall presentation of the Type37HW you can really feel the restraint. The watch is sober but doesn’t feel boring, and each individual component part seems to be well considered and thought through. Whether you like the design or not is of course subjective, but I don’t think anyone could reasonably argue that the watch doesn’t have a coherent aesthetic.  The broad conceit here is that the Type37HW is a “go anywhere, do anything” style watch, and the specs reflect that. It’s 37.5mm in diameter and measures 9.8mm tall (including the crystal). The stainless steel case and bracelet ha...

Fratello Talks: Watch Marketing - Past, Present, And Future Fratello
Mar 14, 2024

Fratello Talks: Watch Marketing - Past, Present, And Future

Welcome to Fratello Talks. This week, you join your host Nacho alongside RJ and Lex to discuss the evolution of watch marketing. The idea of marketing watches has been around since selling them became a lucrative endeavor. Since then, we have seen the watch industry’s efforts take many different forms, from posters to print ads, […] Visit Fratello Talks: Watch Marketing - Past, Present, And Future to read the full article.

Introducing: The Lebond Souto Moura - An Architect’s Take On The Classic Driver’s Watch Fratello
Mar 13, 2024

Introducing: The Lebond Souto Moura - An Architect’s Take On The Classic Driver’s Watch

Besides my passions for music and watches, I also greatly love architecture. It takes a unique talent and ability to create buildings that seem like they have an actual soul. But what if you combine architecture and watch design? Does that work? The answer came in the spring of last year. The Lebond Siza explored […] Visit Introducing: The Lebond Souto Moura - An Architect’s Take On The Classic Driver’s Watch to read the full article.

First Look – New American Indie Watchmaker Fleming Presents its First Watch, the Series 1 Launch Edition Monochrome
Mar 11, 2024

First Look – New American Indie Watchmaker Fleming Presents its First Watch, the Series 1 Launch Edition

The pandemic has opened the door to countless opportunities for aspiring entrepreneurs. Thomas Fleming, an avid American watch collector, saw his dream of starting his own independent watch brand take shape during this time. To make this project a reality, Fleming brought together an impressive cast of Swiss partners, including renowned independent watchmaker Jean-François Mojon […]

The Unusual Suspects: Curating A Watch Collection Outside Of The Obvious Fratello
Mar 11, 2024

The Unusual Suspects: Curating A Watch Collection Outside Of The Obvious

At Fratello, we love hypothetical collecting exercises, challenges like “What if I could spend 5K or 10K on a three-watch collection?” for instance. Today, I want to do one that isn’t limited by a specific budget or number of watches. Instead, I would like to simply stray off the beaten path and go for unusual […] Visit The Unusual Suspects: Curating A Watch Collection Outside Of The Obvious to read the full article.

Introducing The Latest Christopher Ward C65 Dune GMT - The Follow-Up To The Brilliant First Version Of This Traveler’s Watch Fratello
Christopher Ward C65 Dune GMT - Mar 6, 2024

Introducing The Latest Christopher Ward C65 Dune GMT - The Follow-Up To The Brilliant First Version Of This Traveler’s Watch

If you are a regular reader of Fratello, you might be aware of my love for the Christopher Ward C65 Dune GMT that came out last year. The black-dial limited edition of 200 pieces was one of my absolute favorites of 2023. It’s also a release that I unfortunately missed out on. However, the team […] Visit Introducing The Latest Christopher Ward C65 Dune GMT - The Follow-Up To The Brilliant First Version Of This Traveler’s Watch to read the full article.

Buy-In Required: Non-Watch Brands That Stand Tall - Hermès, Louis Vuitton, And Chanel Fratello
Louis Vuitton Mar 5, 2024

Buy-In Required: Non-Watch Brands That Stand Tall - Hermès, Louis Vuitton, And Chanel

Some people just can’t get enough. Enough of the right logo, that is. “Logo luxury” is still very much alive, no matter the attention “quiet luxury” received recently. Logos have a hypnotic allure to some people. People under the spell of the right monogram will want to buy into the brand badly, desiring everything with […] Visit Buy-In Required: Non-Watch Brands That Stand Tall - Hermès, Louis Vuitton, And Chanel to read the full article.

The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date blends old-school complications with new-school sports watch vibes Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Feb 29, 2024

The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date blends old-school complications with new-school sports watch vibes

This elevated take on the Overseas is the first retrograde display in a sports watch for this storied Swiss brand.The post The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date blends old-school complications with new-school sports watch vibes appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Industry News – Rolex Breaks the CHF 10 billion Barrier, And The Top 50 Swiss Watch Companies of 2023 According to Morgan Stanley Monochrome
Rolex Breaks Feb 29, 2024

Industry News – Rolex Breaks the CHF 10 billion Barrier, And The Top 50 Swiss Watch Companies of 2023 According to Morgan Stanley

While the growth for the luxury industry as a whole is expected to slow following months/years of sustained development, with macroeconomic and geopolitical headwinds and demand uncertainties in the US, Europe and China, the Swiss watch industry ended up 2023 as yet another record year, with exports up 7.6% compared to 2022, reaching their highest […]

Maurice de Mauriac Embraces Brutalism with the Pillow Watch Worn & Wound
Feb 21, 2024

Maurice de Mauriac Embraces Brutalism with the Pillow Watch

Maurice de Mauriac isn’t afraid to make a bold statement. And their latest release, the Pillow Watch, might be their boldest yet. Not because it’s overly-designed or flashy, but for the quiet confidence this collection possesses. The Pillow Watch is a set of three references (Black, Bronze, and Titanium), each with a cushion case design and a corresponding calf leather strap that showcases the exceptional craftsmanship and design philosophy of this Swiss brand. Drawing inspiration from the architectural movement of brutalism, the Pillow Watch possesses clean lines and a bold design. For those who love a cushion case, you can agree that it’s a design built on a bit of opposites: daring, but subtle; delicate; but strong. For a brand that has put out some pretty eye-catching designs lately, some might consider this a departure for Maurice de Mauriac; but I say it’s the opposite. The Pillow Watch is a natural evolution for the brand, eschewing the bells and whistles for something simple, timeless, and sophisticated. Coming in at 45mm, this is a watch with presence, made all the more so with its Fabian Schwaerzler-design dials. Designed with thick applications of Superluminova, it’s at once retro and modern. The minimalist dial, displaying only hours via large lume plots, underscores the brand’s commitment to restraint for this collection, ensuring the watch remains balanced in its design. The Pillow Watch runs on a La Joux-Perret G100 automatic movement, designed b...

A Whimsical Look at the LEGO Watch System Worn & Wound
Montblanc Ralph Lauren Tiffany & Feb 20, 2024

A Whimsical Look at the LEGO Watch System

There’s a storied history of non-watch companies making the foray into the watch world. Montblanc, Ralph Lauren, Tiffany & Co. Some of them are even quite good–the Hermès H08, for example, is simply stunning and unlike anything else on the market. But none of these forays into watchmaking is quite as quirky, quite as unexpected, or quite as downright amusing as the LEGO Watch System. I discovered the LEGO Watch System, and specifically those released in 2013 which after some research seem to be the best since LEGO launched the product in 1996, on January 28, National LEGO Day, as luck would have it, through a random recommended post on Instagram. The 2013 LEGO Watch System was produced for adults, unlike its predecessors–no Nexo Knights minifigures included with these. The designs ranged from zero LEGO design references–like a black and yellow dial with arabic numerals that just featured the LEGO logo–to those with subtle LEGO design cues–such as the models with two-stud LEGO pieces for indices–to models that wanted zero confusion about who made these watches–like the model that features a pirate skull and crossbones made out of LEGO bricks or the one that’s just a big LEGO minifig face in the middle of the dial. Uniting all of these disparate aesthetics is a modular design that lets you switch and swap parts. The bezels, straps or bracelets and their links are all interchangeable, giving owners increased customization over their timepieces. Powered by a...