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The 1990 Lange Revival A. Lange & Söhne

A. Lange & Söhne revived 7 December 1990, exactly 145 years after the 1845 founding. Walter Lange + Günter Blümlein; 1994 launch of Lange 1, Saxonia, Arkade, Tourbillon Pour le Mérite.

Introducing – Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Inventiva Gyrotourbillon a Stratosphere Monochrome
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Inventiva Gyrotourbillon Apr 14, 2026

Introducing – Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Inventiva Gyrotourbillon a Stratosphere

Any watch bearing “Hybris” in its name represents the pinnacle of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s mechanics and craftsmanship. Representing the third pillar of the elite Hybris family, the new Inventiva series is dedicated to single, groundbreaking complications. The first in line is the extraordinary Master Hybris Inventiva Gyrotourbillon à Stratosphère Calibre 178. Building on two decades of multi-axis […]

Hands On: IWC Pilot’s Venturer Vertical Drive SJX Watches
IWC Pilot’s Venturer Vertical Drive Apr 14, 2026

Hands On: IWC Pilot’s Venturer Vertical Drive

IWC teams up with Vast, prospective constructors of the International Space Station’s private successor, with the IWC Pilot’s Venturer Vertical Drive, a uniquely astronaut-friendly take on a spacefaring watch that breaks new ground for IWC’s signature pilots watches. If all goes well, these watches pass the Kármán line next year when Vast plans to launch the Haven-1 commercial space station. Initial thoughts Vast is an American aerospace company hoping to develop modular commercial space stations (Haven-2), and, at a glance seems more promising than the average ambitious space startup. If all goes to plan, the Vast Pilot will launch with the Vast’s Haven-1 prototype space station in 2027. The Pilot’s Venturer Vertical Drive - which could easily have been called the “Vast Pilot” as a play on its popular Big Pilot - is among the most visually appealing watches from IWC in recent memory. Computer rendering of the Vast Haven-1. Image – Vast Pressroom The combination of white and dark gray, and a clean but technical look leans into the “NASA Punk” aesthetic. The minimalist industrial look calls to mind watches like the IWC Ocean 2000, designed by Ferdinand Alexander Porsche. The gradated blue horizon around the dial is an inspired thematic choice, and is paired with a matching seconds hand. The lack of a chronograph is surprising, given IWC’s general affinity for them, as well as their domination of the space watch genre. I find that refreshing, sinc...

Laurent Ferrier’s Sport Traveller is Ready for Takeoff SJX Watches
Patek Philippe 5164 but only Apr 14, 2026

Laurent Ferrier’s Sport Traveller is Ready for Takeoff

Laurent Ferrier’s Sport Traveller is a meaningful addition to its collection of sport watches. While the brand’s convenient push-button dual-time complication is not new, it has never been available in the go-anywhere, do-anything format of the Sport line - where it arguably makes the most sense. It’s also the first time this travel complication has been paired with one of the brand’s lever escapement movements, a change that should provide the resilience against shocks that one expects from a sport watch. Initial thoughts The sport has proven to be one of Laurent Ferrier’s most popular watches, introducing the brand to a wider audience by combining sports watch ruggedness with the high-horology independent watchmaking that the brand has become famous for. In this sense, the Sport Traveller is similar in philosophy to other luxury sport watches. That said, few manage to elevate the concept quite as high as Laurent Ferrier. The A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus and F.P. Journe Octa Sport Titanium are natural peers, as is the Patek Philippe 5164, but only the latter offers a travel time complication. The Sport Traveller is made from grade 5 titanium for a featherweight wrist presence, and debuts in what is likely to be a popular grey-on-grey colourway. Even the Sport Traveller dial text is grey, blending in with the dial to help keep the clutter to a minimum. The cal. LF275.01 continues the monochromatic look with grey-coated bridges and a solid platinum oscillating wei...

Introducing: Three New Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grand Complications Fratello
Vacheron Constantin s […] Visit Introducing Apr 14, 2026

Introducing: Three New Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grand Complications

Just as Stevie Wonder is the musician’s musician, Jaeger-LeCoultre is the watchmaker’s watchmaker. But what is meant by this? Well, for starters, Jaeger-LeCoultre is a prolific movement manufacturer that supplies other high-end brands. Famously, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ultra-thin caliber 920 powered the big three ’70s sports watches - Patek Philippe’s Nautilus, AP’s Royal Oak, and Vacheron Constantin’s […] Visit Introducing: Three New Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grand Complications to read the full article.

SJX Podcast: Rolex Marks Oyster Centenary with Daytona and Day-Date SJX Watches
Rolex Marks Oyster Centenary Apr 14, 2026

SJX Podcast: Rolex Marks Oyster Centenary with Daytona and Day-Date

Episode 36 of the SJX Podcast comes straight from Watches & Wonders 2026. As ever, all eyes are focused on Rolex during the first hour of the event. SJX and Brandon unpack the brand’s new models, which feature new materials and a novel industrial approach to enamel dial production. We’ll be back soon with more live coverage of the industry’s biggest event. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

Cartier’s Santos-Dumont Gains a Fine Mesh-Link Bracelet SJX Watches
Cartier s Santos-Dumont Gains Apr 13, 2026

Cartier’s Santos-Dumont Gains a Fine Mesh-Link Bracelet

Cartier’s debuts at Watches & Wonders 2026 include notable crowd pleasers, with a standout being the Santos-Dumont LM with a mesh-link bracelet in matching precious metal. Inspired by watch bracelets of the 1920s, the new bracelet is 15 links across with each link just 1.15 mm high, making it supple and ergonomic. Very much catering to fad for such bracelets, it is also removable and sports a double-folding clasp. The new Santos-Dumont models themselves are cosmetic variations of the existing model, with the most unusual being the yellow gold version with a dial of obsidian, which is volanic glass. Initial thoughts The new Santos-Dumont pairs the familiar square watch with an appropriately retro mesh-link bracelet that fits the design perfectly. Like the Les Opus trio, this Santos-Dumont trio isn’t imaginative or novel, but it is executed well and has tactile appeal. Both the clasp and flush-fit end links that continue the link pattern are a pleasing touch. In some ways the bracelet is perhaps more fitting for the model given its history as an aviator’s watch, although the Santos-Dumont now is very much a dress watch in the modern sense of the term. The commercial success of 2023’s Tank Normale with a bracelet probably helped convince Cartier that such bracelets are a winner, despite the substantial cost of a precious metal bracelet today. That said, the new Santos-Dumont on a bracelet is pricey but not outrageously so. It starts at €44,400 in yellow gold and ris...

Cartier Privé Les Opus is a Trio of Greatest Hits SJX Watches
Cartier Privé Les Opus Apr 13, 2026

Cartier Privé Les Opus is a Trio of Greatest Hits

Cartier’s crowd favourite Privé line is now 10 years old and the jeweller is returning to its greatest hits for the occasion with two offerings, the first being the flagship Cartier Privé Les Opus. “Opus” is a trio of watches, all in platinum, each being of the most desirable models in the Privé collection – Tank Normale, Tortue Chronographe Monopoussoir, and Crash Squelette. Both the Tank Normale and Tortue Monopoussoir are variants of earlier models, retaining the same case and movement as before, but now with silvered dials featuring red markings. The Crash skeleton, on the other hand, is a new model powered by a new calibre, the 1967 MC, a hand-wind movement with hand hammered bridges. The Crash skeleton is limited to 150 pieces, while the other two models are regular production The second anniversary trio is Cartier Privé La Collection, yet another trio of greatest hits, but in yellow gold and not limited edition, which we’ll detail in another story. Cartier Privé La Collection made up of the Tank Cintree, Tank Normale, and Cloche Initial thoughts It is now a given that Cartier will mine its rich archive for new launches and Les Opus is exactly that. Given the strength of Cartier’s iconic designs, all three watches in the collection are appealing, with the Crash being a little more novel than its siblings in the line-up thanks to its skeleton movement. None of the three watches win any awards for imagination or innovation, but that is arguably besides...

Introducing – Three Patek Philippe Nautilus 50th Anniversary Limited Wristwatches… And a Nautilus Pocket Watch Monochrome
Patek Philippe Nautilus 50th Anniversary Limited Apr 13, 2026

Introducing – Three Patek Philippe Nautilus 50th Anniversary Limited Wristwatches… And a Nautilus Pocket Watch

This year, Patek Philippe celebrates the 50th anniversary of a cult watch, the Nautilus. As expected, we are getting some celebratory limited editions. The 30th anniversary of the collection saw the introduction of the references 5711, 5712 Moon and 5980 Chronograph, with what was at the time a true re-launch of the Nautilus (6 references […]

Introducing: Grand Seiko’s 38mm 62GS SBGH376 “Sakura-Wakaba” And 37mm Evolution 9 SLGB006 “Ice Forest At Dawn” Fratello
Grand Seiko s 38mm 62GS SBGH376 Apr 13, 2026

Introducing: Grand Seiko’s 38mm 62GS SBGH376 “Sakura-Wakaba” And 37mm Evolution 9 SLGB006 “Ice Forest At Dawn”

The only sense of nature you can experience when spending days on end in Geneva’s Palexpo event center is by handling Grand Seiko novelties. Yes, we sometimes joke about the plethora of nature-inspired dial designs that the Japanese brand releases. Still, they’re most welcome during Watches and Wonders. After a couple of steamy sessions in […] Visit Introducing: Grand Seiko’s 38mm 62GS SBGH376 “Sakura-Wakaba” And 37mm Evolution 9 SLGB006 “Ice Forest At Dawn” to read the full article.

Zenith Expands G.F.J. Caliber 135 Collection SJX Watches
Zenith Expands G.F.J Caliber 135 Apr 13, 2026

Zenith Expands G.F.J. Caliber 135 Collection

After introducing the G.F.J. Caliber 135 last year, Zenith has expanded the line with two new models and created a new collection in the process. Following closely in the footsteps of the platinum debut model, the new additions are dressed in 18k yellow gold and tantalum, with richly furnished natural stone dials. The cal. 135 returns - now finished in a more traditional manner - boasting impressive performance that does justice to the movement’s enviable competition record. Initial thoughts The return of the legendary cal. 135 was something I always hoped I’d see, but never thought I would. But in a moment akin to Omega’s recreation of the famed cal. 321 chronograph, Zenith brought back one of the most successful observatory calibres in history. The movement made its return last year in grand style to mark the brand’s 160th anniversary, well built but priced well above Zenith’s typical domain. The style was also an acquired taste, with a hand-guilloche chapter ring, with a matching pattern machined into the movement bridges. The dial treatment was one thing, but the finishing of the movement arguably dulled what could have been an ascendant moment. For 2026, two new dial configurations - bloodstone and onyx - join what can now be called an official collection, both equally as luxe as the model’s blue debut. Fortunately, when it comes to the cal. 135, Zenith left the brick-style bridge finishing behind, opting for more ordinary - but more attractive ...

Vacheron Constantin’s Ultra-Thin Overseas Returns SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin s Ultra-Thin Overseas Returns Apr 13, 2026

Vacheron Constantin’s Ultra-Thin Overseas Returns

Following a belter of an anniversary year during which the brand launched, among other things, the world’s most complicated wristwatch and a quarter-ton astronomical clock, Vacheron Constantin (VC) kicks off Watches & Wonders with something more low-profile, both literally and figuratively - the Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin. While small in stature at just 7.35 mm thick, it’s what’s inside the counts - namely, an all-new micro-rotor calibre with 80 hours of power reserve and seemingly limitless potential. Initial thoughts The new Overseas Ultra-Thin is little different from the model that preceded it, though the ref. 2000V remained rare enough throughout its production run that the format still feels fresh. It also helps that despite the visual similarity, the ref. 2500V is a completely new watch inside and out, catapulting a model that arguably lagged behind its one obvious competitor into instant parity. The ref. 2500V is best understood from the inside out. Audemars Piguet replaced the well-loved historical cal. 2121 with its more modern cal. 7121 in 2022, and now it’s VC’s turn, being the last of the big three purveyors of mass-market fine watchmaking to replace its aging Jaeger-LeCoultre cal. 920-based movements with an in-house alternative. The reluctance to replace this venerable platform is understandable. What VC calls the cal. 1120 is one of the last movements of its generation still in use, and carries a historical weight missing from many moder...

Watches & Wonders: Hands-On with IWC’s Pilot Venturer Vertical Drive, a New Kind of Space Watch Worn & Wound
IWC s Pilot Venturer Vertical Apr 13, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Hands-On with IWC’s Pilot Venturer Vertical Drive, a New Kind of Space Watch

Space is having a huge moment right now, and if you’re at all like me, you’ve been transported to a time in your youth when you were soaking up anything space exploration related as much as the sun. Well, IWC is going to keep space at the forefront of everyone’s mind here at Watches & Wonders as they’ve just released their Pilot’s Venturer Vertical Drive, their first watch engineered and certified for spaceflight.  I actually got to see this watch back in February while I was out in Los Angeles with IWC at Vast’s headquarters. Vast is the company building what is set to become the first commercial space station, Haven-1. And that context matters, because this isn’t just a “space-inspired” watch. The Venturer Vertical Drive was designed for actual use in orbit, and it’s already been certified for flight in partnership with Vast.  Historically, space watches have basically just been modified aviation watches, but IWC took a different approach here. Instead of adapting something that already existed, they started from a much simpler question: what does a watch actually need to do in space? The answer led to a few decisions that feel genuinely new, starting with the most obvious one - there’s no crown. From an outsider’s perspective, this feels almost like a flex (and it kinda is). But the way that IWC CEO Chris Grainger-Herr explained it during our live presentation was that in a zero-gravity environment, as astronauts are moving through tight spac...

TAG Heuer Comes Out Swinging With New Monaco Chronographs Fratello
TAG Heuer Comes Out Swinging Apr 13, 2026

TAG Heuer Comes Out Swinging With New Monaco Chronographs

For Watches and Wonders 2026, it’s clear that TAG Heuer has come out with a hot hand. The Monaco Chronograph is the subject of the brand’s attention, and wow, what a result! Today, we’ll provide an overview of five new models spanning two collections. From my perspective, these are the most significant updates in ages, […] Visit TAG Heuer Comes Out Swinging With New Monaco Chronographs to read the full article.