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HANDS-ON: Why the new Bulgari Octo Roma Automatic won me over with its quiet luxury appeal Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Roma Automatic won Jul 16, 2023

HANDS-ON: Why the new Bulgari Octo Roma Automatic won me over with its quiet luxury appeal

This year the Bulgari Octo Roma received a long overdue makeover that brings it more in line with its more flashy sibling Finissimo. Not only do the changes add welcome continuity across the collection, but also a little extra elegance to the collection’s more affordable but no less delightful offering. I would hazard a guess … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Why the new Bulgari Octo Roma Automatic won me over with its quiet luxury appeal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Bvlgari Jul 9, 2023

A Week in Watches Ep. 57 – Seiko Made What?!

Aaaaaaaaand we’re back for episode 57 of a Week in Watches! It’s been a crazy couple of weeks for launches which includes a bounty of 62 concept watches from the Only Watch auction, so we’re playing a little bit of catch up this week. We start with a trip to the stars with the new Ming 37.05 series 2 and then head to the races with the new Tudor FXDs. After, I couldn’t help but take another look at Only Watch focusing on the incredible offerings from Baltic, Bvlgari, and Konstantin Chaykin. Our last topic was a surprise and surprising drop from Seiko in the form of a new 62MAS re-issue. This week’s sponsor is Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2023! After a successful weekend in San Francisco, the highly anticipated Windup Watch Fair is heading back to the vibrant city of Chicago from Friday, July 14, through Sunday, July 16, 2023. The fair will be held at Venue West, located at 221 N Paulina St in the West Loop neighborhood of Chicago, and feature over 40 brands. Visit and follow windupwatchfair.com for the full list of participating brands. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 57 – Seiko Made What?! appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Australian independent watchmaker Reuben Schoots’ watch is on Loupe This – but I am the highest bidder so BACK OFF! Time+Tide
Jul 8, 2023

Australian independent watchmaker Reuben Schoots’ watch is on Loupe This – but I am the highest bidder so BACK OFF!

Watchmaking is a source of pride for various regions. Of course the most famous are the Swiss, but Japan, Britain, Germany also proudly boast high quality watchmaking – where each region has their own personal stamp on the art form. The USA, once home to a burgeoning watch industry, finds itself working back towards prestige, … ContinuedThe post Australian independent watchmaker Reuben Schoots’ watch is on Loupe This – but I am the highest bidder so BACK OFF! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Patek Philippe Introduces the World Time Ref. 5330G-010 Tokyo 2023 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Jun 10, 2023

Patek Philippe Introduces the World Time Ref. 5330G-010 Tokyo 2023

Having just opened the doors of the Watch Art Grand Grand Exhibition in Tokyo, Patek Philippe also revealed the special editions created for the event, including the World Time Limited Edition Tokyo 2023 ref. 5330G-10. Limited to 300 watches available only in Japan, the ref. 5330G-010 is the brand’s first world time with a date display. It features a guilloche dial in purple, the thematic hue of the exhibition, along with subtle references to Japan on the dial. Initial thoughts While the ref. 5330G-010 is not the flagship complication of the Watch Art Tokyo 2023 event – that title is claimed by the ref. 5308P Quadruple Complication – the new World Time is quintessential Patek Philippe. For one, the world time complication, though not invented by Patek Philippe, is strongly associated with the brand. At the same time, the date display is both practical and incorporated in an elegant manner, while the mechanics behind the date are sophisticated and thin as is typical of the brand’s approach to movements. Also in its favour are the discreet and tasteful references to Japan on the dial. But while the plum dial is striking and rich, the colour might not be for everyone. But putting aside the colour, the ref. 5330G-010 is an appealing watch. It is limited to just 300 pieces sold only in Japan, which makes availability at retail non-existent for most, but fortunately the ref. 5330 will almost certainly make it into the catalogue as a regular production model, as past exhi...

Zodiac Introduces the Sea-Chron, a Vintage Inspired Chronograph with Roots in the 1960s Worn & Wound
Zodiac Introduces May 9, 2023

Zodiac Introduces the Sea-Chron, a Vintage Inspired Chronograph with Roots in the 1960s

Zodiac continues to plumb the depths of their archives with their latest release, the Sea-Chron chronograph. Originating in the 1960s, the Sea-Chron was a natural extension of the Sea Wolf, a platform that Zodiac has returned to in recent years to great success. This sporty diver’s chronograph picks up on a lot of the aesthetic cues of the classic Sea Wolf, but has some key technical upgrades that put it squarely in modern watch territory. It also fills a fairly wide hole in the Zodiac catalog – it’s hard to believe, but up until this week, they didn’t have a chronograph in their collection.  Zodiac envisions the Sea-Chron as a true multipurpose sports watch. Like their dive watches, the Sea-Chron has a full 200 meters of water resistance, and the case has been outfitted with a timing bezel with a twenty minute interval. Inside the timing bezel and at the dial’s perimeter, you’ll find a tachymeter that can be used completely independently of the Sea-Chron’s dive timing features. The handset is the familiar Zodiac fence post design, and squared off apertures with lume underneath for the hours, except at 3, 6 and 9, where you’ll find the sub registers for minute and hour totalizations, and a running seconds indicator.  There are two variants of the Sea-Chron available at launch. One in a clean black and white colorway that would appear to prize legibility above all else. This version has a black base dial and white subdials, and, crucially, a white tachymet...

KISS, MARRY, KILL: The Time+Tide team reveal their picks from Watches & Wonders Time+Tide
May 6, 2023

KISS, MARRY, KILL: The Time+Tide team reveal their picks from Watches & Wonders

Watches & Wonders is obviously a great time to get introduced to some of the biggest novelties of the year across 40-plus brands. But, it is also a rare moment each year where our global team finds themselves all in one place together. Last year, you let us know you really enjoyed our meet the … ContinuedThe post KISS, MARRY, KILL: The Time+Tide team reveal their picks from Watches & Wonders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Christopher Ward enters the integrated bracelet game with the handsome Twelve Time+Tide
Christopher Ward enters Apr 27, 2023

Christopher Ward enters the integrated bracelet game with the handsome Twelve

Making desirable watches affordable, let alone available, is a struggle that many brands are currently facing. From the entry-level to the high-end, each desirable piece went through a period of unavailability, while many have also increased in price since their release – MoonSwatch, PRX, Nautilus, just to name a few. Christopher Ward, champion of the … ContinuedThe post Christopher Ward enters the integrated bracelet game with the handsome Twelve appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Inside the Collection: Common Threads Through Uncommon Chronographs Worn & Wound
IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Apr 26, 2023

Inside the Collection: Common Threads Through Uncommon Chronographs

I am not a chronograph guy. At least that’s what I keep telling myself. I’ve owned my share of chronographs over the years, but they always seem to be first on the chopping block when something new comes along that I need to clear out space for. They also, in general, don’t appeal to me aesthetically. I tend to like a less cluttered, more serene dial than what you’ll find on a typical chronograph, simply because of the nature of the complication itself. And I certainly don’t belong in the nerdiest segment of chronograph lovers, who have deeply held beliefs about the best chronograph movements ever made, and can rattle off the most minute differences between Speedmaster references at the drop of a hat. I admire the dedication and knowledge of these hardcore chronograph superfans, but I’ve never counted myself among them.  And yet, day to day, the watch I’ve worn the most by far over the last year is a chronograph that flies in the face of everything I tend to think about my own watch preferences. And if you were to ask me, “Hey Zach, out of all of your watches, which one has your favorite dial?” I’d have to respond with another chronograph, that has one of the most intricate and beautifully made dials I’ve had the pleasure of owning. So what’s going on here? How did such a non-chrono guy wind up with this weird chrono subcollection?  My IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Ceratanium has effectively become my daily wearer since picking it up last sum...

Cartier Introduces the Tank Normale Skeleton SJX Watches
Cartier Introduces Apr 21, 2023

Cartier Introduces the Tank Normale Skeleton

Having just introduced a revived version of the classic Tank Normale, Cartier also debuted a modern take on the design, the Tank Normale Skeleton. It’s equipped with a in-house skeletonised movement done in Cartier’s typical geometric style, but with a discreet twist in the form of a 24-hour time display. Initial thoughts  At a glance the Tank Normale Skeleton might seem like yet another skeletonised Tank, of which there have been several over the years. But look closer and it emerges as something more interesting. The dial tells the time on a 24-hour scale, a modest complication in mechanical terms but one that references Cartier’s historical day-and-night timepieces. And the complication is echoed in the sun-and-moon motif of the bridges rendered in a complementary Art Deco style. In short, it’s an elegant take on the day-and-night display done in quintessential Cartier style. Created especially for this model, the calibre inside is notably attractive. It’s fairly symmetrical in layout – the balance is at 12 o’clock while the barrel sits at six – and finished to match the style of the bridges. But it does still have an Etachron regulator, which is found in all Cartier skeleton movements but still out of place considering the price. And the price is steep. At US$71,000 in yellow gold and slightly more in platinum, it is pricey for a relatively straightforward skeleton watch. In comparison, the Santos-Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor also launched this year is ...

How the war for Instagram eyeballs changed brands’ approach to new releases Time+Tide
Apr 16, 2023

How the war for Instagram eyeballs changed brands’ approach to new releases

Lion tamer, Professor of Advanced Mathematics, Alaskan crab fisherman… Truth be told there are many jobs that I’d be really, really bad at. But another profession where I’d also fail abysmally would be working as a buyer for a multi-brand watch retailer. The reason I’m aware of this additional shortcoming is due to my experience … ContinuedThe post How the war for Instagram eyeballs changed brands’ approach to new releases appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Czapek Antarctique Révélation opens its heart to watch aficionados Time+Tide
Czapek Antarctique Révélation opens Apr 11, 2023

The Czapek Antarctique Révélation opens its heart to watch aficionados

Czapek has expanded their best-selling integrated Antarctique line with the stunning open-worked Révélation The new in-house SXH7 auto-winding movement is an evolution of their SXH5, completely reworked for maximum visual impact on both sides The Révélation is also the first non-chrono Antarctique with a skeletonised dial Open-worked dials can be one of the most thrilling … ContinuedThe post The Czapek Antarctique Révélation opens its heart to watch aficionados appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: New Czapek Antarctique timepieces presented by CEO Xavier de Roquemaurel Revolution
Czapek Antarctique timepieces presented Mar 30, 2023

VIDEO: New Czapek Antarctique timepieces presented by CEO Xavier de Roquemaurel

A very young brand that has been widely acclaimed for its gorgeous dress watches, Czapek has achieved global success with its integrated bracelet watches. Here, the tireless Xavier de Roquemaurel, CEO of Czapek & Cie., presents novelties like the Antarctique Revelation to Revolution Founder Wei Koh. In this video, you’ll also get to see new […]

Rolex Yacht-Master 42 Gets Full RLX Titanium Treatment Worn & Wound
Rolex Yacht-Master 42 Gets Full Mar 28, 2023

Rolex Yacht-Master 42 Gets Full RLX Titanium Treatment

In what may have been the most predicted move by Rolex in years, the use of their newly introduced RLX grade 5 titanium has taken a step into the Yacht-Master collection, something teased years ago by Sir Ben Ainslie in the form of a dateless prototype. We saw the first official use of the material in this Deepsea Challenge Sea-Dweller revealed earlier this year. The latest release welcomes the stuff within the Yacht-Master collection in the new 42mm reference 226627, and a few of the features we noticed in the Sea-Dweller have returned, tipping what may be titanium exclusive details.  Titanium is having some of a moment in recent years. We’ve seen its use spread from small independents and micro-brands like Boldr and Autodromo, now to the likes of Rolex. It may not be as exotic sounding as it once was, but we’re seeing it used in more inventive ways across the board, predominantly in how it’s finished. Just this year, while attending Watches & Wonders, we’ve learned of two particularly high end titanium watches that have had their production experience delays due to the difficult nature of finishing it to a certain standard. The finishing of this particular titanium watch is very Rolex, with relatively uniform satin brush graining throughout the 42mm case and bracelet, with a chamfer running the length of the lug line. That chamfer on the lug is one of the key details we noted on the titanium Deepsea as well, leading one to believe it could become a detail reserv...

The smoky, sultry green Santos de Cartier novelties Time+Tide
Cartier novelties Mar 28, 2023

The smoky, sultry green Santos de Cartier novelties

The Santos de Cartier is now available in Smoky Green The new green dials can be purchased in the 40mm Large or 35mm Medium sizes. The blue dial model previously only available in a Large size is now also available in Medium. The trend of releasing as many green dials as possible may have passed … ContinuedThe post The smoky, sultry green Santos de Cartier novelties appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS is an ultra-thin, luxe take on a sporty proposition Time+Tide
Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS Mar 27, 2023

The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS is an ultra-thin, luxe take on a sporty proposition

The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS honours the Alps further with a Monte Rosa inspired dial. The calibre L.U.C 96.40-L is only 3.3mm thick, with the watch totalling 8mm. It’s also the second of Chopard’s movements to be granted a Geneva Seal, the first being the Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon. If you want to see … ContinuedThe post The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS is an ultra-thin, luxe take on a sporty proposition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma Diamant d’Avant-Garde Chronograph Tourbillon adds more diamonds Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma Diamant d’Avant-Garde Mar 27, 2023

TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma Diamant d’Avant-Garde Chronograph Tourbillon adds more diamonds

TAG Heuer’s super avant-garde Plasma is back with even more diamonds The entire dial is a one-piece diamond plate with two smaller polycrystalline diamonds used for the sub-dials Powered by a tourbillon calibre with a carbon nanotube balance spring, its anti-magnetic properties are excellent Upon its initial release in 2022, the TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma … ContinuedThe post TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma Diamant d’Avant-Garde Chronograph Tourbillon adds more diamonds appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IWC Debuts Customisation for Portugieser Chronograph SJX Watches
IWC Debuts Customisation Mar 15, 2023

IWC Debuts Customisation for Portugieser Chronograph

With luxury brands vying to offer clients individuality in products, customised watches are now fairly common. The trend began at aftermarket providers, but establishment watchmakers are gradually making such offerings available beyond their highest-end clientele. The latest entrant is IWC with its Individualisation Service, a surprisingly straightforward customisation process that’s a first for a mainstream watch brand. Available at just two locations for now, the service allows clients to personalise a Portugieser Chronograph; anyone can walk into either of the IWC stores in Shanghai or Dubai and select a case material, match it with a variety of dials and straps, with the finished watch ready in about three weeks. The caveat: the customised watch costs an CHF1,500 over the retail price of the standard-production model. Initial thoughts Despite the clunky name, IWC’s Individualisation Service is definitely a welcome development since it’s a factory-official customised watch that is relatively accessible in price. Customisation is typically offered to only a brand’s biggest-spending clients, so this democratises the concept to a degree. Granted, it’s being trialed at just two locations, but it will surely be rolled out more widely once its commercial viability is proven. That said, the Individualisation Service has limitations. It allows clients to choose from a range of fixed options, rather than allowing free rein to tweak or redesign the watch. So if you...

Opinion: Watch Collecting in the Quantum Realm Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Feb 24, 2023

Opinion: Watch Collecting in the Quantum Realm

Possibly against my better judgment, I saw Ant-Man and the Wasp: Quantumania recently. While it’s not my least favorite Marvel movie, it was pretty bad, somehow finding a way to rob Paul Rudd of nearly all of his natural charm, and filled with special effects that look not very special at all. I found my mind drifting, wondering if any of these actors actually met each other during filming, or if production had them fly in separately to film in front of massive green screens. And, as it too frequently does, my thoughts turned to watches. Wondering, as my colleagues did a few weeks ago, if Rudd chose that Grand Seiko for himself at the Ant-Man premiere, and if there was a quantum reality where he might have chosen a different watch for himself altogether, and if maybe in that reality he plays Captain America instead, and the MCU movies weren’t in a state of perpetual decline.  The premise of Quantumania is actually interesting. Without getting too deep into the weeds, everything in the movie hinges on the quantum physics inspired idea that every decision point you encounter has infinite possibilities, and those possibilities play out in the “quantum realm.” That means new versions of you, and everyone you encounter, are constantly splitting off of your own perceived reality. This type of multiverse enabling storytelling is core to comic book mythologies, and seems to be playing out more frequently in this phase of Marvel films. In Quantumania, it means that in one ...

The IWC Portofino Complete Calendar features an exciting brand first Time+Tide
IWC Portofino Complete Calendar features Feb 20, 2023

The IWC Portofino Complete Calendar features an exciting brand first

New calendar module debuts in the IWC Portofino Complete Calendar Available in stainless steel or 18k 5N gold IWC also introduces a new Portofino Pointer Date in 39mm If I asked what the first watch you think of is when I say IWC, I wonder how many would name the Portofino. I certainly wouldn’t, but … ContinuedThe post The IWC Portofino Complete Calendar features an exciting brand first appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Meet my pet watch: Scientists create living smartwatch powered by slime Time+Tide
Feb 12, 2023

Meet my pet watch: Scientists create living smartwatch powered by slime

It’s probably a sign of just how much some people care about their watches, but timepieces have long been attributed human characteristics. I’ve often heard the movement of a watch described as its “beating heart”, while it’s also routine to talk about a watch’s “face” or “hands”.  Perhaps this is a natural development given that … ContinuedThe post Meet my pet watch: Scientists create living smartwatch powered by slime appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Five reasons to buy the new issue of NOW, the Time+Tide watch-buying guide Time+Tide
Feb 4, 2023

Five reasons to buy the new issue of NOW, the Time+Tide watch-buying guide

What time is it? Time to get a watch. That’s the reason we assemble Time+Tide’s NOW magazine, a watch-buying guide that curates the top watch releases of the last six months (207 of them to be precise).  In addition, you’ll also get a killer assortment of features that delve into what makes some of the most … ContinuedThe post Five reasons to buy the new issue of NOW, the Time+Tide watch-buying guide appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.