Teddy Baldassarre
Leica Watches Brand Review: Can The Iconic Camera Maker Pull It Off?
Leica watches are gaining ground in the competitive luxury watch market, here we take a look at the legendary camera maker's horological leap.
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Teddy Baldassarre
Leica watches are gaining ground in the competitive luxury watch market, here we take a look at the legendary camera maker's horological leap.
Monochrome
Baltic Watches, the French indie brand founded by Etienne Malec in 2017, has transcended its status as a microbrand in less than ten years. Designed in Paris and powered by reliable, outsourced movements assembled in Besançon, France, Baltic’s success can be attributed to its retro-flavoured watches coupled with accessible prices. The flagship Aquascaphe Classic, a […]
Fratello
Panerai combines a high-tech carbon-composite case with familiar vintage-inspired details in the new Luminor Marina PAM01707. The watch uses the brand’s proprietary Carbotech material for its 44mm cushion case. Paired with an automatic movement and 300m water resistance, it remains every bit the capable tool watch expected from the Luminor Marina family. What makes this […] Visit An Ideal Blend Of Old And New: The Panerai Luminor Marina PAM01707 In Carbotech to read the full article.
Monochrome
Glashütte Original expands its SeaQ collection of dive watches with two limited editions created exclusively for the North American market. Named “Northern Tide”, the limited editions are based on the existing SeaQ and SeaQ Panorama Date, introducing an all-new turquoise dégradé dial. Aside from the new colourway, both models retain the design, movements and specifications […]
SJX Watches
One of the cult brands when it comes to affordable, 1970s dive watches, Doxa’s latest is a vintage remake with a twist: the Sub Army 200T for Hodinkee is modelled on a dive watch developed for the Swiss army’s elite divers in 1969, but scaled down to a wearable 39 mm, compared to the chunky 42.5 mm (or even 45 mm) of most Doxa dive watches. Doxa has long mined its short but rich history of watches for underwater professionals, most famous amongst them the fictional adventurer created by novelist Clive Cussler. The Sub Army turns to a mil spec watch made for the commando divers of a landlocked country, preserving the design but refining it in size and style. It’s a 250-piece limited edition that sticks to Doxa’s sweet spot in terms of pricing with a retail of US$2,000. Initial thoughts I’ve always liked Doxa’s retro dive watches, especially the signature, oversized Sub 300 with an orange dial. Most of them have an appealing, recognisable look that’s backed up by the brand’s history. That said, Doxa makes a lot of dive watch models, enough of them that I have a hard time keeping up. Fortunately, the Sub Army for Hodinkee stands out in both style and size. At 39 mm and under 11 mm high, this has an easily wearable case that’s amongst the smallest in the Doxa catalogue, but still in the cushion-shaped format that’s a must-have for a retro dive watch of this type. The dial design is unique to the “Army” model and evokes vintage military equipment withou...
Monochrome
Founded in 2017 by photographer Ming Thein and headquartered in Kuala Lumpur, Ming is a design-driven independent watch brand distinguished by a contemporary aesthetic in which minimalism, luminescence and layered construction all play defining roles. For the latest release, Ming strays from its usual course, turning to traditional craftsmanship for the dial of the new […]
Fratello
I will admit it: when Bianchet first launched quietly in 2017, the idea of another openworked tourbillon watch wasn’t overly intriguing. Then again, as a traditionalist, I tended to dismiss watches like this in the past. But, as they say, the past is the past. Now, I enjoy more theater in my timepieces. Painstaking finishing, […] Visit The Bianchet Rotondo UltraFino Rose Gold: A Stunning Take On Contrast to read the full article.
Monochrome
The Citizen Tsuyosa is one of the strongest contenders in the affordable automatic sports watch segment. Launched in 2022, the collection has steadily expanded with new sizes, colours and specifications, most recently gaining a more adventurous personality with the 100m water-resistant Tsuyosa Shore, equipped with a rotating bezel. Now, Citizen combines the sporty design of […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Breaking down the best octagonal watches on the market today, from entry-level options to luxury.
Time+Tide
What happens when a watch brand decides vintage isn’t the enemy — but a responsibility? In this fourth and final episode of season 1 of Vacheron Constantin: Inside the Archives, Andrew McUtchen, Justin Hast, and Vacheron Constantin Heritage Director Christian Selmoni go deep inside the world of restoration and Les Collectionneurs — Vacheron Constantin’s extraordinary … Continued
Teddy Baldassarre
The story of the Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5065a, one of the most iconic and influential neo-vintage luxury sports watches.
Monochrome
Lebois & Co, an old name revived by Tom van Wijlick, a Dutch native, has steadily built a collection of classically styled, vintage-character watches. Last year’s Heritage Small Seconds introduced a compact dress watch series inspired by the brand’s mid-century archives. Now, two new references are launching the Heritage Atelier collection: the Small Seconds Clous […]
Fratello
I always thought of Glashütte Original as a modest watch brand. However, the German watchmaker does indeed use its Vintage Collection to experiment with more than the usual black, silver, and blue dials. This is where the new Glashütte Original Sixties Chronograph Annual Edition comes in with its groovy purple dial. I even got to […] Visit Get Your Groove On With The Grape-Dial Glashütte Original Sixties Chronograph to read the full article.
Fratello
If you collect vintage Angelus watches or are simply interested in the brand, there are a handful of pieces you must hold in your hands. One is the mighty Angelus Chrono-Datoluxe. Another, some argue, is the Medical. The third place on my imaginary podium goes to the Tinkler. Sadly, all three are as rare as […] Visit What Dreams Are Made Of: The Angelus Tinkler 1958 Steel Quarter Repeater to read the full article.
Fratello
Today, we are looking at two spiritual competitors in the dive-watch-chronograph market — the Doxa Sub 200 T.Graph II and the Ollech & Wajs Astrochron. Both watches are beefy, tough options for those of us after a dive chronograph, but they have different quirks and design personalities. This article came about after spending considerable time […] Visit The Ollech & Wajs Astrochron Vs. The Doxa Sub 200 T.Graph II to read the full article.
Monochrome
Since its streamlined redesign in 2022, the Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance has become the independent watchmaking brand‘s signature expression of one of the rarest mechanical phenomena in watchmaking. Without altering the movement, later editions have offered variations in colour and materials used, from the Manufacture Green and Ice Blue models to the warm rose gold […]
Monochrome
Yema seems to be focused on combining its historic dive watch designs with more sophisticated mechanics, especially since the arrival of the manufacture CMM.20 micro-rotor calibre. Following the Navygraf Slim CMM.20 and the Navygraf Pearl CMM.20, the French brand now introduces a more specialised interpretation of its vintage-inspired diver. Made together with the French Marine […]
Teddy Baldassarre
A guide to the best survival watches on the market today, from entry-level to luxury picks that can tackle life's greatest challenges.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
A hands-on review of the vintage Luminox USAF Stealth Series 3400, a military-inspired quartz watch that has spent decades on one owner's wrist.
Monochrome
Speake Marin introduced the Ripples in 2022, and with it, the independent brand entered the crowded luxury sports watch category with its own, slightly eccentric creation. The rounded-square La City case, the strongly textured dial, and the small seconds at 1:30 made it instantly recognisable. Infinity Date, Dune Date, Ripples Skeleton and even a full […]
Fratello
IWC Schaffhausen has expanded its compact integrated-bracelet lineup with a striking new release — the Ingenieur Automatic 35 featuring a vibrant “Pool” dial (ref. IW324902). This fresh “aquatic” execution takes the mid-sized 35mm stainless steel platform (originally introduced to the modern collection as an ergonomic, vintage-inspired alternative to its 40mm sibling) and dresses it up […] Visit From Lab Coat To Swim Shorts: The IWC Ingenieur Automatic 35 “Pool” to read the full article.
Monochrome
Many of the overtly vintage design cues of Montblanc’s 1858 collection are inspired by Minerva’s military watches from the 1930s, renowned for their precision and legibility in extreme conditions. Promoted as rugged, reliable companions for mountaineering and outdoor adventures, the 1858 Geosphere combines its retro looks with a worldtimer featuring two rotating globes depicting the […]
Fratello
Today’s new watches are likely to please fans of fun, funky divers. That’s because Rowing Blazers is back with a brace of cool new Seiko 5 Sports Watches. Naturally, our friend Eric Wind of Wind Vintage has lent a hand in the design. Let’s have a look at these cool new numbers. It must be […] Visit We’re So Back! A Pair Of Seiko 5 Sports × Wind Vintage × Rowing Blazers Divers Arrives to read the full article.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Olive green joins the Oris Divers Date lineup: a 39mm, 200m ceramic-bezel diver with a vintage-military dial, priced at 2,450 CHF
Fratello
Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! Apologies for the late publishing time, but a baby and World Cup 2026 have us keeping odd hours. This week, we target a humorous but potentially dangerous subject. Misleading words when describing a watch, especially a vintage one, are rife within our hobby, so we attempt […] Visit Fratello On Air: These Are The Most Misleading Words In Watch Ads to read the full article.
Hodinkee
What We Know After a string of three successful collaborations, the trio of Seiko, NYC-based clothing brand Rowing Blazers, and Eric Wind of Wind Vintage is back after a long hiatus with its fourth set of creations. If you're thinking that the two new models might seem awfully familiar, you'd be right. They're essentially a continuation of one of the first models in the original Rowing Blazers Seiko collaboration, reference SRPG49. That "Rally Diver" from 2021 itself served as an homage to a vintage Rally Diver Seiko from the late sixties, a watch that Eric Wind credits as the first vintage watch he'd ever purchased. Now, five years later, the group is bringing forth two new versions of this Rally Diver Seiko 5 Sports watch, each numbered and limited to a generous 2,500 pieces, bringing the total for this launch to a pretty large 5,000 units. The blue Rally Diver, ref. SRPM19 continues the 42.5mm sizing of the 2021 edition, while the green dial comes in a smaller 38mm case size. The distinctive checkered aluminum insert on the unidirectional rotating bezel is rendered in silver and either bright blue or forest green, matching the color of the double-signed dial. While the handset is primarily brushed, the pointing half of the seconds hand is striped in red and white. Both models are delivered on a steel bracelet (yes, with that familiar stamped Seiko 5 clasp), and the green Rally Diver includes an additional blue nylon strap. In contrast, the blue Rally Diver includes an a...
Teddy Baldassarre
The latest to join the updated diver family, the Oris Divers Date green carries on the collection's hardworking specs and vintage charm.
Worn & Wound
In our over-saturated world of often austere dive watches and overwrought Explorer-likes, Studio Underd0g’s lineup is a continued breath of fresh, colorful air. The British brand’s signature style takes playful color schemes and theming, and applies them to rock-solid mechanical underpinnings to create a series of sporty timepieces that are instantly distinguishable from anything else on the market. Their 02SERIES of field watches, originally launched in 2023, has proven massively popular, with its “floating” numerals and deliciously bright seven-layer dials, topped off with a sapphire disc for depth effect. Joining that line is the GEN2 wave, which sees two new colorways, a slimmer case design, and some more mechanical tricks. The GEN2 is housed in a familiar 316L stainless steel case, slimmed down to 11.5mm in thickness, a 37.5mm diameter measurement, and a 18mm lug width. This makes it, deceptively, slightly bigger in diameter than the original 02SERIES watches, but noticeably thinner, giving it a lighter profile on the wrist despite the size difference. Inside beats the stalwart Sellita SW200-2 M manual-winding movement with hacking, though the power reserve has also been tinkered with, now offering 63 hours of off-the-wrist time before the hands stop. The two-part case construction, screw-down case back with jellyfish motif, and signed crown add touches of refinement to the otherwise fairly simple 02SSERIES GEN2 watches, and all come with a matching, colorway-...
Fratello
I have a form when it comes to writing about the IWC Mark XV. In fact, I previously called it my GADA watch of choice, praising the 38mm pilot’s watch for its balance, restraint, and everyday usability. The trouble with many vintage or neo-vintage timepieces, however, is that finding bracelets worthy of them can become […] Visit Forstner Brings Out Bracelets For The IWC Mark XV to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-weekly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Zenith A3630 Vintage Diver Here’s a rare gem to start us off this week, a vintage Zenith diver with original bracelet! This Zenith A3630 has a classically styled 38mm diver case in steel that looks to be unpolished. It does have some wear consistent with use and its age, but it does not look abused. The matte black dial looks excellent, with a contrasting white outer chapter ring and applied steel markers, and an unobtrusive date window at 4:30. The steel hands have large lume plots, and the hour hand has a nice big arrow tip for easy reading. The oversize crown is signed with the Zenith star symbol. The aluminum elapsed time bezel insert has some nice fading to it, but overall it’s in good shape. This piece comes with the original Gay Freres steel bracelet with a Zenith signed buckle. The Zenith automatic movement is clean and runs well per the seller. Great hard to find vintage diver! View auction here Heuer Autavia 1163 Vintage Chronograph Next up is another heavy hitter, a vintage Heuer Autavia 1163 chronograph. Wow, this beast is a real beauty. The 42mm steel cushion case is superb, unpolished with crisp edges and the original brushed finish. The black dial looks original an...
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