Deployant
New with Reviewed: Blancpain Grande Double Sonnerie (video)
We were invited to Le Brassus to see the unveiling of the latest, ultra complicated watch from Blancpain: the new Blancpain Grande Double Sonnerie.
Results for The 1969 Automatic Chronograph Race
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Deployant
SJX Watches
In-Depth: Blancpain Grande Double Sonnerie
Blancpain has just unveiled its most complex modern-day watch, the Grande Double Sonnerie, to mark its 190th anniversary. This CHF1.7 million grand complication signals Blancpain’s return to the highest tier of haute horlogerie. One of the most technically ambitious chiming wristwatches ever made, the Grande Double Sonnerie incorporates traditional complications: grande and petite sonnerie, minute repeater, flying tourbillon, and retrograde perpetual calendar, but also offers an unexpected twist with two distinct chiming melodies, a Westminster chime plus a a bespoke sequence composed for Blancpain by Eric Singer of rock band Kiss. Initial thoughts It has been some time since Blancpain unveiled a truly headline-grabbing complication. The manufacture made its name in this arena with the 1735 of 1991, but in the decades since, its output has leaned toward more conventional high-end offerings - perpetual calendars, tourbillons, carrousels, and chiming watches - while its commercial momentum has come largely from the Fifty Fathoms and Villeret triple calendar. The unexpected Grande Double Sonnerie is therefore a reminder of what Blancpain can do at the very top level of watchmaking. The Le Brassus-based manufacture tends to be overlooked when speaking of high horology today, but the Grande Double Sonnerie should remind enthusiasts how sure-footed Blancpain is in this regard. Even before considering the many complexities of the timepiece, the watch impresses from the fir...
SJX Watches
Highlights: Complications on Bracelets at Christie’s Hong Kong
The uniform of high complications almost invariably includes a leather strap; a metal bracelet remains an uncommon pairing with, say, a grande sonnerie. Christie’s upcoming Hong Kong auction, however, brings an unexpected abundance of complicated watches on bracelets for collectors who prefer metal, including notable examples from Patek Philippe and A. Lange & Söhne. This season’s sale is anchored by two major private collections, most prominently the second part of The Chronicle Collection, the first half of which was dispersed earlier in the spring. The consignor began collecting in the 1990s, a fact reflected in the depth of neo-vintage highlights throughout the catalogue. Lot 2442 - Patek Philippe ref. 3448⁄8 with Possibly Unique Ruby Dial The Patek Philippe ref. 3448 was the first self-winding perpetual calendar produced in series. According to movement numbers, it is likely 586 were made in total - this lug-less example was one of the first made. Beyond its historical interest, the ref. 3448 is underpinned by one of – if not the – most beautiful automatic movements ever made: the cal. 27-460 Q. Looks aside, it was one of the most technically competent automatics of its era, with an overcoil hairspring, free-sprung balance, and bi-directional winding using a cam and pawl system. Atop this worthy base calibre, the ref. 3448 adds the iconic windows perpetual calendar by none other than Victorin Piguet. The ‘/8’ in ref. 3448/8 suffix denotes the style ...
Fratello
Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M Vs. Rolex Submariner Ref. 124060
Welcome to another installment of Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, we put the new Omega Planet Ocean 600M to work. We’re not giving it an easy start to life, pitting it against the mighty Rolex Submariner “No-Date” ref. 124060. Jorg has the honor of defending the new Omega, while Thomas sides with the Rolex. Now, […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M Vs. Rolex Submariner Ref. 124060 to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Staff Picks for Black Friday
The post Staff Picks for Black Friday appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
Dubai Watch Week 2025 Special: new releases from Laurent Ferrier, Biver, MB&F; and more
With over 90 brands at Dubai Watch Week this year, there were plenty of hot new releases, with soft gold tones leading the way.The post Dubai Watch Week 2025 Special: new releases from Laurent Ferrier, Biver, MB&F; and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Sky & DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT
At Dubai Watch Week 2025, De Bethune unveiled the DB25 Perpetual Sky and the DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT, a striking showcase of the brand’s dual identity.
Fratello
Introducing: Two New Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Watches In Distinctive Copper Hues
Jaeger-LeCoultre has a reputation for revered watchmaking, all within a single facility in Le Sentier, in the Vallée de Joux. For 2025, La Grande Maison unveils two new Master Ultra Thin timepieces. Both feature a soft, almost terracotta-like shade of copper. The grainy texture also lends the aesthetic a touch of ruggedness. Yet, the playful […] Visit Introducing: Two New Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Watches In Distinctive Copper Hues to read the full article.
Hodinkee
It's Complicated: A Vacheron Constantin Overseas And Losing A Fight Against Hamburgers
How Guest Editor Eddie Huang found peace with a Vacheron QP while the menu for his new restaurant forced an existential crisis.
Time+Tide
Dubai Watch Week 2025 is on a whole other level
Zach reports on the intense heat in the UAE - and we're not just talking about the weather... The post Dubai Watch Week 2025 is on a whole other level appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Fratello’s Top 5 Late Highlights Of 2025 - Featuring Grand Seiko, Lebois & Co, Nomos, And More…
Another Friday, another list! This week, we shine the spotlight on five recent highlights that may make it onto our year-end lists. Just when you thought 2025 was coming to an end, we have seen some amazing new watches. With Dubai Watch Week, the horological calendar has an event late in the year that is […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Late Highlights Of 2025 - Featuring Grand Seiko, Lebois & Co, Nomos, And More… to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Highlights: Complicated Patek Philippe at Christie’s Hong Kong
Christie’s Hong Kong returns this autumn with an extraordinary offering of rare and important Patek Philippe watches, headlined by a ref. 1518 in yellow gold. The auction is defined by two major private collections, most notably Part 2 of The Chronicle Collection - the successor to this spring’s successful first chapter. From neo-vintage rarities to heavyweight modern complications, the sale presents one of the of the most interesting Patek Philippe selections of the season. Lot 2225 – Patek Philippe Ref. 3979HJ Minute Repeater The story of Patek Philippe’s mastery of the modern minute repeater begins in 1989 with the launch of the ref. 3979 and the calibre R 27 PS. Launched to commemorate the brand’s 150th anniversary, the ref. 3979 was the brand’s first automatic minute repeater, and its first wristwatch to feature a silent centripetal governor, which was still novel at the time. According to the serial number, the present lot was the 47th ref. 3979 to be made, out of approximately 100 units produced over a nine year run. Further distinguishing the current lot is its classical enamel dial, which was a relatively uncommon configuration for this reference. The compact 33 mm yellow gold case is a love letter to classical dress watches. The case itself was made by Ateliers Rèunis, the brand’s own case maker, and was manufactured in the building that now houses the Patek Philippe museum. Today, more than 35 years after its launch, the cal. R 27 PS is still am...
Worn & Wound
WU25 Panel: Windup Watch Fair Turns 10
Time flies when you’re having fun. It’s hard to believe that Windup Watch Fair has had 10 trips around the sun, but this special anniversary deserves a proper roundtable and retrospective. Worn & Wound co-founder and CEO Blake Malin hosts a fantastic panel of fellow leaders, many of whom were there for the very first Windup. It’s a chat you won’t want to miss. View the discussion in its entirety on YouTube or read some excerpts from this enjoyable toast below. Happy 10th birthday, Windup Watch Fair! The following conversations have been lightly edited for brevity and clarity. On looking back 10 years: Blake: Hello and welcome to the Wind-Up Watch Fair. I’m Blake, one of the co-founders of Worn & Wound. I’ve been working on this Wind-Up thing for the past 10 years, and it’s incredibly humbling to have all of you here. Thank you for making Wind-Up what it is today. This is going to be a special conversation. The folks on stage represent many of the brands that were at the very first Wind-Up 10 years ago. They took a chance on an unproven event and helped shape what it’s become. So before we begin, let’s give them a round of applause. We’re going to talk about what Wind-Up was like 10 years ago, how things have changed, and maybe what the next 10 years will look like. We’ll also take questions from the audience. Let me introduce everyone on stage. Andy Felsey, CEO of Haraj. Andrew Perez, founder of Astern Banks. Bradley Price, president and creative dire...
Time+Tide
ArtyA wows Dubai Watch Week 2025 with a world-first four-colour sapphire diver
Sapphire-sculpting artisans ArtyA have taken the wraps off a pair of extra special full-sapphire dive watches for Dubai Watch Week 2025.The post ArtyA wows Dubai Watch Week 2025 with a world-first four-colour sapphire diver appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Best of Both Worlds: Ulysse Nardin x Urwerk UR-Freak
The Ulysse Nardin UR-Freak brings together two of contemporary watchmaking’s most inventive forces. A collaboration between Ulysse Nardin and Urwerk, it merges the Freak’s revolving-movement architecture with Urwerk’s signature wandering hours display to create something that feels both inevitable and extraordinary. The partnership amplifies the strengths of each brand: Ulysse Nardin’s mastery of silicon technology and mechanical architecture, and Urwerk’s futuristic approach to time display. More than a meeting of aesthetics, the UR-Freak unites two brands that have long challenged convention. Both rose to prominence around the turn of the millennium by rewriting mechanical rules-Ulysse Nardin with its revolutionary 2001 Freak, and Urwerk with its satellite-hour timepieces that reimagined a traditional complication. Two decades later, their paths converge with a 100-piece limited edition in sandblasted titanium. Initial thoughts Some collaborations seem obvious in hindsight; the Ulysse Nardin UR-Freak is one of them. The collaboration plays to the strengths of both brands, with Urwerk’s signature wandering hours display plugging seamlessly into the UN Freak architecture. It turns out that Urwerk’s signature satellite wandering hours display feels right at home grafted onto Uylsse Nardin’s flagship. Frankly, they could have left it at that and called it a day. But the fact is Ulysse Nardin went the extra step to reimagine the Freak’s signature flying to...
Time+Tide
Urwerk and Ulysse Nardin team up for an unexpected collaboration we really should’ve expected
The Urwerk x Ulysse Nardin UR-Freak blends signature time-telling and technology elements from both avant-garde brands in a very natural way.The post Urwerk and Ulysse Nardin team up for an unexpected collaboration we really should’ve expected appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Bulgari Mattar Bin Lahej x Octo Finissimo
The brand re-envisions what an Emirati collab can look like, with impressive results.
Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor Ranger Review: New 36mm Case And "Dune" White Dial
Along with their more refined timepieces, Swiss luxury brands have staked their claim in the field watch space as well. Tudor’s offering in the category is the contemporary 39mm Ranger, a name that features prominently throughout the brand's history. Descended from the 1950s Tudor Oyster Prince Reference 7909, Tudor introduced the 34mm Ranger Reference 7995 in 1965, with the model name remaining in the lineup all the way through the 1980s. It was the 7995 that established the Ranger’s design language, with its 12-3- 6-9 dial layout and iconic spade hour hand, all of which later made a comeback in 2014 in a somewhat oversized 41mm version. The Ranger got a reboot in 2022 as a 39mm model, with a fully brushed case and COSC-certified MT5402 movement, and it serves as not only a nod to Tudor field watches of yore, but also as a throwback to the tool-watch aesthetics of the Rolex Explorer 1016 from Tudor's parent brand. Released in July of 2022 to mark the 70th anniversary of the British North Greenland Expedition, the modern Ranger 79950 is a welcome update from that discontinued 41mm model of 2014. With a versatile 39mm case and a COSC-certified manufacture movement, the Ranger is a strong value play, hovering around $3,500 on the bracelet. Much like the vintage Ranger (and the original Rolex Explorer that provided much of its DNA), it’s a fantastic daily driver, with a fully satin-brushed finish and 100 meters of water resistance. And if you crave a more authentic tool...
Monochrome
Introducing - Audemars Piguet Unveils an Innovative Setting Device for its RO Perpetual
Perpetual calendars are one of the most fascinating and elegant complications. Their sophisticated mechanism automatically adjusts the date throughout the year, accounting for the varying lengths of months and the leap year cycle, eliminating the need for manual correction. Yet one challenge is that if your watch stops, resetting it can be complicated, often requiring […]
Time+Tide
Teddy Baldassarre unveils his first-ever collaboration watch: a special edition Brew Metric
US-based microbrand Brew partners with influential content creator and watch retailer Teddy Baldassarre on a very special edition Metric.The post Teddy Baldassarre unveils his first-ever collaboration watch: a special edition Brew Metric appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Chopard’s Striking Vision Fully Realised - L.U.C Grand Strike
Chopard marks 30 years of the Chopard Manufacture with the L.U.C Grand Strike – its most ambitious complication to date, a minute repeating clock watch with grande et petite sonnerie striking on a pair of sapphire gongs. This comes on the heels of Chopard’s sister brand, Ferdinand Berthoud’s Naissance d’une Montre 3, making 2025 arguably the most significant year for Chopard, product wise, since the 1997 launch of L.U.C. Initial Thoughts For hundreds of years the sound of clocks coordinated human society. In fact, the very word “clock” comes from the Latin word clocca, meaning bell. Before the noise pollution of the modern day, the bells of clock towers could disseminate accurate time over several miles. It is only that many first complicated the first watches, which were made by clock makers during the 16th century, were equipped with strikes. In 2016 Chopard launched its first self-developed chiming watch, the L.U.C Full Strike, a two-train trip repeater with sapphire gongs. It is not much of a surprise, I’ve multiple people speculate that a grande sonnerie was the next step given the design depictions Chopard made with the Full Strike. Even the name, “Full Strike” sounds like the name of a grande sonnerie, not just a repeater. The Grand Strike is class leading technically, it’s only weakness, the middling strike work power reserve is easily forgiven when considering its size. Aesthetically, however, the watch struggles, at least for me, though the si...
SJX Watches
Highlights: Magnificent Matched Sets at Phillips Hong Kong
Matching sets are a motif of Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong auction, with the most spectacular being the Concord Saratoga Splendour, a set of four minute repeating, high jewellery wristwatches representing the four precious stones – diamond, sapphire, ruby and emerald – each with a distinct movement made by Christophe Claret. Also on offer is a set of three watches from Glashütte Original with Meissen porcelain dials, and a Patek Philippe Pagoda quartet. Lot 857, a matching pair of Bovets depicting Hong Kong harbour by day and by night. Image – Phillips Such sets enjoyed popularity at the top end of the market during the 1980s and 1990s, often centred around the four precious coloured stones, diamonds, emeralds, rubies, and sapphires. Perhaps the ultimate example of the matched set is the most complicated Patek Philippe watch, the Calibre 89, that was originally launched as a set of four in yellow, rose, and white gold, and platinum. Unfortunately, many of these sets have since been split up. Can these three escape that fate? Lots 858 to 862 – Concord Saratoga Splendour Set Concord was one of a few brands that saw great, but ephemeral, success during the 1980s and 1990s, in the same vein as Gerald Genta, Ebel, and Corum. In 1995 Concord launched the Saratoga Exor, a minute repeating tourbillon with perpetual calendar and bimetallic thermometer, set with 15.85 carats of baguette diamonds. With a price tag of CHF2 million, it was probably the second most expensive w...
Worn & Wound
Zenith Introduces a Limited Edition Defy Extreme with a Lapis Lazuli Dial
I love the Zenith Defy. I never miss an opportunity to tell people that it’s my favorite sports watch line of all time. I’m guessing that I’ve had a version of this conversation so many times over the years that my colleagues and watch-friends can feel it coming at this point. I can sense that eye roll is not far behind me going over once again how the Defy has always represented the ideal meeting place between the avant-garde and true sports watch engineering. Look, I make no apologies. If you can’t see that the Defy has been a subtle influence on everything from the Royal Oak to the most generic Rolex sports watches, well, stay tuned for my long threatened multi-part solo podcast series unpacking my personal obsession with these watches. One of the things that has always fascinated me about the Defy is how it can be anything. The watches in this collection have never fit neatly into a specific mold, and unlike, say, the Rolex Submariner, which has basically looked like the same watch since its debut, the Defy has always been a shapeshifter. The only thing steady about the design has been that it could always morph and change into something radical and different, and often something that is not to everyone’s taste (even longtime fans of the collection). That’s basically what’s been on my mind since learning of the new Zenith Defy Extreme Lapis Lazuli, a maximal take on the sports watch that latches on to some current trends. This is a Defy Extreme, so it...
Time+Tide
Omega debuts its 4th generation of slimmer and sharper Seamaster Planet Ocean
A slimmer, sleeker case is the major change in the new 4th generation of Omega's legendary Seamaster Planet Ocean.The post Omega debuts its 4th generation of slimmer and sharper Seamaster Planet Ocean appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
This Approachable 38mm Dive Watch Goes Toe-to-Toe With Bigger-Name Alternatives
The Certina Action Diver 38mm gets subtle upgrades for 2025, including fresh materials and refined styling.
Worn & Wound
Teddy Baldassarre Launches His First Watch Collaboration: a Brew Metric
Teddy Baldassarre is a name that likely needs little context or introduction for many in our audience. What began as a YouTube channel focused on a discussion of watches has grown into a great deal more over the last several years. Teddy is an authorized retailer of over 50 brands, and has opened a flagship boutique in his home city of Cleveland, OH. He and his growing team are also a regular presence at industry watch events, where they provide coverage and insight on everything happening in a rapidly changing industry. Up until today, however, there was one right of passage in our shared watch ecosystem that they had not yet taken part in: the special edition collaborative watch. That changes today with the launch of the Brew Metric Teddy Baldassarre Edition. Brew, for their part, is no stranger to the collaboration game. We’ve partnered with Brew ourselves on a handful of limited edition releases, including the “Lumint” from earlier this year. A Brew collaboration is always an interesting endeavor because brand founder Jonathan Ferrer’s designs can take on so many different forms and personalities with small changes to color, texture, and tone. For the Teddy Baldassarre Edition of the Metric, Teddy and Jonathan have chosen to experiment with tones of blue. The dial is a dark, nearly navy shade of blue, and the tone alternates from light to dark across the subdials and handset. There are a number of other little details on this edition that have been tweake...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Tudor Black Bay vs Omega Seamaster: Years Of Testing, One Clear Winner
Torn between the Tudor Black Bay and Omega Seamaster? We’ve worn, tested, and lived with both and here’s how they really stack up in comfort, specs, and value.
SJX Watches
Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne’s Saxonia Thin Onyx is German Formal
One of the last launches of 2025 for A. Lange & Söhne, the Saxonia Thin Onyx is a riff on the brand’s most affordable and simplest watch. It’s only modestly different from the standard model – the dial is onyx stone while the case metal isn’t part of regular production – but the Saxonia Thin Onyx stands out. The watch is almost the dictionary definition of a formal-wear timepiece: flat, two hands and minimal colour or embellishment, so much so it blends into conventional Western formal dress. In fact, this is one of the strongest offerings in the formal-dress-watch segment because it is stark, elegant, and priced well. Initial thoughts Lange tend towards the high end of the price spectrum simply because of the brand’s focus on complications and quality. And the brand has also raised retail prices significantly in the last few years. So an affordable-ish Lange that isn’t a run-of-the-mill watch is a good thing. The Saxonia Thin Onyx is exactly that. While it is based on Lange’s entry-level dress watch, a fine but no frills timepiece, the onyx edition is different in look, feel, and materials. It’s available in two metals not offered for the regular production – platinum and Honeygold – and the dial is of course onyx, a mineral stone used sparingly (so far) in limited editions. At 6.2 mm high, the case is half the thickness of a Datograph and sits flat against the wrist. Though the case is 40 mm rather than the smaller size offered for the standard mod...
Worn & Wound
WU25 Panel: Worn & Wound Contributors Discuss Trends and Watch Culture
Without Worn & Wound, there is no Windup Watch Fair, and this panel comprises W&W; contributors Brett Braley-Palko, Meg Tocci, and Griffin Bartsch as they discuss the state of watch collecting, shifting and emerging trends, and adjacent hobbies. It’s a lively conversation moderated by Director of Editorial at Worn & Wound, Zach Kazan, and a fantastic conversation about how passion and perspectives keep watch culture strong. A video of the full talk and Q&A; is below; a transcript is also provided for those who want to read the highlights. The following conversation has been lightly edited for brevity and clarity. Zach Kazan: Hello, everyone. Thanks for coming to the first panel of day two of the Wind-Up Watch Fair in New York City. I’m Zach Kazan, Director of Editorial at Worn & Wound, and I’m really happy to be moderating this panel. I’ve wanted to do a panel like this for a long time-just getting contributors together to talk about their interest in watches and how working in watch media influences their collecting and view on the hobby. I’m lucky to have three great contributors here who were willing to participate and humor me a bit. We have Griffin Bartsch, contributor for Worn & Wound. Griffin, thanks for being here. Griffin Bartsch: My pleasure. I try not to miss a Wind-Up. Zach Kazan: Your attendance has been duly noted and appreciated. We also have Brett Braley-Palko, who’s working the Estabrook booth in the EDC area of the show. Brett, great to have y...
SJX Watches
Tokyo Retailer Shellman Celebrates Christiaan Huygens
In order to mark the spiral hairspring’s 350th anniversary and celebrate its inventor Christiaan Huygens (1629 – 1695), Japanese watch retailer Shellman presents a two-week exhibition event in Tokyo, The Origins of Time = Astronomy. Opening November 19 and slated to run through December 2, the Shellman exhibit is a collaboration with the Musée International d’Horlogerie (MIH) in La Chaux-de-Fonds, and showcases the larger extent of Huygens’ work, from horology to optical observation devices. Themed around the Dutch scientist credited with building the first pendulum clock and with inventing the hairspring, the exhibit also explores larger fields of horology, with a focus on astronomy and modern independent watchmaking. Original drawings showing early attempts at making a sprung balance. Beyond his practical applications in horology, Huygens left marks on many other scientific fields, from geometry to physics and astronomy. He notably discovered Saturn’s largest moon Titan and cemented the wave theory of light propagation. One could say that he was interested in the celestial bodies as much as he was in understanding motion and measuring time here on Earth. In his honour, the exhibit leans on the astronomical theme as well. The exhibition is accompanied by a selection of special watches available for sale. Visitors will have the chance to acquire the world’s smallest wristwatch planetarium, the Planetarium Christiaan Huygens Limited Edition, created by the Du...