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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

Seiko’s 145th Anniversary Gilded Quartet, Time-Only to Chronograph SJX Watches
Seiko s 145th Anniversary Gilded Jan 6, 2026

Seiko’s 145th Anniversary Gilded Quartet, Time-Only to Chronograph

Seiko founder established a watch store in Tokyo’s Ginza district in 1881, and for the occasion the watchmaker has unveiled a quartet of 145th anniversary watches representing the best of its affordable offerings. While each model is different, all share gilded elements as a unifying motif. The collection is led by a pair of three-hand watches, the King Seiko KS1969 SJE121 and Presage Classic Series “Craftsmanship” Enamel Dial SPB538. While the two three-hand editions are arguably the more interesting of the 145th anniversary line-up, the collection also includes a pair of chronographs, the automatic Prospex Speedtimer SRQ059 and solar-powered Astron GPS SSH186. King Seiko SJE12 (left), and Presage Classic SPB538 Initial thoughts Seiko rolls out numerous anniversary watches on a frequent basis, so the anniversary theme itself isn’t a big deal. The 145th anniversary models, however, are appealing in themselves, especially the pair of three-hand models. The top-of-the-line anniversary edition is the King Seiko KS1969, which is far more striking than the regular production model, and certainly worth the modest premium in price. The Presage, on the other hand, is another iteration of the early-wristwatch-style case that Seiko has done before, but not that often. Gold plating is not appropriate on an expensive watch, but the Presage is affordable so it gets a pass. The enamel dial and cuff-style strap are a nice touch that gives the watch a surprisingly vintage feel. ...

First Look – Seiko’s Set of 4 New Watches for its 145th Anniversary, incl. a Surprising Vintage Presage Monochrome
Seiko s Set Jan 6, 2026

First Look – Seiko’s Set of 4 New Watches for its 145th Anniversary, incl. a Surprising Vintage Presage

Seiko has influenced and continues to shape modern horology as only a few watchmakers can. From its origins in 1881, when Kintaro Hattori opened a small shop in Tokyo, to becoming a global powerhouse in precision timekeeping, Seiko’s history is a register of constant innovation. Over the decades, the brand has delivered some of watchmaking’s […]

Up Close: Vacheron Constantin Minute Repeater “Epic Warriors” SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Minute Repeater “Epic Warriors” Jan 6, 2026

Up Close: Vacheron Constantin Minute Repeater “Epic Warriors”

Vacheron Constantin kept its team busy during its 270th anniversary year. Having put a tremendous amount of effort into the most complicated wristwatch ever made and a few other genuine novelties, many of the brand’s other releases, including several one-off Métiers d’art creations, were new versions of existing models. The Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Ultra-Thin Homage to Epic Warriors is an example of the latter, introducing four one-of-a-kind grand feu enamel references to its otherwise simple (and thin) minute repeater platform. Heroic subject matter The ‘warriors’ set celebrates four famous warriors from across time. The series begins with the Homage to Alexander the Great, a pupil of Aristotle who conquered much of the eastern Mediterranean region (and beyond) in the fourth century BCE. From there, the inspiration gradually moves east, making its first stop in what is now Saudi Arabia, where a warrior poet named Antarah ibn Shaddad, now often known simply as Antar, made his mark about 1,500 years ago. The Antar reference was not available to photograph. No set of warrior-themed watches would be complete without an homage to the most legendary conquerer of all time, Ghengis Khan. That name is actually a title he adopted in 1206, and translates as ‘universal ruler’. The series concludes by looking east, to the land of the rising sun. Sasaki Moritsuna was technically a contemporary of Ghengis Khan, though he died when the future Mongolian ruler was just ...

Daan’s Watch Resolutions For 2026 - More Concrete Options For Contemporary Watches Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Medium Duoface Jan 5, 2026

Daan’s Watch Resolutions For 2026 - More Concrete Options For Contemporary Watches

Last year, I also wrote an article on my New Year’s resolutions. It actually contained one bold resolution: I was considering letting my Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Medium Duoface go in favor of a Ressence Type 9. At the end of the article, I also mentioned that it might be more of a long-term plan. Well, […] Visit Daan’s Watch Resolutions For 2026 - More Concrete Options For Contemporary Watches to read the full article.

Complicated Collectors: Seth Atwood SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 871 made Jan 5, 2026

Complicated Collectors: Seth Atwood

In the late 1970s, anyone serious about horology would eventually find themselves in Rockford, Illinois, about 90 miles west of Chicago. Visitors stayed in a hotel near a motorway that happened to be home to many of the world’s greatest clocks and watches. The collection of Seth Atwood sat below the everyday hum: Roman sundials beside Islamic astrolabes; marine chronometers alongside French regulators; English pocket watches paired with American factory movements; and, at the far end, atomic clocks. Rockford was a town that built machine tools and industrial equipment, so the hotel naturally served business travellers and convention attendees. But among them were watchmakers who flew in from Europe and Asia to see mechanisms they couldn’t examine anywhere else. For nearly three decades, one man’s vision put Rockford on the horological map. The 1972 secular true perpetual calendar Patek Philippe ref. 871, made for Seth G. Atwood. Image – Christies/collage Rockford native Seth Glanville Atwood was born in 1917, into a world of industrial logic. His father had started the Atwood Vacuum Machine Company a year earlier, its first product a simple spring-loaded bumper that kept car doors from rattling. Detroit needed millions of them, and the company grew from there, supplying window regulators, door hardware, and other practical parts in volume. Seth grew up around engineers and production managers who solved problems with their hands. After Stanford, Harvard Business Sc...

eBay Finds: Vintage Watches from Omega, Bulova, Waltham, and More! Worn & Wound
Bulova Waltham Jan 2, 2026

eBay Finds: Vintage Watches from Omega, Bulova, Waltham, and More!

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Omega DeVille  Starting off this week with a beautiful vintage Omega Seamaster DeVille. The DeVille is of course Omega’s dressy version of their iconic Seamaster line. This example has a 34mm wide yellow gold capped case in nice shape, looking unpolished with crisp edges on the super thin lugs. The caseback Hippocampus medallion is nice and clear. The gold dial has a delightful linen texture, with stick markers and stick hands, and a date window at 3 o’clock. The original crown has nice deep grooves, and is signed with the Omega symbol as it should. The case is a front-loading type and there are no movement pictures, but the watch runs per the seller.  View auction here Vintage Bulova with Box and Papers Here is a nice little vintage Bulova, complete with original box and papers. The seller doesn’t state the size, but I’m guessing the steel case is probably 33-34mm wide. The case is sharp, with nice fancy lugs and a relatively broad bezel. The silvery dial has a military style look, with painted lume Arabic numerals and lume filled sword hands. The crown is signed with the Bulova logo. The watch comes on a cool looking steel stretch bracelet that may or not be original...

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Jan 1, 2026

[VIDEO] Year in Review: Our Most Worn Watches of 2025

Every year, we ask members of our team to tell us about their most worn watch of the year. This is a pretty standard piece of watch content fare by now, but there’s a good reason for its popularity and durability. Figuring out what you gravitated to over and over again in the span of the year is meaningful. It can tell us about how you lived your life in that ime span, what was important to you, and, more obviously, simply which watch resonated most with you.   Here are members of the Worn & Wound team discussing their most worn watch of 2025. Be sure to let us know about yours in the comments below. The post [VIDEO] Year in Review: Our Most Worn Watches of 2025 appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Retrospective: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Handwerkskunst SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Jan 1, 2026

Retrospective: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Handwerkskunst

One of the most important complications of A. Lange & Söhne is undoubtedly the Zeitwerk. And the fanciest iteration of the digital watch is undoubtedly the Zeitwerk Handwerkskunst. A limited edition of 30 pieces launched in 2012, this Zeitwerk is part of the Handwerkskunst collection of watches dressed up with hand-applied decoration – handwerkskunst being German for “craftsmanship”. One of Lange’s most important creations, the Zeitwerk is quirky, weird, yet appealing, especially in the first generation format; the Handwerkskunst is probably the pinnacle of that generation. Like a Labubu, it is weird but adorable. I recently got to spend an extended period of time with the Zeitwerk Handwerkskunst, and I thought it worth revisiting. Initial thoughts Lange’s Handwerkskunst collection is eight-watches strong, but I rank the Zeitwerk and Datograph as the best, even though they are neither the most complex nor the most elaborately decorated, because the two models are amongst the brand’s most significant models (alongside the Lange 1). The Zeitwerk is historical for being one of the first digital-display watches – and probably the most reliable, still – and is visually distinctive enough to be one of Lange’s most recognisable models. Moreover, the Handwerkskunst version is not merely dressed up, but it also incorporates a novel escapement that Lange has not used in any other model except for the monumental Grand Complication (that is more complicated and impr...

Which 1,000m-Rated Dive Watch Is Right For You? Fratello
Jan 1, 2026

Which 1,000m-Rated Dive Watch Is Right For You?

When you talk about dive watches rated for the sort of depths only a handful of human divers - let alone cameras, regulators, or submersibles - will ever see, you cross the border from sporting gear into mechanical heroics. Dive watches are built to match these endeavors. In this article, I’ll explore five extraordinary timepieces […] Visit Which 1,000m-Rated Dive Watch Is Right For You? to read the full article.

SJX Podcast: Best of 2025 – Surprises SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin also surprised Dec 31, 2025

SJX Podcast: Best of 2025 – Surprises

Episode 24 of the SJX Podcast covers the surprises and unexpected developments of 2025, a year marked by significant material innovation and bold statements from established brands. In this final episode of 2025, SJX and Brandon discuss Rolex’s landmark Land-Dweller with its revolutionary Dynapulse escapement, Breguet’s experimental magnetic constant-force mechanism that achieved unprecedented precision, and TAG Heuer’s industrialization of carbon hairsprings. Vacheron Constantin also surprised with an extraordinary 150 kg astronomical clock created for its 270th anniversary, temporarily displayed at the Louvre alongside a companion wristwatch. Thank you to all our listeners for joining us throughout 2025 – happy new year! Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.  

A Year In Review - 2025 Saw A Slow Market But Surprisingly Good Watches Fratello
Casio ns Dec 31, 2025

A Year In Review - 2025 Saw A Slow Market But Surprisingly Good Watches

Another year has gone by, so it’s time for this yearly ritual of looking back at the past 12 months and mentioning the noteworthy occasions and events. It always takes me a few days to collect and curate my thoughts on the year here at Fratello and in the watch industry. The number of watch […] Visit A Year In Review - 2025 Saw A Slow Market But Surprisingly Good Watches to read the full article.

SJX Podcast: Best of 2025 – Value Propositions SJX Watches
Christopher Ward Albishorn Dec 29, 2025

SJX Podcast: Best of 2025 – Value Propositions

Episode 23 of the SJX Podcast looks at value propositions under US$10,000. It was a mixed year for affordable watches, but the highlights include Tudor, which continued to refine its sports watch formula with the well-received Ranger 36, and several micro-brands that made compelling cases for themselves with distinctive designs and upgraded movements. Key releases from Christopher Ward, Albishorn, and Kollokium demonstrated there’s still room for creativity and innovation at accessible price points, even as some established players moved upmarket. The Grand Seiko UFA, which is priced just on the other side of the five-figure mark, is also compelling and may be worth a splurge. Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.  

Hands On: Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar PAM01575 SJX Watches
Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar PAM01575 Dec 29, 2025

Hands On: Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar PAM01575

The Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech PAM01575 is one of the most unconventional perpetual calendars on the market, combining the brand’s military-inspired emphasis on legibility and robustness with a high-spec, crown-operated perpetual calendar movement designed for daily wear. Housed in a hard-wearing 44 mm Platinumtech case and powered by the P.4100 calibre, the PAM01575 challenges expectations for what a Panerai can be, applying the brand’s utilitarian DNA to one of watchmaking’s most respected complications. A user-friendly perpetual calendar Panerai is a brand rooted in its identity as a supplier of watches and dive instruments to the Italian navy. The brand’s utilitarian aesthetic, with bold dial markings and a distinctive crown guard, earned it a cult following in the early 2000s, and while some of the enthusiasm of that era has waned, the designs remain as recognisable as ever. Military watches are usually designed to be legible and robust, user-friendly traits that make them appealing to civilians. User-friendliness is something of a complication in its own right, and in some ways is one of the final frontiers of movement design. This includes both legibility, and the priority of information on the dial, and functionality, ensuring that the movement is easy to operate and resilient against mishandling. These issues are especially present when it comes to perpetual calendars, which must present a lot of information; George Daniels famousl...

Hands-On With Blancpain’s Pink Fifty Fathoms “For Women” Fratello
Blancpain s Pink Fifty Fathoms Dec 28, 2025

Hands-On With Blancpain’s Pink Fifty Fathoms “For Women”

Pink is a fun color, regardless of how we feel about whether or not it’s purely feminine. Recently, I had the chance to spend some time with the pink Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique ref. 5007 12B44R NAFA. Here are some thoughts. When I first encountered the new 38mm Blancpain Fifty Fathoms with the pink mother-of-pearl […] Visit Hands-On With Blancpain’s Pink Fifty Fathoms “For Women” to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: A Look Back At Our Favorite Battles Of 2025 Fratello
Dec 28, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: A Look Back At Our Favorite Battles Of 2025

As the year draws to a close, it is time to look back at some of our favorite Sunday Morning Showdowns of 2025. The series has become a Fratello tradition by now. Every Sunday morning, two Fratello writers go head to head, defending their watches of choice. This year, we have witnessed another series of […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: A Look Back At Our Favorite Battles Of 2025 to read the full article.

Year in Review: Predictions for 2026 SJX Watches
Christopher Ward Dec 26, 2025

Year in Review: Predictions for 2026

Twenty twenty-six is just days away. Most in the watch industry are hoping the new year will bring better times than 2025, though most equally don’t quite expect that to happen. That said, it will be a great year for some brands, big and small. Architectural and affordable Independent watch brands have had a great run, and that looks like it’ll continue, especially for (expensive) time-only watches with decorated movements and frequently, open or no dials. Plenty of independent watchmakers cater to this demand, all for more or less the same money. Personally, I find many such watches uninteresting – though a few stand out and feel like they will stand the test of time – but the strength of demand will propel this trend. I expect two more interesting developments to emerge from this. One is watches priced lower, or much lower, than the typical CHF65,000-90,000 range for such watches. Ironically, while lower priced options might offer better value, they might be less appealing precisely because they are cheaper. That said, there is still opportunity in this segment, especially since lower prices often go hand-in-hand with higher volumes, so the market will gradually fulfil it, particularly since the way forward is obvious. Functionally, such watches are not complex. Computer-aided design makes it even simpler by allowing manufacturers to rework existing calibres with relative ease; Christopher Ward is already doing something along these lines with the C12. And decora...

SJX Podcast: Best of 2025 – Complications SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin s 270th Dec 26, 2025

SJX Podcast: Best of 2025 – Complications

Episode 22 of the SJX Podcast looks back at the complicated watches that emerged in 2025, a banner year that saw major brands deliver ambitious and record-setting complications. Several anniversaries, including Vacheron Constantin’s 270th and Audemars Piguet’s 150th, resulted in inspired releases. Big brands delivered big hits, from Lange’s black enamel minute repeater perpetual calendar to Blancpain’s Grande Double Sonnerie, which feature a four-note melody composed by Kiss drummer Eric Singer. For its part, Chopard finally gave its sapphire gongs the platform they always deserved with the Grand Strike, the brand’s first-ever grande sonnerie. And while Audemars Piguet’s big anniversary was headlined by the RD#5, the brand’s crown-operated perpetual calendar was another important addition to the field of complications this year. Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.