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Results for Above the Date Window

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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.
Long-Term Review: Omega Speedmaster Professional 310.30.42.50.01.001 Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Professional 310.30.42.50.01.001 Mar 3, 2026

Long-Term Review: Omega Speedmaster Professional 310.30.42.50.01.001

The current Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch 310.30.42.50.01.001 debuted on January 8th, 2021. The Moonwatch received a ton of updates, making many Speedmaster enthusiasts very happy. Those who weren’t hardcore fans, though, mainly found the big price increase from just south of €5,000 to €6,100 surprising. Updates to the modern Moonwatch You can read a full […] Visit Long-Term Review: Omega Speedmaster Professional 310.30.42.50.01.001 to read the full article.

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Complicated Collectors: Dr Eugen Gschwind SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Gschwind liked Daniels He Mar 3, 2026

Complicated Collectors: Dr Eugen Gschwind

The dinner in Basel had reached the stage where the porcelain was being cleared, but the tension at the table remained heavier than the silverware. Dr Eugen Gschwind, a man who wore his erudition as comfortably as his tailored suits, watched his guest with the predator’s patience that had defined his four decades of collecting. Across from him sat George Daniels, the English horologist and watchmaker who had single-handedly dragged the concept of the handmade watch out of the grave of history. Daniels was brilliant, notoriously opinionated, and, according to some, firmly convinced that he was the spiritual reincarnation of Abraham-Louis Breguet. François-Paul Journe´s 3/84 pocketwatch, Dr Gscwind´s first commission. Image SJX composite – F.P. Journe Gschwind liked Daniels. He championed the Englishman’s genius, yet remained too dogmatic to ever buy his work. He had famously toasted Daniels at a society dinner as the ‘greatest living watchmaker,’ only to follow it with the dry, smiling addendum: ‘But only the second-best watchmaker who ever lived.’ Tonight, however, was not about jests. It was the culmination of a long-simmering technical argument. For years, Gschwind had chided Daniels about his reliance on the 15-second remontoir d’égalité. To Daniels, this mechanism, which rewound a secondary spring every quarter-minute to smooth out the torque of the mainspring, was the ultimate solution to the problem of isochronism. Gschwind viewed it was a compro...

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Ruby Resonance from Armin Strom SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Mar 2, 2026

Ruby Resonance from Armin Strom

Independent watchmaker Armin Strom has upgraded its flagship complication with a precious stone dial. The Mirrored Force Resonance Ruby is a five-piece limited edition with a dial cut from natural ruby. Initial thoughts Armin Strom is arguably the second-most prominent watchmaker (after F.P. Journe) to successfully bring “resonance” watches to market. We extensively covered the subject of coupled oscillator watches recently, which examines Armin Strom’s unique approach to achieving this mysterious effect.  Within this narrow niche, Armin Strom’s Mirrored Force series is certainly the broadest collection of resonance watches on the market, with multiple movements and many variations exploiting the almost magic coupling between two sprung balances. This new limited edition employs the familiar in-house caliber ARF21, which connects the two hairspring by a long, swivelling blade spring - dubbed the Resonance Clutch Spring. While the movement is certainly well known, this particular iteration of the watch is quite surprising: a thin slice of natural ruby serves as the dial, with all the imperfections and liveliness of a natural mineral.  Using a ruby dial is not only aesthetically appealing but poetic for a mechanical watch. The jewels serving as bearings inside every movement are synthetic rubies - a fancy sort of industrial mineral glass. The uneven bright pink and violet shades of the Mirrored Force Resonance Ruby’s dial assure us there is nothing artificial...

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Hands On: Gérald Genta “Geneva” Time-Only SJX Watches
Zenith Elite automatic that’s been Mar 2, 2026

Hands On: Gérald Genta “Geneva” Time-Only

Like its sister brand Daniel Roth, Gérald Genta recently unveiled a model that is entirely new, rather than one based on the brand’s historical designs. The Geneva time-only is a two-hand watch with a minimalist yet distinctive design that manages to capture the spirit of 1980s and 1990s Gérald Genta without being a remake. The cushion-shaped case was debuted last year with a six-figure minute repeater, but now the brand has now applied the design to something more affordable, relatively speaking. Inside is a Zenith Elite automatic that’s been dressed up surprisingly well, above and beyond the usual presentation of the calibre. Initial thoughts The revived Gerald Genta’s debut model, the Oursin, was a reissue of sorts. The Geneva, on the other hand, is a more original creation that’s no doubt inspired by the typical Genta aesthetic, but not a like-for-like remake. It’s a testament to the design that the Geneva could pass for a 1990s Gerald Genta watch even though it is not. The Geneva almost wears like a 1990s watch as well. It’s compact by today’s standards, though these proportions would have been extra-large 30 years ago. Its slimness and narrow lugs give this a formal feel, though the colours are more vivid than usual for a dress watch. The dial is definitely more 21st century than the case, especially with the grained finish, but the gradient colour is evocative of the 1970s and suits the style of the watch. I imagine a great many more colours can be s...

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Hats-Off to Hugo Rittener’s Le Majordome SJX Watches
Mar 2, 2026

Hats-Off to Hugo Rittener’s Le Majordome

The niche market for modern automatons just a little less tiny with Hugo Rittener’s Le Majordome, a mechanical butler that pop ups and greet the onlooker on demand. In the tradition of historical automatons, Le Majordome is entirely mechanical and driven by complex clockwork, and made entirely by hand. Initial thoughts Hugo Rittener is a young automaton maker from the Vaud region of Switzerland. Having cut his teeth working with François Junod, one of the most celebrated talents in the field, Mr Rittener has now gone into business for himself. Against this backdrop, Le Majordome (“the butler” in English) represents a foundational release. Compared to the timepieces we sometimes call mechanical art, this tabletop automaton serves no actual utility; there’s no time-telling and no complication other than the bronze figure itself. In terms of pure mechanical art, this is as artful as it gets. Having taken over 1,000 hours of work, from design to finishing, the (Le) Majordome is a mechanical animation of a bronze-sculpted and gold-plated butler figure, which raises his top hat towards those who actuate the mechanism.   Mr Rittener poetically describes the Majordome as an automate d’accueil - meaning “welcoming automaton”. The mechanical butler does in fact greet its audience, so it could be used as an extravagant welcoming party trick. Hugo Rittener will make 10 pieces of the Majordome in total, over the course of some years. Given the highly artisanal process...

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Sunday Morning Showdown: Favre Leuba Deep Raider Revival Vs. Aquastar Deepstar II Fratello
Favre Leuba Deep Raider Revival Vs Mar 1, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: Favre Leuba Deep Raider Revival Vs. Aquastar Deepstar II

It’s Sunday, which means it’s time for another Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, it’s an epic battle between two retro dive watches. Each is inspired by its respective brand’s 1960s classics. Jorg’s pick is the Favre Leuba Deep Raider Revival, a modern version of the brand’s Deep Blue. Mike’s pick is the Aquastar Deepstar II, […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Favre Leuba Deep Raider Revival Vs. Aquastar Deepstar II to read the full article.

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New: Raymond Weil millesime small seconds with Tuxedo‑style sector dials Deployant
Raymond Weil Feb 28, 2026

New: Raymond Weil millesime small seconds with Tuxedo‑style sector dials

The latest millesime small seconds keeps the core architecture of the line intact while shifting the visual emphasis toward stronger contrast and more deliberate layering. The case, proportions, and RW4251 movement remain unchanged, which gives the new references a familiar baseline. The update comes through the Tuxedo‑inspired dial treatment and the way each colorway organizes light and dark zones.

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eBay Finds: A Vintage Speedmaster MK II, a Grand Seiko in Pristine Condition, and a Funky LED Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Feb 27, 2026

eBay Finds: A Vintage Speedmaster MK II, a Grand Seiko in Pristine Condition, and a Funky LED

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Bulova Ardsley We start off this week with a sweet little vintage Bulova dress watch from 1953. The seller doesn’t state the size but it’s going to be in the 25mm range. But while it’s small in stature, it’s mighty in the style department. The yellow rolled gold case has fancy lugs and a thick acrylic crystal that is like a little pyramid, divided into four angled quadrants, which give it a very cool look. The original crown is signed with the Bulova logo. The champagne/silver dial is original and in great condition, featuring stylized Arabic numerals and dot markers along a sub-seconds dial at 6 and sword hands. The case of course shows some wear, but watches of this era seldom don’t . The Bulova manual wind caliber 10BT movement is clean and runs well per the seller. Nice stylish piece that shouldn’t stress the wallet. View auction here  Grand Seiko 5646-7010  And now I won’t keep you waiting any longer for the gem of this week’s finds, which is this spectacular vintage 1972 Grand Seiko 5646-7010. This beauty is the epitome of Seiko’s famous Grammar of Design aesthetic, with broad, flat planes and contrasting highly polished and brushed surfaces with sharp ...

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Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Explorer II Alternatives In 2026 Fratello
Rolex Explorer II Alternatives Feb 27, 2026

Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Explorer II Alternatives In 2026

Another Friday, another list. This week, we follow up on last week’s list of the top five Rolex GMT-Master II alternatives with the best alternatives to the Rolex Explorer II. It’s a logical step since the two models offer much of the same functionality. But they are inherently different watches in terms of presence and […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Explorer II Alternatives In 2026 to read the full article.

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Introducing: Three New Raymond Weil Millesime Small Seconds Watches With Tuxedo Dials Fratello
Audemars Piguet winning Feb 27, 2026

Introducing: Three New Raymond Weil Millesime Small Seconds Watches With Tuxedo Dials

Three years ago, the Raymond Weil Millesime Automatic Small Seconds timepiece won the GPHG 2023 Challenge Watch Prize. That was a bigger surprise to most watch fans than Audemars Piguet winning the Grand Prix for the Code 11.59 Ultra-Complication Universelle RD#4. Since that award-winning watch, many variations have debuted. And truth be told, they all […] Visit Introducing: Three New Raymond Weil Millesime Small Seconds Watches With Tuxedo Dials to read the full article.

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Hands On: Breguet Expérimentale 1 SJX Watches
Breguet Expérimentale 1 Feb 27, 2026

Hands On: Breguet Expérimentale 1

The Expérimentale 1 debuted last year as the capstone to the first quarter-millennium of the house of Breguet. We attended the launch event and shared immediate hands-on impressions, but watches like this don’t come along every day, or even every year, so it’s worth a fresh look now that some time has passed and the dust has settled. On paper, the Expérimentale 1 arguably represents the highest form of the mechanical watch. To understand the technical details of what makes the watch so groundbreaking, this in-depth analysis should be considered required reading. In short, the cal. 7250 housed within introduces the first-ever contactless mechanical escapement that simultaneously achieves two feats that Abraham-Louis Breguet himself toiled to accomplish throughout his entire career, namely, an oil-free escapement and stable amplitude. The Expérimentale 1 delivers both, and more. That said, as a wristwatch the Expérimentale 1 is tantalisingly imperfect owing to its polarising design. In fairness, this arguably says more about the difficultly of communicating technical breakthroughs to a non-technical public than it does about the design process at Breguet. It could also be the result of Breguet learning lessons from its own past. A modern (Marine) chronometer The Expérimentale 1 is most notable for its novel escapement and what it signals about the future direction of the brand, but it’s also worth analysing the updated Marine-style case, which is the most challeng...

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IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium Review Teddy Baldassarre
IWC Feb 26, 2026

IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium Review

In 2017, IWC introduced a proprietary alloy called Ceratanium, or ceramized titanium, a hard, lightweight material that combined the best of ceramic and titanium. Oh, and it happened to look pretty cool as well. The material has been used sparingly in the intervening years, largely appearing across the brand’s sport-watch portfolio, from the Pilot to the Aquatimer collections. This week, Ceratanium is making its first appearance in the Portugieser collection with a new, limited-edition 41mm chronograph featuring a Ceratanium case affixed to a black rubber strap. In an effort to drive the point home, the rest of the watch is fully murdered out making the IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium a decidedly sporty take on this otherwise dressier collection. [toc-section heading="What's New"] The new watch is the Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium, and it turns the classic chronograph layout on its head by rendering every detail in shades of black (insert Henry Ford quote here). The Portugieser is a historic watch with roots that date back to the late 1930s, and its modern aesthetic is largely referential to that history. That underlying design remains intact here, with a large, open dial hosting Arabic numerals at each hour, and a set of leaf hands tracking the time against them. The two subdials are arranged vertically, retaining a symmetric layout that recalls the original time-only references that had subsidiary seconds located at 6 o’clock.  Using Ceratanium (which ha...

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First Look – Raymond Weil Adds a Trio of Tuxedo Dials to its Millesime Small Seconds 39mm Monochrome
Raymond Weil Feb 26, 2026

First Look – Raymond Weil Adds a Trio of Tuxedo Dials to its Millesime Small Seconds 39mm

Some watches feel like they’ve always existed. And yet, the Raymond Weil Millesime Small Seconds 39mm, part of a successful collection launched in 2023, has nothing to do with history. It’s just a design exercise, but one done right. Since its introduction, the collection, which now also includes a more compact 35mm version, a bolder […]

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Raymond Weil’s Well-Dressed Millesime “Tuxedo” SJX Watches
Raymond Weil Feb 26, 2026

Raymond Weil’s Well-Dressed Millesime “Tuxedo”

An eighties icon that is finding fresh footing, Raymond Weil has extended its GPHG-winning dress watch collection with the Millesime Small Seconds 39 mm “Tuxedo”. Available in three appealing colourways, the Millesime features Art Deco-inspired typography that brings a surprising degree of energy to the line-up’s familiar sector-style dial. Initial thoughts Raymond Weil was one of the biggest names in Swiss watchmaking in the 1980s and 1990s. Raymond Weil himself was one of the first entrepreneurs to see a future for mechanical watchmaking amidst the rubble of the quartz crisis, launching his eponymous brand in 1976. While peak production is in the past, the brand seems to have rebounded with a collection of well-received dress watches and savvy limited editions. The new Millesime Small Seconds embodies the carefully considered details that have underpinned the brand’s recent resurgence. It’s not revolutionary by any means, but at just US$2,295 it offers an affordable entry point to the world of Swiss dress watches. Affordability is one thing, but appeal is another. Fortunately the 39 mm Millesime hits many of the right notes in each of the three colourways, including a so-called ‘tuxedo’ configuration in either classic back and white or on-trend burgundy, as well as a dark blue option that might be the dark horse favourite. Art Deco trio All three models have a few key things in common, starting with the stainless steel case. The Millesime measures 39 mm in ...

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Fratello Talks: Is Heritage Overused And Overrated? Fratello
Feb 26, 2026

Fratello Talks: Is Heritage Overused And Overrated?

These days, “heritage” might be the most overused word in watch marketing. Every other press release seems to reference archives, vintage inspiration, or a glorious past. But at what point does heritage become a crutch rather than a strength? In this episode of Fratello Talks, Nacho, Daan, and Thomas unpack the role heritage plays in […] Visit Fratello Talks: Is Heritage Overused And Overrated? to read the full article.

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In-Depth: Orient Star’s Smart Silicon Escape Wheel SJX Watches
Seiko Epson’s massive industrial base Feb 26, 2026

In-Depth: Orient Star’s Smart Silicon Escape Wheel

While silicon mechanical movement components have swept across Switzerland, adoption has been slow within the Japanese watch industry, stymied by Swiss patents and professed concerns over the material’s durability. To this day, it remains the unlikely domain of Orient Star, a small brand with priority access to Seiko Epson’s massive industrial base. This positions Orient Star to capitalise on consumer demand for increasingly long power reserves, without sacrificing performance. Thanks to an ultralight and geometrically efficient escape wheel with a patented design, Orient Star is able to deliver a 70-hour power reserve without resorting the same counter-productive trade-offs to balance energy made by some Swiss peers – here’s how it was done. A silicon wafer of escape wheels. Image – Seiko Epson The quest for longer power reserves Recent consumer demand for longer power reserves has sent the industry’s engineers scrambling for ways to increase the autonomy of existing movement platforms. A movement’s power reserve is dictated by the length of the mainspring, which unwinds at a constant rate. That is why using a chronograph doesn’t cause a watch to run down faster – usually. Of course, you need to find somewhere to fit that extra length of mainspring while maintaining the movement’s dimensions, such as by thinning out the barrel walls, narrowing the inner barrel arbour radius, or, reducing the thickness of the mainspring. However, while decreasing the ma...

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Ceramic Watches: A Brief History and 15 Top Models from Entry-Level to Teddy Baldassarre
Feb 25, 2026

Ceramic Watches: A Brief History and 15 Top Models from Entry-Level to

Ceramic watches not only offer a host of practical attributes, such as lightness, hardness, scratch-resistance and hypoallergenic properties, but also, increasingly, a very intriguing range of color options as watch manufacturers continue to explore the science of ceramics and refine their own ceramic-making processes. In this article we take a brief look at the history and the technology of ceramics in watchmaking and showcase (in ascending order of price) more than a dozen of the best ceramic watches on the market today. [toc-section heading="Defining Ceramics"] First off, it’s worth clarifying what we’re talking about when we refer to “ceramics” in terms of watchmaking (as opposed to, say, pottery). In scientific terms, a ceramic can be succinctly defined as “an inorganic non-metallic solid made up of either metal or non-metal compounds that have been shaped and then hardened by heating to high temperatures.” While the word “ceramic” comes from a Greek word referring to pottery (keramikós), it has come to be associated with other materials including glass, cement, and what are generally called high-tech or “advanced” ceramics, as in the type used in aerospace, automotive, electronic and other industrial applications, including watchmaking. Whereas pottery and its various subtypes - earthenware, stoneware, porcelain, to name the major ones - all use types of clay as their main ingredient, advanced ceramics utilizes a far more wide-ranging and c...

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New York’s Hold on Pizza, Once Considered Unassailable, Is Now Being Questioned – From Australia and Britain Worn & Wound
Feb 25, 2026

New York’s Hold on Pizza, Once Considered Unassailable, Is Now Being Questioned – From Australia and Britain

I’m going to say something quite controversial here, dear Reader, and tell you that I think pizza, in general, is just okay. I’ve had Neapolitan-style in Naples and Chicago-style in Chicago, and even Altoona-style in Altoona (for the unfamiliar, it’s got green peppers and American cheese on it and is disgusting). I’ve just never been especially impressed. With pepperoni or without, deep-dish or thin-crusted, it’s all the same to me. I mean, I like pizza, but I’m not one of those performative yuppies who sit behind their keyboard (okay, I am right now, but that’s because I’m getting paid to be) and tell you about the virtues of this type of tomato and that type of dough and the purity of ingredients and how pineapple on pizza isn’t real pizza and blah, blah, blah. Like I said, it’s not that I don’t like pizza. I just don’t think it’s anything to get worked up about. To me, it’s in the same category as Jacob Elordi or any organized religion: I have no strong opinions either way, I just don’t need to be told why it’s great all the time. Perhaps this is why I was dubious at first glance about the return of two pizza-inspired watches by Studio Underd0g and Time+Tide: the Burnt Pepper0ni and the Classic Cheese. Following the first pair of pizza watches released in 2024, this new iteration builds on that cult following with updated designs that lean into the theme without losing the brand language that has come to define Studio Underd0g. First, the...

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Windup Watch Fair Dallas: Everything You Need to Know Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Christopher Ward’s C63 Sealander Feb 24, 2026

Windup Watch Fair Dallas: Everything You Need to Know

The countdown to Windup Watch Fair Dallas is on, and we’re excited to introduce you to the Lead Sponsors, and their featured watches, that are bringing this event to life. As the premier gathering for watch enthusiasts, collectors, and those new to the hobby, the Windup Watch Fair is the best way to go hands-on with unique watches from around the world. We’re thrilled to return to Dallas for the second year in a row. Here are the critical details: Hickory Street Annex 501 S Second Ave #200, Dallas, TX 75226 Friday, March 13: 12PM – 6PM Saturday, March 14: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, March 15: 12PM – 5PM Free and open to everyone No registration necessary Free parking available This year, we’re thrilled to welcome a fantastic lineup of presenting brands who share our passion for timepieces and support the watch community. The Windup Watch Fair wouldn’t be possible without the generous support of our valued Lead Sponsors, who help make the event a truly special experience: Christopher Ward Christopher Ward’s C63 Sealander Extreme GMT will be on full display in Dallas. Its indexes and hands are sculpted from Globolight® luminous ceramic for high-visibility timekeeping after dark, while GMT functionality is powered by the Sellita SW330-2 movement and protected by an ingenious anti-shock system. A textured matte dial, sandblasted ceramic bezel, and 41mm brushed steel case give the watch a rugged, purposeful look, making it the ultimate go-anywhere companion. It’s avai...

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Zodiac and GiantMouse Collaborate on a Unique Super Sea Wolf and Dive Knife Set Worn & Wound
Zodiac Feb 24, 2026

Zodiac and GiantMouse Collaborate on a Unique Super Sea Wolf and Dive Knife Set

We’ve discussed the connection between watches and knives at length in these pages, and I think at this point it’s pretty clear why the overlap between knife and EDC enthusiasts and watch collectors is so strong. There’s a clear shared interest in well made things between both communities, and a sense that the tools you carry with you and wear matter in a way that’s both practical and sentimental. Given all that, it’s perhaps a little surprising that we don’t see more releases like this collaboration between Zodiac and GiantMouse Knives, which seeks to make that connection explicit rather than simply implied.  The GiantMouse x Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Watch and Dive Knife set consists of, well, a Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Pro Diver and a dive knife created by GiantMouse for this specific release. The origin of the collaboration rests with GiantMouse founder Jim Worth, who connected with the Zodiac team at a Windup Watch Fair event, where the seeds of a collaborative project were planted. If you’ve had a chance to talk to Jim at a Windup event or elsewhere, you know that he’s not just playing a watch guy at our shows – he’s a true enthusiast. He’s particularly interested in vintage dive and sports watches, and a vintage Zodiac in a similar color way provided the inspiration for this release.  We’ll start with the watch. The Super Sea Wolf Pro Diver is a 42mm stainless steel diver with 300 meters of water resistance, and this edition features a black dial,...

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