Hodinkee
Vintage Watches: A 1972 Rolex Day-Date In White Gold, A 1960s Movado M95 Chronograph, And A 1970s Zenith Defy De Luxe
Plus, an update on Vintage Watches here at Hodinkee!
3,873 articles · 692 videos found · page 108 of 153
Hodinkee
Plus, an update on Vintage Watches here at Hodinkee!
Time+Tide
The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph Panda is the sportiest member of the collection thus far Joins the black reverse panda model from 2018 with a silver panda colourway Powered by the in-house calibre 5200, complete with Geneva Seal and solid gold rotor engraved with a compass rose The Overseas from Vacheron Constantin has been the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph Panda is the sportiest version yet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Back in the days, when the market for an affordable GMT was incredibly sparse, I distinctly recall the Bulova Accutron Astronaut as being one of the potential vintage options to add to the collection. At the time, I was already attracted to the aesthetic of a 24 hour steel bezel on a black dial watch, and the pairing of its faded green markers, as well as the italicized Astronaut wordmark, made it all the more appealing. Sadly, the Astronaut never made its way into the watchbox. Since then however, we’ve seen Bulova release several Accutron models in the form of the Legacy Collection, Spaceview, and DNA. But despite popular reissued designs like the Bulova Lunar Pilot Chronograph, we have yet to see a re-edition of the Accutron Astronaut GMT … until today. The new Accutron Astronaut is based off of the original 1968 “T” model featuring a distinct 41mm saucer steel case and a short lug set that just reveal themselves under the bezel. From overhead, the bezel eclipses the entire case making you want to look sideways at the thing. Like literally, sideways. Doing so displays the slim midcase that then angles inwards towards the caseback. No battery hatch here, as the caseback sports a semicircle exhibition display akin to that of a window on a space shuttle, providing an opportunity to peer inside at the Astronaut’s Sellita SW330 GMT movement. Despite the name Accutron, where its latter syllable is derived from the word “electronic,” from the original model’s t...
SJX Watches
Highly regarded for its artisanal movement finish, Atelier de Chronométrie relied entirely on vintage movements that were rebuilt and then decorated by hand. Now the brand finally has a movement to call its own with the M284. Vintage inspired like its timepieces, the M284 is a hand-wind calibre that makes its debut inside the AdC22 wristwatch. Initial thoughts AdC started out with watches that were equipped with refinished vintage movements that were beautifully decorated but not quite original enough to be special. The new proprietary movement – which has both fine finishing and tasteful design – elevates the brand to another level entirely. The classical layout, frequency, and short power reserve of just 38 hours seem to imply that the movement might be derived from a vintage ebauche, or at least built according to the architecture of a vintage movement. However, AdC states that the movement is a new construction done with the help of a specialist. Regardless of its origins, the M284 is a calibre executed well both in terms of design and decoration, as would be expected given AdC’s past work. Having examined several of prior AdC watches in detail, I imagine the M284 is finished extremely well and certainly on part with equivalent offerings from contemporary independent watchmakers. But AdC has the advantage of Mr Martinez’s aesthetic sensibility, which is perhaps even rarer than good movement decoration today. The design is clearly vintage inspired, but with sub...
Worn & Wound
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Blake Buettner Red Bull Racing 2023 Season Launch Recap This week, we had the opportunity to witness the launch of the RB19, Red Bull Racing’s Formula 1 car for the upcoming 2023 season (well, kinda). The car was launched in New York City, and is the only F1 car set to be revealed in the US, a sign of both the raising popularity of the sport in the States, as well an opportunity to spotlight their just-announced engine partner from the 2025 season on, Ford Performance. 2023 will the second year of the new regulations, which saw a shuffling of the regular order of a prior generation, and catapulted Red Bull’s team to the top of the heap, where they brought home the World Constructor’s championship, as well as the World Driver’s championship, won by Max Verstappen. Joining the team for the reveal were both drivers, Sergio Perez and Max Verstappen, as well as their newly announced reserve driver for the season, fan favorite, Daniel Ricciardo. All three were sporting the teams newly designed apparel, and there wasn’t much in the way of watch spotting, other ...
Video
Time+Tide
Black quietly makes its debut within the standard IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 collection. This latest iteration of the 2021 model measures in at 41mm in diameter and 51.8mm lug-to-lug. The watch features IWC’s 69835 calibre and the brand’s patented EasX-CHANGE system. The Pilot’s Watch is arguably the brand’s most recognisable line, and among the more … ContinuedThe post A black dial finally makes its way into the IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
There was one watch we saw at the LVMH Watch Week still under wraps, and it was also one of our favorites, even though it’s based on an existing model. The perfectly odd Defy Revival welcomes the new A3690 reference, with a brilliant teal dial with vignette effect that darkens towards the perimeter. If you’ve followed the first two releases of this Defy Revival, you won’t be surprised to hear that this is also based on a historic reference from 1969. This is a dial color that saw usage throughout the Defy collection of the era, another example of which you can see in this Affordable Vintage spotlight on the Defy from 2015. Side note, when are we getting the Revival treatment on the A781, A782, and A783? There’s not much left to say about the A3690 from a technical perspective, as it’s identical to the A3691, and A3642 we’ve seen released in recent months. The 37mm octagonal case and 14 sided bezel piece remain as funky as ever, and if you liked it on the other references, you’ll likely find a lot to love with this one. The dial is the biggest departure here and it makes just as big a statement as the case. While the teal dial thing has kind of jumped the shark at this point (hasn’t it?), Zenith gets a pass thanks to the historic reference point, and the fact that the Defy was doing integrated bracelet sport watches since the ‘60s. Plus, this is a great teal dial. It stands up to the bold design of the case and the accordion hour markers demanding equal at...
Teddy Baldassarre
The Background What a year it has been for Vacheron. As the oldest maker in continual production, 2021 has marked the centenary year for the now iconic 1921 model. Not only that, but its Overseas has become the must have steel sports watch alongside the Royal Oak and Nautilus. Since the discontinuation of the 5711 and 15202, the time only, 42mm steel Overseas has seen waitlist explode in length. But we are of course here to discuss the wonderful 1921. So, a little background on Vacheron to kick things off. The Genevois watchmaker Jean-Mark Vacheron founded the company in 1755 at just 24 years of age (he must have weathered his fair share of storms over the years - how many businesses make it through 5 years today). His ambition was to create timepieces that would stand out for their elegance and quality. In 1785, Vacheron's son Abraham took over the company, which survived the French Revolution, among other economic crises. By 1814, third-generation watchmaker Jacques Barthelemy Vacheron was leading the company, but Vacheron realized that he needed a partner if the company was to survive. It wasn’t until 1819 when Francois Constantin, became a partner in the firm. From that point forward, it was "Vacheron & Constantin”. The 1921 is a rare and unusual watch. You either love it or hate it (as all good design should be). Few will know that Vacheron Constantin did produce a similar looking watch first watch in 1919 which had the crown to the left of the lugs. It was a ru...
Time+Tide
Grand Seiko has issued a standard production Lake Suwa sequel to the limited edition SLGA007, the new SLGA021 Includes an Evolution 9 case and bracelet, 9RA2 5-day Spring Drive calibre, Lake Suwa textured dial. The SLGA021 dial is darker than the previous SLGA007, and also does not use a golden-toned hand and logo like the SLGA007. … ContinuedThe post OPINION: I am simultaneously fawning over, yet frustrated with, the new Grand Seiko SLGA021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Some may refer to Vacheron Constantin as the third member of the Swiss holy trinity of watchmaking. But after an incredibly strong showing last year, Vacheron may be the one you really need to explore. Here are five of our favourite releases from Vacheron Constantin in 2022. First up, is the brand’s irrefutable … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Five of our favourite Vacheron Constantin releases of 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Video
Worn & Wound
For decades, if not centuries, watches have been marketed as jewelry. Here at Worn & Wound, we think about watches as gear, and as much as we love watches, we love all kinds of gear. In September of 2021, the Windup Watch Shop introduced a new section called Everyday Carry, or EDC for short. The premise was, people who care deeply about what’s on their wrist also care deeply about what’s in their pockets and packs. We know this is not just a theory, as you’re likely setting your watch down next to a cool pocket knife and a carefully selected wallet each night. One year ago, we launched our first sponsored content series called Tool/Kit. Over the past 12 months, this series has become one of the most popular forms of content throughout the Worn & Wound ecosystem. We’ve taken watches on adventures with other great gear from NYC to Nashville, from Iceland to Bonaire. Based on the success of these watches + gear initiatives, we’re launching a new sponsored franchise called Time to Pack. This new monthly video series will feature our very own Kat Shoulders. In each episode, Kat will be pairing and packing a watch with some of her favorite travel gear. This first episode, presented by Nomatic, features their McKinnon Camera Pack 25L, a versatile and durable bag for pros and travelers alike, as well as Kat’s own traveling photography setup. Learn more about her packing style and her professional tools, along with her very own gear hacks and tricks of the trade. We...
Worn & Wound
Data nerds, rejoice: Mark Cho’s watch size survey is back. Back in 2019, watch collector and menswear retailer Mark Cho conducted his first watch size survey in an attempt to put some data behind one of the most peculiar yet foundational facets of watch collecting (we wrote about that survey here). The questions in Mark’s survey go beyond simple preferences, but get to how we view our own wrist size. Is it smaller or larger than average? And what effect does that have on the watches we choose to buy? Mark even asks about preferences for a potential “secondary watch” (a sports watch for the weekend, for example) to put an even finer point on the way we feel about watch size. When Mark first conducted the survey, he found that a significant percentage of respondents viewed their wrist as smaller than average, which could theoretically have been a result of the tail end of the Big Watch era making us all think our wrists were too small to comfortably handle some of the most popular watches of the time. In the relatively short period that’s passed since that first survey, though, smaller watches (not small watches) have fully come back into fashion, so it will be interesting to see if perceptions change along with preferences. Regardless, there’s sure to be a ton of data, and it will be interesting to comb through it once the survey is complete. If you’re interested in Mark’s findings from that first survey, be sure to check out his lecture for the Horologi...
Quill & Pad
While we are already quite a bit into 2023, Martin Green contemplates the year we left behind. He finds that sometimes it takes a while to understand and appreciate a new watch. Here he looks at a few of his favorite watches of 2022.
Time+Tide
Amid the routine scheduling throughout the week, surprisingly brands are still wasting no time and presenting novelties right away at the beginning of 2023. So here are three releases you may have missed this week that you may now want to check out. Art Piece Series: Credor CBY997 Limited Edition Black lacquer dial created by … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Credor, Gerald Charles and Hermès releases finish up the week appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The annual calendar is much more practical than a standard calendar, which needs correction in all months with 30 days or less; the annual calendar only needs correcting once a year in February. For owners of this noble yet practical complication, making this adjustment marks a yearly highlight. In celebration of the annual calendar, here are three exciting new models to kick off 2022 in style.
Video
Time+Tide
I have penned nearly a thousand articles for this site over the last two years, but two of the most read were under the Trading Faces tag – where I dissect an actual watch trade I have made in my collection. I love that you guys love it, because I love writing them. But now I … ContinuedThe post TRADING FACES: Why I swapped my Rolex Submariner for a Rolex Explorer 1016 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Blackpink star Lisa was made a Bulgari ambassador in 2020 Their new collaboration has a crazy triple-hue dial It features a loving tribute to her Swiss step-dad Not too long ago in 2022, my first exposure to South Korean stars in the realm of Swiss watches was a photoshoot with heartthrob Hyun Bin wearing the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Bulgari x Lisa has a crazy dial you’ve never seen before appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Much has been said about the Tudor Black Bay, here and elsewhere, and it’s ushering in of a new era of heritage inspired watches that’s taken hold throughout the industry. The Black Bay family has grown to include a broad range of watches, from GMTs and chronographs, to two-toned 36mm field watches, but the charm of the classic divers remains as strong today as when they were first released more than 10 years ago. Most of us here, and presumably many of you reading, have seen a Black Bay or two come through our collection at some point over the years, and each year we hold out hope for a particular spec or version of the watch we’d like to see released. It’s just had that kind of an effect on enthusiasts. As luck would have it, we recently found ourselves with an abundance of Black Bay watches in the office, so we took the opportunity to get them together and discuss the impact it’s had on each of us over the years. Below find a selection of our Black Bay reviews that we’ve published, including some of our favorites like the Black Bay 58, the Black Bay Pro, and the Steel & Gold Chrono. How has the Black Bay impacted your collecting? Which examples have you owned or do you hope to own? Let us know in the comments and be sure to share your ideal Black Bay that you’d love to see Tudor release this year. Hands-On with the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Navy Blue The Black Bay 58 in blue was a bright spot in an otherwise tumultuous 2020. This was the second version...
Hodinkee
Get all of the latest H Shop vintage watches right here.
Quill & Pad
From the torrent of really well done watch photos appearing on Instagram and other media these days, it appears as though lots of watch enthusiasts have been spending at least some of their time in COVID-19-induced shutdowns polishing their macro photography and wrist shooting. And GaryG is among them. Here he shares a few of the thousands of photos he has taken recently using a new-to-him flash style.
Video
Quill & Pad
It’s that time again! As in prior years, GaryG is in the process of moving his 2022 photos into backup storage, and before they go into the vault he has scanned through them and picked out his personal favorites from the past 12 months to share with us here. Enjoy!
Quill & Pad
As read by you, here are the top ten most viewed articles (plus a bonus one) on Quill & Pad this past year. There are a few favorites and a few surprises. Drum roll, please: in no particular order, our top ten most viewed articles of 2022 were . . .
Quill & Pad
For many watch enthusiasts, it is probably not a stretch to say that fine timepieces are often enjoyed with a fine glass of bubbly. So without further ado, here are five much-heralded prestige champagne releases from the stellar 2012 vintage that stand out for their extraordinary “taste.” Just in time for you to toast the start of 2023!
Quill & Pad
The year 2022 marks the centenary of the discovery of King Tutankhamun’s tomb. Here Nancy Olson highlights regal new limited edition pens from Montegrappa and Visconti that commemorate the 100-year-old discovery.
Quill & Pad
Most will agree that re-painting a dial is a big no-no. Vintage pieces with re-painted dials can be had for a steal as they are difficult to shift and mostly unwanted. But not all dial restorations are created equal, and we do encounter varying degrees of “upgrades.” Some of these upgrades are purposeful deception, while others are not. Here is what one watchmaker feels about the subject.
Video
Question, suggestion, or just want to say hi? Drop a note.