Deployant
Review: Horage Autark 10 Years Limited Edition
We review the Horage Autark 10 Years Limited Edition, a watch that was created to commemorate the tenth anniversary of the brand's first in-house movement.
Results for Equation of Time
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Deployant
SJX Watches
Hands-On: TAG Heuer Only Watch Carbon Monaco
A homage to famed Monaco “Dark Lord”, the TAG Heuer Only Watch Carbon Monaco is unique for utilising carbon, or more specifically carbon composites, in almost every aspect of the watch – dial, case, and even the hairspring is carbon. Plus it has a specially finished movement that’s visible through the an extra-wide sapphire case back. Initial thoughts The vintage “Dark Lord” is all-black version of the Monaco that’s one of the most desirable of vintage Heuers. It was something of an experimental creation with only a few dozen were made, or perhaps even a hundred depending on the source. One of the first all-black watches, the “Dark Lord” had a powder-coated case like many early black-coated watches. Consequently, the “Dark Lord” case was fragile and few have survived in pristine condition, explaining its rarity and value, as well as why it’s the inspiration for the Carbon Monaco. A vintage “Dark Lord” ref. 740.303N The pleasing black, orange, and cream palette of the Carbon Monaco instantly evoke the “Dark Lord”. And at a distance, the Carbon Monaco even has something of a vintage flavour. But up close it is evidently a modern watch in both style and substance. Unlike the “Dark Lord”, the Carbon Monaco is fabricated from a material that’s naturally black, or at least a dark grey. The carbon composite case has an indelible finish, while also being extremely lightweight. The modern material, along with the geometrically open-worked ...
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Breguet Type XX Only Watch 2021
The upcoming Only Watch auction is an impressive catalogue of 53 one-off timepieces, a good number of which – more than a quarter of the total – are chronographs. Among the dozen chronographs, a couple caught my eye. One is the Breguet Type XX Only Watch 2021. It’s essentially an evolution of the Breguet Type 20 created for Only Watch 2019, simple in design and execution but attractive in that simplicity. The Breguet Type XX Only Watch 2021 Initial thoughts Like another notable chronograph in the sale, the TAG Heuer Monaco, the Type XX is reinterpretation of an iconic model of the brand. But the Type XX Only Watch 2021 is a nostalgic reinterpretation with a chocolate-brown dial that evokes the aged, “tropical” effect found on vintage examples. That said, the vintage styling is its only weakness. The Type XX is almost identical to the Type 20 Only Watch 2019 – right down to the strap – though the point can be made that the two make a perfect pair. The Type XX (left), and Type 20 They are each inspired by historical aviator’s watches made for the military and civilian markets respectively (the vintage Type XX was marketed to civilians, while the Type 20 was supplied to the French military). So this year’s Type XX should go home with the owner of the Type 20 from 2019. Almost a doppelgänger – the Type 20 Only Watch 2019 Notably, the Type XX is powered by a vintage movement, though one that is from a later period from an actual vintage Type XX. Still, giv...
Revolution
Why the M.A.D.1 Pink Dial Project Skyrocketed at #ThePinkDialProject
Max Büsser founder of MB&F; and the M.A.D Gallery along with Wei Koh founder of Revolution and The Rake try to make sense of how and why the M.A.D.1 Pink Dial Project unique piece, created for #ThePinkDialProject shattered all expectations.
Time+Tide
Comparing the blues – our DOXA SUB 600T ‘pacific’ vs the Tudor Black Bay 58
The sun is beating down and the swell is roaring along Sydney’s beaches as my family gets ready to partake in a daily ritual. Even though we don’t live together, we often meet up by the shoreline and hop in the Pacific Ocean together for a plunge. Today, on my dad’s wrist is the new … ContinuedThe post Comparing the blues – our DOXA SUB 600T ‘pacific’ vs the Tudor Black Bay 58 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
De Bethune Dream Watch 5 Maestri’Art Cempasúchil: Celebrating Mexico, Art, And The Dearly Departed – Reprise
De Bethune's Dream Watch 5 is more a beautifully sculptured piece of jewelry than a wristwatch, and its organic shape looks fantastic from every angle. The latest Dream Watch 5 Maestri’Art Cempasúchil honors and celebrates Mexico's Day of the Dead with a colorful, exquisitely engraved case that is also a metallurgic wonder. Horological art doesn't get better than this!
Revolution
About the Chronomaster Revival A3818 “Cover Girl” Unique Piece
Zenith CEO, Julien Tornare and Head of Products, Romain Marietta on the Chronomaster Revival A3818 “Cover Girl” Unique Piece and why the brand decided to donate to #ThePinkdialProject.
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Patek Philippe Complicated Desk Clock “Only Watch” Ref. 27001M-001
Having set the record for the most expensive watch ever when the Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A sold for CHF31 million at Only Watch 2019, Patek Philippe has created something entirely different for the 2021 instalment of the charity auction. The Geneva watchmaker’s entry for Only Watch 2021 is the Complicated Desk Clock ref. 27001M-001, a tabletop timepiece inspired by a pair of historical clocks made in the 1920s for prominent American collectors. The front of the clock opens to reveal the pushers for adjustment as well as winding and setting sockets Initial thoughts While Patek Philippe’s past creations for Only Watch were unique variants of existing models, the ref. 27001M desk clock is a unique model. It also claims several “firsts”. The ref. 27001M is the only example of this reference ever created to date – and the first timepiece to be equipped with this movement – and also the first clock Patek Philippe has contributed to Only Watch. This makes the ref. 27001M truly unique against all of Patek Philippe’s diverse repertoire. The inscription on the inside of the lid Very much classical luxury in style, the ref. 27001M is an appealing timepiece. A couple of details could have been done better or removed altogether, like “The Only One” on the lower edge, but it is still a good looking object. At the same time, it is mechanically interesting, since the movement is not only a 31-day calibre but also being used for the first time by Patek Philippe. Thoug...
Quill & Pad
Chopard L.U.C Full Strike Día De Los Muertos: A Watch To Die For
Creating a watch like the Chopard L.U.C Full Strike Día de los Muertos is walking a thin line, but it perfectly demonstrates how whimsical haute horlogerie can become. It is the eye for detail and the execution of those details that make the difference. Happy Halloween!
Deployant
Quick takes: new Breitling Premier B15 Duograph 42
The Breitling Premier B15 Duograph is Breitling’s take on a split second chronograph with a center monopusher. Featuring rectangular chronograph pushers and Arabic numerals, the heritage-revived Premier Duograph displays a variety of details such as grooves on the case-sides, open sapphire casebacks and syringe hands. The Duograph comes in stainless steel with a blue dial or in 18k red gold with a black dial.
SJX Watches
In-Depth: The Longines Observatory Chronometer Cal. 360
In the field of precision timekeeping, one inevitably encounters Longines with its multi-facetted and remarkably rich history. The unwavering persistence of the firm’s celebrated régleurs and its long lineage of in-house chronometer calibres fostered Longines’ reputation for excellence in precision timekeeping, far beyond the borders of Switzerland. The Saint Imier-based manufacturer ventured into precision chronometry as early as 1888, amidst the dawn of observatory chronometer competitions in Switzerland, when its cal. 21.59/60-based chronometer obtained an observatory-issued Bulletin de Marche, or rate certificate. And after almost a century of steadfast participation in prestigious chronometry trials, the last Longines timepiece subject to observatory-governed testing, a cal. 262 based chronograph (movement no. 14’701’394), received its certificate in 1972. The Neuchâtel observatory announced its first chronometer contest on December 5, 1865. Eight decades later this Longines advertisement portrayed the observatory chronometer contests as an uphill battle, referencing the record of N=5.00 obtained by the wristwatch-sized cal. 15.68Z in 1945 at Neuchâtel. Towards the end of the 1950s, a pure-bred competition calibre named the cal. 360 became Longines’ final masterpiece in the hard-fought race for glory in precision. A proven workhorse that won countless prizes and accolades at both the Neuchâtel and Geneva observatory competitions, the cal. 360 was a pu...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Girard Perregaux Aston Martin Laureato Chronograph has a dial that dazzles
It’s one thing to salivate over pictures and Instagram posts, but hands up who remembers the first time they were fortunate enough to set eyes on a Laureato in real life? I do, and it was love at first sight. The month was January, the year was 2017, the time zone was Swiss and the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Girard Perregaux Aston Martin Laureato Chronograph has a dial that dazzles appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
About the Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Pink Dial Project, R32128102
CEO of Rado, Adrian Bosshard on the Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Pink Dial Project, R32128102 for #ThePinkDialProject and why the brand decided to donate to the charity auction.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Farer Cobb Pulsometer Monopusher is a colourful masterclass in dial construction
As names for a timepiece go, Farer’s latest Chronograph Monopusher is as badass as it is to the point. Indeed, when someone asks what watch you are wearing and your retort is “the Farer Cobb Pulsometer Monopusher” you’d be hard pushed not to want to be a) intrigued and keen to take a closer look, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Farer Cobb Pulsometer Monopusher is a colourful masterclass in dial construction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Orange Is The New Black At Only Watch 2021: 5 Unique Watches With Sunny Dispositions And Orange Accents
Many brands participating in the 2021 Only Watch auction took inspiration from the orange-colored livery of the 2021 auction and worked it into their watches. While all of these watches are very different, what they have in common is their highly creative approach. Here Martin Green highlights five watches with orange in them from the 2021 Only Watch auction.
Hodinkee
Four + One: Award-Winning Industrial Designer Ini Archibong Wants Simplicity, Clarity, And Directness From His Watches
And he finds it in the work of F.P. Journe, Panerai, and others.
Hodinkee
In-Depth: Living With The Apple Watch Series 7
Apple's most advanced Watch wants to be part of every part of your life – and it's got a lot of good reasons to be.
Time+Tide
Did David Beckham accidentally just leak a new dateless Tudor Pelagos?
The Wilsdorf group are generally very secretive about their upcoming projects, so when a potential leak makes its way onto the internet all our hearts skip a beat with excitement. Sometimes we see unconfirmed catalogue pages that can be photoshopped by trolls looking to cause a stir, but lately it seems that if you want … ContinuedThe post Did David Beckham accidentally just leak a new dateless Tudor Pelagos? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
One To Watch: Brew Watch Co.
For the barista in all of us.
Hodinkee
Vintage Watches: A 1941 Longines 'Tre Tacche,' A 1960s Omega Speedmaster Ref. 2998-6, And A 1970s Audemars Piguet 'AP Steel' Automatic
Hot on the heels of the Longines Heritage Classic Limited Edition for HODINKEE, a vintage Longines headlines this week's collection from the vintage desk.
Deployant
Analysis: new Urwerk UR-112 Aggregat – technical virtuosity takes center stage
Urwerk announces the new UR-112 Aggregat, the name being the indication as it translates to the aggregate of the Urwerk know-how from the years past.
Revolution
Available in the Shop: All the way with the Tudor Black Bay
The Tudor Black Bay is universally loved and offers incredible diversity and great value. Incredibly the line is also less than 10 years old. We explore how this heritage diver hasn’t just ended up on the wrist of David Beckham, but also come to dominate the great Geneva-based brand’s catalogue and evolve beyond its retro-diver roots.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: IWC introduces two new stealth Top Gun Ceratanium Pilot’s watches
Today we are highway-ing into the danger zone, with two new complicated IWC Top Gun Ceratanium pilot’s watches that will take your breath away. OK, enough Top Gun puns. Focus Zach. IWC has brought forth two new stealth Ceratanium references: the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Top Gun Ceratanium and the IWC Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Top Gun … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: IWC introduces two new stealth Top Gun Ceratanium Pilot’s watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
All About Automata: Mechanical Magic (With Action Videos) – Reprise
Today's high-end automata beautifully illustrate that extraordinary engineering can be combined with impressive artistic crafts to wonderful ends. But even in the highest quality examples, the principles of what drives automata are largely the same as they have been for centuries because most are based on very straightforward mechanical principles to create motion. Everything you ever wanted to know about automata is right here.
Time+Tide
The Hamilton Khaki Aviation Takeoff Automatic Chronograph celebrates racing pilot Dario Costa’s latest jaw-dropping feat
Nerves of hardened titanium. Glacial water in his veins. What would cause the rest of us mortals to cry, lose control of bodily functions, and then pass out from sheer, white-knuckled terror is just another average commute to the office for record-breaking aerobatic and racing pilot Dario Costa. And he’s just done the incredible, again. … ContinuedThe post The Hamilton Khaki Aviation Takeoff Automatic Chronograph celebrates racing pilot Dario Costa’s latest jaw-dropping feat appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Burgundy Red Hands-on Review
Pros: Two watches in oneBurgundy Red dial and Rose gold case is a fantastic comboGood size Reverso may suit most wrists Cons: Some may find it to be expensiveLimited edition and boutique only – can be difficult to come byThe rectangular case may not suit all wrists Over All Rating: 8.6/10 Value for money – 7.5/10Wearability – 9/10Design – 9/10Build Quality – 9/10 I’m quite sure that we all know the story of how the Reverso came about quite well by now. If not, where have you been the last couple of decades? Even though it has been around since 1931, the watch did disappear from the range for a little while, before being resurrected in 1972 by an Italian watch dealer, Giorgio Corvo, who bought up the remaining Reverso cases (around 200) and sold them all in Italy after fitting them with a movement. Convinced that the range will sell, he persuaded Jaeger-LeCoultre to revive the range in the 80s. Fast forward to 1991, on the 60th anniversary of the Reverso, various complications were introduced in the watch. This was no small feat as there is a lot less room inside the rectangular case, and therefore being able to squeeze in complications meant that Jaeger-LeCoultre has had to overcome many obstacles. We may take a two-faced Reverso for granted these days, but even that requires years of development to achieve. This brings us to the watch today, one of the 90th-anniversary models, and quite possibly one of the prettiest, most elegant and stunning Reverso ever to g...
SJX Watches
Raketa Introduces the Copernicus Semiprecious Stone Dial
Originally a 1980s Soviet vision of a funky, space-inspired wristwatch, the Raketa Kopernik paid homage to the USSR’s space programme. With hands shaped like the sun and moon, the Kopernik was simple but distinctive. Two years ago Raketa revived the model with a refined design and larger case. It was one of the first models launched by the brand, now owned by European investors advised by Manuel Emch, the former chief executive of Jaquet Droz who’s injected an artistic sensibility into Raketa. Now the brand reveals the Copernicus Limited Edition, which features a semiprecious stone dial cleverly composed to resemble the cosmos. Initial thoughts The new Copernicus is a simple variation that manages to be smart and stylish. The yellow agate disc inlaid into the dial evokes the swirling atmosphere of gaseous planets like Jupiter, set against sparkling aventurine glass that calls to mind deep space. Add to that the oversized, stylised hands and the result is a appealing watch that’s relatively affordable. Perhaps the only downside to the watch is the basic finishing, especially the movement. Though it’s been dressed up with gold plating and a solar system motif etched on the bridges, the movement remains rough looking. For about US$1,500, the mechanics could be better. Deep space The aesthetics of the watch are meant to evoke deep space: the steel case is coated matte black, creating contrast with the dial. Inside is the cal. 2615, a fuss-free automata calibre ma...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Hamilton's Surprising New Take On The Pilot's Watch
The 38mm Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer is 20,000 feet of cool.
Hodinkee
HODINKEE Radio: An Episode Most British
The watch podcast equivalent of a full English breakfast.
SJX Watches
Introducing the Kudoke 2 “Zodiac” – SJX Edition Two
Like the recent Habring² Erwin “Star”, the Kudoke 2 “Zodiac” was conceived to encapsulate the brand’s work while being different enough to stand apart from its other watches. Limited to 21 pieces (and one prototype), the Zodiac is the first watch in the brand’s Handwerk collection that is fully engraved on the front and back – entirely hand engraved in fact, with the only machine engraving on the watch being the markings on the rim of the case back. Origins This started with the simple fact that I was impressed with the Kudoke 2 when I first saw it in 2019. The watch also won the Petite Aiguille prize at the year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG). Equally important was the fact that I appreciate the specialised, artisanal nature of the Dresden-based brand, which is essentially a husband-and-wife enterprise led by by Stefan and Ev Kudoke. That said, I did wish the dial of the Kudoke 2 had more detail. And at the same time, Kudoke historically specialised in hand-engraved movements, which made it was obvious the solution was to enhance the Kudoke 2 with engraved decoration. “Kudoke” is hand engraved on the applied plaque whereas on the standard model it is machine engraved The starting point of the Zodiac was the day-and-night indicator on the standard Kudoke 2 – it is my favourite element and had to be retained. And its celestial-Art Deco would influence the rest of the Zodiac’s design. The day and night scale with a tiny crescent at 12 ...