Hodinkee
Pre-Owned Picks: An All-Blue F.P. Journe, A Dressy Jaeger-LeCoultre, And An Underrated Olympic Diver From OMEGA
Five of our favorites in the HODINKEE Shop this week.
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Hodinkee
Five of our favorites in the HODINKEE Shop this week.
Time+Tide
Once upon a time, I applied for a very prestigious and selective watchmaking school here in the USA. Sadly, I did not make the cut, which was probably fair given that I do not have the steadiest hands. A silver lining to this story is that, after my time working as a watch specialist for … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Old School by Massena LAB x Luca Soprana appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
“How hard can owning and wearing a watch be? Well, you’re probably doing just fine to be honest, however it’s worth running you buy these little mistakes that a surprising number of watch enthusiasts make, just to be sure.
Quill & Pad
Our pals at The Watches TV went hands on with three of the unique timepieces on offer at the upcoming Only Watch 2021, which takes place on November 6, 2021. The unique watches featured are the F.P. Journe x Francis Ford Coppola FFC Blue, the Moser Streamliner Cylindrical Tourbillon Only Watch, and the Urwerk UR-102 Gaïa. Enjoy this rare treat!
Hodinkee
The daughter of astronaut Jerry Carr says she has a Movado that rewrites horological history.
Hodinkee
Bust out the Pizza Tracker and stay away from The Noid, it's Domino's Air King time.
Revolution
MB&F;’s landmark Legacy Machine Perpetual, the award-winning perpetual calendar created for MB&F; by Stephen McDonnell, takes on an ebullient new lease of life forged from lightweight and industrially resilient zirconium.
SJX Watches
One of the most distinctive Big Pilot’s Watches IWC has ever made is also one of the least known – and even perhaps the rarest model ever. Named after its creator, the Big Pilot’s Watch Edition “Markus Bühler” ref. 5003 was conceived by a then apprentice at IWC and subsequently made it into production, but as a tiny limited edition of only a dozen watches. The fundamentals of the Markus Bühler edition are simple – a gently-modified Unitas 6498 – but the look effectively conveys the purpose of design. With the “turbines” on the front and back, it is unmistakably a pilot’s watch. Initial thoughts When I first saw the Big Pilot Markus Bühler at the time of its launch in 2008, I thought it was silly. Despite being a limited edition, the Big Pilot “Turbine” was a downgrade from the standard Big Pilot’s Watch, going from the impressive, in-house cal. 5000 with a seven-day power reserve to a Unitas, albeit one with unusual, asymmetric striping on the bridges. But I was wrong. The simple yet effective concept – and its intrinsic aesthetic appeal – means the Markus Bühler has grown on me. I rank it amongst the most notable Big Pilots ever. Its appeal lies in the fact that the design is straightforward and symmetrical, with minimal modification to the original Big Pilot dial, save for the seconds. The dial design was the work of Gerd Plange, who’s been part of the IWC design team since 2001. During the period when he designed the “turbine” d...
Revolution
IWC’s Pilot’s Watch family has a long, rich tradition of precision military timekeepers dating back to 1936. From the iconic Mark XI to the revival in the 90s, aviation watches are defined by their legibility and reliability. That’s something that holds true today, whether you’re talking about a modern Top Gun chronograph or a hit limited edition like the Mark XVIII ‘Tribute to Mark XI’.
Revolution
Jaeger-LeCoutre introduces the Reverso Tribute Enamel Hidden Treasures Collection, featuring the works of three celebrated artists from the early days of Modern Art
Quill & Pad
That the tourbillon hasn't lost any of its appeal in this new era of wristwatches becomes crystal clear at Only Watch 2021. The mechanical ballet of the tourbillon remains mesmerizing and highly appreciated by watch connoisseurs. Here are five very special examples that you can bid on in the upcoming Only Watch auction taking place on November 6, 2021.
Time+Tide
Andrew’s note: Hi, and greetings from Neuchâtel, Switzerland! It’s not like I needed to prove that I’m here (after all, Zenith totally outed me on their Instagram with a super-fun interview with me and CEO Julien Tornare), but it’s more a case of being so stoked about it, I’m taking every chance to catch it … ContinuedThe post We are so besotted with our “Night Surfer” Zenith, and this video shows why (and it proves Andrew’s in 🇨🇭 too) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Casio’s latest G-SHOCK is a full titanium model inspired by powered suits of virtual reality.
SJX Watches
Most familiar with its metallic, forest-green dial, the modern-day Seiko Alpinist is a mid-range model that’s long been a crowd-favourite for its distinctive design and affordability. But today’s Alpinist with its distinctive twin crowns, a design introduced in 1998, couldn’t be further from the original Laurel Alpinist that debuted over half a century ago as a sports watch catered to mountaineers. The original Alpinist of 1959. Photo – Seiko Seiko has successful grown the current Alpinist line up to encompass a diversity of models – all of which feature alternating Arabic and arrowhead hour markers – but finally returned to the original design of 1959 with a quartet of vintage-inspired reissues that were launched earlier in the year. Amongst the four, the standout is the Prospex 1959 Alpinist Re-creation (ref. SJE085 or SBEN001), which is almost a like-for-like reissue (the other remakes are more loosely based on the original and officially known “Re-interpretations”). Most closely resembling the vintage original, the Alpinist Re-creation is the flagship model of the remakes, having a more elaborate execution as well as a higher-end movement. A cool “Bund” style strap with zigzag stitching evokes the strap on the 1959 original Initial thoughts The Alpinist Re-creation is an appealing little watch that’s almost straight out of a 1950s watch catalogue – save for the date window – thanks to the smallish 36.6 mm case and retro-style dial. It certa...
Deployant
For Throwback Sunday this week, we thought we'd take a look at the pre-owned watch market and recommend 6 discontinued of the best.
Quill & Pad
Gérald Genta's claim to eternal horological fame is closely connected to the rise of high-end stainless steel watches: he designed both the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (1972) and the Patek Philippe Nautilus (1976). While those two watches alone are enough to make Genta a legend, he did much, much more than that as Martin Green shares here.
Deployant
We like the look and feel of the watch; in particular for its larger size as compared to the DEFY 21. While it takes a larger wrist to pull off, the DEFY Extreme offers a compelling alternative in the skeleton sports watch category. As with the DEFY 21, the movement is ahead of most of its competitors, in technical feat and animation. The Extreme also offers multiple looks in one watch with a bracelet, rubber and velcro option interchangeable with a button quick release mechanism. Priced from US$18,000, the DEFY Extreme is a muscled up DEFY 21 for those who like a sporty chronograph with an extra heft.
Quill & Pad
To this day, when most people think about luxury watches they picture a wizened, white-haired man in a white lab coat bent over a workbench against the backdrop of snowy Alps busily filing away at watch parts. It’s a lovely picture, but not very representative of the modern – or even necessarily traditional – watch industry as Elizabeth Doerr explains here.
SJX Watches
Introduced in 2007 as Longines’ first remake of a vintage sports watch, the original Legend Diver was one of the earliest entries into the vintage-reissue segment. And it was a faithful recreation that managed to channel the look and feel of the vintage-original ref. 7042, though Longines subsequently added a date display to the model. In recent years, however, Longines begun to inject contemporary style into its remakes, including the Legend Diver, with last year’s 42 mm model in bronze with a striking, green fumé dial being a prime example. This year saw a continuation of the trend with a pair of new dials – in either blue or brown with a smoked finish – for the full-sized Legend Diver Watch in steel. Initial thoughts My first impression of the duo was simple: they are appealing in both design and colour. The design is clearly vintage; the remake stays true to the original. Its best feature is the inner rotating bezel adjusted via a second crown, which immediately sets it apart from typical dive watches that usually have a bulky external bezel. But important is the colour, which unlike the design it is a modern addition. Though fashionable today, gradient or dégradé dials are were actually a thing in the 1970s, though never found on the vintage original. The smoked dials lends the watch a youthful and contemporary feel. The blue is the most striking, though I personally prefer the warm and nostalgic brown dial that evokes a “tropical” dial. While t...
Time+Tide
If you follow me on Instagram, you may have seen I recently received my Kurono SEIJI watch. If you are unfamiliar with the watch you can check out my initial coverage here, although in the coming weeks I will be sure to do an owner’s review. For some context, the watch was initially launched with … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Zach gets het up about watch clasps… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
A collectors’ club based in the United Arab Emirates, Dubai Watch Club recently announced the latest special edition for its members. Based on the largest version of the Cartier wristwatch launched last year, the Santos-Dumont Extra-Large “Dubai Watch Club” is a distinctive new take on the classic design. Featuring a salmon dial inspired by the Santos-Dumont 90th Anniversary limited edition of 1994, the Dubai Watch Club version features Eastern Arabic hour numerals as is tradition for special editions made for the region. Initial thoughts A large but elegant watch, the Santos-Dumont XL is appealing in its original form, albeit looking very much like a classical Cartier. The Dubai Watch Club edition injects novelty into the design without doing too much. In fact, the only changes to the watch are the dial colour and hands, although Breguet hands were historically found on many Cartier models. But the best feature of the dial is the colour of the numerals, which are rendered in a dark red that was meant to mimic Cartier’s house colour. Notably, red numerals were traditionally found only on platinum watches, while the Dubai Watch Club edition is steel. The case material means the special edition is an easily affordable US$7,500, but that’s a moot point as the watch is available only to members of Dubai Watch Club. Dubai style Founded by local collector Adel Al Rahmani, Dubai Watch Club has some 120 members in its ranks. The club has commissioned a handful of speci...
Deployant
We take a comprehensive first look at the new Louis Moiner Space Revolution. A watch which is currently a candidate at the category of “Tourbillon” at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) 2021. Based on one to one discussions with Jean-Marie Schaller, owner and creative director of Louis Moinet, using press release photographs. FirstRead More
SJX Watches
A model often overshadowed by “hot” watches or more complicated ones, the ref. 5905 combines a pair of useful complications into an everyday dress watch, but it was previously available only in a conservative, luxe guise of precious metal case and classical dial colours. But now Patek Philippe is changing up the feel of the model with the Annual Calendar Chronograph ref. 5905/1A. Now cased in steel and matched with a three-link bracelet inspired by the Aquanaut, the ref. 5905/1A retains the sectored dial found on earlier versions of the model, but now in olive green – the same shade found on the Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-014. Initial thoughts Patek Philippe’s opening act for the year was the Nautilus ref. 5711/1A with an olive-green dial (and with the option of a diamond-set bezel), an immediate hit that has become one of the most sought-after watches of 2021. The Nautilus was already hot, as all sports watches with integrated bracelets are, but bestowing the most fashionable colour of the year on the “final edition” of the Nautilus ref. 5711 escalated its desirability to the stratosphere. That bodes well for the ref. 5905/1A. The ref. 5905/1A will be instantly attractive since it caters to current tastes. Its inevitable desirability will overshadow its intrinsic qualities (and also the accessible price), which is a bit of a shame. While intriguing it is not, the ref. 5905/1A is a good-looking watch, and one executed in a practical material while offering usef...
SJX Watches
A variant of a longstanding reference in the Patek Philippe catalogue, the Split-Seconds Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5204R-011 is only set apart by its slate-grey dial, but unusual nonetheless – it’s the sole model in Patek Philippe’s Grand Complications collection in that colour, where the predominant colours are silver, blue, black, and a splash of salmon. Initial thoughts Historically the split-seconds seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar in gold was often paired with a silver dial. But as the new World Time Chronograph ref. 5930P illustrates, Patek Philippe is continuing to add new colours into the regular catalogue, instead of reserving them for limited editions or special orders. The rose gold version of this reference is already available with a black dial as the ref. 5204/1R, but matched with a weighty and flashy rose gold bracelet. The new ref. 5204R in contrast is a relatively low key watch, which will appeal to anyone who wants a “Grand Complication” that’s, well, low key. The colour palette of the new ref. 5204R is a familiar because it works well. This makes the ref. 5204R the most appealing version of the model currently available; it is certainly more striking than the conservative model with a silver dial. That said, I do wish Patek had taken the opportunity to redesign the dial slightly, perhaps with slimmer hands and a moon phase display on the top of the lower register. As it is, the moon phase display leaves the dial bottom he...
Quill & Pad
A. Lange & Söhne sponsors the world's most luxurious vintage car event, the Villa d’Este Concorso d’Eleganza, and has done so since 2012. The event has taken place every year (except one) on gorgeous Lake Como in Italy since 1929. Elizabeth Doerr went to the 2021 event and shares her impressions of the elegant event with us here.
Hodinkee
A Cold War-era champion of frugal and functional fun.
Revolution
Fortis gets in touch with nature on their new Marinemaster line of tool watches. Made of recycled steel and inspired by the natural outdoors. This is also brand’s second watch with the Werk 11 movement, in collaboration with Kenissi movement manufacture.
Revolution
When it was first released in 1993, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore was called The Beast. A bold and seemingly brutish take on its famous older sibling, the Offshore seemed destined to live up to its name. But it didn’t take long for people to find beauty in the beast. By the 2000s the Offshore had found its place in the world - comfortably strapped onto the wrists of superstars like Schwarzenegger and rap superstars like Jay-Z.
Revolution
Monaco Legend Group’s 88 Cartier sale in 2021, is dedicated to selling arguably the most significant private collection of Cartier timepieces
Quill & Pad
In this video, The Watches TV’s Marc André Deschoux goes through Bovet’s latest watches from Geneva Watch Days 2021. These include the beautiful new turquoise collection featuring the 19Thirty, Récital 23, Récital 27 triple time zone, Monsieur Bovet, and the Virtuoso VIII Chapter Two Reimagined in pink gold.
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