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VIDEO: Why the NOMOS Club Sport neomatik 37 puts versatility first Time+Tide
Nomos Club Sport neomatik 37 Oct 28, 2022

VIDEO: Why the NOMOS Club Sport neomatik 37 puts versatility first

The Glashütte brand recently introduced a new entry into their affordable Club family with the NOMOS Club Sport neomatik 37. While this line-up features some of the most affordable models that NOMOS offers, the Club Sport neomatik is a different beast, though its diminutive sizing and simple looks may not suggest so. Through a few … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Why the NOMOS Club Sport neomatik 37 puts versatility first appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Simpler and more compact - the NOMOS Club Sport neomatik 37 Time+Tide
Nomos Club Sport neomatik 37 Oct 12, 2022

HANDS-ON: Simpler and more compact - the NOMOS Club Sport neomatik 37

We’ve sung many praises for the unique way that NOMOS integrates their Bauhaus-driven design language even when creating tough, water-resistant watches like the Ahoi. The same can be said for the new NOMOS Club Sport neomatik 37, thus far only available in a date-equipped 42mm model. This new, downsized release houses the impressively thin neomatik … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Simpler and more compact – the NOMOS Club Sport neomatik 37 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Urwerk Introduces the UR-120 “Spock” SJX Watches
Urwerk Introduces Oct 4, 2022

Urwerk Introduces the UR-120 “Spock”

Having invented the satellite-cube hour indicator, Urwerk is undoubtedly leading practitioner of contemporary watchmaking. But the brand has continue to tweak its unconventional time displays, including the most recent swivelling-prism hours within a glass cylinder. Now the brand has gone back to its roots while simultaneously innovating. The UR-120 “Spock” is a novel take on its signature wandering hours that has the familiar triple satellites on a carousel, but each satellite is actually a pair of cubes that sequentially split, rotate, and converge in order to display the hours. Initial thoughts Credit goes to Urwerk for continuing to innovate with its avant-garde displays. The newest invention retains the recognisable Urwerk look and feel but creates a more dynamic visual display with the splitting and joining motions. The two-part hour cube is clever, though not entirely new. It reminds me of the Harry Winston Opus Eleven, a far more complex interpretation of the concept that relied on four panels to display each hour numeral – one so complex the watch never made it to market. While the two-part cube display is new, the rest of the movement is similar to the UR-110, resulting in similar overall aesthetics. Though unorthodox in style, the UR-120 has a clean styling that makes it legible, though it might take some getting used to when reading the time. One criticism of the dial design concerns the nickel alloy parts produced via the LIGA photolithography tech...

Longines Introduces the Master Collection 190th Anniversary SJX Watches
Longines Introduces Sep 14, 2022

Longines Introduces the Master Collection 190th Anniversary

While it isn’t common knowledge, Longines now 190 years old, making it the longest-established of the seven biggest brands in Swiss watchmaking, besting even its sister company Omega. Historically known for its top-quality chronographs and time-only chronometers, Longines has unsurprisingly delved into its archives to mark the anniversary. The brand has just taken the wraps off the Master Collection 190th Anniversary, a three-hand wristwatch with an unusually elaborate dial for a Longines. And as expected for a commemorative model, it is available not only as a regular production model in steel, but also also a pricier limited edition in yellow or rose gold. The steel version with blued steel hands is an affordable US$2,400 Initial thoughts With compact proportions and an elegantly detailed dial, the Master 190th Anniversary blends various elements drawn from watches of the mid 20th century, giving it an easy appeal. That said, the aesthetics of the Master anniversary are not exactly original – it does bring to mind a variety of other watches. While it’s definitely a vintage-style watch, the Master anniversary is not a reissue – a feat for Longines, a brand that already has several dozen reissues in its catalogue. I find the dial of the new Master more attractive than most of the actual remakes in Longines’ Heritage collection. Those watches typically have good fit and finish, but the anniversary Master is a marked improvement and enhanced by flourishes lik...

Hands On: IWC Portugieser Automatic 40 SJX Watches
IWC Portugieser Automatic 40 Launched Jul 17, 2022

Hands On: IWC Portugieser Automatic 40

Launched in 2020 as a more wearable version of IWC’s signature large-format dress watch, the Portugieser Automatic 40 is a no-frills three-hander executed in a solid, workmanlike manner that is typical of the brand. Though novel for the current Portugieser line – it’s the smallest model in the lineup – the new automatic isn’t a wholly new idea. IWC did offer a “small” Portugieser some two decades ago, but Portugieser watches since then have been well over 40 mm in diameter. The large size of the various Portugieser models result from the movements, which either have a seven-day power reserve or chronograph, plus a few others that are even more complicated. That left a gap for a “small”, uncomplicated Portugieser. And so it has returned, combining the typical restrained aesthetics of the Portugieser line and the technical quality expected of IWC. Initial thoughts The Portugieser Automatic 40 is a wearable watch with a distinctive but classical aesthetic. Unlike its larger and more complicated counterparts in the Portugieser line, the 40 mm automatic is simple but still has the same recognisable aesthetic as well as a solidly engineered movement. It’s moderately sized, though a little thick due to the movement inside. The movement is a good one, which makes the case height acceptable, though a slimmer case would certainly be more appealing and also echo the vintage original more closely. The cal. 82200 Importantly, it is also eminently affordable. Con...

Zenith Introduces the Calibre 135 Observatoire SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces Jun 3, 2022

Zenith Introduces the Calibre 135 Observatoire

Having already designed its own El Primero limited edition, Phillips has collaborated with Zenith and Voutilainen to create the Calibre 135 Observatoire, a limited edition of 10 watches each powered by a cal. 135-O. The movement was the specially-regulated variant of Zenith’s flagship chronometer wristwatch movement of the mid-20th century, conceived solely to participate in observatory chronometer contests. As such, the movements were never cased and sold, until now. Contained in a platinum case, the movements were light decorated by Voutilainen, which also supplied the guilloche dial via its dial making subsidiary Comblemine. Initial thoughts The Calibre 135 Observatoire is a good looking watch. It’s evidently modelled on the vintage model and doesn’t change too much of the original design, but instead injects a few elegant details that give it more refinement, like the guilloche chapter ring. These discreet flourishes are enough to set it apart as a higher end watch than the vintage original, which are more of a functional precision chronometer. More broadly, it’s a three-way collaboration that reflects the strengths of the collaborators to different degrees. For Phillips, the Observatoire is a sensible collaboration since it chimes with its strength in selling both vintage and modern watches at the top end of the price spectrum. And it also a perfect base for the auctioneer to utilise the discerning eye of the gentlemen behind the project, namely Aurel Bacs a...

In-Depth: MB&F; LM Sequential EVO SJX Watches
MB&F; Jun 1, 2022

In-Depth: MB&F; LM Sequential EVO

MB&F; has just rolled out its very first chronograph, which becomes the second model in its EVO line of sports watches that began with the LM Perpetual EVO, now the brand’s bestselling watch. Christened the Legacy Machine Sequential EVO, the new chronograph continues with the same aesthetic of an open dial that reveals the mechanics along with a streamlined case. The LM Sequential EVO is most interesting for its movement, which is paradoxically complicated yet simple. Developed by Stephen McDonnell, a constructor who’s been a longtime collaborator with MB&F;, the movement is a double chronograph capable of recording twin times simultaneously along with a “Twinverter” mechanism that can either operate both chronographs or invert them – a complicated endeavour. But the setup is a simple one, essentially two discrete chronograph mechanisms that operate independently but linked by the inverter mechanism. Initial thoughts I was impressed by the LM Sequential EVO when I first saw the watch. It is a big, imposing watch with sleek lines and a wide face that is filled to the edges with intricate mechanics and quadruple sub-dials packed tightly together. Despite its size, the watch wears well due to the shape and length of the lugs, while looking like a grand complication on the wrist. And once I understood that it was a double chronograph, I was even more impressed; it looks even more complicated than the top contenders in the category, namely the Lange Triple Split and Au...

Blancpain Introduces the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe in Titanium and Sedna Gold SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava ref 5057G May 23, 2022

Blancpain Introduces the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe in Titanium and Sedna Gold

Singapore retailer Cortina Watch is marking its 50th year in 2022 with progressive launches of anniversary editions, which started with the Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 5057G that made its debut at the beginning of the year. Now it’s the turn of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary, the first of the brand’s dive watches to feature a two-tone case in titanium and 18k Sedna gold. Initial thoughts The Bathyscaphe is probably the best looking amongst Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms range of dive watches. It has the right degree of retro style, while also being relatively compact and wearable. And it avoids being too different, too vintage, or too big, as many of other Fifty Fathoms divers are; the Bathyscaphe is just right in many ways. The new edition is a modest variation on the original, but a good one. In contrast to the almost-monochromatic standard model, this version looks a little fancier without being over the top thanks to its gold elements. At the same time, the gold parts are balanced; the bezel, for instance, is set off by the gold crown. But the look is restrained with the brushed bezel insert and dial, so it doesn’t stray too far from the original. What the watch is missing, however, is a bracelet as it is delivered on a fabric strap as standard. Blancpain does have a titanium bracelet available as an additional purchase, however, it is not two tone though it should pair well with this watch. Retro diver Though inspired by th...

English Independents Team Up for the “Fears Garrick” SJX Watches
IWC Portugieser which Apr 29, 2022

English Independents Team Up for the “Fears Garrick”

A pair of watchmakers with English roots, Fears and Garrick have banded together to create a wristwatch that bears the aesthetic of the former while relying on the mechanics of the latter, the Fears Garrick. Founded in 1846 but having gone out of business during the Quartz Crisis, Fears is an English brand that was revived in 2016 by a descendant of its founder. Though it was not in continuous operation, Fears is now one of the oldest, family-owned English watch brands. Its modern-day offerings are all about clean, simple designs inspired by watches from its past catalogue, which are sometimes paired with period-correct, vintage movements. Garrick, on the other hand, was founded in 2014. Sitting in a higher price point than the typical Fears, Garrick’s offerings are constructed with the help of Swiss specialists, including Andreas Strehler, and dressed up with traditional decoration such as engine turning. David Brailsford of Garrick (left), and Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, the great-great-great-grandson of Fears’ founder Initial thoughts The Fears Garrick is essentially a Garrick S1, the brand’s most impressive offering to date, but redesigned to give it a simpler aesthetic. Though intriguing, the open dial of the S1 has been done away with and the result is minimalist but appealing. I actually prefer the look of the Fears Garrick over the S1. But the Fears Garrick does bring to mind the IWC Portugieser, which is a good thing. For anyone who found the movement of ...

Cartier Introduces the Santos-Dumont with a Lacquered Case SJX Watches
Cartier Introduces Mar 30, 2022

Cartier Introduces the Santos-Dumont with a Lacquered Case

While Cartier has unveiled fancier and more complex watches at W&W; 2022, one of its standout new launches is amongst the more affordable, at least in steel. The Santos-Dumont Large Model in lacquer is unusual and interesting; very different from any recent Cartier yet clearly a product of the Parisian jeweller. Available in steel, gold, or platinum, the new Santos-Dumont has its case and bezel finished with coloured lacquer, while the dial has a concentric cube pattern. Though the lacquered case is inspired by a vintage Santos with a similar decoration, it is unique amongst Cartier’s current line up. Initial thoughts The new Santos-Dumont is inspired by a 1920s watch with a lacquer bezel, giving it an unsurprising vintage vibe, yet it is entirely original. With its square bezel and Roman numerals, it is clearly a Cartier Santos, but it stands apart from its more mundane counterparts. I like everything about it, though I would have preferred it in the Extra-Large size, rather than the Large as it is now. Of the three versions, the steel model has the strongest vintage vibes with its black lacquer. The platinum model is striking and almost over the top in its colour, while the rose gold version lacks contrast. In steel with black lacquer While the platinum and gold versions are limited edition – as would be expected for such an unusual watch – the steel version is regular production, which is both unexpected and welcome news. And the watch is fairly priced in all its v...

Citizen Remakes Lost-at-Sea Diver’s Watch SJX Watches
Citizen Remakes Lost-at-Sea Diver’s Watch Mar 22, 2022

Citizen Remakes Lost-at-Sea Diver’s Watch

One of Citizen’s earlier dive watches, the Challenge Diver of 1977 is rated to 150 m – but it evidently can withstand more than pressure under water. In 1983, a long-submerged example was discovered at Long Reef Beach in Sydney, Australia. And despite being encrusted with barnacles, it was in working condition according to Citizen. Now Citizen revisits the Challenge Diver – and memorialises the barnacle-covered watch – with the Promaster Mechanical Diver 200m “Fujitsubo”. The new watch retains the retro design and dimensions but has been thoroughly upgraded with modern materials and mechanics, including a titanium case and movement resistant to magnetic fields of up to 16,000 A/m (or about 200 Gauss). Initial thoughts While the new launch is headlined by an interesting story, the watch itself is appealing, especially for its slim proportions and affordability. At 41 mm wide and 12.3 mm tall, the Fujitsubo is one of the thinnest dive watches in this price segment. In fact, it’s even thinner than the vintage original. And it’s also slimmer than its most obvious rival, the Seiko 1965 Diver’s Modern Re-Interpretations “62MAS”, which is about 1 mm taller. And it will also be lightweight. As is convention for most of Citizen’s mid-range dive watches, the case is Super Titanium, the brand’s proprietary alloy that has undergone surface hardening, leaving it five times more scratch resistant than steel. Visually, the Fujitsubo is simple and almost gene...

Seiko Debuts Prospex Dive Watches with “Glacial Ice” Dials SJX Watches
Seiko Debuts Prospex Dive Watches Mar 21, 2022

Seiko Debuts Prospex Dive Watches with “Glacial Ice” Dials

Sticking to a tried-and-tested formula, Seiko has united a trio of its bestselling dive watches into a thematic collection. This year’s offering is the Prospex Save the Ocean Special Editions, a trio of dive watches (the refs. SPB297, SPB299, and SPB301) featuring textured dials modelled on the surface of polar ice. As with past Save the Ocean editions, part of the proceeds from the sale of the new models will be donated to ocean conservation organisations. Initial thoughts Easy to like because of their vintage-inspired style and affordability, Seiko’s “Modern Re-interpretation” dive watches have just gotten better with the new trio, thanks to interesting, textured dials in pleasing colours. Even amongst the countless iterations of the same models, the new arrivals still manage to distinguish themselves, especially the models in light blue and white, both uncommon colours for dive watches. Interestingly, the new watches might look identical to past versions save for the dials, but they are not. All three feature steel cases that have a “super-hard coating”, which was absent in earlier models, explaining why the new models cost more than last year’s military-style special editions. While Seiko’s schedule of frequent new launches are a little tedious to keep up with, the proliferation of such watches is probably justified, simply because they are mass produced and affordable, making them easily accessible for almost anyone. As such, new versions in co...

Omega Introduces the Hand-Wind Speedmaster ’57 SJX Watches
Omega Introduces Mar 17, 2022

Omega Introduces the Hand-Wind Speedmaster ’57

A modern take on Omega’s first-ever Speedmaster from 1957, the aptly named Speedmaster ’57 has just been facelifted and upgraded. What was originally a two-counter, automatic chronograph is now a two-counter, manual-wind chronograph. Its aesthetics have been refined, including with a smaller case, coloured dials, and a better bracelet, while the insides have been upgrade with a METAS-certified movement. Initial thoughts While the new Speedmaster ’57 might seem identical to its predecessor that was introduced almost a decade ago, it is entirely different. The latest release retains the same retro style with its “Broad Arrow” hands, straight lugs, and flat-link bracelet, but everything else has been redesigned. Continuing Omega’s stylistic direction for 2022, the new Speedmaster ’57 is offered in bright, metallic-finish dials, including a fashionable olive green. It also encapsulates consumers’ preference for a smaller and thinner case, as well as a quick-adjustment clasp, which will certainly improve wearability. But the biggest surprise comes courtesy of the movement. While the cal. 9300 in the earlier model was automatic, the cal. 9906 in the new model is hand-wind, which results in a slightly thinner case that’s 12.99 mm. With its evocation of vintage chronographs, the hand-wind movement leaves the date feeling somewhat out of place, since it’s a complication traditionally associated with practicality instead of good, old-fashioned aesthetics. At U...

Omega Introduces the Speedmaster Moonwatch in Moonshine Gold SJX Watches
Omega Introduces Mar 10, 2022

Omega Introduces the Speedmaster Moonwatch in Moonshine Gold

In 2021, Omega revamped its ubiquitous Moonwatch, giving it a thorough makeover that included an upgraded movement in the form of the Master Co-Axial cal. 3861. This year, Omega follows up with the Speedmaster Moonwatch 42 mm Moonshine Gold. Omega’s proprietary pale-yellow gold alloy, Moonshine Gold was developed to celebrate the 50th anniversary of Moon landing, so it comes as no surprise that the alloy has made its way into the latest-generation Speedmaster with the cal. 3861. The “panda” dial in solid Moonshine Gold with black registers Initial thoughts The Speedmaster Moonshine Gold Speedmasters are possibly the most striking version of the latest Moonwatch (though the Canopus Gold is a close second). Both iterations of the Speedmaster Moonshine Gold are in popular colours; green is currently hot and while Omega may not score points in originality, the brand is delivering what the market wants at the moment. That said, the execution of the new Speedmasters is done well. The restrained use of modern material such as ceramic for the bezel insert gives the watch a polished yet traditional look, allowing it to retain the essence of its bestselling model. Put simply, it still looks like a Speedmaster Moonwatch, which is what matters. And the unique, pale yellow tone of Moonshine Gold gives the new Speedmaster a slightly vintage look, albeit one with elements that are clearly modern. At the same time, the colour of the metal allows for a subtlety in appearance in spi...

Nomos Introduces the Tangente Neomatik “Platinum Gray” SJX Watches
Nomos Introduces Feb 26, 2022

Nomos Introduces the Tangente Neomatik “Platinum Gray”

One of the four original models that Nomos launched as its inaugural collection in 1992, the Tangente is the brand’s longest-running model, having grown both literally and metaphorically – the case has expanded from a tiny 35 mm to today’s 41 mm, while the line has grown to include dozens of models. Now the Glashütte watchmaker has just given the automatic model an update to create the Tangente Neomatik “Platinum Gray” with a restrained dial that has a subtly sparkling grained finish and a case available in either 35 mm or 39 mm. Initial thoughts Despite being a simple iteration of an existing model, the Platinum Gray is a pleasing addition to the range. The highlight is the elegant dial, which calls to mind another watch made in Nomos’ hometown, the platinum Lange 1 nicknamed “Stealth” for its silver-on-silver palette. But the Tangente is clearly different – and far more affordable – as it looks less formal with its large Arabic numerals (and ironically the typography was inspired by vintage Lange wristwatches). Like other recent Nomos watches, the Platinum Gray is a variation on a theme – essentially just a new dial – which makes it repetitive. The lack of innovation or novelty can leave Nomos feeling unexciting at times, though the strong design identity and affordability of the brand remains appealing, as does its affordability. With a price tag that starts at US$3,070 and rises to US$3,780 depending on the case size and back, the Platinum ...

HANDS ON: The NOMOS Tangente neomatik platinum grey is a monochrome twist on Bauhaus style Time+Tide
Nomos Tangente neomatik platinum grey Feb 24, 2022

HANDS ON: The NOMOS Tangente neomatik platinum grey is a monochrome twist on Bauhaus style

Synonymous with high quality and original design, NOMOS serves up an update to one of their most emphatically Bauhaus designs. This pairing of Tangente models showcases the new platinum grey dial colour, which adds welcome variety to the line-up of mostly white and blue offerings thus far. Tangente – Bauhaus personified Famously conceived by Walter … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: The NOMOS Tangente neomatik platinum grey is a monochrome twist on Bauhaus style appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Baltic Micro-Rotor MR01 SJX Watches
Breguet numerals so I was Jan 20, 2022

Up Close: Baltic Micro-Rotor MR01

A French micro-brand that specialises in watches with retro style, Baltic unveiled its smallest – and perhaps most classical – offering in October last year, the Micro-Rotor MR01. Coming in at just 36 mm in diameter, the MR01 is no doubt a surprising size for a modern watch. Despite its compact size, the MR01 manages to squeeze in a lot relative to the price. Most obvious is a tasteful design that brings to mind gentlemen’s watches from the 1930s – the Calatrava ref. 96 easily comes to mind. But equally interesting is the slim automatic movement with a micro-rotor that is responsible for the elegant proportions (and affordability). Its combination of aesthetics and price meant the initial run of 200 pieces in each colour – “salmon”, blue, and a no-nonsense silver – quickly sold out. Of the three, the “salmon” dial immediately stands out, just because it’s the flavour of the dial for vintage-inspired dress watches. But when the opportunity for review came along, I opted for the silver dial, as I found the clean palette attractive. As pleasing as the MR01 seemed in photos, there were a few details I wasn’t convinced by, such as the wide bezel and applied Breguet numerals, so I was looking forward to wearing one for a few days. The all-silver is a good look and one often found on more expensive Calatrava-inspired watches such as the Naoya Hida NH Type 1B Initial thoughts After handling the MR01 for the first time, it seemed to be a thoughtful, comple...

Grand Seiko Introduces the Spring Drive SLGA009 “White Birch” SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Jan 17, 2022

Grand Seiko Introduces the Spring Drive SLGA009 “White Birch”

Though it was two years ago as the Grand Seiko’s flagship Spring Drive movement, the 9RA5 still feels new, simply because the latest-generation movement hasn’t found its way into many watches, save for a pair of limited editions. Now it finally makes it into a regular-production model, the Grand Seiko Spring Drive SLGA009 “White Birch”. The latest Spring Drive, like the mechanical SLGH005, is inspired by the tree of the same name that’s native to the area around Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi. Initial thoughts The SLGH009 “White Birch” clearly becomes the Grand Seiko’s showcase Spring Drive – it resembles the previous generation’s bestseller, the famous “Snowflake”, but is substantially upgraded in terms of features and finish. The combination of familiar styling and improved quality makes it attractive. Part of the appeal lies in the 9RA5 movement, which on the surface seems like a mere upgrade over the predecessor 9R65. But it is more than just the power reserve being increased to five days, and the new calibre boasts an entirely new architecture, including both a new gear train and integrated circuit for the Spring Drive regulator, as well as a better finishing. The other aspect of its appeal lies in the design, which has dubbed “Evolution 9”. As always is the case with Grand Seiko, Evolution 9 is inspired by vintage Grand Seiko models, but brings with it a sense of solidity and refinement, thanks to the flatter case, heftier bracelet, a...

Up Close: Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold SJX Watches
Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold Jan 13, 2022

Up Close: Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold

A surprise launch that was part of last year’s revamp of its retro diver, the Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold is marked the debut of a new gold alloy, joining the brand’s ever-growing stable of proprietary metals like as Moonshine and Sedna golds. The unusual nature of the gold alloy – with a good proportion of copper, it is only 9k in terms of purity – immediately makes the new Seamaster 300 interesting. It stands out amongst the sea of vintage-inspired dive watches thanks to the unique physical properties of the case metal, which will develop a patina, but in a slow, barely discernible manner. The alloy is 37.5% gold, which is 9k But because the Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold is still gold, even if it is low caratage, it is not especially affordable, being twice that of its steel counterpart. That said, from the perspective of conventional gold, it’s much more accessible compared to a typical dive watch with an 18k gold case. With that contradiction in mind, is the Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold a value proposition? Omega was kind enough to lend one for a week, so I endeavoured to find out. Initial thoughts First things first, the aesthetics. The watch is handsome in the metal, with an appealing style that is evidently vintage-inspired despite the thick case. And it definitely feels more luxurious than the steel versions, in part due to the case metal but also the seemingly finer details. Overall, the design feels complete and cohesive – the brown colourway is appea...

Hands-On: IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Spitfire in Titanium SJX Watches
IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Jan 5, 2022

Hands-On: IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Spitfire in Titanium

Just last year, IWC debuted its smallest Big Pilot’s Watch to date. Smaller, but not small, the latest Big Pilot is 43 mm, leaving it very much large and legible, but more wearable. The brand quickly followed up with the Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Spitfire, which shares the same proportions but in new styles and materials. Two variants are available: titanium or bronze, but the standout is definitely the model in the lightweight metal. Initial thoughts The original Big Pilot’s Watch 43 is intrinsically appealing, being large enough to be an oversized aviator’s instrument, but small enough to sit relatively comfortable on wrist. That contrasts with the original Big Pilot, which is 46.5 mm in diameter. With the original version selling well, the addition of the Spitfire editions is natural. The aesthetic of Spitfire editions is clearly different from the that of the standard model in steel, which is good news for enthusiasts who want something more interesting. History fanatics, however, might frown at the dial design. Of the two Spitfire versions, the one in titanium stands out for its unusual, historically-inspired dial (though it’s not exactly historically accurate since IWC didn’t produce a B-uhr with such a dial; more on that below). And it also has an atypical case finish that mimics a worn, vintage case. On the other hand, the bronze version is identical to the steel model save for the bronze case and green dial – in fact it sticks to the same formula applied...

In-Depth: Patek Philippe Ref. 5236P In-line Perpetual Calendar SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref 5236P In-line Perpetual Dec 29, 2021

In-Depth: Patek Philippe Ref. 5236P In-line Perpetual Calendar

Patek Philippe introduced a bunch of notable new models this year, including the recent “Advanced Research” Minute Repeater Ref. 5750P. The most notable amongst its accessible complications – accessible in a relative sense – is unquestionably the In-line Perpetual Calendar ref. 5236P, an all-new model with a movement developed from the ground up. The ref. 5236P takes its cues from the “linear” perpetual calendar pocket watches of the 1950s and 1960s, namely the ref. 725 with perpetual calendar only, and the refs. 699, 843, and 844 that also included a minute repeater. The nickname stems from the calendar display within a single, horizontal window under 12 o’clock, which instantly sets such watches apart from conventional calendar displays that rely on multiple sub-dials. A ref. 699 from 1956 with linear calendar and minute repeater This same straight-line calendar display has been reproduced on the ref. 5236P – a substantial feat considering its compact size and relatively large calendar window. It was realised with an all-new calendar mechanism with a cleverly designed display, but one still constructed as a traditional, “grand lever” calendar. Initial thoughts Despite its vintage inspiration, the ref. 5236P looks and feels like a contemporary watch, especially because of its colours and size. In the hand the ref. 5236P is substantial, both in diameter and weight. At 41.3 mm it’s one of the biggest perpetual calendar watches Patek Philippe makes. In...

Czapek Debuts the Antarctique “Monochrome White” SJX Watches
Czapek Debuts Dec 15, 2021

Czapek Debuts the Antarctique “Monochrome White”

Revived six years ago via crowdfunding, Czapek’s original claim to fame was being the original business partner of Patek before he joined with Philippe. The brand has since gained traction thanks to its proprietary movements and more recently, a sports watch with an integrated bracelet. Now the sports watch is the basis of a collaboration between Czapek and Dutch watch magazine Monochrome. Featuring a muted, all-white livery, the Antarctique “Monochrome White” has a grained dial in pearl white. Initial thoughts While the Antarctique is a new entry into the integrated-bracelet sports watch segment, the design sticks to a familiar formula because there are only so many ways a sports watch with an integrated bracelet can be accomplished. The Monochrome edition sets itself apart with its white dial – a good look that’s unusual for a sports watch, a category where blue, grey, and green dials dominate. It’s a refreshing look that’s also practical, as light-coloured dial makes for good legibility. The case and bracelet of the Antarctique are also finished neatly with contrasting surfaces, but where the watch shines is the movement. Developed in-house with the help of specialists, it’s a micro-rotor automatic with a modern style but unusual details that evoke vintage pocket watch movements. Few competitors in this category and price range have movements that are similarly elaborate in construction and finish. The individual “finger” bridges for the gear tra...

Tudor Introduces the Pelagos FXD “Marine Nationale” SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces Nov 10, 2021

Tudor Introduces the Pelagos FXD “Marine Nationale”

Earlier this year Tudor resurrected its partnership with France’s navy, the Marine Nationale, some two decades after it last supplied military-spec Submariners to the navy’s divers. Now the brand has finally revealed a project two years in the making, the Pelagos FXD “Marine Nationale”. Developed together with the members of the Commando Hubert, the navy’s elite combat divers, the Pelagos FXD is an actual military issue timepiece – the unit’s divers wear the same watch during operations – with fixed bars and a no-nonsense aesthetic. The Pelagos FXD is a time-only diver just like the Submariner ref. 9401/0 “MN” issued to divers of the French navy in the 1970s Initial thoughts Images of a Commando Hubert graduation ceremony appeared online several months ago, revealing the watch. So the Pelagos FXD was expected, but still manages to surprise. It is clearly a nod to the ref. 9401/0 “MN” of the 1970s – nicknamed “snowflake” after its hands and dial – and is as close to a vintage Submariner as a modern Tudor can be. But it still has a few extras appeal to military watch aficionados. The fabric strap has a Velcro fastener so it can be adjusted more precisely to any wrist size Most notable are the lugs, which are a reinterpretation of the fixed bars found on vintage military-issue dive watches. They form one piece with the case, making the connection between the case and strap far more robust. It’s certainly over-engineered for anyone who isn...

Only Watch 2021: Independent Watchmaking Highlights SJX Watches
F.P. Journe FFC Blue Nov 3, 2021

Only Watch 2021: Independent Watchmaking Highlights

The top lots amongst independent watchmakers at Only Watch 2021 are no doubt the F.P. Journe FFC Blue and Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II, but they will cost six or seven figures. But half of the participants at Only Watch are independent watchmakers, so there are a few more interesting examples of the genre, which might possibly be reasonably affordable. We round up five notable watches amongst the “indies”, ranging from the quirky and fascinating Urwerk that’s an upgraded example of the brand’s earliest watch to the stunningly engine-turned Andersen Genève Quotidiana. Urwerk UR-102 “Gaïa” Perhaps the avant-garde independent watchmaker, Urwerk is best known for revolutionising the presentation of time, having invented time displays using satellite cubes on a carousel and prisms in cylinders. But the brand’s creation for Only Watch 2021 looks nothing like its recent work, because it’s a quarter-century old, an artefact from the brand’s start-up days. The UR-102 “Gaïa” is a prototype of one of the brand’s earliest models – it is actually a vintage Urwerk – but dressed up smartly for the occasion, with a special case back decoration that signifies the brand’s success. The platinum case back is adorned with a sparkling, deep blue emblem that alludes to the Gaïa Prize, which Urwerk’s founders won in 2020 That said, being an Urwerk, the time display is far from rudimentary. While neither a cube nor a prism, it is still a wond...

Patek Philippe Introduces the World Time Chronograph Ref. 5930P SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Oct 14, 2021

Patek Philippe Introduces the World Time Chronograph Ref. 5930P

Patek Philippe just launched a trio of new chronographs, all variants of existing models. While the ref. 5905/1A in steel is the most affordable, the World Time Chronograph ref. 5930P-001 is surely the most striking with its emerald-green guilloche dial (which is a brighter shade than the olive green of the ref. 5905/1A or Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-014). And despite a dial colour that’s novel for a world-time model, the ref. 5930P does hark back to historical world-time watches with its silver cities ring. Initial thoughts The ref. 5930P is only a different take on an existing model, but it’s certainly a vivid new look. Past versions of the ref. 5930 were either subdued (which was the original in blue) or too much (the Singapore edition in red). The ref. 5930P in emerald green appears striking but just right. A key point of appeal is the silver world-time ring that gives it a look that more closely resembles vintage world time watches, which is a good thing for anyone who appreciates historical Patek Philippe design. This contrasts with earlier versions of the ref. 5930, both of which had tone-on-tone world-time rings, making them less prominent. Notably, Patek Philippe historically utilised such bright colours only on limited editions, so the ref. 5930P is an unusual watch amongst the standard offerings. That said, with green being the most fashionable colour of the year, it goes without saying that the ref. 5930P will be mostly unavailable for the near future. Emerald g...

Highlights: Watches Owned by Eric Clapton and Hiroshi Fujiwara at Sotheby’s SJX Watches
Patek Philippe chronographs commissioned Sep 29, 2021

Highlights: Watches Owned by Eric Clapton and Hiroshi Fujiwara at Sotheby’s

Sotheby’s upcoming Hong Kong auction is a major event – 266 lots is sizeable – but boasts a surprising lineup of historically significant watches in a variety of genres, from establishment brands to independent watchmaking (including a dozen F.P. Journe), and even museum-quality, enamelled automata. Now we turn to an unusual group of watches from the collections of two well-known watch collectors: musician Eric Clapton and Japanese streetwear guru Hiroshi Fujiwara (who last year designed a watch for TAG Heuer). The all important name on the certificate The ex-Clapton watches have been consigned by the current owners, who number just two. The first consigned all the Rolex sports watches, which he bought direct from Mr Clapton. And the second is a prominent collector from the Southern Hemisphere who consigned the trio of custom-dial Patek Philippe chronographs commissioned by Mr Clapton, a set of watches the owner accumulated primarily at auction. On the other hand, the watches from Mr Fujiwara’s collection come from the man himself. Mr Fujiwara consigned three watches, including a matched pair of ref. 5970 with “Tiffany” dials. We round up eight highlights from these celebrity-owned offerings. The full catalogue and sale registration are available on Sothebys.com. The ex-Clapton Often spotted wearing notable watches, modern and vintage, Eric Clapton has long been known to be a watch aficionado (and also an accomplished collector of Ferrari). Mr Clapton has ...

Grand Seiko Introduces the Spring Drive 5 Days Caliber 9RA2 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Aug 24, 2021

Grand Seiko Introduces the Spring Drive 5 Days Caliber 9RA2

Having introduced a new design language along with the all-new, automatic 9SA5 last year, Grand Seiko is now doing the same for the Spring Drive. The watchmaker has debuted a pair of Heritage Collection Seiko 140th Anniversary Limited Editions, the “Minamo” SLGA007 in steel and the “Tree Rings” SLGA008 in rose gold. Both are powered by the 9RA2 that’s part of the family of latest-generation Spring Drive movements first seen last year in the Grand Seiko Diver 600 m SLGA001. Just 5 mm high, the slimness of the 9RA5 means the pair of new models are the thinnest Grand Seiko Spring Drive watches to date. Initial thoughts The new models are essentially Spring Drive versions of the self-winding Heritage models launched last year (including an ultra-luxe platinum version and the more recent “White Birch”). That’s a good thing for two reasons. One is the intrinsic appeal of the design, which is vintage inspired and appealing, packaged in a case that’s a good size and easily wearable. And the other is the increased consistency in styling between Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive and automatic models, doing away with the confusing distinction between movements and designs. The “Minamo” SLGA007 in steel But that’s also the downside for the buyers of the limited-edition models (either these or the automatics), since the design has been replicated as a standard-production watch with the automatic movement, and the same will surely be done for the new 9RA2 Spring Dr...

Louis Roederer Cristal 2013 And Cristal Rosé 2012: As Good As Champagne Gets Quill & Pad
Jun 29, 2021

Louis Roederer Cristal 2013 And Cristal Rosé 2012: As Good As Champagne Gets

Ken Gargett just had the chance to try Louis Roederer's Cristal Rosé 2012 and Cristal 2013 champagnes. For many, a good sparkling rosé is a thing of beauty and this one tops most. While Ken's usual response to a young Cristal is that it is fabulous, he feels it something of a shame that the 2013 Cristal was not given a bit longer before release. However, both of these vintages are glorious now and there is no doubt they will age and improve for many years.

Zenith Introduces the Next-Generation El Primero A386 SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces Jun 29, 2021

Zenith Introduces the Next-Generation El Primero A386

Though Zenith celebrated the 50th anniversary of its iconic chronograph movement in 2019, it took a while longer for the long-awaited successor to the original El Primero. Looking like yet another remake on the surface – the design is almost a dead ringer for the A386 of 1969 – the retro styling of the new Chronomaster Original belies the latest-generation El Primero, the all-new cal. 3600 that boasts a lightning seconds hand. Initial thoughts The Chronomaster Original essentially repackages the vintage A386, preserving the distinctive design while installing a modern movement. As a result, the watch is familiar and appealing in broad strokes, but has a few surprises in its details. Take the dials for instance, which are offered in two guises. One is the traditional “tri-colour” from 1969, while the other is an unusual and gorgeous “panda” dial that stands out from its counterparts. Ironically, the black-and-silver dial looks more retro, in part due to the faux-vintage lume, despite not having the original colour palette. The case is a compact 38 mm, identical to the vintage original. It’s heartening – but surprising – to see the return of the 38 mm case, which was ostensibly retired not too long ago. The move back to the 38 mm case makes sense, since it accommodates enthusiasts who prefer a size true to the vintage original, as well as catering to prevailing fad for classical, elegant style. Despite the case being the same diameter as it was in 1969, t...