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Daniel Roth Returns with the Tourbillon Souscription SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton LFT Initial thoughts I Mar 21, 2023

Daniel Roth Returns with the Tourbillon Souscription

After more than a year of rumours, LVMH finally confirmed the long expected with its February announcement of the relaunch of Daniel Roth. And now the brand officially debuts its inaugural watch, the Tourbillon Souscription. Modelled on the Daniel Roth tourbillon of 1988, the Tourbillon Souscription is almost a remake of the original from thirty-five years ago. It retains the same styling characterised by a double-ellipse case and one-minute tourbillon at six, but is entirely new in terms of mechanics: inside is a brand-new mechanical movement developed by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton (LFT). Initial thoughts I got in touch with Daniel Roth and his wife Nicolas after learning of the brand’s revival. They indicated their approval of the project. Their approval will probably have little impact on the new watches since they aren’t involved in the brand’s comeback, but it is certainly good to know. Being a homage to the brand’s origins, the Tourbillon Souscription is a good opening act in its revival. But for the resurrected brand to have longevity and relevance, it would have to do more than remakes; it will have to create new and original products that channel the spirit of the originals, a point I made in my earlier editorial. A Daniel Roth tourbillon from the 1990s The Tourbillon Souscription is clearly inspired by the original watches of the 1990s. It retains the same dimensions and almost all the details, right down to the hobnail guilloche dial. In fact, i...

Paired Up Mondays with the Zodiac Olympos Military Worn & Wound Edition Worn & Wound
Zodiac Olympos Military Worn & Mar 20, 2023

Paired Up Mondays with the Zodiac Olympos Military Worn & Wound Edition

We’re back with another pairing for Paired Up Monday’s. A while back, we partnered with the folks at Zodiac to create the Olympos Military Worn & Wound Edition. The creation took their 2:00 o’clock crowned Olympos and gave it a classic military dial with railroad minute track and bold numbers. Overall, the watch was a perfect amalgamation of both brands. We’re back with another pairing for Paired Up Monday’s. A while back, we partnered with the folks at Zodiac to create the Olympos Military Worn & Wound Edition. The creation took their 2:00 o’clock crowned Olympos and gave it a classic military dial with railroad minute track and bold numbers. Overall, the watch was a perfect amalgamation of both brands. The post Paired Up Mondays with the Zodiac Olympos Military Worn & Wound Edition appeared first on Worn & Wound.

[Hands-On] The Bell & Ross BR05 Skeleton Golden Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross BR05 Skeleton Golden We’re Mar 20, 2023

[Hands-On] The Bell & Ross BR05 Skeleton Golden

We’re not yet at the stage that the BR05 is seen as THE Bell & Ross-there’s still a long way to go before it could dethrone the classic square silhouette of the BR01 and BR03 models-but it feels like it has grown up enough to be seen as not just another brand jumping on the integrated bracelet sport watch bandwagon. It’s not even four years since the first of the BR05 variants were unveiled, and during that time we have seen three-handers, chronographs and GMTs. Stainless steel watches have seen bead-blasting and ‘Artline’ finishing. There have been rose gold and two-tone cases. Dials have come in black, white, copper, green, and blue. And lets not forget the Kenissi powered BR-X5 which has also evolved from the same case. As I browse the BR05 catalogue, both past and present, I’m struck by two thoughts. Firstly, there have been a LOT of different watches in this line. It’s not surprising that a brand should choose to repeat and rework a flagship model, but even allowing for quite a number of limited editions, that’s still a lot of releases since the original 2019 debut. This leads to my second thought. Despite always being impressed with the overall aesthetic, case design and finishing, why haven’t I found one that I really like? Finding my own answer to that has required me to attempt to classify what type of watch the BR05 actually is. $6600 [Hands-On] The Bell & Ross BR05 Skeleton Golden Case Stainless Stee Movement BR-CAL.322 (Base SW300-1) Dia...

Invicta on pole position with a marketing masterclass in Formula 2 Time+Tide
Mar 19, 2023

Invicta on pole position with a marketing masterclass in Formula 2

Editor’s note: As soon as Invicta is mentioned in the presence of watch enthusiasts, jests and jeers are inevitable. The brand has long strayed from its centuries-old heritage and has since evolved into a mall and QVC/TV-peddled watch brand largely known for affordable homage-driven designs. But Kieran, a recent addition to the Time+Tide team, has done something … ContinuedThe post Invicta on pole position with a marketing masterclass in Formula 2 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

10 Astronomical Complications That Have Not Been Invented As Suggested By ChatGPT: I Thought That A ‘Time Dilation Monitor’ Has Promise, But May Require Quantum Entanglement Quill & Pad
Mar 18, 2023

10 Astronomical Complications That Have Not Been Invented As Suggested By ChatGPT: I Thought That A ‘Time Dilation Monitor’ Has Promise, But May Require Quantum Entanglement

Open AI's ChatGPT is many a lot of news and headlines recently, so Ian Skellern thought to see if this powerful technology could advance horology by asking it to, "Give him 10 astronomical complications for wristwatches that have not been invented yet." This is what it suggested . . .

The Intrigue & Significance of the Patek Philippe Owned by the Last Emperor of China SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Owned Mar 18, 2023

The Intrigue & Significance of the Patek Philippe Owned by the Last Emperor of China

A historically important Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96 with full calendar and moon phase will soon be offered at Phillips, but the news isn’t so much about the watch itself but the story behind it. While extraordinarily rare in itself, the ref. 96 quantieme lune is exceptional for its provenance: its original owner was Aisin-Gioro Puyi, the last emperor of China and heir to a 4,000-year old imperial throne. As the final ruler of the Qing Dynasty, Puyi was arguably a hapless individual overcome by circumstances and overtaken by history – a life dramatised in the Bernardo Bertolucci’s film The Last Emperor – leaving him with a mixed reputation and legacy. The ref. 96, however, makes clear his appreciation of mechanical timepieces. Yet this long-lost imperial watch is extremely flawed on its face. But the heavily-aged dial, seemingly severely damaged, also echoes the tale of Puyi’s brief reign, a turbulent time when an empire met its end and a feudal dynasty was transformed into a modern nation. Image – PaddleWaves An Emperor’s timekeeper Ascending the throne at age two in 1908, Puyi was destined for a life of absolute power. But shortly after, the child Emperor witnessed the collapse of Imperial China and his family’s four century-old dynasty in the wake of the Xinhai Revolution of 1911 that gave birth to the Republic of China. In 1932, perhaps unwitting or naive, he became the titular ruler of Manchukuo, the puppet state of Manchuria that was controlle...

Watch Scrolling: Here are Five (More) Instagram Accounts We Think Are Worth a Follow Worn & Wound
Mar 17, 2023

Watch Scrolling: Here are Five (More) Instagram Accounts We Think Are Worth a Follow

Last month, Zach Kazan brought us 5 Instagrams accounts with endlessly awesome watch content to scroll through. If you ask us, the key to a good Instagram feed is diversity, so we’re here with 5 more recommendations that we think will add some real value to your well earned scrolling time. We’ve got a little of everything here, including a few bonus picks outside of the realm of watches to keep your sanity in check.  Without further ado, here are 5 (and a bit more) selections from our Managing Editor, Blake Buettner. As always, if you have any of your own recommendations for us, feel free to leave them in the comments below! Header image credit: @talkingabouttime @talkingabouttime   View this profile on Instagram   Stephen (@talkingabouttime) • Instagram photos and videos Stephen, aka talkingabouttime is a photographer with some serious skills in catching the details of watches from some of our favorite brands. Stephen also has a knack for sharing watches from new brands you may not yet be familiar with, and thanks to the beautiful photography, make them quite enticing along the way. I love the sheer diversity of watches that appear on this feed, and have stumbled across more than a few hidden gems while scrolling. @10thwatch   View this profile on Instagram   X (@10thwatch) • Instagram photos and videos This account belongs to a collector perpetually looking for the perfect 10 watch collection, with the 10th being the best, obviously. This collector has eclec...

How Swiss is Swiss enough? Time+Tide
Mar 17, 2023

How Swiss is Swiss enough?

According to the BBC, the Swiss chocolate bar, Toblerone, is being forced to remove the image of the iconic Swiss Matterhorn mountain peak on its pyramid-shaped packaging, due to some of its production moving from Switzerland to Slovakia. The reason? Not Swiss enough. Clearly, having “Swiss made” on the label is valuable, especially for products … ContinuedThe post How Swiss is Swiss enough? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Christopher Ward Debuts a Pair of C63 Sealanders with their SH21 Movement Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Debuts Mar 16, 2023

Christopher Ward Debuts a Pair of C63 Sealanders with their SH21 Movement

Christopher Ward’s C63 Sealander, the brand’s value oriented, all purpose sports watch that debuted in April 2021, is getting an upgrade this week, and for a good cause. With all of the press concerning Christopher Ward’s Bel Canto at the end of last year, it would be easy to forget that they have another, perhaps even more significant, horological achievement in the Calibre SH21 movement. This five day, chronometer certified movement is the brand’s flagship, and the first industrialized mechanical caliber from a British watch brand in fifty years. It’s genuinely historic, so when they put it in a watch for the first time, it’s a special occasion by default. These new Sealanders live up to the occasion not just in terms of design and aesthetics, but by being the face of a worthy charitable endeavor as well.  The C63 SH21 Blue Marine is the latest watch that Christopher Ward has made in partnership with the Blue Marine Foundation, a marine conservation organization that the brand has worked with several times. For this release, 5% of the sale price of Blue Marine watch will go back to the organization to benefit their efforts around cleaning the ocean of rising levels of plastics. Similarly, the C63 SH21 Snow Leopard is being launched with the David Shepherd Wildlife Foundation, another longtime Christopher Ward charitable partner. The DSWF is a wildlife charity that funds conservation projects throughout Africa and Asia, and for this release 5% of the sale of ...

[VIDEO] The Rolex Explorer Hits the Collector’s Roundtable Worn & Wound
Rolex Explorer Hits Mar 16, 2023

[VIDEO] The Rolex Explorer Hits the Collector’s Roundtable

The Explorer has a way of sneaking up on you. It’s not all that flashy, has no real complexity to speak of, features slightly strange looking numerals at 3, 6, and 9, and clocks in at a diminutive 36mm in diameter. Yet, it’s a watch that gets under the skin over time and exposure. At least that was the case for the trio of Explorer owners at Worn & Wound. In this collector’s roundtable, Kat Shoulder, Zach Weiss, and Blake Buettner sit down to discuss three different references of the Explorer that have managed to find a spot in each of their collections.  Three references that represent two different generations of the Explorer, and two generations that manage to tell two very different stories about where Rolex is, and where they’ve been. Yet, somehow, these watches share an obvious core DNA that binds them. In this video, we find the modern references 124270 (steel), 124273 (steel & gold), and the 114270 (steel) from the early ‘00s. Each has their own unique appeal, and each says something specific about us as collectors. Don’t miss our full review of the Explorer 124270 from back when it’s retail price was $6,450. It’s safe to say the watch made a good enough impression to become a permanent part of the collection. Share your thoughts on these references or the Explorer in general in the comments below or on YouTube, and while you’re there, be sure to subscribe for more content like this.  The post [VIDEO] The Rolex Explorer Hits the Collector’s Ro...

H. Moser (Finally) Introduces a Smaller Pioneer in Two Flavors of Arctic Blue Fumé Worn & Wound
H. Moser Finally Introduces Mar 16, 2023

H. Moser (Finally) Introduces a Smaller Pioneer in Two Flavors of Arctic Blue Fumé

You know what’s satisfying? When a watch brand does the thing that just about everyone wants them to do, after a period of time where it seemed like they definitely were not going to do that very thing. Listening to customers and delivering what they want is a hallmark of the microbrand scene, and, at least to some extent, independent watchmaking as a whole. But it needs to be balanced – you can’t just turn out every request that comes in, lest a brand lose their identity in the process. So what H. Moser has done here with a pair of new watches in the Pioneer collection feels quite special, like they’ve heard the voice of the community and reacted in a particularly Moser way.  When I reviewed the Moser Pioneer “Mega Cool” I commented that the immediate impression of the case, in terms of its size, was not a positive one. The 43mm Pioneer case in stainless steel is heavy and kind of clunky, with proportions that seem designed to make it recognizable from across a room rather than contour to the wrist. In principle, I don’t have a problem with that approach – there’s nothing wrong with a watch being brash and bold just for the sake of it. But even as I gradually got used to the size of the Pioneer during my time with it, the case’s oversized aesthetic was just never to my taste. Kind of a shame, because I absolutely love the dial, and the idea of an elevated, luxury sports watch in this style holds a lot of appeal for me.  This week, Moser has gone a lo...

Girard-Perregaux Goes Full Aston Martin Racing Green in New Ceramic Laureato Worn & Wound
Girard-Perregaux Goes Full Aston Martin Mar 15, 2023

Girard-Perregaux Goes Full Aston Martin Racing Green in New Ceramic Laureato

It’s a good time to be an Aston Martin fan. Review embargoes finally lifted on their next generation hypercar, the Valkyrie (spoiler alert, it’s bonkers); their Formula 1 team is showing a shocking amount of pace with the legendary Spainiard, Fernando Alonso (don’t call him old) at the wheel; and finally, as of today, that iconic Aston Martin Racing Green is now available in the new fully ceramic Laureato from Girard-Perregaux. The Laureato is low key one of the great integrated sport watches at the high end, and this is the first time it’s been offered in AMR green, as well as being fully rendered in ceramic.  The newest limited edition additions to the Laureato range will be offered in both the 38mm and 42mm sizing, mirroring what is currently offered elsewhere in the collection. More options is never a bad thing in our book, though in my brief time with the watch I found the 38mm to wear exceptionally well given the shape of the case. Unlike other integrated watches, the Laureato manages the lug transition in a way that more closely resembles the footprint of a more traditional lug placement, leading to a more ‘true to size’ experience with the watch. With that in mind, the 42mm doesn’t wear overly large, and given the weight of the watches will not present much in the way of heft, either. Both sizes are relatively scant, with the 42mm measuring 11mm in thickness, and the 38mm measuring a hair over 10mm in thickness. With a case and bracelet constructed o...

Massena LAB Teams Up with Angelus for a Limited Edition Doctor’s Chronograph with a Special Movement Worn & Wound
Massena Lab Teams Up Mar 15, 2023

Massena LAB Teams Up with Angelus for a Limited Edition Doctor’s Chronograph with a Special Movement

For the latest Massena LAB limited edition, William Massena’s boutique brand specializing in tasteful remakes of classic pieces with real watch nerd pedigree is reaching back to the 1960s, and showcasing a different type of tool watch. The collaborator for this edition, Angelus, is a historic Swiss brand known largely for their excellent chronographs, and the limited edition seen here is based on a deep cut made specifically for physicians. The Chronographe Médical x Massena LAB is the first watch in Angelus’s new La Fabrique collection, which will specialize in recreating important Angelus watches in small batch limited editions.  The principle behind a “doctor’s watch” is fairly well known. These watches were typically chronographs that incorporate a pulsation scale at the perimeter of the dial or within a bezel, making it easy for a doctor to quickly calculate the heartrate of a patient. Their operation is simple: start the chronograph, count ten heartbeats (or the number the scale on your watch is calibrated for), and then stop the chronograph. The chronograph seconds hand will be pointing to the number of heart beats per minute. You can imagine that the practicality here for a doctor, particularly when watches like this were being made in the 1950s and 60s, was off the charts. Even for the average person, it could be argued that a pulsation scale would be more useful day to day than something like a tachymeter or a telemeter.  The Chronograph Médical lim...

IWC Debuts Customisation for Portugieser Chronograph SJX Watches
IWC Debuts Customisation Mar 15, 2023

IWC Debuts Customisation for Portugieser Chronograph

With luxury brands vying to offer clients individuality in products, customised watches are now fairly common. The trend began at aftermarket providers, but establishment watchmakers are gradually making such offerings available beyond their highest-end clientele. The latest entrant is IWC with its Individualisation Service, a surprisingly straightforward customisation process that’s a first for a mainstream watch brand. Available at just two locations for now, the service allows clients to personalise a Portugieser Chronograph; anyone can walk into either of the IWC stores in Shanghai or Dubai and select a case material, match it with a variety of dials and straps, with the finished watch ready in about three weeks. The caveat: the customised watch costs an CHF1,500 over the retail price of the standard-production model. Initial thoughts Despite the clunky name, IWC’s Individualisation Service is definitely a welcome development since it’s a factory-official customised watch that is relatively accessible in price. Customisation is typically offered to only a brand’s biggest-spending clients, so this democratises the concept to a degree. Granted, it’s being trialed at just two locations, but it will surely be rolled out more widely once its commercial viability is proven. That said, the Individualisation Service has limitations. It allows clients to choose from a range of fixed options, rather than allowing free rein to tweak or redesign the watch. So if you...

The new Tissot Chemin des Tourelles collection aims to make classic design contemporary (Live Pics) Time+Tide
Tissot Chemin des Tourelles collection Mar 14, 2023

The new Tissot Chemin des Tourelles collection aims to make classic design contemporary (Live Pics)

Zach, what would be a great first watch for me to buy? This is a question I get asked all the time, and the answer almost always leads to a discussion about Tissot. Upon the introduction of the PRX, were anyone looking for a sporty yet elegant and cost-approachable go-anywhere-do-anything watch, it could not be … ContinuedThe post The new Tissot Chemin des Tourelles collection aims to make classic design contemporary (Live Pics) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Atelier de Chronométrie Partners with The Lavish Attic on Ultra Limited AdC33 Worn & Wound
H. Moser Mar 13, 2023

Atelier de Chronométrie Partners with The Lavish Attic on Ultra Limited AdC33

Earlier this year, we saw the debut of a new ‘in-house’ caliber from Atelier de Chronométrie called the M284 within a beautiful watch called the AdC22 which we introduced to you right here. Today we’re getting a glimpse at the next chapter for this movement in the form of the AdC33, a limited edition collaboration with The Lavish Attic, a Hong Kong based collective that curates exclusive high craft products and experiences, serving as area distributors for Urwerk and H. Moser. Here, the outfit is collaborating with Atelier de Chronométrie on an exclusive watch that offers buyers a few interesting choices, including white “Grand Feu” enamel dials with ancient Chinese characters, and an alloy called Gray Gold.  Precious metal cases have expanded beyond the likes of just yellow and rose gold, with stuff like tantalum, black platinum, and proprietary mixes like Omega’s Moonshine offering a wide selection of pricey yet tantalizing choices when it comes to cases. Let’s add gray gold to that list, a gold alloy with high palladium content that apparently lands somewhere between white gold and platinum in appearance. In the case of the AdC33 seen here, it takes on the stepped 37mm case in beautiful fashion, and it’s offered alongside more traditional yellow and rose options. Not to be outdone by the case, the dial brings plenty of intrigue as well thanks to its finish as well as the markings at the 3, 9, and 12 o’clock positions. The white grand feu dial is ins...

Paired Up Mondays With The Laco Aachen 42 Worn & Wound
Laco Aachen 42 You’ve just Mar 13, 2023

Paired Up Mondays With The Laco Aachen 42

You’ve just purchased that watch you always wanted. The size is perfect. The color is exactly how it looked online. And for days afterwards, you find yourself in utter bliss. However, like most people on this earth, you end up wanting something different. Something more. And it’s at that point in time you start looking at straps. You’ve just purchased that watch you always wanted. The size is perfect. The color is exactly how it looked online. And for days afterwards, you find yourself in utter bliss. However, like most people on this earth, you end up wanting something different. Something more. And it’s at that point in time you start looking at straps. The post Paired Up Mondays With The Laco Aachen 42 appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Review: The New Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon SLGT003 Deployant
Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon SLGT003 Mar 13, 2023

Review: The New Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon SLGT003

In 2020, the world bore witness to something off the beaten path from Grand Seiko: an openworked, concept movement which incorporates a constant-force mechanism and a tourbillon as one unit on a single axis. This was the T0 Constant-force Tourbillon concept movement. While impressive, the T0 was an uncased, unwearable movement; it was not aRead More