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Top picks: Six novelties that piqued our interest this year
In today's Top Picks, we look back a the novelties released in 2022, and take note of six of those which piqued our interest.
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Deployant
In today's Top Picks, we look back a the novelties released in 2022, and take note of six of those which piqued our interest.
Revolution
Silas Walton, founder and CEO of A Collected Man, is a market mover and tastemaker who has always had a keen sense for watches that are timeless, very often before most people realise the perennial qualities those watches possess. He was one of the early few that identified the inherent value of Franck Muller chronographs […]
SJX Watches
Launched to mark 50 years since the original was created by the jeweller’s London workshop, the Cartier Pebble was also perfectly timed to ride the wave of interest in vintage Cartier form watches that began during the pandemic. Looking much like the original but with enough tweaks to set it apart as a modern timepiece, the Pebble reissue is the second commemorative reissue after the Tank Cintrée 100th Anniversary from two years ago. With only six large-size Pebbles made by Cartier London in the 1970s, the original Pebble was long a peculiar watch known only to a few Cartier aficionados. The reissue has changed that, but it is a limited edition of only 150 pieces, a small enough number that it will leave some would-be buyers disappointed. Initial thoughts A hair’s larger than the vintage original, the reissue is a smallish watch by modern standards at 36 mm in diameter but feels larger than that due to the form. In fact, 36 mm is probably the largest it can go without changing the shape; any larger and it will resemble a dinner plate. On the wrist it cuts a striking figure and unlike other vintage remakes, the new Pebble might pass for a modern watch thanks to its novel form. Minor adjustment have been made to the design of the reissue that give it a more refined appearance than the original. The Roman numerals, for instance, have tighter lines. The result is a watch that looks thoughtfully designed. Everything about the reissue is executed well, case to dial to cr...
Deployant
With the demise of Watchville, yes, it is being withdrawn as of tomorrow, October 31, 2022, we are now on Watchicity, a new but similar platform.
Deployant
We review the Depancel Serie-A Stradale, a neo-vintage inspired mecha-quartz watch produced by a relatively young French microbrand.
SJX Watches
An exhibition focused on “microbrands”, Spring Sprang Sprung takes place in Singapore from October 28-30, 2022. Happening at XM Studio, a workshop best known for its hand-made comic figurines, the exhibition encompasses 21 watch brands and a leather goods maker. The exhibition was the brainchild of local retailer Red Army Watches (RAW) and Singapore-based micro brand Feynman Timekeepers. Exhibiting brands include Havaan Tuvali, Vario, and Atelier Wen. The flagship wristwatch from Feynman with a hand-made cloisonné enamel dial Dive watches in bronze from Zelos A city state that boasts a high density of high-end watch collectors, Singapore also has a thriving community of enthusiasts who cherish fun and inexpensive timepieces. In fact, several micro brands have emerged from Singapore, such as Feynman and Zelos. The appreciation of micro brands has been developed in large part by RAW, long a proponent of affordable watchmaking. With stores in Singapore, Malaysia, and Brunei, RAW carries a range of micro brands, including several that are showing at Spring Sprang Sprung. It was RAW founder Sugiharto Kusumadi and Yong Keong Lim, the founder of Feymann, who provided the impetus for the exhibition. The Vario Popeye jumping hour The Atelier Wen Perception with a hand-made guilloche dial Spring Sprang Sprung takes place October 28-30 at XM Studios in Singapore. It is open to public daily from 11:00 am-6:00 pm, except for Sunday when it closes at 5:00 pm. Admission is fre...
Time+Tide
Brand collaborations are becoming almost as popular now as vintage dive-watch reissues, so much so that the phenomenon now extends to straps as well as watches. Although it may seem a little ridiculous at first, anything which motivates watch companies to become more creative and branch out from the norms is a great thing in … ContinuedThe post IWC collaborate with Mr Sabotage on special-edition camouflage strap appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
A Briton who has been the Heritage Director at TAG Heuer since March 2021, Nicholas Biebuyck is in charge of the brand’s museum and archives. Like his peers at other brands, Mr Biebuyck’s role goes beyond historical papers and vintage watches. He participates in product development and marketing, while being a brand ambassador, especially in bringing the brand to enthusiasts and collectors. But Mr Biebuyck also experienced a swathe of the watch industry prior to his role at TAG Heuer. He was previously a watch specialist at Bonhams and then Christie’s before joining Blackbird Watch Manual, a specialist magazine based in Hong Kong. Mr Biebuyck, who now lives in Switzerland with his family, also gained an insight into the art of managing clients with earlier stints as a “Genius” in an Apple Store and then marketing private-jet charters in Africa. The hand-finished movement in the one-off Monaco Only Watch 2021, a hint of where TAG Heuer might be headed And so Mr Biebuyck was wearing several hats when he was in Singapore recently during the Formula 1 Grand Prix weekend, when TAG Heuer staged an exhibition dedicated to its history in motorsports. We got the opportunity to quiz him on several topics, including where TAG Heuer is headed and how the brand balances its glamorous motorsports history with its avant-garde innovation. And we also gain his thoughts on the vintage Heuer market, especially after the high watermark of the Heuer thematic auction in 2017. SJX: ...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Introducing the new Seiko Speedtimer references SSC911, SSC913, and SSC915 set to release in November 2022. Full photos, specs, and more.
SJX Watches
Twenty-twenty two has been all about the Pilot’s Watch for IWC, but with a particular focus on materials, including coloured ceramics and titanium. All that materials tech, watchmaking, and military provenance is now on show in Singapore with Monochromatic Top Gun. Taking place from October 22-30, 2022, the exhibition showcases the brand’s aviator’s watches – including rarely-seen watches made for actual military pilots – along with its watchmaking knowhow in a series of classes and talks. The centrepiece of the exhibition is the all-ceramic line of Pilot’s Watches named after the US Navy’s fight jet academy, Top Gun. Historically available only in black, the Top Gun collection has more recently become a platform for IWC to roll out a range of coloured ceramics. Naturally the show includes the year’s new launches, namely the Top Gun chronographs in forest green or white ceramic. Earlier models such as the Miramar with its sand-coloured ceramic case are also on show, along with the quintessential all-black version. Notably, the exhibition also includes 15 military-issue watches, each bearing a unit insignia on the dial, in perhaps its most intriguing section. Rarely seen since they are only available to members of the individual air force and navy units, such watches reflect the fact that the Schaffhausen watchmaker is the sole official supplier of watches to the US Navy and Marine Corps. As a result, IWC has created watches for some 350 squadrons, includin...
Revolution
Wei speaks one-on-one with Rexhep Rexhepi, a panelist from our Legends of Independent Watchmaking Horological Symposium at Geneva Watch Days 2022, to learn about his journey of becoming one of the most celebrated watchmakers in the modern era. It has been 10 years since Rexhep founded AkriviA and in that time he has had to […]
Quill & Pad
GaryG represented Quill & Pad at the 2022 DWW Horology Forum in New York (and he took a few favorite watches with him). Here's his take on the weekend event with lots of photos.
Deployant
We are finally reviewing one of our favourite new releases from Rado in 2022. Cue the magnificient Captain Cook Over-Pole.
Teddy Baldassarre
Some occasions call for a suit, some for jeans, khakis, and t-shirts. Some events demand a dressy watch, others a tough, rugged watch that can take a beating. If the latter style of timepiece is what you're in the market for lately, check out our list of 15 tough, rugged watches (in ascending order of price) that not only boast impressive levels of functionality, reliability, and resistance to extreme depths, temperatures, and shocks, but also look very stylish on the wrist. Citizen Promaster Eco-Drive Diver 200m Price: $280, Case Size: 44mm, Thickness: 11.6mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Crystal: Mineral, Water Resistance: 200m, Movement: Citizen Eco-Drive E168 Citizen unveiled its Promaster line of professional-grade sports watches in 1989 and its Promaster Diver models - equipped with the Japanese brand’s proprietary Eco-Drive technology, which uses light to perpetually charge the movement - have proven to be among the most popular of Citizen’s vast portfolio of timepieces. The 44mm steel case features a 60-click rotating bezel made of aluminum (here in maritime blue) and a screw-down crown positioned at 4 o’clock. The blue dial sports wide hands and large applied hour markers, all generously lumed for underwater visibility, and a date window at 4 o’clock. The prominent minute hand with its orange detailing adds another layer of contrast, and hence legibility, to the dial. The Eco-Drive movement offers six months of power on a full charge and boasts an accuracy of ...
Quill & Pad
Nancy Olson always look forward to the introduction of Montblanc’s annual Writers Edition pen collection, which has honored writers from William Shakespeare to Ernest Hemingway since 1992. In 2022 Montblanc pays homage to the Brothers Grimm.
Time+Tide
There are fans of high-end watches among the world's top guitarists, with stashes that rival their vintage collections of instruments.The post Wrist ‘n Roll: Guitar heroes and their watch collections appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
We are wrapping up an exciting week here in Switzerland, with Geneva Watch Days 2022 coming to an end. Thirty brands brought the heat, giving us plenty to check out all over the city. It is a more casual vibe than what you would find inside the indoor Palexpo maze of Watches & Wonders, instead … ContinuedThe post GWD WIND DOWN: Geneva Watch Days wrap up and some big news… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Sylvain Pinaud entered the independent watchmaking stage in 2019 when he revealed his monopoussoir chronograph that had an unusual dial-side mechanism and a high level of decoration. But he was working on something both more concise and more elaborate all along, the Origine. Launched earlier in 2022, the Origine is a wristwatch that pursues a familiar formula in independent watchmaking – a time-only movement finished extremely well and mostly made by the watchmaker himself, except for the dial and case that are the work of an industry favourite. But Mr Pinaud does it better than most with an original movement construction and gorgeous decoration, though he is clearly still perfecting his brand’s defining aesthetic. NB: The watch pictured is the prototype of the Origine so it is slightly imperfect in terms of cleanliness and detailing. Initial thoughts At first glance, the Origine might seem like one of many time-only rolled out by watchmakers who recently set up their own brands. But it stands apart in several aspects. For one, Mr Pinaud is an experienced watchmaker unlike many nascent independent watchmakers. Now in his forties, he graduated from watchmaking school in 1998 before embarking on a career that took him to Franck Muller as well as Carl F. Bucherer. And then there’s the quality of execution, which is extremely high. Not only is the movement an original construction by Mr Pinaud himself, the decoration is top class. In fact, a major part of the Origine’...
Time+Tide
Geneva Watch Days, a trade show that began as a pandemic special, has now expanded way beyond its initial eight founding brands, with more than 20 exhibiting partners for its 2022 edition. I was happy to see so many independent brands showcased at the event, which will become painfully obvious in my top five picks … ContinuedThe post Borna’s top 5 from Geneva Watch Days appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
For Geneva Watch Week 2022, Jacob & Co released a new Epic X, redesigned for a more stronger and even more sporty look than the original.
Time+Tide
Geneva Watch Days definitely isn’t as grand an affair as Watches & Wonders, however what it doesn’t have in quantity it certainly made up for in quality. Here are my personal top 5 picks from Geneva Watch Days 2022. Bulgari Octo Finissimo Sejima Edition Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo is the perfect platform for high-end collaborations, and … ContinuedThe post Buffy’s top 5 from Geneva Watch Days appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Another newish (est 2017) independent brand Bianchet releases a new version of their only watch - the Tourbillon B1.618 now in Orange Openwork.
Deployant
A new (est 2018) French independent Depancel releases the Serie-A Stradale, a new neo-vintage inspired meca-quartz chronograph.
SJX Watches
Continuing the brand’s well-known intentions to liven up the Calatrava, Patek Philippe unveiled a brand-new take on its quintessential dress watch at Watches & Wonders earlier this year, the Calatrava ref. 5226G-01. The ref. 5226G indicates where the Calatrava line is going – more contemporary design, albeit still informed by vintage models hence the faux vintage lume, which is enhanced with sharper and higher quality detailing. Despite an entry-level watch of sorts (despite a substantial price tag), the ref. 5226G is nonetheless elaborately executed. The hobnail decoration found on last year’s ref. 6119 “Clous de Paris”, for instance, has been repurposed and applied to the case band. The dial gets a pronounced grained finish And the case a clous de Paris decoration Initial thoughts I first encountered the ref. 5226G in larger-than-life format when it appeared on the floor-to-ceiling display on the side of Patek Philippe at Watches & Wonders. The scale of the projection meant the patterned dial and hobnail case were instantly obvious. Though unexpected elements in an entry-level Patek Philippe, they work well together, both on screen and in real life. Patek Philippe at Watches & Wonders 2022 with its oversized digital display. Image – Watches & Wonders When I tried on the watch during the fair, my positive impression was reinforced. Even though the ref. 5226G is a combination of elements not usually put together, it is compelling and appealing in the metal. ...
Hodinkee
This hefty, vintage-inspired platinum watch comes in handy in our watch-related movie of the week.
SJX Watches
Launched earlier this year as a follow-up to the time-only PRX, the PRX Automatic Chronograph is a natural evolution for the line-up. But unlike its little brother, the chronograph is not modelled on a vintage model, making it more creative, though it still retains the same styling as the base model. Being more complicated than the time-and-date version, the PRX Chronograph is expectedly wider and taller – it is rather bulky in fact – but it is surprisingly appealing in the metal. Plus the PRX Chronograph is also affordable and well priced. The PRX Chronograph ticks a lot of boxes, so we test drove the watch for a couple days to see if its appeal endured. Initial thoughts When I put the PRX Chronograph on my wrist, I instantly found it more appealing than most of Tissot’s offerings. In fact, the chronograph is even more appealing than last year’s time-only PRX. That was unexpected because the time-only model seems to do better on paper. The original PRX is smaller, thinner, plus it has a patterned dial, all desirable features in an integrated-bracelet sports watch. But it is perhaps those very features that might seem like shortcomings – the simpler design and large size – that make the chronograph appealing. Many Tissot watches are over-designed, but despite being one of the more complicated watches in the Tissot catalogue, the PRX Chronograph is just right. Any more and it might have been too much. At the same time, it’s exactly the size that gives the chr...
Time+Tide
Provenance is a huge buzzword in the watch world and refers to an object’s origin and record of ownership. The romantic side to timepieces, and a crucial element of what draws collectors to vintage timepieces, are the stories they tell and the lives they have lived. We have seen watches owned by Paul Newman, Marlon … ContinuedThe post A rare pocket watch gifted by Abraham Lincoln after a shipwreck rescue is up for auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
A watch that commemorates the World Athletics Championships 2022 and Seiko's rich chronograph history.
Quill & Pad
The Le Mans Classic is the world’s largest gathering of its kind, hosting 8,500 vintage cars grouped by brand and model from automobile clubs around Europe. Richard Mille returned as main sponsor and official timekeeper of the event for the tenth time running. Here's an eyewitness report.
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Zenith unveils its second Defy Extreme E Special Edition during the Island X Prix in Sardinia. The Island X Prix is raced from July 6-7 and 9-10, 2022.
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