3,628 articles · 41 videos found · page 107 of 123
Monochrome
Collaborations in the watch industry have become all the rage, bringing diverse brands and creative minds together. While most collabs typically result in a single watch that blends the DNA of two brands, high-end independent watchmaker H. Moser & Cie and micro-brand Studio Underd0g join forces for a fun and unexpected collab dubbed “it’s about […]
Worn & Wound
It’s been an undeniably good year for watches over at Oris. Whether your tastes skew toward the Aquis or the Divers Sixty-Five, there have been plenty of wonderful new additions to the Oris catalog in 2024, from the all-new Aquis introduced at Watches and Wonders to the slew of exciting LEs that have punctuated the year. For Geneva Watch Days, Oris is continuing the trend, marking Geneva’s second biggest week in watches with not only a new Divers Sixty-Five LE but a brand new generation of Aquis Chronograph as well. Since its introduction in 2015, the Divers Sixty-Five has been a clear hit for Oris. It’s one of those watches you actually see in the real world, and the versatile model has been the platform for some of the brand’s most popular and sought-after collaborations and limited editions. This summer alone has seen three wildly different interpretations of the Divers Sixty-Five hit the market, each with its own distinct appeal. This latest addition to the lineup sees Oris collaborating with France’s Ligue de Football Professionnel (LFP), along with LFP’s charity partner CNAPE (the National Convention of Child Protection Associations). Inspired by CNAPE’s mission, this 1,000-piece LE is replete with small details highlighting the partnership. Standouts here include the deep blue dial and the distinct font used for all the dial text, which is inspired by a child’s handwriting - a choice augmented by the rainbow of color used to spell out “water resi...
SJX Watches
MB&F;’s sculptural clocks made by L’Epee 1839 have ranged from sci-fi spiders to robots. And now the pair have debuted their most elaborate and expensive desk clock to date, the Albatross. Inspired by the airship of the same name in the Jules Verne novel Robur the Conqueror, the steampunk Albatross does more than tell the time. The clock also incorporates an hourstriker as well as a propellor automaton that activates alongside the hourstriker. Initial thoughts The Albatross is more interesting mechanically than MB&F;’s past collaborations with L’Epee, which were mostly about the form of the clock. This, on the other hand, incorporates mechanics into the design with the propeller automaton linked to the hourstriker. Coupled with the chiming and spinning propellors, the sheer size – 60 cm high and some 17 kg – makes the Albatross a truly impressive object. But the Albatross costs about CHF120,000 before taxes, which is a big number even considering its complexity. While the impressive mechanics and careful construction of the clock arguably justify the price, the price tag puts it in competition with a lot of compelling watches, at least for a watch collector. For someone looking for an impressive desktop object or the ultimate in home decor, this has arguably less competition. Jules Verne’s airship Made of steel, brass, and aluminium, the Albatross contains two separate movements. The first is a twin barrel, eight-day movement for the timekeeping and hourstriker...
Worn & Wound
Two prominent industry insiders have recently collaborated to establish a new watch company, Gagà Laboratorio, based in Switzerland. Mo Coppoletta will serve as the Art Director, and Ruben Tomella as the owner of the Italy based Gagà Milano brand and the newly formed company, Gagà Laboratorio. Mr. Tomella has had a successful tenure with Gagà Milano for two decades. He founded brand offshoot Manufacture Gagà in Switzerland, which has focused on creating high-end products for Gagà Milano in collaboration with leading industry partners, including the development of tourbillon movements in partnership with Hysek, a Swiss independent brand. In 2020, Mr. Tomella decided to redirect the activities of the Swiss company and embarked on establishing a new brand, Gagà Laboratorio. The mission of Gagà Laboratorio is to create entry-level luxury timepieces that emphasize design while maintaining high-quality movement standards. To achieve this vision, he partnered with artist Mo Coppoletta, a long-time friend. Together, they have initiated this new chapter for Gagà. Mo Coppoletta is a world-renowned artist, designer, and tattoo artist, known for his collaborations with Bvlgari on two Octo Finissimo limited editions featuring his tattoo artwork. In my interview with Mr. Tomella, he discusses the vision of Gagà Laboratorio. “After 16 years in the watchmaking industry at the helm of Gagà Milano, in 2020, I felt a strong pull towards the world of independent watchmaking and d...
Worn & Wound
As India’s luxury market continues to grow, there has been an opportunity for more domestic-made brands to shine. One such brand is the Bangalore Watch Company. Since 2018, the brand has been making timepieces that are inspired by the rich landscape and heritage of the subcontinent. One such series of watches, MACH 1, has centered on the Indian Air Force. Past iterations have focused on various motifs, from formation aerobatics to aircraft carriers. For their latest launch, Bangalore Watch Company has set their sights to the clouds and high-altitude helicopters. The Himalayas have long captivated the cultural imagination of the world – and especially those in India. With over 1,600 peaks with a towering 6,000 meter presence, the mountain range inspires both fear and awe. It’s incredible, then, to think that some of the top aviators in India use helicopters for reconnaissance and resupply operations in some of the most challenging flying conditions on the planet. Enter the Mach 1 Avalanche, inspired by the harsh beauty of the Himalayan peaks and the danger that is intrinsically tied to the airspace. This is first evident with the “Frostpeak” dial, inspired by freshly fallen snow, which shimmers with a motif de grain that plays with light in varying conditions. The bright red minute hand, coated with Super-Luminova, draws inspiration from airspeed indicators and the vibrant colors of mountain rescue helicopters while the case back is engraved with an image of a hel...
Worn & Wound
Over the past few years, Zenith’s limited edition releases made in collaboration with Felipe Pantone have been a highlight among the deluge of collaborative limited editions that have become so popular as of late. The Zenith x Pantone pieces tend to feel like little pieces of art, which is appropriate when the collaborate is a visual artist. These collaborations also seem to be right at home within the Defy line, a collection that has embraced a flair for color and the avant-garde as long as it has been in existence. The latest release from the pair is perhaps their most ambitious yet, and marks the first time Pantone has had a hand in a watch in the current Defy Skyline collection. The Defy Skyline Tourbillon Felipe Pantone takes what is almost certainly the brand’s most exotic Defy and gives it a blast of the chromatic and optical touches that Pantone is known for. The tourbillon, of course, is the literal centerpiece of the design, and the bridge has been refashioned here as a lightning bolt, a motif found throughout Pantone’s work. Its colorful gradient and metallic finish is reminiscent of the finishing that made the first Pantone collaboration such a standout. While the previous Felipe Pantone collaborations have featured dials that are largely skeletonized, a different approach was taken with the new Defy Skyline Tourbillon. The dial is a large sapphire disc and has been micro-engraved with a pattern of concentric circles. This “moire” effect is anothe...
Quill & Pad
In recent years, several factors have come together resulting in the exponential rise of microbrand watches. This new microbrand wave is one of the biggest developments in the broader watch market. I would mention here that not all microbrands are equal. There are many watches out there that, to be honest, are not worth your time. However, some microbrands are getting it right as Raman Kalra highlights here.
Worn & Wound
Xeric is a watch brand with a cult following based on a reputation for creating some of the most ingenious and affordable statement watches in the microbrand world. Their pieces are often conversation starters, featuring unusual time telling displays and lots of color. If you’re familiar with some of their avant-garde designs, it’s perhaps not a surprise that they have an entire sub-collection of NASA branded watches. It just kind of makes sense that watches with a decidedly futuristic, sci-fi inspired look would connect to the space agency. Their latest NASA piece, however, is almost subdued in comparison to prior efforts, and if you’re interested in jumping into Xeric but not ready for a watch with complex satellite time telling mechanism, the new Artemis Chrono might be your speed. The Artemis Chrono is named for the NASA program that will bring human beings to the lunar surface for the first time since the Apollo missions over 50 years ago. Returning to the moon is an important space travel milestone so it’s no surprise that Xeric would celebrate it with a limited edition release. The basis for the design, according to Xeric, is an updated take on the tachymeter equipped chronograph, which of course is exactly the type of watch that has become famous as the space watch over the last five decades. For the new Artemis Chrono, the bezel has become a focal point and is highlighted with bold colors and has been glass coated to aid in legibility and make the whol...
Worn & Wound
Earlier this year, when Dutch independent brand Holthinrichs announced their new Signature Collection, we thought it was one of the most impressive new projects in indie watchmaking. It represented a bold shift for the brand, moving from complex, bespoke watchmaking to something more easily repeatable and at a more approachable price point. With advances in manufacturing capabilities, the new and less expensive Signature Collection actually represents a vision of watchmaking far closer to what brand founder Michiel Holthinrichs had always intended. It was, and remains, an exciting story for fans of the brand, but after seeing Holthinrichs steadily create watches that are more and more ambitious in recent years, we’ve kept hope alive that the brand hadn’t completely abandoned their goals of creating something truly high end and in-house. Now, on the heels of the Signature Collection comes word of a new project within Holthinrichs that would appear to fill the void of truly high end watchmaking that was left when the brand transitioned to their new model. Holthinrichs Haute Horlogerie provides an outlet for the brand’s most ambitious ideas, and the first watch under this new banner, the Ornament Nouveau, is unlike anything they’ve attempted previously. Like every watch Holthinrichs has made, the defining characteristic of the new piece is its sculptural design. But with the Ornament Nouveau, those ideas have been manifested not just in the case and dial design, b...
Worn & Wound
Dive watches have always been popular, and it is no wonder nearly every brand must have one in their repertoire. People love owning overengineered things. This could be a car capable of reaching speeds well over 100mph, even though the highest maximum speed limit in the U.S. is 85 (in Texas), or a watch with a water resistance rating of 200+ meters, despite the maximum depth for recreational diving being only 40. Not to mention that most dive watch owners rarely get their timepieces wet. The advantage of wearing a rugged dive watch is that it can withstand more than just water; it can also protect against dust, humidity, sweat, and even baby drool, prepared to handle any adventure. We have curated a selection of medium-sized dive watches suitable for small to medium wrists now that the trend for oversized watches has waned. We even believe that individuals with larger wrists may find them appealing. Dive watches have always been popular, and it is no wonder nearly every brand must have one in their repertoire. People love owning overengineered things. This could be a car capable of reaching speeds well over 100mph, even though the highest maximum speed limit in the U.S. is 85 (in Texas), or a watch with a water resistance rating of 200+ meters, despite the maximum depth for recreational diving being only 40. Not to mention that most dive watch owners rarely get their timepieces wet. The advantage of wearing a rugged dive watch is that it can withstand more than just water;...
Monochrome
The Ebstein family acquired Chronoswiss from founder Gerd R. Lang in 2012. Respecting many of Lang’s signature complications and design language, including his iconic Regulator, CEO Oliver Ebstein and his team have infused the brand with a refreshing contemporary spirit. Classical decorative techniques are injected with eye-catching colours and textures, producing a repertoire of vibrant […]
Worn & Wound
Citizen watches have played an enormous role in shaping the taste and opinions of many of us at Worn & Wound, and the same can likely be said for a large percentage of our readers. They are a brand that is truly ubiquitous in that their philosophy has always been to create watches for everyone, for every citizen, and that comes through loud and clear when you take even a cursory look at their product offerings at any given time. Over the past several years, Citizen has expanded their reach into the enthusiast watch world through a variety of releases that offer an exceptional amount of bang for buck when it comes to materials, technology, and aesthetics, while always maintaining their mass market appeal. Anyone who follows the watch industry closely knows that there are only a handful of brands that can truly claim to be embraced by both the mass market and the cult of watch aficionados, and Citizen is most definitely part of that exclusive group. This year marks the 100th anniversary of the very first Citizen watch, and they’re marking the occasion with a traveling exhibition that should appeal to hardcore collectors and hobbyists as well as more casual watch lovers and Citizen owners. The Essence of Time exhibit, which we had a chance to tour recently at its New York City debut, is an impressive testament to Citizen’s impact on the watch landscape over the past century, and offers the public an opportunity to view important Citizen watches from throughout the brand...
Worn & Wound
Okay, I admit it. I don’t really care about my watches’ accuracy. Don’t get me wrong, I want my watches to be relatively accurate - and I certainly want them to be in spec - but I want the watchmakers to care about that so I don’t have to. At the end of the day, I just can’t bring myself to care all that much about a couple of seconds over the course of a day. After all, what’s 10 or 15 seconds held up against 86,400? The world doesn’t really operate on that sort of accuracy, and my day-to-day writing about watches certainly doesn’t demand it. That said, while I may not care all that much about accuracy in the abstract, I love it when brands pursue accuracy. I’m a sucker for a clever escapement, a new technique, or a wild swing, and beyond all that, I love the creativity that the pursuit of accuracy tends to elicit. So when Horage announced the Revolution 3 Microreg last week, it certainly caught my eye. The standout feature of the Horage Revolution 3 Microreg, which was made using technology developed by Swiss engineering firm Miniswys, is the ability to regulate the watch at home using a miniature electric motor connected to the escapement’s regulator and controlled by an external dock which allows adjustment in increments as low as 0.1 seconds. Pair this with what is already a COSC-certified movement and what you get is the potential for a remarkably accurate watch that bridges the gap between, as Horage puts it, regulation and reality. One of t...
Worn & Wound
Well, we’re a little more than halfway through 2024, so we thought it would be a good time to ask our contributors about their favorite watches of the year to this point. It’s been, to put it mildly, a strange year. Coming off 2023, a watch release year that saw an almost never ending string of hits, 2024 seems a bit more sedate. But the highs, as they say, have been high, and there are specific sectors of the watch world that seem to be thriving with creativity and pushing serious boundaries. The selections here from our staff and contributors run the gamut, as always, from large brands to small, affordable to luxury. We’d love to hear from you: let us know what your favorite releases of 2024 are in the comments below. Zach Weiss – Sinn U50 HYDRO I had a bit of a hard time picking a watch for the topic, and to be honest, it’s because I haven’t been overly blown away by anything yet this year. Not that they’ve been bad; there just hasn’t been much that has really tempted me personally. That’s probably a good thing, but, as I pondered releases, one watch eventually stood out: the Sinn U50 Hydro. The Sinn U50 line was already a great success for the brand, bringing their distinctly modern, tool watch language to a manageably-sized dive watch. But, this year when they added their HYDRO technology to the package, it made it a watch that truly could only be a Sinn, and likely appreciated by only devoted Sinn enthusiasts. For those unaware, Sinn’s HYDRO w...
Worn & Wound
Lacher & Co. (Laco) is widely considered one of the pioneers of the German pilot watch genre. They have been crafting Flieger style timepieces in Pforzheim since 1925 and have truly mastered the art. They are experts at blending almost a century’s worth of expertise with innovative new ideas and technology. Traditional Flieger watches are recognized for their large, high-contrast black dials featuring stark white hands, numerals, and indices. In an effort to add charm and flair to the traditional, Laco is introducing new variations of their classic Augsburg and Aachen watches with fresh green dials. The difference between those two models lies in their dial configurations. The Augsburg follows the typical Type A dial layout, with a standard minute track surrounding the outer edge of the dial, and features beautiful, oversized hands. Alternatively, the Aachen has a Type B dial layout known as B-Uhr, or Beobachtungsuhren, which translates to observation watch. The latter’s perimeter displays the minutes, while a smaller track closer to the center shows the hours. As a result, the hands are quite different. The sword-shaped minute hand has most of its weight in the second half of its length, and the hour hand is shortened so that its tip stays within the inner circle. With their polished steel-framed hands and new green dials, they most certainly feel more contemporary and fashionable. Powering these pilot watches is the Laco 2S, which is based on the Miyota 82S0 caliber....
Fratello
This one won’t be easy. I do not often have to write about an important revolutionary invention like Horage and Miniswys’s Microreg. I could tell the story in a few words, but background clarification is necessary to understand its importance. So this article will initially be pretty theoretical and technical, but a beautiful watch will […] Visit Introducing: Horage × Miniswys Microreg - A Revolutionary Invention to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
The IWC Ingenieur is, in my opinion, one of Gerald Genta’s most underrated designs. But does it hold up compared to some of his most iconic pieces? Let’s find out! What We Love: Breathtaking design Moulds perfectly onto my wrist Genta heritage, but feels unique What We Don’t: A micro-adjust butterfly clasp would be nice Would love a display back Would be nice to have a COSC movement Final Score: 8.75/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 10/10 Build Quality: 8/10 IWC is a watch brand that for me personally, I hadn’t really done a deep dive into before. I feel that it is a brand that if you know, you know, and once you get into the brand, many people are hooked. But when I joined Watch Advice, I began to delve deeper into the industry and watchmaking itself. To my surprise (and nobody else’s), I discovered that IWC had contributed much more to horology than I had ever cared to know before. This and the fact that the guys visited the Manufacture in Schaffhausen in April, and regaled me of their adventures there! The giant perpetual calendar movement on the wall in the entry of the IWC Manufacture in Schaffhausen which we visited earlier this year before Watches & Wonders 2024 Founded in 1868 by Bostonian watchmaker Florentine Ariosto Jones, the International Watch Company found its roots during Jones’ time in Schaffhausen, Switzerland. From there, they would combine American manufacturing with Swiss craftsmanship to produce high-quality timepiece...
Worn & Wound
Lorier surprised us at the Windup Watch Fair in Chicago last week with a new release dubbed the Rambler, a collaboration with Indiana based Janus Motorcycles. For Lorier to collaborate with a motorcycle brand might not make much sense at first, but stepping back, the two brands are very much in sync. Both have a trade in classic aesthetics rooted in mid century styles, and both brands prize simplicity in design. Most of all, Janus and Lorier both place a high value on actually getting out and using their products authentically. The experiences tied to riding or the types of sporting activities you might undertake while wearing a Lorier are core to each brand, and the Rambler evokes and invites those experiences in the same way that the brand’s prior watches have been successful in doing so. The Rambler is built on the same 36mm case that will be familiar to owners of the Astra and the Falcon. Like those watches (especially the Falcon) the Rambler is inspired by the classic field watch. Something Lorier does in their marketing materials that I always appreciate is draw direct parallels to specific watches that provided inspiration in the design process, and for the Rambler they’ve cited classic field and pilot’s watches like the Rolex Oyster Imperial, Universal Geneve 20504, and the Omega 6B/159. More importantly than the specific references though, Lorier ties the Rambler to motorcycle culture through the people who would have worn those watches. These are the war ...
Teddy Baldassarre
Having a collection of watches isn’t generally something you plan on. It’s something that emerges over time, and it’s rarely a linear path. While it may seem natural to focus on finding the perfect watch or watches to fill out your watch box, the reality is that all watches have their faults, and the real key is learning which of those you can live with, and which you can’t. In time, some of those, let’s call them quirks, can even become endearing. With that in mind, instead of looking at watches that will begin a collection, let us take a look at watches that will end up lasting in your collection. Sure, they could start your collection, but they could just as easily end it, whether that collection consists of two watches, or 50. With that, here are 5 watches that would kick off any collection with a bang, and that I feel would have a high likelihood of sticking around for the long term. Disclaimer: these selections will lean a bit toward the tool watch end of the spectrum, as those are the watches that I find the most well-rounded and practical for my purposes. If you’re looking for some classier recommendations in the same vein, keep an eye out for a future installment. Brew Metric The Brew Metric is a remarkably fun, simple watch that represents the sheer creativity happening in the small independent brand space. This is a great watch to start with for a few reasons. First, it can be had in a wide variety of colorways, which range from classic and de...
Fratello
Another Friday, another Top 5! This week, we return to highlighting some of the best watches of the first half of 2024. After already having discussed recently released dive watches, it’s now time to look at GMTs. With most people getting ready to travel for the summer holidays, this is a timely topic. We have […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 GMT Watches Of The First Half Of 2024 - Featuring Tudor, Christopher Ward, RZE, And More to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Now a legend in his own time, François-Paul Journe is an independent watchmaker who has created some of the most complicated and most ingenious timepieces in contemporary watchmaking. But having quietly previewed it last year, Mr Journe finally launched a watch that is, on its face, surprising for his brand: the Élégante Gino’s Dream. Many brands have “rainbow” watches in their catalogues, but as is always the case with Mr Journe, his “rainbow” creation is done his own inimitable way. Based on his inventive quartz watch, the Élégante Gino’s Dream is set with synthetic gemstones of glass-ceramic composite. The colours and model name are a tribute to the late Gino Cukrowicz (1959-2021), one of Mr Journe’s best friends and a longtime business partner. Initial thoughts With the popularity – and value – of “rainbow” watches, it seems like every watch brand has one in its line-up, from the Patek Philippe Aquanaut minute repeater in rainbow stones from end to end to Tudor’s special edition for the VCARB Formula 1 team. So an F.P. Journe in those colours isn’t surprising, yet the Élégante “Gino’s Dream” is unexpected. As with much he has done, Mr Journe didn’t do a “rainbow” like anyone else. Instead of an exceptionally expensive gem-set watch – a favoured approach as a sure way to increase revenue without boosting production – he created something entry-level, more or less. And the watch has a deeply personal aspect to it – Gino...
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Unbranded Yachtingraf Vintage Chronograph First up this week is this killer vintage unbranded version of a Yema Yachtingraf chronograph. The original Yema is a cult classic and highly sought after. This no-name example may lack a name brand, but it has all the style of the original. Including the unique big-eye sub-dial look with the red white and blue elapsed minute dial as well as a date window at 6 o’clock. The steel case looks to have been polished but still looks nice, and the black count-down bezel is in great shape. Seller states the hands were professionally relumed. The watch is powered by a Valjoux 7734 manual wind movement that the seller states has been serviced and is working perfectly. View auction here Seiko “Pogue” 6139-6002 Automatic Chronograph And here we have a true classic, a vintage Seiko 6139-6002 yellow dial “Pogue” chronograph. Seiko put out a multitude of 6139 variations, but this is definitely the most recognizable with the bright yellow dial, the same as Col. Pogue wore on his journey to Skylab. This example is super clean, and looks to be original to my eye. The dial and hands are clean and devoid of any black funk on the lume, and the “Pep...
![[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Anoma A1](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2024/06/ANOMA_A1_9.jpg)
Worn & Wound
The age of the circular watch has ended. The mid-century divers, chronographs, and Calatravas are out. Ok, not really, but it looks like shaped, asymmetric, and sculptural watches are the next coming trend. Kicking this new era off have been a few releases ranging from the high-end and exclusive by Berneron to the mid-tier and provocative by Toledano + Chan to the relatively accessible yet exotic Anoma, whose first watch I’ve had the chance to spend some time with. On June 6th, 2024, Anoma Watches launched the A1, an asymmetrical, triangular-shaped watch with an appealing, soft look. Like a weathered pebble of polished steel, the A1 mixes a sense of mid-century watch and industrial design with a modern sensibility, preventing it from feeling like a pastiche recreation. Well-sized at around 38mm and with a vibrant blue dial with a green tint, it’s a memorable launch from a new brand. In the video below, I discuss the brand, the context of the A1’s launch, the design, and what it’s like to wear it. As this is the only shaped watch I’ve ever worn for any period, it was an interesting experience. At first, it was a bit jarring, perhaps, but its quirky charm won me over. With collectors, new and old, having more choices and easier access to watches than ever, brands need to offer something that will stand out yet not be just a novelty. With the A1, Anoma has achieved this, at least in my opinion. Priced at £1,300, or about $1,650 USD, the Anoma A1 is available for pr...
Fratello
The Frederique Constant Highlife Chronograph debuted about two years ago. To set it on the right track, the watch came in black and blue panda versions in stainless steel. Now the Dutch-led brand of Swiss-made watches is introducing two new versions. One is a limited edition of 1,888 pieces in stainless steel with an opaline […] Visit Hands-On With Two New Versions Of Frederique Constant’s Highlife Chronograph to read the full article.
Fratello
Another Friday, another Top 5! Last week, we highlighted some of the best recent Audemars Piguet releases. This week, we do not focus on a brand but on a style of watch. It’s a style that Audemars Piguet is no stranger to, by the way. We have recently seen quite a few impressive perpetual calendar […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Current Perpetual Calendar Watches - A Selection At Different Price Points to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Garrick has officially unveiled the S3 MK2, the current top of the brand’s range, representing all that the British indie is capable of. Garrick is one of the most ambitious brands in the independent space, and like other brands that operate fully on their own terms, they have a way of doing things that looks and feels unfamiliar if you’re accustomed to more common mass produced watches. Literally every Garrick watch is effectively a unique piece, customized to each client’s specifications, and thus each watch is an opportunity for the brand to learn, adapt, and refine their approach. With the S3 MK2, Garrick has tweaked the finishing of their proprietary caliber, offering a heightened experience for those who commission one. If you follow Garrick on Instagram, you might remember that this project was initially announced in 2023, but is just now seeing the light of the day (naturally, all allocations for the remainder of the year have sold out). The S3 MK2 acts as a showcase for Garrick’s accomplishments in traditional hand finishing. The UT-GO4 is visible underneath the highly skeletonized dial, offering many opportunities for Garrick to flex their finishing prowess. Wheels, pinions, and bridges have been finished to a significantly higher spec than on the first S3 for a more coherent and luxurious look. The wheels, for instance, are grained rather than polished or frosted, which implies a greater degree of handwork. According to Garrick, other components were r...
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! A special note this week: this is the 100th edition of eBay Finds! Congratulations to Christoph on hitting the century mark, and thanks to all of you for following along with us as we scour eBay for the coolest vintage watches. Vintage Bulova This vintage Bulova is more than meets the eye! The smaller 31mm steel case looks unpolished, and the fancy curved lugs and scalloped bezel look fantastic and ooze style. The white dial has a deep radial groove pattern that is really nice, plus the small applied steel arrow markers match the dagger hands. But the real gem is the hi-grade Bulova 10BPAC 23 jewel automatic movement. It is adjusted for heat, cold and isochronism in three positions. This is something you would see in a Chronometre grade movement. And even though these were not submitted for that certification, they were nevertheless highly adjusted, superb movements. Great looking piece with a beautiful movement! View auction here Vintage Rado Silver Stag Here’s a beauty with loads of personality. This vintage Rado Silver Stag not only has a killer name, it has killer style as well. The square case (and integrated bracelet) has a nice brushed finish, with clipped corners and a b...
Worn & Wound
Officine Panerai was the brand that launched the “large watch” craze that began in the early 1990s, long before Sylvester Stallone got involved and before anyone else started making oversized watches. Prior to them, 38mm was considered jumbo, and then suddenly, 44mm was the new normal and everyone else was playing catch-up. Since then, watch sizes have come down. However, Panerai is still doing their thing, and they may have outdone themselves with their latest offering, the Submersible Elux LAB-ID, the world’s first fully mechanical watch with electrical luminescence. Yes, you read that correctly and no, there are no batteries. This is not your father’s push-button background illumination. This technology took 8 years to develop, and several patents are pending. The watch houses 6 barrels, 4 of which power the lighting system through microgenerators that convert mechanical energy into electricity, and 2 that are dedicated to time indication. The P.9010/EL caliber is 31mm in diameter and 10.80mm thick, has 55 jewels and a power-reserve of 3 days (roughly 72hrs), plus 30 minutes of on demand lighting. Not to be bested by the inner workings, the 49mm case is made of Panerai’s proprietary Ti-Ceramitech, crafted from ceramized titanium. It took 7 years of research and development and they have filed a patent for their titanium ceramization process through Plasma Electrolytic Oxidation to achieve a very distinctive blue hue. This process transforms the titanium alloy ...
Worn & Wound
So far 2024 is a year where brands have been belting out bombastic bangers of watches one after another. So, when a different take on a beloved complication is dropped, we naturally crane our necks to peek at what’s new. The first Swiss chronograph in New Zealand based Beaufort’s lineup highlights the old school idea of a doctor/medic’s watch with a pulsometer as the primary complication. It takes this complication and sets it inside a case and dial that are elegant, yet industrial, but some of the changes made to the chronograph functionality caused me to ask some questions. The Beaufort Pulsatimer, upon quick inspection, might look like your average chrono, but the longer you linger over its construction, the more you’ll start to notice its unique styling. The case is almost totally brushed, with the exception of thinly polished chamfered edges and a polished inner bezel ring. The polished ring steps up from a brushed base bezel ring like the watch is laying its own foundation. And rising once more from the step bezel is a significantly raised box sapphire crystal. All this architecture pulls your eye into a dial that dramatically drops from the crystal with the sloped pulsometer chapter ring. Then we find a beautiful, vertically brushed copper-colored dial that Beaufort calls “Salmon.” They also have an all black, DLC coated version, a reverse panda black and silver dial, and an all silver dial version of the Pulsatimer. The architectural nuances of the ca...
SJX Watches
Seiko’s Presage Craftsmanship Series is all about dials finished with traditional artisanal techniques from urushi lacquer to enamel matched with affordable price tags. That continues with the Presage Craftsmanship Arita Porcelain Dial SPB445, a time-only watch with a 24-hour indicator. Initial thoughts The Presage Craftsmanship models in general are easy to like because they have classic styling, affordable prices, and unusually fancy dials for the price point. The SPB445 is exactly that, but visibly improved over earlier generations of the model. The dial is a little bit more elaborate with a recessed sector that delineates the chapter ring for the hours, while the case has been reworked to be more refined in terms of style. It’s still a fairly thick watch relative to the design at 12.5 mm high, but the new case helps with that. The only thing I would change is the 24-hour indicator, which isn’t really useful and interrupts the clean layout of the dial. At US$1,900, the new Presage is priced almost identically to the equivalent model from four years ago – despite the upgrades – and remains a good value proposition. An affordable artisanal watch The dial in the SPB445 is a bright, nearly-pure white porcelain with a clear glaze layer on top that is known as hakuji. Seiko once again turned to Shingama Kiln, a porcelain maker established in 1830 that’s still run by the founding family. Located in Arita, a town on Kyushu historically known for its fine porcelain,...
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