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Two Broke Watch Snobs
Grand Seiko answers years of requests with two smaller Evolution 9 divers at 40.8mm, powered by the new Spring Drive 9RB1 U.F.A. in titanium.
SJX Watches
Cartier’s debuts at Watches & Wonders 2026 include notable crowd pleasers, with a standout being the Santos-Dumont LM with a mesh-link bracelet in matching precious metal. Inspired by watch bracelets of the 1920s, the new bracelet is 15 links across with each link just 1.15 mm high, making it supple and ergonomic. Very much catering to fad for such bracelets, it is also removable and sports a double-folding clasp. The new Santos-Dumont models themselves are cosmetic variations of the existing model, with the most unusual being the yellow gold version with a dial of obsidian, which is volanic glass. Initial thoughts The new Santos-Dumont pairs the familiar square watch with an appropriately retro mesh-link bracelet that fits the design perfectly. Like the Les Opus trio, this Santos-Dumont trio isn’t imaginative or novel, but it is executed well and has tactile appeal. Both the clasp and flush-fit end links that continue the link pattern are a pleasing touch. In some ways the bracelet is perhaps more fitting for the model given its history as an aviator’s watch, although the Santos-Dumont now is very much a dress watch in the modern sense of the term. The commercial success of 2023’s Tank Normale with a bracelet probably helped convince Cartier that such bracelets are a winner, despite the substantial cost of a precious metal bracelet today. That said, the new Santos-Dumont on a bracelet is pricey but not outrageously so. It starts at €44,400 in yellow gold and ris...
SJX Watches
Cartier’s crowd favourite Privé line is now 10 years old and the jeweller is returning to its greatest hits for the occasion with two offerings, the first being the flagship Cartier Privé Les Opus. “Opus” is a trio of watches, all in platinum, each being of the most desirable models in the Privé collection – Tank Normale, Tortue Chronographe Monopoussoir, and Crash Squelette. Both the Tank Normale and Tortue Monopoussoir are variants of earlier models, retaining the same case and movement as before, but now with silvered dials featuring red markings. The Crash skeleton, on the other hand, is a new model powered by a new calibre, the 1967 MC, a hand-wind movement with hand hammered bridges. The Crash skeleton is limited to 150 pieces, while the other two models are regular production The second anniversary trio is Cartier Privé La Collection, yet another trio of greatest hits, but in yellow gold and not limited edition, which we’ll detail in another story. Cartier Privé La Collection made up of the Tank Cintree, Tank Normale, and Cloche Initial thoughts It is now a given that Cartier will mine its rich archive for new launches and Les Opus is exactly that. Given the strength of Cartier’s iconic designs, all three watches in the collection are appealing, with the Crash being a little more novel than its siblings in the line-up thanks to its skeleton movement. None of the three watches win any awards for imagination or innovation, but that is arguably besides...
Monochrome
This year, Patek Philippe celebrates the 50th anniversary of a cult watch, the Nautilus. As expected, we are getting some celebratory limited editions. The 30th anniversary of the collection saw the introduction of the references 5711, 5712 Moon and 5980 Chronograph, with what was at the time a true re-launch of the Nautilus (6 references […]
Hodinkee
Two months out from the world's biggest watch fair, Watches and Wonders Geneva outlines a broader, more city-wide program for 2026.
Fratello
The only sense of nature you can experience when spending days on end in Geneva’s Palexpo event center is by handling Grand Seiko novelties. Yes, we sometimes joke about the plethora of nature-inspired dial designs that the Japanese brand releases. Still, they’re most welcome during Watches and Wonders. After a couple of steamy sessions in […] Visit Introducing: Grand Seiko’s 38mm 62GS SBGH376 “Sakura-Wakaba” And 37mm Evolution 9 SLGB006 “Ice Forest At Dawn” to read the full article.
SJX Watches
After introducing the G.F.J. Caliber 135 last year, Zenith has expanded the line with two new models and created a new collection in the process. Following closely in the footsteps of the platinum debut model, the new additions are dressed in 18k yellow gold and tantalum, with richly furnished natural stone dials. The cal. 135 returns - now finished in a more traditional manner - boasting impressive performance that does justice to the movement’s enviable competition record. Initial thoughts The return of the legendary cal. 135 was something I always hoped I’d see, but never thought I would. But in a moment akin to Omega’s recreation of the famed cal. 321 chronograph, Zenith brought back one of the most successful observatory calibres in history. The movement made its return last year in grand style to mark the brand’s 160th anniversary, well built but priced well above Zenith’s typical domain. The style was also an acquired taste, with a hand-guilloche chapter ring, with a matching pattern machined into the movement bridges. The dial treatment was one thing, but the finishing of the movement arguably dulled what could have been an ascendant moment. For 2026, two new dial configurations - bloodstone and onyx - join what can now be called an official collection, both equally as luxe as the model’s blue debut. Fortunately, when it comes to the cal. 135, Zenith left the brick-style bridge finishing behind, opting for more ordinary - but more attractive ...
SJX Watches
Following a belter of an anniversary year during which the brand launched, among other things, the world’s most complicated wristwatch and a quarter-ton astronomical clock, Vacheron Constantin (VC) kicks off Watches & Wonders with something more low-profile, both literally and figuratively - the Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin. While small in stature at just 7.35 mm thick, it’s what’s inside the counts - namely, an all-new micro-rotor calibre with 80 hours of power reserve and seemingly limitless potential. Initial thoughts The new Overseas Ultra-Thin is little different from the model that preceded it, though the ref. 2000V remained rare enough throughout its production run that the format still feels fresh. It also helps that despite the visual similarity, the ref. 2500V is a completely new watch inside and out, catapulting a model that arguably lagged behind its one obvious competitor into instant parity. The ref. 2500V is best understood from the inside out. Audemars Piguet replaced the well-loved historical cal. 2121 with its more modern cal. 7121 in 2022, and now it’s VC’s turn, being the last of the big three purveyors of mass-market fine watchmaking to replace its aging Jaeger-LeCoultre cal. 920-based movements with an in-house alternative. The reluctance to replace this venerable platform is understandable. What VC calls the cal. 1120 is one of the last movements of its generation still in use, and carries a historical weight missing from many moder...
Worn & Wound
Space is having a huge moment right now, and if you’re at all like me, you’ve been transported to a time in your youth when you were soaking up anything space exploration related as much as the sun. Well, IWC is going to keep space at the forefront of everyone’s mind here at Watches & Wonders as they’ve just released their Pilot’s Venturer Vertical Drive, their first watch engineered and certified for spaceflight. I actually got to see this watch back in February while I was out in Los Angeles with IWC at Vast’s headquarters. Vast is the company building what is set to become the first commercial space station, Haven-1. And that context matters, because this isn’t just a “space-inspired” watch. The Venturer Vertical Drive was designed for actual use in orbit, and it’s already been certified for flight in partnership with Vast. Historically, space watches have basically just been modified aviation watches, but IWC took a different approach here. Instead of adapting something that already existed, they started from a much simpler question: what does a watch actually need to do in space? The answer led to a few decisions that feel genuinely new, starting with the most obvious one - there’s no crown. From an outsider’s perspective, this feels almost like a flex (and it kinda is). But the way that IWC CEO Chris Grainger-Herr explained it during our live presentation was that in a zero-gravity environment, as astronauts are moving through tight spac...
Worn & Wound
The Bulgari Octo Finissimo is a certifiably unique watch that you can identify on someone’s wrist from across a room. Part of this is because of its exotic integrated design, and the other part is that they are kind of huge, despite being very thin. That contrast has always been part of the appeal, but also part of the problem. For years, the Octo Finissimo has represented an avant-garde take on modern watch design. Thin, minimal, architectural, and kind of brutal, it exists as a distant relative of a Genta-era idea, but pushed into something more experimental. It has also built its reputation on technical achievement, frequently contending for the world’s thinnest watch, and holding that title more than once over the last decade. But this year, Bulgari isn’t focused on thinness. Instead, they’ve turned their attention to something far more practical: wearability. For the first time since the line launched in 2014, Bulgari has introduced a smaller “consumer” model, bringing the Octo Finissimo down to 37mm. On paper, that might not sound like much. In practice, it changes everything. The standard 40mm models were always a bit deceptive. While 40mm is not particularly large for a round watch, the Octo Finissimo is anything but round. These watches are essentially flat squares with wide integrated lugs, creating a large corner-to-corner span and a cuff-like presence on the wrist. The result is a watch that wears significantly larger than its width suggests. It’s...
Worn & Wound
If you were take a poll of Grand Seiko enthusiasts and collectors to ask them what they thought was missing from the brand’s catalog, I have a feeling a significant portion of respondents would tell you the same thing: a great dive watch. Grand Seiko has, of course, been making divers for years, and a lot of them have been objectively outstanding and well liked by certain pockets of the Grand Seiko community. But they’ve never had a diver that’s really caught fire in the way that something like the Snowflake has – there’s no icon in their dive watch range. I think most would agree that this is at least in part because to this point the brand’s dive watches have always been on the chunky side, and not really a viable competitor to the Submariners and Seamasters of the world in terms of their wearability. Grand Seiko seeks to change that at Watches & Wonders this year, with the rather ambitious release of the new Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Diver. This new 40.8mm High-Intensity Titanium dive watch uses a new Spring Drive movement featuring the same tech as last year’s 9RB2 Spring Drive caliber, which boasts an accuracy rate of plus or minus 20 seconds per year. There are really two notable things about this watch. First, there’s the movement, Caliber 9RB1, which has the same U.F.A (Ultra Fine Accuracy) designation as the 9RB2 introduced last year. The 20 second annual accuracy rate is, according to Grand Seiko, the most accurate wristwatch movement powe...
Teddy Baldassarre
Grand Seiko has done something remarkable at Watches and Wonders for 2026. The headline story is the launch of the new Spring Drive UFA Ushio 300 divers, and on top of that, a new smaller case size. The new divers are available in two dial variations, the blue SLGB023 and the green SLGB025. Of course, the main attracti
Deployant
The iconic Historiques American 1921 gets a fresh take with a new dial design. 2 new sizes 36.5mm and 40mm, both in pink gold.
Fratello
With this year’s Cartier Privé release, the brand marks the 10th yearly Privé drop by revisiting three of its most iconic shapes. The Tank Normale, Tortue Chronographe Monopoussoir, and Crash Squelette return in a platinum execution with burgundy accents. In 2024, I spent time with the Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph and came away genuinely impressed. That […] Visit Just When I Thought It Couldn’t Get Better: Cartier Privé Tank Normale, Tortue, And Crash Squelette to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
The Japanese watchmaker unveiled its smallest dive watch at Watches & Wonders. Here's what you need to know.More
Deployant
Independent value king Ba111od acquires BCP Tourbillons. This is quite an unexpected, yet not totally surprising move by Thomas Baillod. Press Release with our usual commentary in italics. NEW: Ba111od Chapter 4 Tourbillon T.V.D The Ba111od Chapter 4 Tourbillon T.V.D will retail at CHF 8,200, before taxes. First 50 pieces to be delivered in SeptemberRead More
SJX Watches
Hungarian independent watchmaker Aaron Becsei, long known for his expert craftsmanship and flamboyant designs, has rebranded and launched the Becsei J.Z.A., a finely made time-only watch with a more digestible design that should broaden his reach with contemporary collectors. Like Mr Becsei’s earlier work, the J.Z.A. is substantially handmade and will be produced in limited numbers - eight pieces, to be specific. Initial thoughts Aaron Bescei is an independent watchmaker of the old school - a craftsman with the bench experience to produce a watch from scratch. This aspect of his craft is noteworthy in a segment crowded with engineers and constructors that typically farm out finishing and assembly. He’s also been around awhile, having been granted admittance to the AHCI in 2009, though for more than a decade he’s traded under the phonetic pronunciation of his name, Bexei. After a relatively quiet period, the third-generation Hungarian independent watchmaker returns with a rebranded business and a new round watch that manages to stand out despite its now-common format. Mr Bescsei’s previous watches were extravagantly finished with impressively wide, rounded bevels and other lovely details. In many ways, he was a decade ahead of the demand for such watches, but his designs were often maximalist and baroque. His earlier watches, the Dignitas, in particular, featured a massive rectangular case and engraved scrollwork - an aesthetic in tension with contemporary tas...
Fratello
When I heard Gagà Laboratorio was launching its first dive watch, the Aqualab, I was skeptical. The brand’s distinct identity made me question how it would translate into a sportier, tool-oriented direction. That’s a testament to the uniqueness of its design language, not a criticism of its existing watches. The Labormatic, for example, always struck […] Visit Gagà Laboratorio’s New Aqualab Pulls Off A Tricky Design Brief to read the full article.
Hodinkee
The two-time Masters Champion wears a special Omega to celebrate the victory.
Time+Tide
Czapek & Cie releases a trio of Antarctique models with grade 5 titanium cases and bracelets, and Cosmic Blue dials The Dark Sector and Révélation models are available in both 40.5mm and 38.5mm, and the Tourbillon model is available in 40.5mm. Each model features Cosmic Blue as the main dial colour, with each model appearing … ContinuedThe post Cool blues and feather light, Czapek & Cie releases three new Antartique models in full titanium and blue dials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Singer Reimagined releases a new watch in the Callabero collection which they call DualTrack. Two new references are released.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Thinking about upgrading from the Seiko 5KX to the Marinemaster? Compare movement, build, design, lume, and wearability to see if the price jump makes sense.
Fratello
It’s Sunday morning, which means it’s time for another installment of Sunday Morning Showdown. It is the last showdown before Watches and Wonders 2026 starts on Tuesday. During the event, we will see lots of new watches that will certainly return in our Sunday Morning Showdown series. For this week, though, we decided to stage […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Citizen Tsuyosa 37 Vs. Casio Edifice EFK-110 to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Art Deco and high horology were on full display at our opening event in the Design District.
Hodinkee
Trackside at Circuit of the Americas-and a loud, fast introduction to MotoGP.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Casio refreshes the A159 with Seigaiha-inspired dials, adding a Japanese design detail to one of its most iconic vintage digital watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
Longines has been gradually eating up market share amongst other brands in the enthusiast arena, and with releases like the Spirit, the Zulu Time, Legend Diver, updated conquests, and a slew of other heritage pieces, it is no surprise. But there was an area Longines has been overdue for an update, and it comes from pro
SJX Watches
One of the top lots at Antiquorum’s Geneva auction that happens in May 2026 is the hitherto unknown and likely unique Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 3700/13. It is a striking combination of yellow gold for the case and bracelet, a diamond-set bezel, and a rose gold dial with brilliant-cut diamond indices. Ordinarily a Nautilus “Jumbo” at auction would not be especially intriguing, but this one stands out for a few reasons. For one, the aesthetic is peculiar but attractive. The combination of a pink dial with diamonds on a yellow gold case is a strange one, but the watch is unexpectedly appealing. Even the small diamonds on the bezel add to the appeal. Moreover, the watch comes from the family of the original owner – and even includes the original certificate. Pink on yellow Consigned to Antiquorum by the grandson of the first owner, this Nautilus “Jumbo” is the only one of its type known and most probably unique. According to Antiquorum, the only other ref. 3700 with a special dial is the prototype with a white dial that sold at Sotheby’s about a decade ago. Notably, the watch includes its original box and more crucially, the original certificate that states the dial is “or rose, index brillants”. The certificate reveals the watch was sold in 1984 at Somazzi, a retailer in Lugano. Also included is an invoice from Gübelin from a year for an additional link. The case bears the serial number “559215”, with “215” also engraved on the flank of the beze...
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Omega Constellation First up this week is a nice vintage Omega Constellation. Now, this isn’t the more well known pie-pan version, but it’s still a stunning piece made with the same attention to detail. This is a later 1960s version, with a large “C” style case that is in excellent condition. Nice crisp edges with the original brushed and polished finish. The caseback observatory medallion is not an added gold piece, but rather engraved directly into the steel back. The crown is signed and looks correct. The dial has a beautiful cross-hatch linen texture to it, with thin stick markers and stick hands. There is a day/date window at three o’clock. Dial looks clean and original. The watch comes on the original brick link bracelet, although one of the links is broken and it will need repair. No movement picture but the watch runs per the seller. View auction here Seiko JDM Sport Diver Here’s a great Seiko diver that is a modern re-issue of a vintage model. In the late 1990s Seiko did a series of Sport Diver re-issues with modern specs and movements. These are a great way to have that vintage vibe but not have to worry about babying the watch. This one has a tonneau shaped...
Hodinkee
Starting in Hong Kong on April 24th and running into December, the house will offer pieces from Cartier Paris, London, and New York - plus a lot of insanely impressive other watches from Rolex, Patek, Dufour, and more.
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