Revolution
Baring It All: Chanel’s New J12 X-Ray
With a case and bracelet that is almost entirely made out of sapphire, it’s clear that Chanel’s new J12 watch is here to amaze.
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Revolution
SJX Watches
Chanel Introduces the J12 X-Ray
To mark the 20th anniversary of the J12, Chanel is premiering not one but two epic versions of the iconic ceramic watch. While the first features a striking two-colour ceramic case, the second is perhaps the ultimate J12. Rendered entirely in clear sapphire – case, bracelet, and movement – the J12 X-Ray is delicate, extravagant and novel. Clear and second only to diamond in hardness, sapphire is also fragile and susceptible to chipping, cracking or shattering. Its properties are similar to that of ceramic, the defining material of the J12, except more extreme. As it is with Chanel’s ceramic cases, the sapphire parts of the J12 X-Ray are made by Chanel subsidiary G&F; Chatelain, a case maker that has produced sapphire cases for another Chanel-owned brand, Bell & Ross. Measuring 38mm wide, the case is machined from a single sapphire block and topped by a white gold bezel set with baguette-cut diamonds. Similarly, the dial is also sapphire, and fitted with a minute track and hands in white gold. All of the hour markers, on the other hand, are baguette-cut diamonds. Sapphire bridges and links And beneath the sapphire dial – which also doubles up as the movement base plate – is the Caliber 3.1. Derived from the rectangular, skeletonised Caliber 3 found in the in the Boy-Friend Skeleton, the Caliber 3.1 is hand-wound with all of its moving parts secured by sapphire bridges, which allows the movement to be seen from the front and back. The pivots of the gears of the go...
SJX Watches
Chanel Introduces the J12 Paradoxe
Having given the J12 a thorough revamp last year, Chanel has just dropped the most astonishing iteration of its signature watch in the lead-up to Baselworld 2020 – the J12 Paradoxe. Conceived to mark the 20th anniversary of the iconic watch, the J12 Paradoxe looks like a digitally doctored timepiece at first glance. In fact, the stock images of the watch would pass for an abstract J12 ad. But J12 Paradoxe is actually two-tone – two thirds of the case in white ceramic and the remainder in black ceramic. Rely on the same concept but more valuable materials, Chanel is also rolling out the uber-extravagant J12 Paradoxe Diamonds combining black ceramic, white gold, and diamonds. While ceramic is about four times harder than steel, the hardness makes it brittle and delicate to machine, making a ceramic watch case slightly more challenging to fabricate than the same in steel. Produced by G&F; Chatelain, the buckle and case-maker owned by Chanel, the case is essentially two sections of ceramic anchored to an inner steel frame. Each section is secured to the frame with two screws, which are visible on the back of the watch. And the movement is also contained with the frame. Because of the multi-part construction of the case, the water resistance is 50 m, instead of the 200 m of the standard J12 that has a single-piece ceramic case. The dial and bezel insert continue the colours of the case, but each component is a single piece that’s been treated to create a two-colour fini...
Time+Tide
Why it’s so challenging to paint a Franck Muller dial
Editor’s note: Franck Muller are known for their incredibly complex movements, wonderfully curved case designs, and brightly coloured dials. But did you know that each Franck Muller dial is hand-painted? That’s right, there is a dedicated dial painter with a very steady hand, who is responsible for adding that characteristic splash of colour to the … ContinuedThe post Why it’s so challenging to paint a Franck Muller dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
2004: The Blancpain Villeret Quantième Perpetual, hidden functionality for a cleaner design
For centuries, perpetual calendars placed pushers on the case. In 2004, Blancpain change all that.
Revolution
Introducing the Panerai Luminor Marina Carbotech 44mm - PAM 01661
The latest Luminor sees the old case in a new case material.
Quill & Pad
Michel Perchin Timepiece #1: From Pens To Watches, Elegance Reigns
For the Michel Perchin Model #1, designer and brand owner Patrick Pinkston works with a well-versed goldsmith workshop in the United Kingdom that he describes as “literally fabricating one case at a time.” There, each 36 x 55 mm white gold case is hand-finished and engraved. What else makes this independently crafted timepiece notable? Nancy Olson has the full story.
Deployant
New: Miss Audrey & Monsieur Bovet for Valentine’s Day
Happy Valentine's Day! Presenting the new "couple" watch from Bovet - the Miss Audrey and Monsieur Bovet, both with convertible case.
SJX Watches
MHD Watches Introduces the Automotive-Inspired SA2
Founded by a former car designer, Matthew Humphries Design (MHD) unsurprisingly sells automobile-inspired watches. The most original to date is the SA2, a time-only automatic with a distinctive case that seems familiar but is novel in form. MHD was founded in 2014 by Matthew Humphries, who, at age 21, became head of design at Morgan Motor Company, the maker of lightweight, retro sports cars that are hand-assembled and distinctly British. Amongst his creations during his stint at Morgan were the Aeromax, Aero SuperSports as well as the peculiar yet cool 3-Wheeler. Unsurprisingly given Morgan’s quirky and compact cars that still use wood for the body frame, the SA2 is slightly retro, while being notably refined and clean for a watch designed on the automotive-theme – one that is often characterised by eccentric, aesthetically-charged watches. A restrained use of colour allows the design of the SA2 to speak for itself. “Exoskeleton chassis case” Available in three different variants, the SA2’s defining feature is undoubtedly its case. While the outline is the common cushion form – at a glance it might be mistaken for yet another retro, cushion-shaped watch – the case is actually a skeletonised frame holding the case middle, a construction inspired by the chassis of a lightweight race car. Composed of four parts, the round case middle is supported by a thin, cushion-shaped frame with fixed bars at each end for the strap. Wide but slim, the case measures 41mm by 4...
Deployant
Review: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Light
We bring you the detailed review of the new Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Light, a new, skeletonized Laureato in a sapphire glass case.
SJX Watches
G-Shock Introduces the 6900-Series with Metal Bezel
While the quintessential G-Shock is arguably the original, oblong DW-5000 in black plastic, the oversized DW-6900 is almost as famous. Introduced in 1995, its bulbous case was strikingly large and the watch became a fashion accessory of sorts over the next two decades, especially with the collaborations done with streetwear labels like Mastermind and celebrities like rapper Eminem. So as the DW-6900 reaches its 25th year, Casio is marking the anniversary with a special edition: the G-Shock GM-6900 with metal bezel. Identical in shape and function to the original, the GM-6900 is distinguished by its stamped steel bezel, essentially a metal outer case goes over the inner resin case. The bezel is formed into shape via multiple stamping processes, each further refining the form and curve of the bezel. It’s available in a natural steel finish, black-coating with a glossy finish and red accents, or polished gold plating. In terms of tech, the GM-6900 is basic. The electronic module inside is battery operated and has all of the usual functions of a G-Shock, including stopwatch, countdown timer, and multiple time zones. It is delivered on a black resin strap with a buckle finished to match the steel bezel. The original DW-6900 Key facts and price G-Shock GM-6900 G-Shock GM-6900B (black bezel) G-Shock GM-6900G (gold bezel) Diameter: 49.7 mm Height: 18.6 mm Material: Resin with steel bezel Water resistance: 200 m Movement: Model 3230 Functions: Digital, multifunction Windi...
Time+Tide
The soft, flowing lines of the Hublot Classic Fusion Ferrari GT
Editor’s note: After we were recently witness to Hublot’s latest novelties released in Dubai, it’s worth taking another look at one of the most innovative designs from the brand in recent years – the Hublot Classic Fusion Ferrari GT. Available in three case materials, the gentle curves were a new direction for Hublot, who are … ContinuedThe post The soft, flowing lines of the Hublot Classic Fusion Ferrari GT appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
First look at the DOXA SUB 200 on summer-ready rubber straps
The GPHG-nominated DOXA SUB 200 has succeeded in capturing the watch world’s attention since its unveiling at Baselworld 2019, what with its vibrant dial options, 200 metres of water resistance, and fetching, vintage-inspired 42mm stainless steel case. There was just one niggling issue for some - the beads of rice bracelet was perhaps a tad … ContinuedThe post First look at the DOXA SUB 200 on summer-ready rubber straps appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
NOMOS Power Reserve review
Nomos is the brand of entry level luxury Bauhaus design. Typically offering decluttered dials, no nonsense design and some of the best value in the luxury watch world. So is the Nomos Tangente power reserve the German watch for you? Case The Nomos Tangente power reserve features a stainless steel case, 35mm in circumference and only 6.6mm thick. The case itself takes an interesting shape having a raised band of steel around the center of its construction leaving depressions above and below the mid case. This offers some visual interest to what is already a remarkably slim and slender watch. The model weighing only 40grams including the supplied leather strap, offers the wearer the opportunity to constantly forget that it’s on their wrist. The stainless steel is finished to a high polish on all sides. There is the presence of a typically industrial and lets face it, German no nonsense crown, which features deep cuts for easy manipulation. Everything about the case on this watch screams German watch design, nothing is overdone, nothing is unnecessary or flamboyant. That is, until you see the lugs. The lugs are a strong statement in design from the Glashutte manufacturer. They protrude from the case and drop sharply at 45 degrees. They give the watch a much longer stance than the 35mm case size would suggest. Because of this design choice the watch wears 44mm lug to lug. When on the wrist I found the face of the watch appears about 2mm too small for the lugs. Although t...
SJX Watches
Semper & Adhuc Rescues Homeless Vintage Movements
French startup Semper & Adhuc is making its debut with a familiar proposition: affordable, time-only watches, but with a historically conscious twist – each watch is powered by a homeless vintage movement. Also unusual is the fact that while the movements are Swiss, namely the A. Schild AS 1012, every other part of the watch, including case, dial, and hands, is made in France. The brand was started in 2016 by watchmaker Colin de Tonnac, who spent several years at Patek Philippe in Geneva before setting up Semper & Adhuc in Bordeaux. The inaugural line-up is made up of three minimalist watches with quirky details and form cases, but the most interesting bit is the slightly romantic rationale behind the movement inside. Saving abandoned movements All three models are powered by the same calibre, the hand-wound AS 1012 produced by A. Schild, a Grenchen-based movement maker that was once one of Switzerland’s largest. Produced from 1936 to 1960, the AS 1012 is an unusual movement because it is, or rather was, an oval form calibre destined for ladies’ watches, explaining the compact size of about 13 mm by 15 mm. It has 17 or 21 jewels depending on the version, and a 36-hour power reserve. Examples of the AS 1012 and its variants The AS 1012 was inexpensive and robust, making it popular enough that millions were produced. And after the Quartz Crisis, a good number of the movements – likely the majority of them – were in watches that were no longer desirable. That wa...
Quill & Pad
Parmigiani Kalpa Kalparisma Snow: The Scintillating ‘Icy’ Setting Is The Star
The curved edges of the case of the Parmigiani Kalpa Kalparisma Snow ensure that, whatever the angle or direction, there are always diamonds catching light and reflecting it back as a bright galaxy of scintillating fires. It’s the incredible expanse of sparkle that makes snow-set watches so extraordinary, and this new watch is a prime example.
Deployant
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda 1950
Parmigiani's staple elegant dress watch has a slim profile, complete with an attractive looking movement. The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda is now available in a matte navy blue dial in a stainless steel case.
Quill & Pad
Bovet Virtuoso IX: Double-Faced Masterpiece Featuring Tourbillon, Large Date, Second Time Zone, World Time, Plus 10-Day Power Reserve With Spherical Winding - Reprise
The Bovet Virtuoso IX combines a (double-face) flying tourbillon with two time zones, large date, an impressive power reserve of ten days, plus the brand's patented Amadeo convertible case. What more need we say?
Revolution
Rado x Revolution Captain Cook, 2nd Outing
In its second collaboration with Revolution, Rado presents the cool grey Captain Cook in a larger 42mm case.
Quill & Pad
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic: Enchanting Ultra-Thin In Titanium, Gold, Ceramic And Now In Steel
Ever since the Bulgari Octo Finissimo premiered in 2017 George Cramer has been very attracted to the model, but was also afraid that the case would be too large for his wrist. But in Paris one day, he tried an Octo Finissimo on in the Bulgari boutique and was immediately convinced that it was perfect and also very comfortable. But he then had to decide which version was his favorite.
Time+Tide
“Watch & Act!” Auction Item - Lot 17: A gorgeous green Middle Eastern Limited Edition Bell & Ross
This eye-catching special edition, launched at the Dubai Watch Week 2019, features a satin-finished steel case and lush starburst dial inspired by the green in the UAE flag – a colour chosen to inspire hope, growth and prosperity – and four Hindi Arabic numerals painted in Super-LumiNova. This is the first Bell & Ross model … ContinuedThe post “Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 17: A gorgeous green Middle Eastern Limited Edition Bell & Ross appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Van Cleef & Arpels Pierre Arpels: An Intertwined History - Reprise
Many of the great marques in the history of watchmaking were driven by prominent figures who ended up with a watch named after them. Such was the case for both Louis Cartier and Pierre Arpels. Both were born into jewelry and watch dynasties and both made prominent marks on the histories of their respective houses. How else are they intertwined? Martin Green explains here.
Deployant
New: MB&F; Legacy Machine Perpetual Yellow Gold
MB&F; announces a new Legacy Machine Perpetual in 18k yellow gold case with striking blue face. A limited edition of 25 pieces.
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Urwerk UR-100 Gunmetal
Last year Urwerk launched the UR-100 SpaceTime, a watch that installed the brand’s signature wandering hours satellite display in newly designed watch case. Unsurprisingly the UR-100 SpaceTime became a brisk seller, not only because it is the most affordable model in the catalogue, but also because its case is compact and relatively conventional in shape, making it the most wearable Urwerk watch by far. And so Urwerk has followed up with the UR-100 Gunmetal, a new variant that arrives just four months after four months after the model was launched. It feels a little bit too soon for another edition, but the Gunmetal is different enough – and the original versions are almost sold out – that it can be forgiven. Steel in disguise While the case of the new UR-100 remains the same design, the finish is unusual. The material looks like titanium, even up close it resembles titanium, but in the hand it is obviously too heavy to be titanium. The case is actually steel, which has been sandblasted to give it a smooth, matte finish and then coated with a dark grey coating. That’s a bit of a surprise, because watch cases that look like titanium are almost always titanium. But Urwerk’s rationale for using steel is practical: hard-coated steel is more resistant to scratches than titanium, which is generally quite soft. The result is watch that has a strong sci-fi military look, like a piece of kit used by the Marines in Aliens, which is very much Urwerk’s original house styl...
Time+Tide
“Watch & Act!” Auction Item - Lot 15: A moon dance with Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Manufacture
The Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Manufacture Fratello Exclusive is produced in a limited run of 29 pieces, and are all individually numbered on the caseback. The 42mm 3 parts-case holds a convex sapphire crystal and clear caseback revealing the inner workings of the FC-712 caliber. The two counters of the moonphase and date are respectively … ContinuedThe post “Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 15: A moon dance with Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Manufacture appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
“Watch & Act!” Auction Item - Lot 14: The striking Alpina Manufacture Flyback Chronograph
With its striking appearance, the ‘Full Black’ Alpina 4 Manufacture Flyback Chronograph demonstrates an aggressive and distinctive personality. The model features an intense black PVD-coated case made out of stainless steel. The black dial with beige luminous pearl black applied indexes, matching the luminous beige hands, provides a stealthy, slightly vintage look. Note the ergonomically … ContinuedThe post “Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 14: The striking Alpina Manufacture Flyback Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
“Watch & Act!” Auction Item - Lot 7: One of a kind with the Zenith Pilot Rescue ‘Australian Rescue’ Edition
This unique piece, with a custom Australian-themed caseback and unique dial, has been conceived and created from scratch by the brilliant minds driving Zenith’s groundbreaking new era. It combines the slate grey dial of the brand new ‘Rescue’ series of Pilots, with a bronze case to dramatic effect. The blood-red crossed axe motif on the … ContinuedThe post “Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 7: One of a kind with the Zenith Pilot Rescue ‘Australian Rescue’ Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
These were the most significant Zenith watches of 2019
Zenith really wowed the global watch community last year with some truly impressive new releases that encompassed beautiful heritage pieces, new case materials and horological innovations that had everyone talking. We’d like to mention all the models that dropped last year, but, to keep it short and sweet, here were the three most important Zenith … ContinuedThe post These were the most significant Zenith watches of 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Zenith El Primero A384 Revival: Cool Never Changes
Martin Green thinks that the El Primero A384 Revival is a powerful thing on the wrist. With a diameter of 37 mm it is small by today's standards, but compensates well with its cushion-shaped case. Its particular brand of cool makes him want to get a leather jacket and a muscle car. How about you?
Time+Tide
My week with the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39
Since the Rolex lineup is peppered with all-stars, like the perennially popular Submariner, crowd favourite GMT-Master II and boy-racer Daytona, it would be easy to overlook the basic Oyster Perpetual as simply filler for the (nowadays usually empty) display case. After spending a week with the new-for-2018 white dial variant, I advise you not to … ContinuedThe post My week with the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.