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Hans Gruber in Die Hard wears a Cartier Tank better than anyone else Time+Tide
Cartier Tank better than anyone Sep 3, 2022

Hans Gruber in Die Hard wears a Cartier Tank better than anyone else

The Cartier Tank is hardly a watch lacking in high-profile endorsements. From Andy Warhol to Mohammad Ali and Fred Astaire to Steve McQueen, many great men have fallen for its square-jawed linearity, Roman numerals and cabochon crown that looks like an erotic police siren. But, let’s face it, the bad guys are always more interesting. … ContinuedThe post Hans Gruber in Die Hard wears a Cartier Tank better than anyone else appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar “Tutorial” SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Feb 15, 2022

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar “Tutorial”

Already “fool-proof” as complicated watches go, the H. Moser & Cie. perpetual calendar has just been given a stylish facelift, resulting in a pair of watches bearing the signature smoked blue dial. The first of the two is the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Funky Blue that is almost identical to its predecessor but even more minimalist with a barely-there logo in transparent lacquer. But the headline model is surely the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tutorial, which has a whimsical user guide on the dial. The Tutorial (left) and the Funky Blue Initial thoughts I like the Tutorial because it has an ingenious movement and a sense of humour. Though the dial is the only element that’s different with the Tutorial, it is certainly an improved watch than its predecessor, simply because it perfectly encapsulates the quirkiness that defines H. Moser & Cie. The dial is so obvious that the watch really does stand out – it is certainly s a conversation piece. But it is the juxtaposition of the tongue-in-cheek schematics on the dial and the serious mechanics underneath gives the watch an amusing, original character. Perhaps only the Schaffhausen-based watchmaker that can pull this off without looking silly, given its technical competence and humorous spirit. That said, the “cheat sheet” dial is entirely practical, as it helps with both adjusting and reading the calendar – somewhat ironically since the Moser perpetual calendar mechanism is one of the most fuss free on the ma...

Succession finale: The most significant watches from the hit show Time+Tide
Dec 14, 2021

Succession finale: The most significant watches from the hit show

Are you reeling from the finale of Succession, too? Over the nine episodes of the third season, the HBO show has consistently upped the dramatic ante, combining Machiavellian politics with sibling rivalry and filial warfare. Sure, that may just sound like the ingredients of your average family Christmas. But part of Succession’s giddy appeal – … ContinuedThe post Succession finale: The most significant watches from the hit show appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS ON: Grand Seiko’s tool-tastic steel bezel GMTs Time+Tide
Grand Seiko s tool-tastic steel bezel Nov 24, 2021

HANDS ON: Grand Seiko’s tool-tastic steel bezel GMTs

I always find it interesting how certain releases seem to fly under the radar. We all remember that watch that grabbed our attention but barely got a peep from the community. Maybe it’s bad timing or just bad luck but whatever the case may be, some watches just don’t make headlines. However, it tends to … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: Grand Seiko’s tool-tastic steel bezel GMTs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Exhibition: The Cartier Tank Experience Singapore SJX Watches
Cartier Tank Experience Singapore Nov 16, 2021

Exhibition: The Cartier Tank Experience Singapore

An easily digestible journey through the history of Cartier’s most famous rectangular watch, the Cartier Tank Experience is now open in Singapore until December 5, 2021. Taking place at Malmaison by The Hour Glass, the Cartier Tank Experience explores the history of the Tank with a timeline that rings the exhibition. Punctuatated by famous faces enraging from artist Andy Warhol to First World War hero General John Pershing, the Tank timeline touches on the bewildering variety of models over its century-long history, including the Tank Cintree and lesser known variants like the Tank Normale. And it is also a showcase of the jeweller’s current line up of Tanks, including the bestselling Tank Must with solid-colour dials and the Prive Tank Cintree (which is perhaps under-appreciated because it’s not a limited edition). The exhibition also includes a “strap bar”, basically a section where custom straps for the Tank can be ordered – and the Tank wristwatch itself personalised. Visitors can choose from alligator hide in 16 colours, and also specify the stitching, lining, and even a personalised inscription on the lining. Alongside the custom strap (and included in its cost), Cartier is also offering the option of engraving the owner’s initials on the case back of his or her Tank. The strap bar Exhibition details Open from now till December 5, 2021 Monday to Saturday 11.30 am-7.30 pm Sunday and public holidays 11.30 am-7.00 pm Visitors should register in advance for...

Peren Introduces the Nera Rogue Diver SJX Watches
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms which Oct 19, 2021

Peren Introduces the Nera Rogue Diver

Founded by Romanian native Andy Bica-Popi but based in Switzerland, Peren styles itself as a Transylvanian watch brand. The micro-brand’s offerings are characterised by a clean, functional aesthetic, a style encapsulated by the Nera Rogue. Peren’s first dive watch is loosely inspired by the Tornek-Rayville TR-900, a rare and obscure dive watch that’s actually a rebadged Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, which the Swiss watchmaker made for its American agent who in turn supplied them to the US Navy in the 1960s. Utilitarian and cleanly styled, the Nera Rogue takes after the TR-900, which is reflected in the hour markers and bezel, but is evidently not a vintage remake. And in a nod to today’s fashionable colour, the Nera Rogue has dark-green dial. Initial thoughts Granted, the population of micro-brands is ever increasing, especially those making dive watches, but a handful are both interesting and affordable enough to be worth a second look. Since micro-brands typically rely on the same few outsourced movements (often Sellita or Miyota), it falls to design to distinguish one from another. And Peren manages to set itself apart – albeit only on the second try. The Nera Rogue is actually Peren’s second go at the design. What’s really new on the Nera Rogue is actually its bezel – which is the primary element inspired by the TR-900 – while the rest of the watch is actually identical to a past model known as the Nera that was equipped with a smooth, unmarked bezel, m...

“I lost my grandad’s Rolex. Can I replace it with a knock-off?” Time+Tide
Rolex Jul 22, 2021

“I lost my grandad’s Rolex. Can I replace it with a knock-off?”

“Moral Money” is a page in the British newspaper, The Telegraph that’s a bit like an Agony Aunt for the financially vexed. Readers submit their monetary dilemmas and then experts weigh up their best course of action. This week’s head-scratcher was a particularly curly one. A desperate reader called KB from Manchester wrote in to … ContinuedThe post “I lost my grandad’s Rolex. Can I replace it with a knock-off?” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Review: new Tudor Black Bay Ceramic Deployant
Tudor Black Bay Ceramic DEPLOYANT Jun 26, 2021

Review: new Tudor Black Bay Ceramic

Tudor adds a new material to its growing list of Black Bay variants, with the new Black Bay Ceramic. This is the first time a full ceramic case is used on a regular production model, succeeding an earlier Only Watch 2019 all black model. Other notable changes include METAS certification, an anti-magnetic movement, and a two-liner dial instead of the usual Rolex style 'paragraph'.

Breitling Introduces the Super Chronomat SJX Watches
Breitling Introduces May 6, 2021

Breitling Introduces the Super Chronomat

Breitling revived the classic 1984 version of the Chronomat just last year, right down to the signature Rouleaux bracelet. Now the brand ups the ante with the introduction of the Super Chronomat, a larger, 44 mm watch that’s available in two guises: the B01 chronograph and more interestingly, a chronograph combined with the “1461” four-year calendar that was once a signature complication for Breitling. Initial thoughts At a time where brands are downsizing their best known designs, the Super Chronomat bucks the trend. Bigger and bolder than its smaller sibling, the Chronomat “is a watch you’ll get noticed in without having to worry about it” says Breitling chief executive Georges Kern in the launch announcement. I’m inclined to agree – the new Super Chronomat definitely makes a statement. With the distinctive Rouleaux bracelet and oversized pushers, the Super Chronomat possesses a temerity in design that is reminiscent of Breitling in the mid 2000s when the brand favoured excessive sizing, but packaged in a modern manner. That said, the new Super Chronomat collection has a cool 1980s vibe as well, particularly with the UTC module that’s an option on the Super Chronomat B01. The black dial Super Chronomat B01 44, with a UTC module in the bracelet Then there’s the Super Chronomat 44 Four-Year Calendar, which features a semi-perpetual calendar. Formerly the flagship complication for Breitling, the calendar is known as the 1461 after the number of days in...

Breitling Revives the Hand-Wind Split-Seconds Chronograph SJX Watches
Breitling Revives Apr 6, 2021

Breitling Revives the Hand-Wind Split-Seconds Chronograph

Best known for its chronographs – especially those for pilots – Breitling now ups the ante with the Premier Heritage Duograph that just debuted alongside the new Premier Heritage chronographs. Named after the split-seconds chronograph Breitling produced during the 1940s to 1960s, the new Duograph is Breitling’s first hand-wind split-seconds chronograph powered by an in-house movement (it did debut an automatic split-seconds in 2017). Capable of recording two elapsed time simultaneously, the split-seconds is also known as a rattrapante – derived from rattraper, French for “catching up” – and was historically Breitling’s most expensive chronograph due to its complexity. The B15 in the new Duograph simplifies the construction of the split-seconds mechanism, resulting in a surprisingly affordable watch, with the steel version priced at about US$10,000. Initial thoughts Alongside with the release of the Datora, the Duograph is proof that Breitling is inching towards more complicated chronographs, which is a good progression for the brand. Breitling has a storied history with chronographs, and the Duograph is a return to form for a brand that was put back on track when Georges Kern, previously the chief executive of IWC, took the wheel and set a new course. The Premier B15 Duograph in steel It is important to note that the rattrapante is a challenge to do well, which is why few brands offer the complication, while those that do often price the split-seconds ...

Breitling Introduces the Superocean Heritage ’57 “Rainbow” – Again SJX Watches
Breitling Introduces May 20, 2020

Breitling Introduces the Superocean Heritage ’57 “Rainbow” – Again

Just in April this year, Breitling unveiled the Breitling Superocean Heritage ’57 Rainbow, a limited edition of just 250 pieces that it sold out within a few hours according to Breitling chief executive Georges Kern. With the presses for the 250 barely cool, Breitling has announced another rainbow-theme diver, the Superocean Heritage ’57 Limited Edition II. This time, the limited edition is 1,000 pieces – but with a charitable twist: 500,000 Swiss francs from the sale of the new edition will go to charities that support healthcare workers. The bulk of the sum has already been donated, split evenly amongst six charities in six countries that are amongst the hardest hit by the COVID-19 pandemic. Initial thoughts Issuing an almost-identical edition after the initial home run is not cool. It feels a bit too blatant. That said, it is substantially redeemed by the generous donation, which is equivalent to about 10% of gross revenue from the new “Rainbow II”. It is encouraging to see watchmakers leverage on their brand equity to aid relief efforts. As for the watch itself, the Rainbow II is actually a better looking watch. While the first edition had had a black dial and bezel, the new edition employs a blue dial and bezel that I find to be even more striking. The primary attraction is of course the rainbow-graduated hour markers that inject a playful element into what’s otherwise a serious-looking retro dive watch. While the rainbow markers may be divisive – I lo...

Breaking News: Bulgari Exits Baselworld 2020 SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Feb 11, 2020

Breaking News: Bulgari Exits Baselworld 2020

Barely a month after the inaugural LVMH Watch Week in Dubai, Bulgari has announced it is out of Baselworld 2020, citing the “Coronavirus pandemic”. Instead, Bulgari will present its products at roadshows in key markets, where amongst other things it will unveil a new record-setting ultra-thin watch. In the Bulgari announcement of its exit, chief executive Jean-Christophe Babin was careful to note that the jeweller might return to the event, stating “we remain open for 2021 onwards to continue with Baselworld”, with a decision due to be made by June 2020. The Roman jeweller is the biggest revenue earner amongst the LVMH watch and jewellery brands, which also includes watchmakers Hublot, TAG Heuer, and Zenith. All four already showed most of their new products for the year in Dubai, though Bulgari is the only one to depart Baselworld. Sunny and free of the flu in Dubai In contrast, the three watch brands of LVMH will be staying put. In a press release swiftly put out by Baselworld after Bulgari’s departure, LVMH watch division president Stéphane Bianchi stated: “We believe in the importance of a major event for the Swiss watch industry and look forward to a successful fair, both in terms of image and sales, for our three Maisons.” The divergence between Bulgari and the LVMH watch division gives credence to talk within the industry that a keen rivalry has developed between Messrs Babin and Bianchi, who joined LVMH in 2018 after a successful stint running Fre...

Level up your watch photography with @MracekProductions Time+Tide
Aug 25, 2019

Level up your watch photography with @MracekProductions

Editor’s note: Being a pilot who’s into watches is already cool enough, but when you add in some seriously serious photography skills, that’s the whole ballgame. If you need some watch photography inspiration, this is it. Here’s a story from a while back when Andy caught up with Dale Mracek of @MracekProductions … Hi Dale, … ContinuedThe post Level up your watch photography with @MracekProductions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

How to find the perfect barn find watch, according to @barnfindwatches (hint, it take time) Time+Tide
Longines Weems Apr 28, 2019

How to find the perfect barn find watch, according to @barnfindwatches (hint, it take time)

Editor’s note: We originally ran Andy’s interview with John a few years back, but seeing a spectacular Longines Weems that was awarded to a Submarine School captain in 1943 reminded us of just how cool this guy and his collection is – well worth a second look.  John, AKA @barnfindwatches, is a family man and … ContinuedThe post How to find the perfect barn find watch, according to @barnfindwatches (hint, it take time) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Are you following these 5 watch loving celebs on Instagram? You should be… Time+Tide
Apr 2, 2019

Are you following these 5 watch loving celebs on Instagram? You should be…

Editor’s note: Last year, Andy Green did what he does, and had an intense Instagram browsing session to come up with this list of five celebs who are more likely than most to rock some serious wrist hardware. Given John Mayer’s recent redux of his Hodinkee Talk Watches piece, we thought the time was ripe … ContinuedThe post Are you following these 5 watch loving celebs on Instagram? You should be… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Glimmering through the darkness – Moser’s Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept in red gold Time+Tide
Jan 8, 2019

HANDS-ON: Glimmering through the darkness – Moser’s Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept in red gold

There is absolutely zero doubt that Moser know their way around a fine dial. Their fumé is hypnotic perfection at its best. Last year the brand upped the ante with their conceptual perpetual with impossibly black Vantablack dial. Well, if this well of blackness (which is a wonder on the wrist) leaves you as cold … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Glimmering through the darkness – Moser’s Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept in red gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

LIST: 9 things you could buy instead of an H. Moser & Cie Pioneer in steel for the same money Time+Tide
H. Moser & Cie Pioneer May 20, 2018

LIST: 9 things you could buy instead of an H. Moser & Cie Pioneer in steel for the same money

Full disclosure. Earlier this year I bought an H. Moser & Cie Pioneer in steel with a blue dial. So the brand’s recent anti-campaign called ‘The Pioneer Chronicles’, which is, in actuality, as much about calling B.S on Swiss watch marketing departments as it is about the watch itself, was well and truly after the … ContinuedThe post LIST: 9 things you could buy instead of an H. Moser & Cie Pioneer in steel for the same money appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

EDITOR’S PICK: The origins of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Editor’s note Earlier May 8, 2018

EDITOR’S PICK: The origins of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris

Editor’s note: Earlier this week we ran a video that looked at Jaeger-LeCoultre’s new Polaris collection. While this video was being put together I found myself referring back to Andy’s article from earlier this year, which looked at the very interesting Polaris backstory. So here it is again, the story behind the Polaris. And, yes, … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: The origins of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WHO TO FOLLOW: @TheKirkland (Jeremy Kirkland of Blamo!) Time+Tide
Apr 14, 2018

WHO TO FOLLOW: @TheKirkland (Jeremy Kirkland of Blamo!)

Editors note: This week’s Who To Follow is the result of a mild obsession Andy and I had with the Blamo! podcast, which, if you’re at all interested in the world of fashion, style and luxury, is jam-packed full of gold moments and on-point insight. Given that we’ve tapped out the first three seasons, we’re … ContinuedThe post WHO TO FOLLOW: @TheKirkland (Jeremy Kirkland of Blamo!) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

LIST: 5 watches we’d love to see – our Baselworld 2018 predictions Time+Tide
Brew coffee not beer Mar 2, 2018

LIST: 5 watches we’d love to see – our Baselworld 2018 predictions

Last year, Andy and I put together a fun little speculative list on heritage reissues we’d like to see in 2018. It was a fun story, so we thought we’d revisit it - with a Basel twist. We sat down over some cold brew (coffee, not beer) and hashed out our wish list of Basel releases, … ContinuedThe post LIST: 5 watches we’d love to see – our Baselworld 2018 predictions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: 5 standout Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris watches from SIHH 2018 Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris watches from SIHH Feb 27, 2018

VIDEO: 5 standout Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris watches from SIHH 2018

One of the strongest, all-round collections of SIHH was, without a doubt, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris. Coming off a strong 2017 lineup, JLC hit all the right notes with their brand new Polaris collection. While this five-strong family of watches is clearly influenced by the Polaris of yore (for more on that, check out Andy’s look … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: 5 standout Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris watches from SIHH 2018 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

LIST: The 11 best watch photos we took this year … according to the man who took them Time+Tide
Dec 15, 2017

LIST: The 11 best watch photos we took this year … according to the man who took them

If you’re a regular reader of Time+Tide there’s a chance you’ve noticed my name, along with those of Andrew McUtchen, Andy Green, Sandra Lane, Cameron Wong and Melissa Pearce. After all, we’re the people writing the stories and voicing the videos that we publish. But beyond the byline there’s a small host of people who … ContinuedThe post LIST: The 11 best watch photos we took this year … according to the man who took them appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WHY I BOUGHT: The 2017 Rolex Sea-Dweller ref. 126600 Time+Tide
Richard Mille Nov 3, 2017

WHY I BOUGHT: The 2017 Rolex Sea-Dweller ref. 126600

Andy Zhang is among Australia’s most high-profile collectors - and highly active on social media. His pieces tend to inhabit the top end of town, and statements such as “I thought I’d wear Richard Mille for life” should not surprise. There are some horological heavyweights appearing on his Instagram account, daily. Which was where we noticed the … ContinuedThe post WHY I BOUGHT: The 2017 Rolex Sea-Dweller ref. 126600 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WHO TO FOLLOW: @gazman70k Time+Tide
Oct 14, 2017

WHO TO FOLLOW: @gazman70k

In this extra long edition of Who to Follow, Andy speaks to the exceptionally well-dressed Gary about life, work, finding the right watch, and how to dress your best. NAME:                                   Gary Tok OCCUPATION:                    Travelling salesman and part-time author HANDLE:                               @gazman70k FOLLOWERS:                     5.1k LOCATION:                         Hong … ContinuedThe post WHO TO FOLLOW: @gazman70k appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WHO TO FOLLOW: @A_Zhangerator Time+Tide
Sep 9, 2017

WHO TO FOLLOW: @A_Zhangerator

During the day, Andy is a sharp-dressed businessman, but come sundown he’s a gym-loving, whisky-drinking major watch nerd. Although he loves watches of all shapes and sizes, he has a particular penchant for one specific brand… NAME: Andy Zhang OCCUPATION: Businessman & Watch Nerd HANDLE: @A_Zhangerator FOLLOWERS: 17.5k LOCATION: SYD, AU Hey Andy, how do you … ContinuedThe post WHO TO FOLLOW: @A_Zhangerator appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.