Hodinkee
Happenings: The Horological Society Of New York Introduces Engine Turning (Guilloché) Classes
Engine turning is a craft that spans many cultures, disciplines, and design philosophies.
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Hodinkee
Engine turning is a craft that spans many cultures, disciplines, and design philosophies.
Worn & Wound
Don’t look now, but it feels like luxury watch brands are finally beginning to discover what many in the enthusiast community have known for quite some time, namely that titanium rules, and that given the proper attention, it can clean up pretty nicely and actually look quite refined. We recently saw Zenith debut their Chronomaster Sport in titanium, and it’s not really a surprise that their sportiest watch translates particularly well in the material. Now, just weeks later, Girard-Perregaux has unveiled a new Laureato Chronograph reference in titanium, the Laureato Chronograph Ti49. While Girard-Perregaux has had other titanium Laureatos in their catalog, this is the first time the classic case profile has been presented in grade 5 titanium. That’s important, because the Laureato case is essential to understanding the watch. The chronograph case measures 42mm in diameter and is just 12mm tall, and the case is gentler and curvier than other integrated bracelet sports watches that were introduced in the same era (the Laureato was introduced in 1975). In steel, the Laureato Chronograph has an imposing heft, and you feel every ounce in that watch’s wrist presence. In titanium, the chronograph presents very differently, and has that shockingly light feeling that people who swear by titanium have always known and loved. What’s special about this watch is that, similar to the Zenith linked above, Girard-Perregaux has paid special attention to the dial, picking a co...
Deployant
We reviewed the Bell & Ross BR-X5 Green Lum last year, and were impressed on how BR achieved this lume on the watch. We investigate.
Monochrome
MB&F; undertook its maiden voyage into the galaxy of women’s watches with the launch of its Legacy Machine Flying T in 2019. After 14 years of masterminding complex watches for men, Max Büsser’s Legacy Machine Flying T flaunted all the attributes associated with MB&F; watches but in a more feminine format – or even a […]
Monochrome
While we all very well know who created the luxury sports watch segment, and what was the first sporty-chic watch with integrated bracelet, it must be said that other iconic models came on the market soon after. Following the 1972 Royal Oak, 1976 saw the introduction of the Nautilus and 1977 the launch of the […]
Time+Tide
GP drop a sporty, monochromatic titanium take on their popular integrated luxury sports watch.The post The sporty Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Ti49 is the first-ever titanium Laureato reference appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Already collaborators on several projects, Dominique Renaud, one of the founders of Renaud & Papi, and Julien Tixier, a young watchmaker and constructor, have established Renaud Tixier, a brand backed by investors. The inaugural creation of Renaud Tixier is Monday, a time-only watch with an automatic movement sporting a novel micro-rotor. Conceived to realise Mr Renaud’s many concepts and inventions, Renaud Tixier also aims to blend the styles of the two watchmakers. Each of the namesake founders comes from a different generation of watchmaking – pre- and post-Quartz Crisis – but the duo enjoy a shared philosophy that have made their past projects a success, something they are hoping to replicate with Renaud Tixier. Initial thoughts On a macro level, the Renaud Tixier and its first watch are noteworthy for a few reasons. One of its main points of appeal, at least initially, is the name, specifically Dominique Renaud. Even though he departed Renaud & Papi (APRP) over 20 years ago, his name still carries weight, particularly since many alumni of APRP, Anthony de Haas of Lange and Carole Forestier of TAG Heuer for instance, speak well of him. The name will certainly help sell the watch, particularly in countries with a strong reverence for creators and history, like Japan for example. And the fact that it’s a micro-rotor is noteworthy. Though relatively common in high-end watchmaking, micro-rotors are rare amongst independent watchmakers. The most prominent indie mak...
Time+Tide
With its roots embedded in the late 1920s, the Vulcain Grand Prix isn't the racing watch you think it might be.The post The Vulcain Grand Prix honours the brand’s award-winning history appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Great Danes and a great watch collide in this behind-the-scenes photo.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Our full review of the affordable and impressive San Martin SN004 MilSub. Get full specs with photos and our detailed analysis.
Fratello
Some 25 kilometers north of Geneva, on the shore of the city’s eponymous lake, lies the town of Nyon. This is the place that Renaud Tixier, the latest Swiss independent watch brand launching today, calls its home. It’s the latest collaborative effort between Dominique Renaud - the renowned watchmaker and co-founder of Renaud & Papi […] Visit Reinventing The Micro-Rotor: Renaud Tixier Makes A Mechanically Innovative Debut to read the full article.
Fratello
Am I being overly dramatic when I think of the word “fratricide” after seeing the two-tone Certina DS Action GMT Powermatic 80? Well, first, this is Fratello, so it is within the theme. And then there’s the watch. Certina’s GMT took me by surprise and made me worry about its “big brother,” the Longines Spirit […] Visit The Two-Tone Certina DS Action GMT Powermatic 80 Took Me By Surprise On A Monday Morning to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Brock Purdy may not have been able to celebrate a Super Bowl win, but last week he celebrated at his wedding wearing a Tudor Black Bay.The post NFL QB Brock Purdy got married with a Tudor Black Bay on his wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Swiss brand Genus is known for the quirky extravagance of the GNS1. It won the GPHG award for Mechanical Exception in 2019 and spawned some delightful variations. We also know the challenges of the “second album” for any hot new artist, as well as for wristwear. By introducing the Genus GNS2, I feel the brand […] Visit Introducing: The Genus GNS2 - Radical Chic With A Blue Twist to read the full article.
Monochrome
There was a time in Formula 1 racing where not one, not two, not three but pretty much half the field had the talent and material to compete for race wins, and thus the championship. During the 1970s, a time that’s considered the golden age of F1 racing, many stars rose to the top. Think […]
Time+Tide
There are few manual winding watches for under $500. Thankfully, Timex has you covered.The post Why I think the Timex Marlin is the perfect entry-level manual-winding watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Family, tragedy, wrestling, and Rolex anchor our watch-related movie of the week.
Monochrome
Union Glashütte might be one of the lesser-known brands of the Swatch Group, but it is nevertheless one that has recently caught our attention, and for very good reasons. It shouldn’t be overlooked. Headquartered in the small town of Glashütte, Germany, close to sister brand Glashütte Original (also owned by Swatch), UG acts in a […]
Worn & Wound
“Just a Minute” is a short-form video series designed to present all the facts about our favorite products in under 60 seconds. These are easy to consume and provide quick but meaningful rundowns on everything you need to know. As always, we encourage you to join our rewards program to earn points and save with every purchase. The Windup Watch Shop team is also available to schedule a consultation with you and answer any questions you have. Today’s sixty seconds of fame belong to a watch that has already made a name for itself in the world of motorsports. The newly-reintroduced Tissot PR516 is a celebration of Tissot’s ultra-successful sports chronograph from the 1970s. This premium offering comes in multiple variations – several attractive quartz references and a flagship manually wound Valjoux-based version. Tissot’s ability to deftly reinterpret this modern classic results in a mechanical chronograph that is bound to make waves. Get all the details in our Just A Minute video below, and shop the new PR516 mechanical right here in the Shop. “Just a Minute” is a short-form video series designed to present all the facts about our favorite products in under 60 seconds. These are easy to consume and provide quick but meaningful rundowns on everything you need to know. As always, we encourage you to join our rewards program to earn points and save with every purchase. The Windup Watch Shop team is also available to schedule a consultation with you and answer a...
Worn & Wound
It’s slightly ironic, but being into everyday carry has caused me not to have a true EDC. After years of collecting, I’ve amassed a collection of gear that allows me to swap out key pieces, depending on the tasks I expect to encounter. What you’ll find below are categories of gear that I carry daily. Starting from the pack and working my way in, you’ll see how I organize and store my gear so that it’s easily reached and ready for use when needed. Some of these items may sound a bit strange, but they all work together to create an entire “carry system” that helps me solve 90% of the problems I encounter daily. Bag A high-quality pack is the foundation of my EDC, and it has the potential to make or break my entire system. I have three main criteria for my packs: it has to look good, have a functional layout, and be made from durable materials. With these criteria in mind, I have a small rotation of packs that serve different purposes. The first pack I frequently use is a GORUCK Heritage GR1 in an olive colorway. This is the largest pack I carry, coming in at 26 liters in capacity. I love the waxed canvas and leather look and the open main compartment allows me to stack pouches and other items inside as needed. Having a dedicated Quick Access Pocket (AKA, a QAP) gives me a convenient spot to stash my keys and earbuds. Thanks to the waxed canvas fabric, this bag will continuously patina and look even better as it ages. Another pack that I use regularly is the...
Monochrome
A venerable brand that was slightly dormant for about a decade, Vulcain is sort of a hidden gem that has long been recognized as the specialist of the alarm watch – a niche concept but one that has to be kept alive. However, for the past couple of years, Vulcain has been revived and now […]
WatchAdvice
IN PARTNERSHIP: Zenith has gone back to their vintage roots with a faithful re-creation of the intended design from the 70’s, and we’ve road-tested it to see if the 1970’s works in 2024! What We Love Vintage styling that doesn’t look out of place todayPracticality of the chronograph and calendar functionsThe subtle green colour that’s not in your face What We Don’t The 38mm size is a touch on the small sideLeather strap could be more detailed to suit the watchThickness when compared to the case size with the raised lugs Overall Rating: 8.125/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 7.5/10Design: 8/10Build quality: 9/10 Zenith came out of the blocks strong for 2024 where at LVMH Watch Week in January they went strong on their Chronomaster line. Part of these launches was the re-introduction of the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar in three colourways, which we covered here. The commentary and feedback from these releases were overall positive, especially amongst the collector community where vintage and sub 40mm pieces are received incredibly well. Just look at the below Instagram post from ChampsG with the comments on this. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Chamath Gamage (@champsg) So when we agreed to do this hands on review, I was curious as to how I would like the green boutique edition, as quite frankly it’s not a watch I would generally gravitate towards – the Chronomaster Sport is a little more my style. But that’s what I love about havi...
Fratello
Tiger bites kill, but marmot bites are just a tad annoying. Porsche Design decided to reimagine a military chronograph of the 1970s and position it in a more peaceful, civilian way. So the original U.S. Air Force tiger’s head made way for a screaming marmot. The medium-sized rodent is called a “Mankei” in Pinzgau, Austria. […] Visit Taking The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 Utility LE For A Ride to read the full article.
Fratello
I think we can all agree here that the Zenith Chronomaster Original is already one of the best-looking chronographs out there. Adding the calendar and moonphase complications on top could’ve ended in absolute disaster. However, it certainly didn’t - quite the opposite, actually. When the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar launched a little over a month […] Visit Hands-On With The Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar - A Real Gentleman’s Chronograph to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
A pleasure to wear on the wrist, and it looks quite slim; cbut alling it 'ultra-slim' might be a bridge too far. Which means that the quest for the perfect ultra thin tourbillon wristwatch is still open; however, this Jaeger-LeCoultre came very close to being just that.
SJX Watches
Longines facelifted the Conquest Chronograph last year, giving it more vintage flavour while retaining the sporty style of its predecessor and also the slightly-too-big case. The new look is reminiscent of a more famous sports chronograph, but compared to its predecessor, the new Conquest is more coherent. Initial thoughts At a distance, the Conquest Chronograph bears a striking resemblance to the modern Rolex Daytona, which is unsurprising given the commercial success of the Cosmograph (hence Zenith’s Chronomaster Sport as well). But in the hand it is clearly a larger, chunkier watch than its famous rival, and upon closer inspection, the dial design is also distinct with several interesting details. The previous Conquest tried to be different and ended up being too much. That design was characterised by an oversized “12” that was recognisable but not sophisticated. Although the resemblance to the modern Daytona is apparent at a distance, the dial gets more interesting up close (and also gives off some Paul Newman vibes). The new Conquest has a cleaner dial design with a slightly retro style thanks to a sector-like chapter ring. It does without a date, something purists will approve of. Although all four dial colours share the same design, two stand out. The champagne dial is a unique colour for a sports chronograph in this price segment, while the silver dial has just the right amount of red accents, with the red-outlined luminous squares being particularly interest...
Hodinkee
NASA and the Lunar Missions are not all about the Speedmaster and this new LE celebrates that in a big way.
Worn & Wound
Whether you’re thinking of Titanic or the majestic vista of Mont Blanc, there is no denying that glaciers have long held the fascination of the human psyche. In a way, their calming, serene presence belies the danger that can exist on one of these masses of ice – and, in a way, this juxtaposition is a perfect jumping-off point for a watch design. Like, for instance, what Baltic has done with their Hermétique Glacier collection. Coming in both a White and Black reference, the Hermétique Glacier is both meticulously crafted and finely designed to elegantly represent the essence of les glaciers. Starting with the dial, both the White and Black versions draw inspiration from the ethereal beauty of glaciers to create a stamped pattern that emulates the various textures of a glacier’s surface. Super-Luminova® BGW9-coated hour appliques and “syringe” hands ensure effortless readability, even amidst dimly lit environments. Ostensibly a field watch, Baltic reinforces the notion of “form and function” when combining a beautifully designed watch with its 150-meter water resistance, double-domed sapphire crystal, and use of 316L stainless steel for the case. Despite its rugged capabilities, the Hermétique Glacier maintains an elegant profile, with the case measuring a mere 10.8mm in thickness and clocking in at 37mm. The watch runs on a calibre 9039 movement, a self-winding movement with a 42-hour power reserve developed by the Japanese manufacturer Miyota. Various s...
Fratello
I am very excited to announce that the RZE × Fratello Resolute Pro “Contour” is available to pre-order now in the Fratello Shop. This launch is something new for Fratello regarding price point, and it all came to life off the back of community feedback. We’ve been truly humbled by the support from the Fratelli […] Visit Available Now: The RZE × Fratello Resolute Pro “Contour” Limited Edition to read the full article.
Fratello
Excelsior Park holds quite a special place in watchmaking history. It was a fine-quality watch manufacturer, but the company’s name remains unknown to many today. The reason is simple: EP mostly delivered cases and movements to other familiar watch brands, including Zenith, Girard-Perregaux, and Gallet. Applying the rule of thumb when randomly browsing vintage watch […] Visit #TBT A Black-Dialed Solitaire - An Excelsior Park “Olimpico” Chronograph With A Pulsation Track to read the full article.
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