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Two Broke Watch Snobs
Sometimes it’s risky to change a model. Especially when it’s drastic changes. I think the risk pays off in this instance. With that said, there was something that dug at my mind...
SJX Watches
When Zenith first took the covers off the Chronomaster Revival “Shadow” in the middle of last year, my immediate reaction was “That’s a super cool-looking watch.” Unlike its fellow remakes like the A384 and A386, or the more recent A385, the Shadow isn’t a replica of an actual vintage watch Zenith produced in its heyday before the Quartz Crisis. While the Shadow was inspired by a 1970 prototype with a black-coated case that never made it into production, the Shadow is very much a modern design. It imagines what a vintage A384 might have been, had it been released in all-black livery in the 1970s. Compared to Zenith’s recent vintage-inspired watches, most of which are faithful remakes, the Shadow is a breath of fresh air. So when Zenith offered the chance for me to spend a couple of days with the watch, I seized it. The El Primero A384 Revival that’s a faithful remake of the vintage original Initial thoughts I had a visceral reaction when I first strapped on the Shadow: my heart sang, and a smile crept onto my face. I was struck by how different it looked on the wrist; distinct not only from the other El Primero chronographs, but against other offerings at the same price point. In fact, it looked to me more like a Bamford collaboration rather than a standard model. On the wrist, the Shadow stands out in a subtle but striking manner, especially to a watch enthusiast. Anyone who knows Zenith will understand that’s an A384, but different. Reductive desig...
SJX Watches
With 2021 being its 140th anniversary, Seiko is going all out to commemorate the milestone. Getting an early start with the first anniversary edition announced last year, the Japanese watchmaker kicked off the series with a Grand Seiko in rose gold, followed by a revival of the King Seiko. Now it has just announced a trio of Prospex dive watches, made up of a pair of automatics (SLA047 and SPB207), and a solar-powered chronograph (SSC807). Inspired by Iriomote Island – a popular spot for recreational diving – the new Prospex watches feature vibrant, metallic green dials meant to evoke the lush landscape of the island in Okinawa. Initial thoughts The anniversary divers are good value for money, as most Seiko watches are, and also have the bonus of an appealing dial colour. But as is often the case with newer Seiko limited edition models, each of the new divers is merely one of many similar editions, which makes them less special individually. The priciest model is the Prospex Automatic Diver’s SLA047, a Marinemaster 300 m diver based on the Hi-Beat diver of 1968. A top-of-the-line dive watch, the SLA047 is powered by the 8L35, essentially a simpler version of the 9S55 Grand Seiko movement. And like Seiko’s other high-end mechanical watches, it is produced in the Shizukuishi facility, which is also home to the workshop for mechanical Grand Seiko watches. Other highlights include a 300 m water-resistance rating thanks in part to an unusual monocoque case, and a ce...
WatchAdvice
Pros: Get to enjoy the beautiful patina Great value for moneywears great on smaller wrists Cons: Some may not find this to be a daily wearing watchSome may find the power reserve to be too low in today’s standardAt times reading the date can be tricky (through the domed sapphire ) Over All Rating: 8.1 Value for money – 8.5/10Wearability – 8.0/10Design – 8.0/10Build Quality – 8/10 Oris was founded in 1904 and it produced its first pilots watch in 1917. However, this was a pocket watch with an image of a plane that Louis Bleriot flew across the English Channel in 1908 engraved on the case. Few years later in 1938 The BIG CROWN POINTER DATE was born and became a staple in their pilots watch collection. Fast forward 8 decades and Oris introduced a very elegant, vintage, and timeless classic: Oris Big Crown Bronze Pointer Date 80th Anniversary Edition. The Oris Big Crown Pointer Date was introduced to serve a purpose and to a target audience. A watch with oversized crown that pilots could easily operate wearing gloves, large Arabic numerals to read time with a glance and finally a pointer tip which would indicate date. Over the years the watch has undergone refinement in mechanics and materials, but its core design language has remained unchanged. In 2018 the Oris Big Crown Pointer Date was encased in solid Bronze. An alloy which changes over time making this watch unique no matter when you wear it on your wrist. Case: The 80th anniversary edition comes in a solid b...
Time+Tide
It was way back in 1969 that the first-ever gold Omega Speedmaster rolled off the production line, made for one wrist in particular – that of Richard Nixon. The caseback was engraved to read: RICHARD M. NIXON – PRESIDENT OF THE UNITED STATES – “to mark man’s conquest of space with time, through time, on … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: This Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch is as good as (Sedna) gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Fresh off the press at LVMH Watch Week – which like most trade fairs was entirely online – the Hublot Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami All Black is one of the highlights amongst all the new launches. A collaboration with the Japanese contemporary artist known for his anime-inspired “superflat” creations, the Classic Fusion Murakami is a time-only watch with a twist: free-spinning, diamond-set petals that bring Mr Murakami’s “smiling flower” to life. Initial thoughts In photos the Murakami edition seems, at a glance, dull and static, in contrast to Mr Murakami’s signature style. But the watch glitters and spins, and despite not being serious haute horlogerie, it is cool and compelling. When I first heard that Hublot would be collaborating with Mr Murakami, I expected it to be dressed in psychedelic colours, so the muted All Black livery was a surprise. But as it turns out, it was Mr Murakami’s idea. Commenting the launch announcement, he said, “The one thing I did request was to go all black on our first collaboration… because the very first impression I had when I learned about Hublot was its signature black rubber [strap].” Still, the Murakami edition manages to convey the artist’s exuberant style without using colour, but instead relying on motion, texture, and the smiling flower emblem. And the all-black aesthetic makes sense given the diamonds and large size of the watch. The sparkle of the stones contrast well against the brushed bezel and bl...
Deployant
We kick off this Christmas season with a series of articles from our writers on their wish list for 2020. We begin with our correspondent Peter Nievaart.
SJX Watches
Both an engraver and self-taught watchmaker, Artur Akmaev was born in Moscow but has called Los Angeles home since 2017. He specialises in highly decorative, but also affordable, skeleton watches, each a one-off and often customised to the client’s specific requests. And he occasionally works with other watchmakers – Mr Akmaev was responsible for the movement engraving on the Infinity Series made by fellow California watchmaker Joshua Shapiro. Many of Mr Akmaev’s creations are inspired by pop culture – both Batman and The Avengers can be found on the dials of his earlier creations – and his latest wristwatch draws on 1980s video game Battle City, where the player has to destroy enemy tanks on a grid-like arena. Designed by Mr Akmaev’s sister, Dinara, an artist specialising in jewellery design, the Battle City watch is hand-engraved and enamelled, both on the dial as well as the movement. Initial thoughts The versatility of Mr Akmaev’s skill is surprising – he can transform any idea into decoration for a watch. Admittedly, not all have the same appeal. Some look a bit much for a watch dial, but others, like the new Battle City, work surprisingly well. The scale of the decoration of Battle City suits a watch dial perfectly, while its various elements like tanks and brick surface are ideal for engraving and enamelling. In fact, the three-dimensionality of the Battle City dial is surprising, given that the dial has to fit in in the 1.5 mm space between the mov...
Time+Tide
Once again they manage to surprise us, from ironic rectangular horology to a hypnotising collaboration with MB&F;, to this, where Moser enter the ring for the strongly contested Integrated Steel Sports Watch Bracelet contest. Yes, I tried it on – and did not want to take it off – the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Moser Streamliner Centre Seconds dragon breathes pure fire appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Patek Philippe closes off 2020 with the ultimate hold-my-beer watch: the Patek Philippe Ref. 6301P Grande Sonnerie in platinum
SJX Watches
A watchmaker established by Porsche 911 “restomod” specialist Singer Vehicle Design, Singer Reimagined got off the ground with the Track 1, a chronograph with 1970s vibes that’s powered by one of the most ingenious 21st century chronograph movements. Now Singer has just taken the covers off its second model, the Flytrack Prime Edition. Essentially a condensed version of the Track 1 chronograph, the Flytrack is equipped with a constantly-running central seconds hand that can be instantaneously reset and restarted – a flyback in other words – allowing it to measure short elapsed times. Making its debut as a 30-piece “Prime Edition” in titanium, the Flytrack is powered by the AGH 9634 AgenGraphe movement, a simplified version of the full-fledged chronograph movement in the Track 1. The AGH 9634 Initial thoughts A simpler and more affordable version of the Track 1 chronograph, the Flytrack is essentially a highly complicated time-only watch. Though simpler, the Flytrack movement is still made up of 314 parts, about three times a conventional time-only movement. And despite doing away with chronograph mechanism, the movement in the Flytrack is still complex enough to be attractive in its mechanics. The Flytrack’s style and feel is very similar to the Track 1 – the case is identical in size – which means 1970s and speedometer-inspired. It’s an appealing retro look that’s executed well on the Track 1, and nearly as well on the Flytrack, save for one cav...
SJX Watches
A collaboration between Arab Watch Club and Czapek to create a one-off wristwatch that will benefit a good cause has reach fruition. Inlaid with an unusual green mineral, the Place Vendôme “Al Kanz” is decorated with engraved motifs inspired by Middle Eastern culture. Al kanz, or أل كنز, is Arabic for “the treasure”, and the namesake watch will be exhibited in Dubai later this month before being sold at Christie’s online auction in November, with all proceeds going to the Emirates Foundation, a charity established by the government of Abu Dhabi. Initial thoughts One-off watches created for charity auctions make sense, since they benefit both the watchmaker and a worthy cause, which in this case is an organisation focused on youth in the region. The brainchild of Hassan Akhras, founder of Arab Watch Club (AWC), the Al Kanz is a thoughtful collaboration that has resulted in a striking watch. The use of zoisite adds new colour to the watch, with the bright green mineral rings highlighting the architecture of the movement. In fact, the stock version of the Place Vendôme is a bit too plain, while this version is livened up just enough. Although the green and aubergine accents are striking, they are relatively restrained so the overall appearance remains classical and clean. What’s new The highlight of the Al Kanz is definitely the dial. The additional of colour and texture to the sub-dials immediately set it apart from the standard Place Vendôme models ...
SJX Watches
Fifteen years after its debut in the Harry Winston Opus V, Urwerk’s ingenious satellite-cube time display is now in its fifth generation with the just-launched UR-220 ‘Falcon Project’. While the UR-220 resembles its predecessor, the UR-210, a great deal, the new watch has been refined in several substantive ways. Most notably, it is powered by a hand-wind movement, something that’s not been used for the satellite-cube display since the UR-201 from 13 years ago. Initial thoughts A three-dimensional wandering hours, the satellite-cube hour display is one of the most significant innovations in modern-day independent watchmaking. Hours are indicated on three rotating cubes, while a retrograde hand points to the minutes, travelling in sync with the cube for the current hour. The complication has, however, reached a level of maturity. Incredible when it was launched in the Opus V in 2005, the satellite-cube display still remains special, though its impact has been moderated by subsequent inventions by other watchmakers, making it seem less avant-garde. So when I first heard Urwerk was soon to unveil the successor to the UR-210, which was introduced in 2012, I was keen to see the evaluation of the complication. The new UR-220 The UR-220 is unquestionably a better watch – it is slimmer and lighter, as well as face-lifted in terms of design details, and the manual-wind movement is a plus – but it is an incremental evolution over the UR-210, rather than a radical revam...
Deployant
A step up from the run-off the mill skeleton rubber strap chronographs, Zenith wows with its movement as it usually does. That said, while this piece is a stunner, some may find that the watch is more LVMH than it is Zenith. As one who is biased towards a classic Zenith case, the Shadow may be a better option if one is considering a Zenith for his collection.
Time+Tide
The conversation kicked off with a comment by watch collector and dealer Eric Ku in the most recent Watch & Chill episode (skip to the timecode in the description). “I was obsessively watching this show Ballers… with the Rock. In this last season, [he] was wearing the purple Frosted Gold Royal Oak chrono. I distinctly remember him … ContinuedThe post Why big men look “stunning” in small watches, starring the Dwayne ‘The Rock’ Johnson, the ‘King’ Lebron James and Audemars Piguet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Tune in as they cover fit, finishing, brand heritage bang-for-buck, and more. It’s a total Rolex vs. Omega face-off.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
I mean why own one or two Rolexes when you could have several dozen-” His voice trailed off before reaching back in the box, “...Kenneth Cole Reactions.” Read The Balance Cock Bugle for balanced horological news (probably).
SJX Watches
Just months after a one-off Ressence was sold at auction to benefit the medical research department of a Belgian university, the brand has announced another philanthropic wristwatch, this time in association with Art in Time, a watch retailer in Monaco owned by Chopard. A unique piece Type 3MC is remarkably red – the primary colour of the Monegasque flag – elevating the sleek, contemporary style of Ressence to a striking new level. Initial thoughts With part of the proceeds going to the Prince Albert II of Monaco Foundation, a charity dedicated to ecological and social issues, the Type 3MC is a departure from the usually low-key look of the brand, as seen on the recent olive green Type 1 for instance. The red makes the rest of the dial less obvious, but there are other, more subtle colours, including the off-white markings and hands as well as orange and pale blue. Already an extremely impressive watch in design, concept, and execution, the Type 3MC will appeal to anyone who finds the standard versions too plain. And the fact that is a unique piece to benefit a good cause helps in accepting the price, which is steep, not to the the point of being exorbitant, but steep nonetheless. Two in one Colours aside, the Type 3MC has all of the standard Ressence tech, including a dial capsule filled with oil that refracts light, resulting in the optical illusion that of the dial being printed on the underside of the crystal. The oil also serves as a lubricant for the time-dis...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Included in the lot are three pairs at fifty percent off retail for a BuyItNow price of $528 + $75 shipping-a bargain to any enthusiast who’s been coveting a watch strap bearing the website’s stamp. Read The Balance Cock Bugle for balanced horological news (probably).
SJX Watches
Announced shortly before COVID-19 made the news, the US$16 billion deal to take over Tiffany & Co. has been scrapped by LVMH. The French luxury conglomerate, which counts Louis Vuitton, Dior, and Hublot amongst its brands, cited the looming tariffs on French goods announced by the United States. That led to instructions from the French government to delay the deal until January 2021, according to LVMH. Another reason cited by the French group was Tiffany’s request for extension of the closing date for the deal, from November to December. In response, Tiffany filed a lawsuit in the United States, seeking to force LVMH to complete the deal. Regardless of the motives behind the withdrawal, it appears to be a shrewd move by LVMH, which is controlled by Bernard Arnault, the richest man in France and widely regarded to be a hard-nosed dealmaker. In the 10 months since the deal has been announced, the world has changed drastically. The state of the the industry makes it likely that LVMH will be able to find cheaper avenues to cement its position as the world’s biggest luxury group. Tiffany shares fell almost 10% in pre-market trading on the news, while LVMH declined about 0.9% during the trading day in Paris.
SJX Watches
Having relied on external suppliers for its chronograph movements since the very beginning, Richard Mille has just unveiled its first in-house chronograph calibre in the RM 72-01 Lifestyle In-House Chronograph. Ironically, the “Lifestyle” model name doesn’t do justice to the new CRMC1 movement within. Like most high-end chronographs, the CRMC1 has a column wheel as the one-off switch for the stopwatch, but in a novel twist, it has a pair of oscillating pinions to connect the chronograph wheels to the timekeeping gear train. Initial thoughts Richard Mille’s bestselling chronograph is the RM 11, which is powered by a modular calibre made up of a Vaucher base and a Dubois-Depraz module, making it uninteresting from a technical perspective. The new RM 72-01 is the opposite: it’s powered by a new movement that features a patented construction for the chronograph. Though the innovation in the movement is incremental – essentially reinterpreting existing ideas – it is still original. At the same time, the RM 72-01 is a notably compact watch for a sports chronograph, which should leave it sitting low on the wrist. In fact, the wearability of the RM 72-01 should trump the already excellent ergonomics of most Richard Mille watches. And perhaps most surprising is the price. It costs about the same as the RM 11, but boasts a clearly superior, proprietary movement. Even though the RM 72-01 is an extremely expensive watch – the base model costs about US$185,000 – it...
Time+Tide
I swear we didn’t collaborate on it. It was pure and unintended serendipity. The two most popular stories this week on Watchville (an app you should download here if you don’t already have it, if only for the clock to set your watches to!) were titled: ‘How to steal a watch clean off someone’s wrist…’ … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: How to steal a watch, and how Rolex stole the show (with 1mm) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Take a load off (your wrist).
Time+Tide
Streetwear fans rejoice, Swatch and BAPE (A Bathing Ape for those not in the know) are back with another big and bold collection. As far as #details go, this watch comes fully loaded. Taking up where last year’s collaboration left off, this new collection is a colourful collision of styles. BAPE brings the disruptive and … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: BAPE x Swatch 2020, a Big Bold 47mm statement watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi officially opened on July 20, a milestone in its independence as a standalone watch brand. Having been spun off from Seiko in 2017, Grand Seiko now has its own workshop, just beside the Seiko Instruments Incorporated (SII) facility where it was once located. “The Nature of Time” Grand Seiko recruited Kengo Kuma, the noted Japanese architect behind Tokyo’s National Stadium built for the 2020 Olympics and the interior of Grand Seiko’s Paris boutique, for its new workshop. The Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi was conceived to embody the brand’s ideology, “The Nature of Time”, with the structure coexisting with the surrounding landscape, while utilising natural materials. A material “greener” than conventional construction materials, wood is used for the structural elements and flooring of the clean room. “To balance natural materials with the room’s high technology technical requirements was a new and intriguing task,” noted Mr Kuma in the announcement. The result is one that sharply contrasts with the typical production workshop that is clinical-looking. In addition to the natural materials used in its construction, the studio is also operated with sustainability in mind. For instance, carbon dioxide emissions are monitored and minimised, while wastewater is recycled. At the same time, the company is working to preserve biodiversity in its local area, including by erecting and maintaining bird and squirrel houses. Gr...
Time+Tide
Twenty-seven … that’s how many watches Grand Seiko have already unveiled this year. And that’s not really an accurate statement – 27 new watches have been released to the Australian market. If you include limited editions, boutique editions and models from other regions, the number is closer to 40. The wheels may well have fallen off … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGE253, SBGE257 and SBGE255 – 3 GMTs with colour, curves and cutting-edge tech appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Since 1948, Omega have been perfecting their formula for conquering the sea. What began as a splash-proof dress watch, quickly spiralled into a race for innovation amongst Switzerland’s finest as to who could plunge the deepest depths and still tell the time. The Seamaster line is Omega’s crown jewel in technical achievement and design, with … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The Omega Planet Ocean Vs. the Omega Seamaster 300, is there a winner? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Project 248 is the working title for Struthers Watchmakers' first in-house, handcrafted movement. It features a new improved English lever escapement, picking up where the British industry left off in the late nineteenth century. Colin Alexander Smith reports extensively on the project whose first run of five watches has already sold out.
Hodinkee
This one-off Ressence raises money for COVID-19 research.
Hodinkee
Go jump off a dock.
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