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New: Speake Marin Openworked Sandblasted in titanium and red gold
For the 2023 season, Speake Marin expands their Openworked collection with four new references (2 case sizes) in titanium and red gold.
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For the 2023 season, Speake Marin expands their Openworked collection with four new references (2 case sizes) in titanium and red gold.
Time+Tide
With a sandblasted dial and movement finish, the new Speake-Marin Openworked is a nod to classic watchmaking techniques.The post Speake-Marin’s Openworked Sandblasted brings back a traditional look appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
One of the most anticipated watches by an independent watchmaker to go under the hammer this season has set a record: the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain I (RRCCI) in pink gold sold at Phillips’ Hong Kong auction for HK$7.24 million including fees, equivalent to US$924,000. Notable for being in an ordinary, as opposed to charity, auction, the result of almost US$1.0 million puts its maker, the founder of Akrivia, in rarefied company alongside the likes of F.P. Journe, the only other independent watchmakers whose time-only watches can sell for such sums. The RRCCI that just sold was the first example of the model to emerge at auction, with only one other example having sold on the secondary market but privately. With the watch already sold out and a long waiting list for its successor, the RRCCII, there were high expectations for the watch at Phillips, which originally retailed for under US$70,000. Everyone’s on it The excitement as the lot came up was palpable. Auctioneer Aurel Bacs commented that so many bidders were phoning in that every Phillips employee on the phone bank was on the line. Although there were at least a half dozen bidders to start with – all on the phone save for one room bidder – the contenders thinned out at the HK$4.00 million mark. Remaining were just three bidders: Alex Ghotbi and Tiffany To of Phillips on the phones with clients, and the gentleman at the back of the room. Both based in Geneva, Mr Ghotbi and Ms To were presumably re...
Quill & Pad
The Ferdinand Berthoud Chronométre FB 3SPC represents an entirely new collection and a core part of the Ferdinand Berthoud ideology, impeccable horology based on the history of the brand’s namesake, all built to the highest modern standards. The FB 3SPC is a stunning journey into horological history.
Quill & Pad
Simon Brette is a young movement designer with a history of working with Jean-François Mojon’s Chronode, MCT, and MB&F;, who has now begun his own adventure of pushing the boundaries of traditional haute horlogerie. Brette launches his eponymous brand with the Chronomètre Artisans Subscription Edition, which sold out long before launch.
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A new independent emerges. Introducing the Simon Brette Chronomètre Artisans Subscription Edition. A 12 piece limited edition, which is sold out at release.
Time+Tide
Whenever a new watch is introduced, there’s usually an aspect of the design that jumps out, whether it’s a stunning dial, unique case architecture, or a gorgeous movement. And sometimes, you find all three in one watch. The new Speake-Marin Ripples Date is that watch. This release remixes the multi-angled razzle-dazzle that you find in … ContinuedThe post Speake-Marin introduces a new date complication to their breathtaking Ripples collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Discover the new novelties of Speake-Marin together with Jeremiah Chan, Deputy Digital Editor of Revolution. Jeremiah describes the trademark design codes of this cult brand, and how the various features of the Speake-Marin Ripples Blue Jeans, Speake-Marin Ripples Date and Speake-Marin Academic are achieved through different intricate processes.
SJX Watches
Highly regarded for its artisanal movement finish, Atelier de Chronométrie relied entirely on vintage movements that were rebuilt and then decorated by hand. Now the brand finally has a movement to call its own with the M284. Vintage inspired like its timepieces, the M284 is a hand-wind calibre that makes its debut inside the AdC22 wristwatch. Initial thoughts AdC started out with watches that were equipped with refinished vintage movements that were beautifully decorated but not quite original enough to be special. The new proprietary movement – which has both fine finishing and tasteful design – elevates the brand to another level entirely. The classical layout, frequency, and short power reserve of just 38 hours seem to imply that the movement might be derived from a vintage ebauche, or at least built according to the architecture of a vintage movement. However, AdC states that the movement is a new construction done with the help of a specialist. Regardless of its origins, the M284 is a calibre executed well both in terms of design and decoration, as would be expected given AdC’s past work. Having examined several of prior AdC watches in detail, I imagine the M284 is finished extremely well and certainly on part with equivalent offerings from contemporary independent watchmakers. But AdC has the advantage of Mr Martinez’s aesthetic sensibility, which is perhaps even rarer than good movement decoration today. The design is clearly vintage inspired, but with sub...
Time+Tide
When an anniversary comes along for a brand, it is almost obligatory for them to release a special-edition watch – which is great news for us. The Speake-Marin Ripples watch made waves upon its debut as the brand’s first entry into the steel-sports category. In celebration of their 20th anniversary, we now have 50 pieces … ContinuedThe post Speake-Marin celebrates their 20th anniversary with a gold dial Ripples Anniversary Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Video
Previously, the Speake-Marin catalogue was limited to dressier timepieces outfitted on straps. Recently, however, Speake-Marin unveiled their first foray into the immensely popular integrated stainless-steel sports category with their new Ripples design. The 50 metre water-resistant stainless-steel case effectively presents a large circular dial within a cushion format. While 40.3mm in diameter, because the dial … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Speake Marin makes waves with new Ripples watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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In celebration of the manufacture’s 175th anniversary, Ulysse Nardin “Chronometry since 1846” exhibition showcasing innovation of the maison.
SJX Watches
The first Chronomètre Contemporain was the watch that vaulted Rexhep Rexhepi into the top league of independent watchmaking. Now the young watchmaker has debuted the followup, first as a unique example for Only Watch 2021. The Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II (RRCC II) resembles its predecessor inside and out, yet is entirely different in every aspect, from movement construction to the geometry of the lugs. But what it does share with the RRCC I is a gorgeously finished movement and thoughtful design. Initial thoughts On the face of it, the RRCC II for Only Watch looks like the original Chronometre Contemporain dressed in another dial. But it is entirely new in practically every aspect, right down to the geometry of the case. The RRCC II is akin to a generation of the Porsche 911 – the styling seems unchanged but it is actually a brand new car. The most obvious point of difference is the seconds hand – the RRCC II is a deadbeat seconds. That in itself is novel, because the jumping seconds complication is almost always implemented with a centre seconds. In fact, I can’t think of another watch with a deadbeat subsidiary seconds that isn’t part of another complication. In F.P. Journe’s tourbillon for instance, the deadbeat seconds is part of the constant force mechanism. Even the movement appears superficially similar, though it is quickly evident that it’s a new calibre solely from the two large jewels for the barrel pivots. This has twin barrels, in...
SJX Watches
What can one infer from a drawing of a new timepiece? As it turns out, a fair bit. The below sketch is the only bit of information revealed by Akrivia for its contribution to Only Watch 2021, the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II (RRCCII). Despite the paucity of information, much can still be deduced from the single image. Initial impressions The most apparent fact that can be gleaned the sketch is a deadbeat seconds – a seconds hand that jumps discretely once a second. We can infer this from the star and flirt mechanism. The star is mounted on the escape wheel, which is located at six o’clock and completes a revolution once every five seconds. The star blocks the rotation of a flirt, a long lever that presses against the face of the star’s teeth. After each second, the star rotates far enough that the tooth provides enough clearance to release the flirt, allowing the star to rotate until the flirt contacts the next tooth of the star. This sudden release of the flirt is what controls the burst of rotational energy that drives the deadbeat second geartrain. Further inferences can be made from our May 2020 chat with Rexhep, where he hinted the RRCCII will have twin barrels powering separate going trains. In retrospect, that now makes sense in the context of the deadbeat seconds. One barrel drives the going train for timekeeping, including the escape wheel and the star. The other barrel drives a secondary gear train for the deadbeat seconds hand and the flirt...
Revolution
For 2021, Panerai powers ahead with an update on its iconic Bronzo and the launch of its Luminor Marina eSteel watches made using recycled steel
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Quill & Pad
With the Chronomètre FB 2RE, Ferdinand Berthoud takes a very big step in the right direction with a more traditional round case and a movement that features a remontoir d'egalite alongside a chain-and-fusée assembly. And the finishing cannot be described as anything other than simply sublime.
SJX Watches
In a year that’s been short on really exciting watches, a contender for watch of the year – or more specifically, movement of the year – has just been unveiled by Ferdinand Berthoud. Equipped with both a remontoir d’egalite as well as chain and fusee, the Chronomètre FB 2RE is a strikingly impressive example of contemporary watchmaking inspired by the past. More importantly, it features a movement that’s executed to an immensely high standard, one that is just wonderful to look at. At the same, the round-cased FB 2RE also addresses the primary shortcoming of the earlier Ferdinand Berthoud FB1, namely its odd aesthetics due to the case shape. Initial thoughts I have always been impressed by Ferdinand Berthoud watches, though I was never a fan of its octagon case. And based on my conversations with collectors, I was not the only one hoping for a more conventional case shape. Now it has arrived, and the FB 2RE does not disappoint. I managed to examine the finished watch up close several months ago, and the quality of execution, inside and out, is remarkable. The movement certainly holds its own against the very best of the independent watchmakers, like Greubel Forsey for instance. It is that good. My first thought when I saw the watch: it is certainly a project driven by passion, rather than sensible commercial instinct, one reason, perhaps, it is so good. Not only is it extremely well made and esoteric in its mechanical features, the FB 2RE will be made in tiny ...
Deployant
We take a look at the AdC #88, a time-only watch first introduced in 2018 by Barcelona-based independent watchmaker Atelier de Chronométrie.
Revolution
The emblematic watch of F.P. Journe, the Chronomètre à Résonance, celebrates its 20th anniversary this year with a brand new movement.
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F. P. Journe celebrates 20 years of the Chronomètre à Résonance with a new rendition of the resonance watch, with a new movement - the caliber 1520.
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SJX Watches
Backed by Chopard and taking the name of a noted 18th century French watchmaker, Ferdinand Berthoud made its debut in 2015 with the Chronomètre FB 1. Though unusual in style with an octagonal case, the FB 1 boasts an impressively constructed movement developed and manufactured by the same facility responsible for Chopard’s top-of-the-line L.U.C calibres; the project was the brainchild of Chopard co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele. At its core the FB 1 is an elaborate – and delightfully anachronistic – tribute to 18th century marine chronometers inside and out. The subject of four patents, the unusual calibre is very much antiquarian horology; it is constructed with pillar-style architecture and contains a chain-and-fusée, feeler-and-cone power reserve mechanism, and a large tourbillon with central seconds. Since the debut of the FB 1, there have been as many as ten subsequent variations – which is probably too many but it doesn’t diminish from the intrinsic, technical qualities of the watch – with one of the most recent being the Chronomètre FB 1 “Oeuvre d’Or” launched last year. Mechanically identical to the other iterations, the Oeuvre d’Or is distinguished by extra decoration, namely an engraved and grained gold dial as well as gold movement bridges engraved with a repeating pyramid motif. The Oeuvre d’Or FB 1.1-2 in white gold A tribute to marine chronometry Modern day Berthoud watches are inspired by the works of its 18th century namesak...
SJX Watches
Independent watchmakers are a major presence at Only Watch 2019, accounting for almost half the 50 lots in the charity auction coming. Importantly, two of them will probably end up in the top five by value – the F.P. Journe Astronomic Blue and the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain “Only Watch”. While the Astronomic Blue is the most complicated wristwatch F.P. Journe has ever made, the Chronomètre Contemporain “Only Watch” is a time-only watch, with a suitably modest estimate of 40,000-60,000 Swiss francs, though it’ll probably sell for five to seven times the low estimate. Hammered, and enamelled The key element that sets the “Only Watch” edition apart from the standard Chronomètre Contemporain is the dial. Completely unique because of the technique – used here for the first time in an Akrivia watch – the dial combines the surfaces finish of Akrivia’s two distinct collections: the hand-hammered decoration of the contemporary AK line and the vitreous enamel of the classic Rexhep Rexhepi range, named after the brand’s founder. Several attempts were required to get a perfect dial – Rexhep showed me one of the rejects with a cloudy finish in September – but the result is quietly impressive. Note that it is hammered and then enamelled, but not hammered enamel. Ordinarily a new dial colour doesn’t mean very much, but because the Chronomètre Contemporain regarded, and Rexhep has kept his promise not to do variations or custom orders of th...
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Watchcapes: Featuring the F. Berthoud Chronomètre FB 1.4-4 "Night Star" for Only Watch 2019 - with wallpaper sized images and details on the watch.
SJX Watches
On a recent trip to Geneva I dropped by the Akrivia workshops in the city’s Old Town and spotted the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain “Only Watch”, still in its constituent parts and almost ready for assembly. The dial, however, was finished and gorgeous. It’s a serene grey-blue, made of translucent enamel over a hand-hammered dial plate. Produced with lots of careful effort and a tiny hammer, the hammered finish is usually only applied to Akrivia’s gold dials found on the AK series watches, and is being combined with enamel for the first, and probably only, time. It was a tedious process to get right, which is why the Akrivia is one of the last to be completed amongst the Only Watch line-up. Produced by the same Geneva enamel artisan that does the fired enamel, or grand feu, dials of the standard watch, this dial for the Only Watch example is the second one made, hence “version 2” on its packaging. Rexhep felt the first dial made was not up to scratch – it had too much variation in colour – and had a second one produced. And the first dial was finished only after a handful of trial runs, where it was established that the thinning effect of the hammered surface meant it could not be counter-enamelled on the back as the standard dials are. Aside from the hammered surface, the dial is also unique because the markings are painted in fired enamel, rather than printed. This makes the numbers, lines and text more substantial. And because the ena...
Revolution
The latest Panerai Luminor Marina debuts a new dial in brushed steel, and it’s a stunner.
Video
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