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The 1990 Lange Revival A. Lange & Söhne

A. Lange & Söhne revived 7 December 1990, exactly 145 years after the 1845 founding. Walter Lange + Günter Blümlein; 1994 launch of Lange 1, Saxonia, Arkade, Tourbillon Pour le Mérite.

Watches & Wonders: Bulgari Launches an Octo Finissimo in 37mm Worn & Wound
Bulgari Launches Apr 13, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Bulgari Launches an Octo Finissimo in 37mm

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo is a certifiably unique watch that you can identify on someone’s wrist from across a room. Part of this is because of its exotic integrated design, and the other part is that they are kind of huge, despite being very thin. That contrast has always been part of the appeal, but also part of the problem. For years, the Octo Finissimo has represented an avant-garde take on modern watch design. Thin, minimal, architectural, and kind of brutal, it exists as a distant relative of a Genta-era idea, but pushed into something more experimental. It has also built its reputation on technical achievement, frequently contending for the world’s thinnest watch, and holding that title more than once over the last decade. But this year, Bulgari isn’t focused on thinness. Instead, they’ve turned their attention to something far more practical: wearability. For the first time since the line launched in 2014, Bulgari has introduced a smaller “consumer” model, bringing the Octo Finissimo down to 37mm. On paper, that might not sound like much. In practice, it changes everything. The standard 40mm models were always a bit deceptive. While 40mm is not particularly large for a round watch, the Octo Finissimo is anything but round. These watches are essentially flat squares with wide integrated lugs, creating a large corner-to-corner span and a cuff-like presence on the wrist. The result is a watch that wears significantly larger than its width suggests. It’s...

Watches & Wonders: Grand Seiko Finally Gives Us a Medium Sized Dive Watch, and it Includes a Spring Drive Powered U.F.A. Movement Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Finally Gives Us Apr 13, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Grand Seiko Finally Gives Us a Medium Sized Dive Watch, and it Includes a Spring Drive Powered U.F.A. Movement

If you were take a poll of Grand Seiko enthusiasts and collectors to ask them what they thought was missing from the brand’s catalog, I have a feeling a significant portion of respondents would tell you the same thing: a great dive watch. Grand Seiko has, of course, been making divers for years, and a lot of them have been objectively outstanding and well liked by certain pockets of the Grand Seiko community. But they’ve never had a diver that’s really caught fire in the way that something like the Snowflake has – there’s no icon in their dive watch range. I think most would agree that this is at least in part because to this point the brand’s dive watches have always been on the chunky side, and not really a viable competitor to the Submariners and Seamasters of the world in terms of their wearability.  Grand Seiko seeks to change that at Watches & Wonders this year, with the rather ambitious release of the new Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Diver. This new 40.8mm High-Intensity Titanium dive watch uses a new Spring Drive movement featuring the same tech as last year’s 9RB2 Spring Drive caliber, which boasts an accuracy rate of plus or minus 20 seconds per year.  There are really two notable things about this watch. First, there’s the movement, Caliber 9RB1, which has the same U.F.A (Ultra Fine Accuracy) designation as the 9RB2 introduced last year. The 20 second annual accuracy rate is, according to Grand Seiko, the most accurate wristwatch movement powe...

Just When I Thought It Couldn’t Get Better: Cartier Privé Tank Normale, Tortue, And Crash Squelette Fratello
Cartier Privé Tank Normale Tortue Apr 13, 2026

Just When I Thought It Couldn’t Get Better: Cartier Privé Tank Normale, Tortue, And Crash Squelette

With this year’s Cartier Privé release, the brand marks the 10th yearly Privé drop by revisiting three of its most iconic shapes. The Tank Normale, Tortue Chronographe Monopoussoir, and Crash Squelette return in a platinum execution with burgundy accents. In 2024, I spent time with the Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph and came away genuinely impressed. That […] Visit Just When I Thought It Couldn’t Get Better: Cartier Privé Tank Normale, Tortue, And Crash Squelette to read the full article.

Aaron Becsei Rebrands, Launches Becsei J.Z.A. SJX Watches
Apr 13, 2026

Aaron Becsei Rebrands, Launches Becsei J.Z.A.

Hungarian independent watchmaker Aaron Becsei, long known for his expert craftsmanship and flamboyant designs, has rebranded and launched the Becsei J.Z.A., a finely made time-only watch with a more digestible design that should broaden his reach with contemporary collectors. Like Mr Becsei’s earlier work, the J.Z.A. is substantially handmade and will be produced in limited numbers - eight pieces, to be specific. Initial thoughts Aaron Bescei is an independent watchmaker of the old school - a craftsman with the bench experience to produce a watch from scratch. This aspect of his craft is noteworthy in a segment crowded with engineers and constructors that typically farm out finishing and assembly. He’s also been around awhile, having been granted admittance to the AHCI in 2009, though for more than a decade he’s traded under the phonetic pronunciation of his name, Bexei. After a relatively quiet period, the third-generation Hungarian independent watchmaker returns with a rebranded business and a new round watch that manages to stand out despite its now-common format. Mr Bescsei’s previous watches were extravagantly finished with impressively wide, rounded bevels and other lovely details. In many ways, he was a decade ahead of the demand for such watches, but his designs were often maximalist and baroque. His earlier watches, the Dignitas, in particular, featured a massive rectangular case and engraved scrollwork - an aesthetic in tension with contemporary tas...

Gagà Laboratorio’s New Aqualab Pulls Off A Tricky Design Brief Fratello
Apr 13, 2026

Gagà Laboratorio’s New Aqualab Pulls Off A Tricky Design Brief

When I heard Gagà Laboratorio was launching its first dive watch, the Aqualab, I was skeptical. The brand’s distinct identity made me question how it would translate into a sportier, tool-oriented direction. That’s a testament to the uniqueness of its design language, not a criticism of its existing watches. The Labormatic, for example, always struck […] Visit Gagà Laboratorio’s New Aqualab Pulls Off A Tricky Design Brief to read the full article.

Cool blues and feather light, Czapek & Cie releases three new Antartique models in full titanium and blue dials Time+Tide
Czapek & Cie releases three Apr 12, 2026

Cool blues and feather light, Czapek & Cie releases three new Antartique models in full titanium and blue dials

Czapek & Cie releases a trio of Antarctique models with grade 5 titanium cases and bracelets, and Cosmic Blue dials The Dark Sector and Révélation models are available in both 40.5mm and 38.5mm, and the Tourbillon model is available in 40.5mm. Each model features Cosmic Blue as the main dial colour, with each model appearing … ContinuedThe post Cool blues and feather light, Czapek & Cie releases three new Antartique models in full titanium and blue dials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Sylvain Pinaud Returns with 30-Second Tourbillon SJX Watches
Apr 12, 2026

Sylvain Pinaud Returns with 30-Second Tourbillon

With wind in his sails following the successful Origine series, independent watchmaker Sylvain Pinaud returns with his most ambitious project yet, the succinctly named Tourbillon. The watch looks and feels a lot like its time-only predecessor, but the movement is in fact completely different, with twin mainspring barrels and a fast-rotating 30-second tourbillon. The Tourbillon in platinum with a white agate dial. Initial thoughts Appetite remains strong for high-end time-only watches, but the leading independents are increasingly leaving simplicity behind and treating their collectors to additional complications. Mr Pinaud’s Tourbillon exemplifies this shift. Despite the greater complexity of its movement, the Tourbillon is no larger than the simpler Origine. In fact, it’s about 1 mm smaller in diameter. That’s impressive considering it fits an extra mainspring barrel and adds a zero-reset seconds functionality to its namesake tourbillon. This latter functionality - specifically its heart cam - is on full display through an opening in the running seconds sub-dial at nine o’clock. But its the 30-second tourbillon that gives the watch its name, and which warrants special scrutiny. Fast-rotating tourbillons - which rotate more quickly than once per minute - are quite rare. They require more energy and greater care in assembly, since they almost invariably use lighter components. In the case of the Tourbillon, the slender three-armed cage is made of titanium, r...

Singer’s DualTrack is its First Twin Time Zone GMT SJX Watches
Rolex GMT-Master II Apr 12, 2026

Singer’s DualTrack is its First Twin Time Zone GMT

Having debuted its first proprietary movement inside the Caballero last year, Singer Reimagined is building on the calibre by adding a second time zone. The DualTrack is powered by the same cleverly constructed movement, a manual wind with an impressive six day power reserve, but gains a 24-hour ring for a GMT function. The watch adopts the cushion-shaped case that’s the brand signature, while the dial similarly preserve the aesthetic found on the brand’s trademark central chronographs, but with a 24-hour ring around the dial. Because the second time zone is an add-on over the calibre, the 24-scale ring is independently adjustable, rather than the local hour hand, making this “caller” GMT rather than a true “traveller” GMT. Initial thoughts I like the Singer aesthetic so this design is appealing, and it implements the dual time zone function logically and legibly. The in-house movement with a long power reserve is also a plus, especially since it has a novel four-barrel construction. The only downside here is the “caller” type second time zone function. A “true” GMT with an independent local hour hand, as found on the Rolex GMT-Master II, is the most convenient format, since it requires fewest steps when setting the time while travelling, but this requires a built-from-the-ground-up calibre. All things considered, that can be forgiven since the DualTrack is an attractive proposition overall. Like last year’s Caballero, the DualTrack is a useful watch ...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Citizen Tsuyosa 37 Vs. Casio Edifice EFK-110 Fratello
Citizen Tsuyosa 37 Vs Casio Apr 12, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: Citizen Tsuyosa 37 Vs. Casio Edifice EFK-110

It’s Sunday morning, which means it’s time for another installment of Sunday Morning Showdown. It is the last showdown before Watches and Wonders 2026 starts on Tuesday. During the event, we will see lots of new watches that will certainly return in our Sunday Morning Showdown series. For this week, though, we decided to stage […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Citizen Tsuyosa 37 Vs. Casio Edifice EFK-110 to read the full article.

New releases from Ressence, M.A.D. Editions, Rexhep Rexhepi and more Time+Tide
Ressence M.A.D Editions Rexhep Rexhepi Apr 11, 2026

New releases from Ressence, M.A.D. Editions, Rexhep Rexhepi and more

This has been an incredible week for independent watchmaking. Ressence has announced its first-ever in-house movement, M.A.D. is presenting two new editions for those who want to own a piece of MB&F; engineering without the price tag, and Rexhep Rexhepi has unveiled a new project. Moments like this don’t come around often, and when they … ContinuedThe post New releases from Ressence, M.A.D. Editions, Rexhep Rexhepi and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.