Revolution
Rado x Revolution Captain Cook, 2nd Outing
In its second collaboration with Revolution, Rado presents the cool grey Captain Cook in a larger 42mm case.
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Quill & Pad
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic: Enchanting Ultra-Thin In Titanium, Gold, Ceramic And Now In Steel
Ever since the Bulgari Octo Finissimo premiered in 2017 George Cramer has been very attracted to the model, but was also afraid that the case would be too large for his wrist. But in Paris one day, he tried an Octo Finissimo on in the Bulgari boutique and was immediately convinced that it was perfect and also very comfortable. But he then had to decide which version was his favorite.
Time+Tide
“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 17: A gorgeous green Middle Eastern Limited Edition Bell & Ross
This eye-catching special edition, launched at the Dubai Watch Week 2019, features a satin-finished steel case and lush starburst dial inspired by the green in the UAE flag – a colour chosen to inspire hope, growth and prosperity – and four Hindi Arabic numerals painted in Super-LumiNova. This is the first Bell & Ross model … ContinuedThe post “Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 17: A gorgeous green Middle Eastern Limited Edition Bell & Ross appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Van Cleef & Arpels Pierre Arpels: An Intertwined History – Reprise
Many of the great marques in the history of watchmaking were driven by prominent figures who ended up with a watch named after them. Such was the case for both Louis Cartier and Pierre Arpels. Both were born into jewelry and watch dynasties and both made prominent marks on the histories of their respective houses. How else are they intertwined? Martin Green explains here.
Deployant
New: MB&F; Legacy Machine Perpetual Yellow Gold
MB&F; announces a new Legacy Machine Perpetual in 18k yellow gold case with striking blue face. A limited edition of 25 pieces.
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Urwerk UR-100 Gunmetal
Last year Urwerk launched the UR-100 SpaceTime, a watch that installed the brand’s signature wandering hours satellite display in newly designed watch case. Unsurprisingly the UR-100 SpaceTime became a brisk seller, not only because it is the most affordable model in the catalogue, but also because its case is compact and relatively conventional in shape, making it the most wearable Urwerk watch by far. And so Urwerk has followed up with the UR-100 Gunmetal, a new variant that arrives just four months after four months after the model was launched. It feels a little bit too soon for another edition, but the Gunmetal is different enough – and the original versions are almost sold out – that it can be forgiven. Steel in disguise While the case of the new UR-100 remains the same design, the finish is unusual. The material looks like titanium, even up close it resembles titanium, but in the hand it is obviously too heavy to be titanium. The case is actually steel, which has been sandblasted to give it a smooth, matte finish and then coated with a dark grey coating. That’s a bit of a surprise, because watch cases that look like titanium are almost always titanium. But Urwerk’s rationale for using steel is practical: hard-coated steel is more resistant to scratches than titanium, which is generally quite soft. The result is watch that has a strong sci-fi military look, like a piece of kit used by the Marines in Aliens, which is very much Urwerk’s original house styl...
Time+Tide
“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 15: A moon dance with Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Manufacture
The Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Manufacture Fratello Exclusive is produced in a limited run of 29 pieces, and are all individually numbered on the caseback. The 42mm 3 parts-case holds a convex sapphire crystal and clear caseback revealing the inner workings of the FC-712 caliber. The two counters of the moonphase and date are respectively … ContinuedThe post “Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 15: A moon dance with Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Manufacture appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 14: The striking Alpina Manufacture Flyback Chronograph
With its striking appearance, the ‘Full Black’ Alpina 4 Manufacture Flyback Chronograph demonstrates an aggressive and distinctive personality. The model features an intense black PVD-coated case made out of stainless steel. The black dial with beige luminous pearl black applied indexes, matching the luminous beige hands, provides a stealthy, slightly vintage look. Note the ergonomically … ContinuedThe post “Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 14: The striking Alpina Manufacture Flyback Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 7: One of a kind with the Zenith Pilot Rescue ‘Australian Rescue’ Edition
This unique piece, with a custom Australian-themed caseback and unique dial, has been conceived and created from scratch by the brilliant minds driving Zenith’s groundbreaking new era. It combines the slate grey dial of the brand new ‘Rescue’ series of Pilots, with a bronze case to dramatic effect. The blood-red crossed axe motif on the … ContinuedThe post “Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 7: One of a kind with the Zenith Pilot Rescue ‘Australian Rescue’ Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
These were the most significant Zenith watches of 2019
Zenith really wowed the global watch community last year with some truly impressive new releases that encompassed beautiful heritage pieces, new case materials and horological innovations that had everyone talking. We’d like to mention all the models that dropped last year, but, to keep it short and sweet, here were the three most important Zenith … ContinuedThe post These were the most significant Zenith watches of 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Zenith El Primero A384 Revival: Cool Never Changes
Martin Green thinks that the El Primero A384 Revival is a powerful thing on the wrist. With a diameter of 37 mm it is small by today's standards, but compensates well with its cushion-shaped case. Its particular brand of cool makes him want to get a leather jacket and a muscle car. How about you?
Time+Tide
“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 5: A Hublot Classic Fusion, made unique
Another watch conceived from scratch for the ‘Watch & Act!’ Auction, the Classic Fusion ‘Watch & Act!’ Unique Piece features a ceramic case, carbon fibre bezel and a shimmering blue dial. The case back is engraved with the words ‘Unique Piece’. Before we go on, here’s a quick primer on the Classic Fusion line: the … ContinuedThe post “Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 5: A Hublot Classic Fusion, made unique appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon: Precious Metal, Precious Stones, Precious Movement
Bulgari spent two and a half years developing a manual-wind movement that perfectly fits the signature serpent head-shaped case of the Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon, the brand's ladies' flagship. Martin Green feels it was time very well spent and explains why here.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Armillary Tourbillon Black Titanium
The eight years Vacheron Constantin spent on developing the most complicated watch ever – the Reference 57260 pocket watch – spawned not just the timepiece itself, but various complications incorporated within its movement. A handful of its complications have been translated into wristwatch form, including the multi-axis tourbillon, resulting in the Les Cabinotiers Armillary Tourbillon. Originally launched in 2016 in a white gold case, and later iterated with cases in other precious metals, the Armillary Tourbillon recently made its debut with a black-coated titanium case, giving it a radically different look and feel from the earlier versions. The watch is big, lightweight, and mechanical looking, setting it apart from the typical Vacheron Constantin. Though its colours are stealthy, the size of the case and intricacy of the dial mean it is hard to miss. The case is huge – 45 mm in diameter and over 20mm high – and it looks the part on the wrist. Part of the thickness is due to the highly-domed crystal, a necessity because of the relatively thick movement and bi-axial tourbillon. In fact, the tourbillon sits so high that a bubble is integrated into the already-high crystal to accommodate the cage. The pointed tips of the lugs are inspired by the Maltese cross, which is also the logo of Vacheron Constantin But this particular version of the Armillary Tourbillon is satisfyingly light because of the case material. As a result it wears relatively well for a watch ...
Quill & Pad
H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic With Full Metal Bracelet: Inspiring Amnemori!
The Streamliner Flyback Chronograph is about firsts for Moser: its first chronograph complication, its first bracelet, its first cushion-shaped case, a brand-new dial, hands, and a new movement. But what grabbed Joshua Munchow from the start was the bracelet, and that is when the amnemori began. What is that? Joshua explains here in detail.
Deployant
Review: Grand Seiko Elegance SBGK series
Grand Seiko released a 'new' cushion case and modified manual winding movement with the 2019 SBGK series. The SBGK series consisted of 3 limited edition models, and 3 regular production models.
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Zenith Defy 21 Land Rover Edition
The Zenith Defy 21 is unquestionably strong value for money – a 1/100th of a second chronograph starting at just over US$10,000 for the base model in titanium. But most of the iterations of the Defy 21 so far have a highly technical look, combining a skeletonised dial with a large, angular case. Now the Defy 21 design has taken a sharp turn in another another direction: with the help of Land Rover, Zenith has given it a makeover, creating the minimalist and functional Defy 21 Land Rover Edition. While automotive-inspired watches are often over designed, the Defy 21 Land Rover Edition has been redesigned in a simple and effective manner; the watch has been streamlined and pared back, giving it a slightly military look that works. The styling is a nod to the 2020 Land Rover Defender, the most no-nonsense of the British carmaker’s offerings that was launched in late 2019. Clean lines and surfaces To start with the case is micro-blasted titanium – finished with a finer-than-usual frosting that is faintly granular, in contrast to the coarser frosting that is more commonly applied to titanium. The surface is smooth enough that is resembles a coating, but it is natural titanium. The simplicity of the case finish is appealing, because it suits the chunky, angular form of the case. But it is also practical, because it reduces the perceived size of the case, which is large at 44 mm by 14.4 mm. But being titanium, the case is fairly lightweight and wears comfortably, though...
Time+Tide
These were the 3 best Jaquet Droz watches of 2019
As is the case with every other year in recent times, 2019 was a very, very good one for the inimitable Swiss watchmaker Jaquet Droz. Not only did we see the marque, which has been around since 1738, create their first ever Grande Seconde Chronograph, we also saw a great new addition to their Grande … ContinuedThe post These were the 3 best Jaquet Droz watches of 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces the Carrera 160 Years Silver
To mark its 160th anniversary this year, TAG Heuer just unveiled the Carrera 160 Years Silver Limited Edition, a remake of the Carrera 2447S from 1964 that’s a quintessential vintage Heuer. Though simple, the ref. 2447S is still fairly distinctive with a monochromatic colour palette and the recognisable Carrera case with its facetted lugs. The ref. 2447S was characterised by a radially brushed silver dial – the “S” in the model reference denotes a standard, silver dial without a tachymetric scale – that arrived only in 1964, replacing the white dial that was one of the launch colours, alongside black. Limited to 1860 pieces, the Carrera 160 Years Silver remains largely faithful to the original, save for a few tweaks like a larger size, restyled hands and necessary technical upgrades such as water resistance and the movement. While the original was 36 mm, the remake is 39 mm, a more appropriate size for a modern watch, if not exactly ideal for a remake. But it is finished just like the original, being entirely polished. And the case is topped by a domed sapphire crystal, which replicates the look of the acrylic glass on the original. A Carrera ref. 2447D, which shares the same silver dial but includes a decimal scale Besides the case, another obvious difference on the remake are the chronograph registers: the running seconds is now at six o’clock, while it sat at nine on the original. That is a consequence of the in-house movement inside. A more subtle upgrade ...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Zenith Elite Classic
New case sizes and dials for Zenith's classic in-house time and date model.
SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces the Pilot Type 20 Rescue
Inspired by early 20th century aviator’s watches, Zenith’s Pilot Type 20 collection gets new two versions at LVMH Watch Week. Available mostly in heavily retro guises, including in bronze or aged steel, the new pilot watches take a different tack. The Pilot Type 20 Rescue and Type 20 Rescue Chronograph are devoid of retro affectations, and are kept simple with steel cases and dark grey dials. Measuring 45 mm wide, both watches feature a brushed case band with a polished bezel as well as a polished, onion-shaped crown. Instead of the usual grained dials, they have slate-grey, sun ray-brushed dials that are accented with bolts of yellow, giving them a more modern look. As with the rest of the collection, the dials are characterised by cathedral-style hands and large applied Gothic numerals that are moulded from SuperLuminova. Powering the Pilot Type 20 Rescue is the Elite 679, an in-house, workhorse automatic movement with a 50 hour-power reserve, while the Pilot Type 20 Rescue Chronograph is equipped with the El Primero 4069, which is a variant of the El Primero 400 that lacks a date and an hour totaliser. The only element that’s “faux” patina is the distressed calfskin leather strap that was inspired by shearling flight jackets and helmets. Key facts and price Pilot Type 20 Rescue Ref. 03.2434.679/20.I010 Case diameter: 45mm Material: Stainless steel Water resistance: 100m Movement: Elite 679 Functions: Hours, minutes and seconds Frequency: 28,800 beats p...
SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces the Defy 21 Land Rover Edition
Zenith’s collaboration with Land Rover has produced the best-looking Defy 21 to date. Clad in matte grey with a handful of orange accents, the Defy 21 Land Rover Edition is pared back and minimalist compared to the typical Defy chronograph. It’s essentially a more compelling variant of a watch that is already strong value for money. Launched to mark the unveiling of the 2020 Land Rover Defender, the new Defy 21 has a case of micro-blasted titanium. The metal has been sandblasted to create an extremely fine, grained surface finish, giving it a dark grey appearance with a hint of olive green that evokes military equipment. The dial is finished in a similar shade of grey, with most of it reduced to the essentials. Both the hands and hour markers have been slimmed down and minimised, as has the power reserve indicator, which is now a narrow, horizontal window. Most of the usual automotive design elements have been avoided on the Defy 21, with the exception of the rotor, which is shaped like the wheel rim of the new Defender. But it is only visible from the back, and does not take away from the appealing minimalist look of the watch. Mechanically the Land Rover Edition is identical to the standard Defy 21, meaning it has twin oscillators and going trains, one for the timekeeping and the other for the 1/100th of a second chronograph. Key facts and price Defy 21 Land Rover Edition Ref. 97.9000.9004/01.R787 Diameter: 44 mm Height: 14.4 mm Material: Titanium Water resistance...
SJX Watches
Hublot Introduces the Big Bang Integral
Launched in 2005, the Big Bang was the watch that reestablished Hublot as a major watch brand. Fifteen years on, the model gets its most major revamp to date with the launch of the Big Bang Integral. While the basic concept is simple – it’s a Big Bang with an integrated bracelet – the new watch is a substantial upgrade in construction and finishing. The case was redesigned to fit the new bracelet, but also to accommodate a higher level of finishing. The Big Bang Integral King Gold Upgraded inside and out Most of the case edges, and also the pushers, have polished bevelling that contrasts with the brushed finishing on the top surfaces. The alternating surface finish continues onto the bracelet links, which are also facetted in profile. At the same time, the case construction has been improved in substance. Though the new case retains the traditional “sandwich” construction of the Big Bang, the filling of the “sandwich” is no longer resin, but is instead the same material as the front and back plates of the case. The only remaining resin bits are the resin lugs, or “ears”, on each side of the bezel at three and nine o’clock, the fundamental design feature of Hublot that was inspired by a ship’s porthole (hublot is porthole in French). The Big Bang Integral in titanium The All Black The new Big Bang is available in titanium or 18k King Gold as regular production models, and also the 500-piece limited edition Big Bang Integral All Black. Like its namesake...
SJX Watches
Bulgari Introduces the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater in Rose Gold
Previously only available in titanium or carbon composite, Bulgari has now introduced the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater in a precious metal case. While titanium and carbon composite are superior in transmitting sound thanks to their low density – making them ideal for striking watches – the new rose-gold version is irrefutably more striking, no pun intended, combining a starkly industrial design with the sheen of gold. Frosted gold First unveiled in 2016, the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater remains the thinnest minute repeater on the market, with the case measuring just 6.85 mm high. The new gold iteration, however, is a hair thicker at 6.9 mm to ensure case rigidity as gold is softer than titanium. But the gold case retains the same all-matte, sandblasted case finish as the titanium model, creating a surface that is deliciously subdued. The dial is also made of rose gold, with the same perforated indices to better transit the sound from the movement to the case and crystal. Measuring 40 mm wide, the watch is depth rated to 30 m, helped by the use of a pusher at nine o’clock to activate the repeater, which is easier to seal against moisture than a traditional slide. The Genta connection Underneath it is the hand-wound BVL362 that is based on a 2.72mm high movement conceived by Gerald Genta in 1981. The movement was re-engineered by Bulgari, and bulked up slightly to improve structural integrity and reliability. However, at 3.12 mm high, the BVL362 movement is still ...
SJX Watches
Bulgari Introduces the Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon
The flagship launch for Bulgari at LVMH Watch Week is a compact tourbillon for ladies that’s technically interesting because it is powered by a newly-developed form movement. The Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon is a moderately large ladies’ watch, with a case measuring 34 mm in diameter and a slim 8.9 mm high. Because it is a Serpenti – which is Italian for “serpent” – the case is shaped like a snake’s head, giving it an ovoid form that has quite a presence on the wrist. Available in white gold or rose gold, the case is set with diamonds, as is the dial (and there’s also a version in white gold with a matching bracelet, set in diamonds from end to end). Inside is the BVL150, a hand-wound movement constructed specifically for this watch. It’s a small movement, measuring 22 mm at its longest and 3.65 mm high, but still manages to accommodate a tourbillon and a 40-hour power reserve. More notably, the movement is a form movement; its shape traces the case, with the tourbillon taking centre stage at six o’clock. Unusually, the tourbillon looks like a flying tourbillon, but is a conventional tourbillon secured by a bridge. But the bridge is a piece of clear sapphire, with the pivot jewel in its centre, making it almost invisible. Another unconventional feature is the crown, which is positioned just between two and three o’clock – inclined at six degrees from the horizontal according to Bulgari – a necessity due to the compact size of the movement. Key fa...
SJX Watches
Bulgari Introduces the Octo Finissimo Black Sandblast-Polished Ceramic
Unveiled alongside the new variants of the Octo Finissimo in gold or steel, the Octo Finissimo Automatic Black Sandblast-Polished Ceramic is another take on the all-ceramic model launched last year. While last year’s watch had a uniformly matte finish on the case and bracelet, the new ceramic Octo Finissimo has alternating sandblasted and polished surfaces, giving it a little bit more life, with the polished bits catching the light just right. The all-black look is made a little bit more interesting with the varied surface finish, but retains the extreme sleekness of the original ceramic Octo. Like the case, the dial is monochromatic, but made legible, to a degree, with different surface finishes. The dial itself has a matte, frosted surface, while the markings and hands have a glossy finish. The dimensions of the new ceramic Octo remain unchanged from the earlier model, at 40 mm wide and 5.5 mm high. Inside is the BVL138 movement found across the Octo Finissimo Automatic model range. Key facts and price Octo Finissimo Automatic Black Sandblast-Polished Ceramic Ref. 103368 Case diameter: 40 mm Height: 5.5 mm Material: Black ceramic Water resistance: 30 m Movement: BVL138 Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz) Winding: Automatic Power reserve: 60 hours Strap: Black ceramic bracelet Availability: At both retailers and boutiques Price: US$15,600, or 22,000 Singapore dollars For more, visit Bulgari.com.
SJX Watches
Bulgari Introduces the Octo Finissimo Automatic Satin-Polished
Continuing with the sleek and successful Octo Finissimo, Bulgari has just unveiled two new variants of the extra-flat wristwatch at LVMH Watch Week, a pre-Baselworld launch event for the luxury group’s three watch brands, which include Hublot and Zenith. The new Octo Finissimo Automatic Satin-Polished – in either steel or rose gold – is an iteration of earlier models, and is distinguished by its case finish, which is mostly brushed, but highlighted with mirror polished edges and flanks. With alternating brushed and polished surfaces, the new case finish catches the light nicely. In contrast, current versions of the Octo Finissimo Automatic have a uniformly matte, sandblasted finish that is more muted. While the finishing is new, the case is exactly the same size – 40mm by 5.25mm, giving it an incredibly slim profile on the wrist. The new case finishing is paired with a glossy, black-lacquered dial that has markings and hands to match the case material – either 18k rose gold with a leather strap, or in stainless steel with a matching bracelet. The bracelet is an integral part of the Octo Finissimo, so price and material aside, the steel model is more compelling from a design perspective. Both are powered by the BVL138, the ultra-thin automatic movement that’s standard for the Octo Finissimo. The movement is just 2.23mm high, and relies on a platinum micro rotor for winding. Key facts and price Octo Finissimo Automatic Satin-Polished Steel Ref. 103297 Octo Finiss...
Deployant
Review: Gorilla Fastback GT Drift “Elise”
We take a closer look at the Gorilla Fastback GT Drift "Elise", a watch which mixes different materials for the case, and a very special indication of time.
Deployant
New fun watch: Swatch Big Bold Jellyfish
Swatch updates its latest product line the Big Bold with a striking watch - the recreation of the popular see through case first seen on the Jellyfish.
SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces the Classique Dame 9065 Tahitian Mother-of-Pearl
Following the launch of the Classique 5177 in blue enamel last year, Breguet has now unveiled its feminine equivalent, the Classique Dame 9065. It’s dressed up in feminine style with a Tahitian black mother-of-pearl dial and brilliant-cut diamonds, but still bears Breguet’s trademark design with pomme hands and Breguet-style numerals. A limited edition of 28 pieces, the watch has a dainty rose-gold case measuring 33.5mm wide and just 7.55mm high thanks to the ultra-thin movement inside. The case is classical Breguet, featuring slim, straight lugs and a finely fluted case band. The bezel and lugs are set with 88 brilliant-cut diamonds, totalling approximately 0.606 carats, while the crown is set with a ruby. They frame a dial covered with a thin slice of black mother-of-pearl. Derived from black-lipped oysters found in and around Tahiti and the French Polynesian islands, Tahitian mother-of-pearl is prized for its naturally dark colour as well as its visual complexity. Apart from being much rarer than white mother-of-pearl, it also has vivid undertones accented with overtones of marine colours like violet and green. The dial features Breguet-style Arabic numerals printed on the mother of pearl, and classic Breguet hands with a slight – and unfortunately kitschy – twist: the seconds hand has a heart-shaped counterweight. To match the heart-shaped seconds and ruby cabochon, the date features a red disc printed with off-white numerals. Visible through the sapphire case...