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Results for Above the Date Window

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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Is Trapped Between Status (Rolex) And Prestige (Patek Philippe) Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Mar 11, 2026

Jaeger-LeCoultre Is Trapped Between Status (Rolex) And Prestige (Patek Philippe)

Perhaps “caught between a rock and a hard place” is a bit of an exaggeration, but it seems that Jaeger-LeCoultre is trapped between status and prestige. A Rolex on the wrist is a status symbol, and a Patek Philippe is the prestigious choice. But what does a JLC on the wrist say about its owner? […] Visit Jaeger-LeCoultre Is Trapped Between Status (Rolex) And Prestige (Patek Philippe) to read the full article.

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Kurono Tokyo’s First Dive Watch is Also a Dress Watch Worn & Wound
Kurono Tokyo s First Dive Watch Mar 10, 2026

Kurono Tokyo’s First Dive Watch is Also a Dress Watch

If you forced me to place a bet, perhaps on a platform like Kalshi, on what the latest release from Kurono Tokyo would be, there’s probably no way I’d put even a nickel of my own money on a dive watch. And if you told me that the dive watch in question would be of a unique modular design, I’d probably just be even more confused. That’s basically how I felt when I first saw the news of the new “Kurono Diver’s” watch from Kurono, which is basically two watches in one, and represents a hard left turn for a brand that we thought we had figured out. I feel like I talk a lot about how nice it is to be surprised in this industry, and this is a great example of a watch that I don’t think anyone saw coming and gives us all a chance to contemplate something a little different. Before we get into the Diver’s though (the name of the watch is stylized somewhat confusingly with the possessive apostrophe ‘s’), it’s worth setting the proper context for Kurono Tokyo, because this watch upends a lot of the expectations collectors probably have for the brand. The first thing to understand is that Kurono is the brainchild of watchmaker Hajime Asaoka, widely recognized as one of the great independent watchmakers in the world. His Kurono line has become popular over the last few years as it gives enthusiasts who might not be inclined to pay well into the five figures for an Asaoka branded watch a chance to get a lot of his aesthetic in an affordable package. It’s a dif...

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Fratello On Air: When A Cult Brand You Enjoy Goes Mainstream Fratello
Mar 10, 2026

Fratello On Air: When A Cult Brand You Enjoy Goes Mainstream

Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! We’re back (sort of) after more travels, and this week, we discuss the fallout that happens once a formerly unloved brand becomes popular. Call it sour grapes or wanting to keep something to oneself, but feel free to listen to our thoughts on the subject. Enjoy […] Visit Fratello On Air: When A Cult Brand You Enjoy Goes Mainstream to read the full article.

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Ming Watch Brand Review: Independent Watchmaking With A Decentralized Teddy Baldassarre
Ming Mar 9, 2026

Ming Watch Brand Review: Independent Watchmaking With A Decentralized

When it comes to luxury watches, rarely is a timepiece experienced on the wrist before it is admired through a lens. Horological photography has evolved so much that high-resolution imagery and macro-cinematography have become a virtual loupe, portraying the watch’s qualities and character through focus stacking and special lighting. For brands like MING, the photograph is the primary medium of truth, since the founder of the company is a world-class photographer. Ming Thein spent years dissecting the world’s finest timepieces through the lens of a camera. Before long, he became one of the industry’s most respected photographers, forming an obsession with light and how it behaves on the surface of a watch. Since building his own brand, Ming Thein has continued to nurture this special relationship between timekeeping and imagery, so much so that it has become part of the brand’s unique story. Every curve of a flared lug or inverted lume track on a dial is designed to catch, bend, and manipulate light – a philosophy that has translated into a string of global successes, including the "revelation" of the 17.06 Copper and the 2024 GPHG-winning 37.09 Bluefin. [toc-section heading="The Brainstorm That Gave MING Its Lift-Off"] Early concept sketch Plenty of business ideas have probably been dreamt up while racking up air miles, but the origins of MING were perhaps among the most unexpected. During a return flight from a 2014 watch fair, cruising 30,000 feet above the gr...

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Finding My Seiko UFO 6138: A Collector’s Lesson In Humility, Patience, And Rediscovery Fratello
Seiko UFO 6138 Mar 9, 2026

Finding My Seiko UFO 6138: A Collector’s Lesson In Humility, Patience, And Rediscovery

Vintage Seiko chronographs have a way of pulling you in. They’re mechanically ambitious, unapologetically ’70s, and just rough enough around the edges to feel honest. Spend enough time around references powered by the 6138 and 6139 calibers, and you’ll understand why so many collectors fall hard for them. My journey started in 2019 while stationed […] Visit Finding My Seiko UFO 6138: A Collector’s Lesson In Humility, Patience, And Rediscovery to read the full article.

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Hands-On: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Mar 9, 2026

Hands-On: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked

The Audemars Piguet (AP) Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked 39 mm is an appealing new variant of a watch that’s already in short supply, famous as much for its scarcity as its octagonal bezel. Seen previously in white gold, the Jumbo Openworked returns at the top of its class with a case made from lightweight titanium and palladium bulk metallic glass (BMG), a material that gives the bezel its almost ethereal mirror finish. The Jumbo Openworked is not a limited edition, but its undeniable appeal will make it hard to come by, even by Royal Oak standards. Ideal configuration The Royal Oak is one of the most sought-after watches in the industry, and one of the few collections that consistently trades at a premium to retail, according to WatchCharts. With its iconic Genta design, slim form factor, and high-end calibre, it’s easy to see why. That said, some configurations are more appealing than others, and this titanium and palladium version of the Jumbo Openworked ranks highly in the Royal Oak pantheon. It’s worth exploring why it works. Starting with the sizing. In 1972, the Royal Oak was broad and flat by industry standards, but the “Jumbo” moniker now feels misleading for a 39 mm watch. Ironically, the “Extra-Thin” designation also feels misleading for the opposite reason - 8.1 mm is plenty thin, but there are now so many thinner watches that the terminology feels out of date. Setting aside AP’s historical naming conventions, the Jumbo Openworked...

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Is Panerai’s Purest Radiomir Its Most Versatile Modern Watch? Fratello
Panerai s Purest Radiomir Mar 8, 2026

Is Panerai’s Purest Radiomir Its Most Versatile Modern Watch?

When I first picked up the Panerai Radiomir Quaranta PAM01572, I wasn’t quite sure what to expect. I’ve tried on a few Panerai watches over the years, most of them big, bold, uncompromising instruments that seem to occupy their own postcode on the wrist. This one was different the moment I lifted it from the […] Visit Is Panerai’s Purest Radiomir Its Most Versatile Modern Watch? to read the full article.

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Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Ranger (39mm) Vs. Longines Spirit Pilot Fratello
Christopher Ward C65 Dune Mar 8, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Ranger (39mm) Vs. Longines Spirit Pilot

Good morning, and welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown. Last year, Tudor added a new 36mm size and a beige-dial option to its entry-level Ranger lineup. In November, we put it up against the Christopher Ward C65 Dune, and the Tudor won by quite a big margin. You could say it was an unfair match, […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Ranger (39mm) Vs. Longines Spirit Pilot to read the full article.

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Should Serviceability Be A Factor When Buying A Watch? Fratello
Oris m among watch lovers Mar 7, 2026

Should Serviceability Be A Factor When Buying A Watch?

There’s an aphorism among watch lovers that the right mechanical watch never truly belongs to you; rather, it is something you just look after for the next generation. But beneath the romantic surface of that line, there’s a cold, hard truth: durability is only half the equation. The other half, which determines whether a watch […] Visit Should Serviceability Be A Factor When Buying A Watch? to read the full article.

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26 Marvelous Moonphase Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Mar 6, 2026

26 Marvelous Moonphase Watches

The tracking and recording of time has always been inextricably linked with the mysterious motions of the heavenly bodies, primarily that of the sun around which Earth revolves and of the moon, Earth’s own satellite, whose monthly trek around our planet has inspired astronomers, poets, navigators, and yes, watchmakers to explore and understand its unique place in our cosmos. Watchmakers over the years have expressed their fascination with Luna, both its romantic and scientific aspects, in some of their most creative and innovative timepieces. Here are 26 of our favorite and best moonphase watches available now that we think shine particularly bright. [toc-section heading="A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Moon Phase"] Price: On Request, Case size: 38.5mm, Thickness: 10.2mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 30 meters, Movement: Manually Wound L121.3 The iconic Lange 1, unveiled in 1994 as the flagship of the revived A. Lange & Söhne brand, has been the wellspring of numerous creative variations and additional complications, among them this elegantly appointed model that marries an ultra-precise moon-phase display with an ingenious day-night indicator. The former’s gold moon waxes and wanes over a star-dappled blue disk and tracks the actual lunar cycle with near pinpoint accuracy, requiring adjustment just once every 122.6 years. The watch’s 38.5-mm case houses the German watchmaker’s manufacture Caliber L.121.3, whose luxurious, traditional Saxon deco...

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De Rijke & Co. and Guy Allen Just Dropped Another Limited Edition Collab Worn & Wound
Reservoir s Mar 6, 2026

De Rijke & Co. and Guy Allen Just Dropped Another Limited Edition Collab

Once again, here I am late to the party as our own Zach Kazan blows my mind with another brand specializing in artistic dials featuring my favorite métiers d’art craft: enameling. You may recall when he first covered the partnership between De Rijke & Co. and the illustrator Guy Allen two years ago. Now the duo is back with another trio of driver’s watches spanning on the previous Amalfi theme, this time with a stronger focus on the automotive angle. While the Dutch watchmaker and the British artist have been teaming up for nearly a decade, the pair took their work to the next level in 2024 by collaborating on their first set of watches, establishing the Amalfi special editions. The initial set of three watches focused on the themes of air, land, and sea with distinct designs and color palettes reflecting each element. Thanks to champlevé enamel, the illustrations come to life with texture and depth. For the uninitiated, the specific technique of champlevé enamel (French for “raised field”) is similar to cloisonné. However, instead of raised sections to hold enamel, reservoirs to hold the material are created by carving directly into the metal base. The newest trio builds on these designs, but now takes the automotive theme more literally on both the enamel dial and the engraved caseback. The names of the models draw from three regions, the Amazon, Sahara, and Turini, and each gets a corresponding vehicle you might drive there. For the Amazon, you get the Landr...

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Craft at Scale: Audemars Piguet’s Industrial Strategy SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet s Industrial Strategy Audemars Mar 6, 2026

Craft at Scale: Audemars Piguet’s Industrial Strategy

Audemars Piguet (AP) is a storied name in haute horlogerie, and has long been the public face of the Vallée de Joux, the cradle of high complications in Switzerland. It’s also the only brand in the so-called ‘holy trinity’ to employ a Chief Industrial Officer (CIO). We sat down with Lucas Raggi to understand his role in shaping AP’s industrial strategy. The historical home of Audemars Piguet. Image – Audemars Piguet The context Having closed the chapter on the brand’s first 150 years, AP is flying high. According to Vontobel estimates, the brand generated more than CHF2.4 billion in 2025, making it the third-largest brand by revenue after mass market masters Rolex and Cartier. The brand is estimated to have produced more than 50,000 watches in 2025, up from 30,000 just a few years ago. The ribbon-cutting ceremony at the opening of AP’s new Arc Manufacture in Le Brassus. Image – Audemars Piguet The new Arc Manufacture, which just came online, might raise the ceiling further. In a 2022 interview then-chief executive François-Henry Bennahmias suggested AP would be capable of making up to 65,000 watches annually by 2027. These numbers represent extraordinary growth for a century-old family owned brand that makes complicated watches. So how does a brand like AP (nearly) double its output in less than a generation without sacrificing small-scale craftsmanship? In short, thoughtful industrialisation. The recently opened Arc Manufacture in Le Brassus. Image – A...

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Introducing – Kurono Tokyo Launches its First Diver, a Two-in-One Watch with Sealed Outer Case Monochrome
Kurono Tokyo Launches Mar 5, 2026

Introducing – Kurono Tokyo Launches its First Diver, a Two-in-One Watch with Sealed Outer Case

When you think about Kurono Tokyo, the side-brand of Japanese independent watchmaker Hajime Asaoka, you should picture something compact and elegant in your mind. Watches often focus on traditional crafts, with restrained cases and classically Japanese. The sportiest models the brand has ever created were mid-century-styled chronographs. Well, this is about to change as Hajime […]

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Introducing – Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic 36mm Alta Rosa Monochrome
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic 36mm Mar 5, 2026

Introducing – Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic 36mm Alta Rosa

Parmigiani Fleurier’s luxury sports watch collection, the Tonda PF, was introduced in 2021. A refined, minimalist interpretation of the luxury sports watch, the Tonda PF collection is home to several complications. Originally available in 40 and 42mm case sizes, the brand responded to requests for more compact, unisex case sizes and, in 2022, introduced a […]

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Introducing – Lebois & Co Heritage Sector Chronograph Aventurine Monochrome
Mar 5, 2026

Introducing – Lebois & Co Heritage Sector Chronograph Aventurine

Indie brand Lebois & Co expands its Heritage collection with the Heritage Sector Chronograph Aventurine, a new version of the brand’s vintage-inspired chronograph distinguished by a textured aventurine dial and a revised sector-style layout. The watch also debuts a better naming structure within the brand’s catalogue, with “Heritage Sector” becoming the designation for Lebois & […]

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Hanhart Introduces a Pair of Desert Inspired Limited Edition Chronos Worn & Wound
Mar 4, 2026

Hanhart Introduces a Pair of Desert Inspired Limited Edition Chronos

Despite frequently being (in my opinion, falsely) labeled as a boring, neutral color, beige has been making a splash across the watch world recently. When paired with the right auxiliary colors, beige can appear adventurous, rugged, and even classy, in the right circumstances. Perhaps I’m biased, as my 1983 Volvo 240 DL sports a handsome Rose Beige exterior, but it really is one of the most versatile colors, especially when paired with the right contrasting shades. One of beige’s best applications is in vintage-inspired timepieces, and Hanhart has jumped on the retro field watch trend with their latest, the 417 TI Desert Pilot Limited Edition, available in 39 and 42mm case sizes.  Hanhart has long been known for their military-style sport watches, and across the German brand’s 144-year history, they’ve had no shortage of classically-styled pilot watch variants. The 417 TI Desert Pilot combines sharp legibility thanks to black details on the beige dial, with robust functionality and case construction. Both sizes sport a Grade 5 titanium case with a matte finish, giving the watch a rugged, utilitarian look; this is furthered by the crown at 3 o’clock, flanked by two pushers that control the dual chronographs on the dial, positioned at 3 and 9 respectively. The hand-wound, Sellita-based AMT 5100 caliber movement is responsible for the flyback column-wheel chronograph functionality, and is visible through an exhibition caseback, which feels unusual but not unwelcome...

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Rolex: “Sorry, Sir, We Don’t Serve Pepsi Here Anymore” Fratello
Rolex Sorry Sir We Don’t Mar 4, 2026

Rolex: “Sorry, Sir, We Don’t Serve Pepsi Here Anymore”

“Sorry, sir, we don’t serve Pepsi here anymore.” I have heard this before. Last time, I was presented with a disgusting hipster alternative, locally sourced and seemingly made of organic wastewater from small-batch sewage systems housing free-range rats. That’s what it tasted like to me, anyway. “Come on, no Pepsi or Coke?” We need at […] Visit Rolex: “Sorry, Sir, We Don’t Serve Pepsi Here Anymore” to read the full article.

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Credor Eichi II Review: High-End Minimalist Elegance from Japan Teddy Baldassarre
Credor Mar 3, 2026

Credor Eichi II Review: High-End Minimalist Elegance from Japan

You’ve heard of Seiko. By now, you’ve heard of Grand Seiko. But Credor, for many enthusiasts outside of Japan, remains mostly a mystery, despite its connection to both. But for those who are aware of Credor, it represents a Holy Grail of high-horological craftsmanship worthy of its venerated designation as “Japan’s Patek Philippe,” and perhaps no single timepiece represents its signature balance of technical complexity and sublime simplicity of design than the Credor Eichi II. [toc-section heading="Credor History"]  The legend of Credor began in 1974, when it was launched as a luxury offshoot of parent brand Seiko, initially to produce exclusively precious-metal watches. The name, which became official in the 1980s,  is a Japanified version of the French phrase "Crêt D'or," which translates as “pinnacle of gold.” This lofty claim is visualized in the now-iconic triple-peaked logo capped by three stars. Throughout the ‘90s, Credor watches (like Grand Seiko watches, before that sub-brand’s emergence as a separate, independent brand in 2017), were co-branded, with both the Credor and Seiko logos on their dials. Also like Grand Seiko (the first of which was made way back in 1960), Credor products were sold only exclusively in Japan. In the early 2000s, well ahead of Grand Seiko’s more famous coming-out party, Credor became a standalone brand, hosting all of the Japanese watchmaking giant’s forays into haute horlogerie as well as some very impressive hi...

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