Hodinkee
Happenings: Come Hang With HODINKEE And Zenith: We're Hosting A 'Master Of Chronographs' Event Next Week In New York
Explore the history of Zenith's El Primero at Phillips – and meet the HODINKEE editors.
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Hodinkee
Explore the history of Zenith's El Primero at Phillips – and meet the HODINKEE editors.
Time+Tide
Blancpain’s Air Command series is getting two new options for the range in titanium and red gold. They’re smaller than the previous 42mm-plus sized versions we are used to, and are being marketed as more “feminine”. But these watches could be great for anyone seeking vintage-esque dimensions, or who, like me, usually prefer watches on … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Blancpain Air Command delivers new pilot’s chronographs under 37mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Watchmaking at times can be very predictable and with brands often merely switching up colourways in their latest novelties there is not always as much shock and awe as we would like. Not MB&F; though, you can always count on the independent manufacture to keep you guessing and make the jaws of horological die-hards hit … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The MB&F; LM Sequential EVO incorporates two chronographs in one watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Relative value thanks to a similar design is the theme of the week in the Vintage Shop.
Time+Tide
Imagine yourself at the Formula 1 – or any motorsport it doesn’t really matter. You can smell the heat oozing off the rubbery tarmac, the whine and hum of engines, the exciting echo of a presenter on the loudspeaker introducing the racers. You look down and note the time, activating a pusher on the side … ContinuedThe post Five of the best ocean-going chronographs beyond the usual suspects appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Welcome to The Icons, a series where we take a horological deep dive into the most legendary watches of all time. We’ll delve into the story behind the watch, its evolution over the years, famous (and infamous) wearers, the classic references, and the contemporary versions you should be checking out. This week, it’s the Zenith … ContinuedThe post Why the Zenith El Primero is the numero uno among Swiss chronographs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Top Gun editions have been a staple of IWC’s catalogue since 2007. Over the years, the collection has become a space of exploration for the brand – utilising advanced materials such as ceramic to push the boundaries of what it means to be a top-notch pilot’s watch. Many of these designs leveraged the stealth appeal … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: IWC reveal two new Top Gun Chronographs in “Lake Tahoe White” & “Woodland Green” ceramic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Deployant
The Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Collection expands with 5 new sports watches - two Spring Drive GMT references, two Spring Drive Chronographs and a Diver.
SJX Watches
Famous for its no-nonsense “tool” watches, Sinn supplied custom-designed chronographs to the tactical unit of Germany’s federal customs agency, ZUZ for short, when the unit was established in 1997. Having reissued the watch in a larger format in 2017, the German watchmaker once again revisits the minimalist chronograph with the EZM 1.1 S conceived for the 25th anniversary of the original. Limited to 500 pieces, the EZM 1.1 S is essentially identical to the 2017 limited edition, except it has the addition of a black coating on the hardened steel case, resulting in an exceptionally high level of wear resistance. Initial thoughts The all-black finish fits the EZM 1.1 perfectly in both style and substance. As far as military-inspired instrument watches go, this is a good one – with a few caveats. But because it’s identical to the earlier EZM 1.1, it has the same drawbacks, namely size and weight, both of which are slightly excessive. While the original EZM 1 designed for the ZUZ was compact and lightweight, the EZM 1.1 feels like a chunky, heavy watch on the wrist. At about US$5,500, the EZM 1.1 S is relatively affordable in absolute terms, but fairly pricey for a chronograph powered by Valjoux 7750, albeit one modified to have a central elapsed minutes. Sinn tech A large part of the Sinn proposition is its proprietary technology that boosts durability. Being one of the brand’s priciest watches, the EZM 1.1 S boasts almost all of the brand’s innovations, starti...
Hodinkee
Six favorites to start – or end – a collection.
Hodinkee
Better a dog that's a watch than a watch that's a dog.
Hodinkee
Three contemporary takes on some of Patek's most patrician watches – including a steel 5905.
Quill & Pad
As we race toward the Formula 1 season finale in Abu Dhabi on December 12, 2021, Elizabeth Doerr takes a look at Bell & Ross’s three limited-edition chronographs celebrating Formula 1’s Alpine F1 team, which have also been worn throughout the season by the team’s staff.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
This week Baird and Kaz sit down to talk all things meca-quartz chronographs - how they work, models they like, and much more. Tune in and enjoy!
The Type XX and Type XXI chronographs don’t seem to get quite as much attention as you would think they’d get, at least in the USA, where the world of pilot’s chronographs skews much more heavily towards companies like IWC, Omega, and Breitling. Maybe part of the reason for that is that when you think of tool watches, you might think of an awful lot of companies but Breguet just isn’t one of them – tourbillons, certainly, and a history of making aesthetically irreproachable, often complicated, and very elegant watches from the end of the 18th century right down until the present day, but not tool watches as such. And yet, aviation is perhaps just as important a part of the Breguet family’s history as watchmaking, with the Type XX and XXI chronographs representing one of the most important aspects of the inventiveness that characterized Abraham Louis Breguet and his descendants.
Time+Tide
Seiko has a rich and ever-evolving tradition of sports timing and chronometry. Known for historically frightening the Swiss in observatory competitions and being a proud timing partner for events such as the Olympic Games, Seiko has always been motivated by accuracy – a pillar of many of their designs. Today the brand, in a continuing … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Speedtimer Mechanical and Solar Prospex Chronographs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Introducing the Louis Erard Excellence Collection and La Sportive Chronographs
Time+Tide
IWC is renowned for larger timepieces with their modern flagship model being the IWC Big Pilot to many. But as we saw this past year, the Schaffhausen manufacture has taken notice of the increased demand for more scaled back timepieces – introducing the Big Pilot 43, for example, as a more compact alternative. Previously the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: IWC goes more classic and compact with new Portofino line of 39mm chronographs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Historically a supplier of timepieces to the German military and police, Tutima now offers a broad line of “tool” watches. The latest from the Glashütte-based brand is the M2 Seven Seas S, the first version of its dive watch with a steel case (prior models are all titanium). Initial thoughts Tutima’s M2 line of sports watches are all big and solid, with chunky but streamlined cases modelled on the ref. 798 chronograph the brand once supplied to the German military. While simple, they are effective tool watches. The Seven Seas S sticks to the same formula, except in steel. That means it’s heavier, which might not be for everyone given the size. But the steel has the upside of a brushed finished with some polished accents, giving the case and bracelet a more varied look than the uniform sandblasted finish of the titanium model. But the best thing about the Seven Seas S is the version with a yellow dégradé dial, which darkens to a green-black at its edges. It’s an unusual and striking finish that sets the Seven Seas S apart from most of the competition. The only drawback with the new Seven Seas is the ETA 2824 inside. It’s robust and easy to service, but has a short power reserve of just 38 hours, which means it’ll probably stop if off the wrist for more than a day. Power reserves of 50 to 70 hours are now the industry norm, even at the entry level, so this disadvantages the Seven Seas. The Seven Seas S is relatively affordable and fairly competitively price...
SJX Watches
While Breguet is associated with classical timepieces – and a history laden with gems that continue to inspire watchmakers today – it does have a significant history with military watches. In the mid-20th century, Breguet, along with a few other watchmakers, supplied the French military with the “Type 20” aviator’s chronograph. Breguet has referenced that military history since the military-inspired Type XX of 1994, which was succeeded by the more complex Type XXI and Type XXII. And now Breguet has just unveiled the Type XXI 3815, which has a titanium case and strikingly peculiar dials in two colours. The version with orange “lume” is especially striking Initial thoughts Breguet has been iterating the Type 20 for almost 30 years – rumour has it a replacement for the base model is due next year – and the Type XXI was an upgrade to the original that never gained the popularity of the original. The new Type XXI 3815 is the third variant of the model to date, and perhaps a missed opportunity. Most elements on the watch are taken from historical models, each correct on its own way – including faux-radium lume and a “big eye” register – but combined haphazardly. The result is an aesthetic that tries to be bold but ends up looking odd. The combination of elements on the dial leaves it off balance. The “big eye” counter feels too big, creating the impression it is far off centre, while the text under 12 o’clock leaves the dial top heavy. Add to t...
Time+Tide
Given the disruptive effects of the pandemic upon watch manufacturers, it’s understandable that some are now cagey about taking too many big risks. At this year’s Watches & Wonders, many brands chose to expand on their design languages without pushing things too far and the results are some truly refined watches. But whether it be … ContinuedThe post The top 5 chronographs of Watches & Wonders 2021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Here is a look at some options beyond the coveted Speedmasters and Carreras that offer plenty of period-correct design, legit heritage and sheer wrist appeal without the hefty price tag.
Revolution
Enter the world of the super-fast chronographs, capable of marking time down to fractions of a second - tenths, hundredths and beyond.
Time+Tide
The 1940s were peak years for twin register chronographs with some notable greats from Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and Lemania. As the functional sports watches of that era, the typical twin register layout was balanced with a delicate design language and an often whimsical art-deco flourish to the graphics. In 2021, their intricate detail and … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Furlan Marri deliver retro chronographs at a great price in their assured debut collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Every time you read a story about the ocean, there’s a good chance you’ll see that it is “95% unexplored”, or “we know more about the surface of the moon than of the seafloor”. As most tropes go, they are as annoying as they are true, and in this case they’re also an apt metaphor for vintage watch knowledge. While the details of vintage Patek Philippe and Rolex have been mapped down to their going trains, numerous brands remain relatively uncharted – a Marianas Trench’s of knowledge awaiting exploration. Midcentury Movado chronographs lie squarely at those depths; let’s dive in. As we arrive at the door of our submersible, we must first acknowledge those who have assembled taxonomies of this scantly-explored abyss: the late Fritz van Osterhausen, author of The Movado History, and the excellent M95 chronograph reference the e-newsletter Rescapement published a few years ago. Using their ballast - no, I haven’t run out of nautical metaphors yet - we hope to fathom yet further. Today, we’ll peer into with what many consider the pinnacle of Movado collecting, its exceptionally-cased midcentury chronographs. History Until the 21st century, Swiss watch production was predominantly a cottage industry. Specialists manufactured the case, dial, or ebauche (movement blank), and peddled their wares to as many brands as possible. While final products were modified to brand specifications, family traits are easily discernible across marques that shared sup...
Time+Tide
William Wood is known for their well built and accessibly priced timepieces, all of which are inspired by fire rescue and the brave people who put their lives on the line every day. We’ve covered the full backstory of the brand and its name before, but just to recap: William Wood was the name of … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The William Wood Triumph collection is a set of chronographs ready to catch fire appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
As service-issue chronographs continue to experience an inexorable growth in interest, we take a look at the origins and unusual specs of some of the finest, most important pilot’s chronographs in military history.
Deployant
Here's Chester's choice of three chronographs from this year. They are mostly practical in function, unique in design and highly collectible.
Time+Tide
It is fair to argue that the two most popular watch categories that find their way onto the wrists of buyers around the world are dive watches and chronographs. Both have their merits and are classic staples of the watch industry, but what if there was a way to have both? The DOXA SUB 200 … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The DOXA SUB 200 C-GRAPH – the most colourful chronographs we’ve seen in years appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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