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Results for Co-Axial vs Swiss Lever Escapement

6,491 articles · 78 videos found · page 109 of 219

Hands-On: Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 36mm - The Return Of A Vintage Military Legend Hodinkee
Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 36mm May 29, 2026

Hands-On: Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 36mm - The Return Of A Vintage Military Legend

As the United States of America celebrates 250 years since the signing of the Declaration of Independence this year, reflecting on two and a half centuries of history, Hamilton is also looking back on its past. Instead of the 1770s, however, the Swiss-based watch brand has drawn inspiration from the 1970s and has announced the release of the Khaki Field Mechanical 36mm, a virtually 1:1 recreation of the famed 36mm Hamilton FAPD-5101 Type 1 created as a navigator's watch for the U.S. Air Force in the 1970s. The Hamilton Boutique in Lancaster, PA - formerly the Bowman Technical School for watchmakers. The FAPD-5101 Type 1 variant was produced in September of 1970 and was intended for use by U.S. Air Force personnel during the Vietnam War as a navigator's watch. While Hamilton also produced many other watches for the U.S. Military throughout the 20th Century, this particular piece was unique in that it was slightly larger and therefore more legible than its contemporaries. Due to its modern proportions and rarity, it remains highly prized among vintage watch collectors today. Hamilton's American Roots The launch of the watch was celebrated in Hamilton's ancestral home of Lancaster, Pennsylvania, just ahead of Memorial Day Weekend. Hamilton was founded in 1892 in Lancaster, where a budding watch industry had been struggling for several years to get off the ground. Seeing the need and potential for high-quality watches in the booming railroad industry, a consortium of local ent...

Zenith Introduces The Chronomaster Revival Liberty II Fratello
Zenith Introduces May 29, 2026

Zenith Introduces The Chronomaster Revival Liberty II

Zenith marks the 250th anniversary of the United States with the release of the Chronomaster Revival Liberty II. This launch follows the original North American exclusive from several years ago. The new model strengthens the historical link between the Swiss manufacture and American industrial history. Zenith founder Georges Favre-Jacot famously visited the United States in […] Visit Zenith Introduces The Chronomaster Revival Liberty II to read the full article.

Formex Enters The Arena Of Integrated-Bracelet Watches With Its Aria Manufacture Chronometer Fratello
Formex Enters May 29, 2026

Formex Enters The Arena Of Integrated-Bracelet Watches With Its Aria Manufacture Chronometer

As a small brand, Formex has consistently pushed the boundaries of affordable watchmaking. By using new materials, integrating innovations, and simply creating a great, varied collection of watches, the young Swiss brand has stood out in recent years. With the new Aria Manufacture Chronometer, Formex unveils a new milestone for the company. It marks a […] Visit Formex Enters The Arena Of Integrated-Bracelet Watches With Its Aria Manufacture Chronometer to read the full article.

Visiting Roventa-Henex SJX Watches
Longines May 28, 2026

Visiting Roventa-Henex

Jérôme Biard is good at keeping secrets. As chief executive of Roventa-Henex (Roventa), he needs to be. The historic manufacture in the sleepy Swiss village of Tavannes builds watches for dozens of watch brands — some are internet-native ‘micro-brands’ while others are historic names with 19th-century roots. Naturally, few of the firm’s customers choose to reveal this arrangement, preferring the unstated implication of in-house expertise. We went inside this secretive manufacture to see a different side of the Swiss watch industry. Roventa-Henex CEO Jérôme Biard in his office in Tavannes. A short history of Roventa-Henex To better understand Roventa, it’s worth examining the history of watchmaking in Tavannes, a small village in the canton of Bern just 16 km from Biel/Bienne. Watchmaking came to Tavannes relatively late — in the 1860s — nearly two centuries after the first Swiss watches were made. Despite its late start, Tavannes quickly became a major centre of industrial watchmaking in the 1890s when Henri Sandoz — with the backing of two prominent families from La Chaux-de-Fonds — opened an industrialised factory based on the American model of production, complete with the latest American machine tools. By 1905, Tavannes Watch Co.’s factory employed more than 600 workers, making it Switzerland’s third-largest watch factory after Longines and Omega. By 1914 its staff had doubled, and the factory was producing more than 3,000 watches per day. Tav...

Albishorn Introduces the New Type X-Graph Worn & Wound
Ming new features May 28, 2026

Albishorn Introduces the New Type X-Graph

Swiss brand Albishorn is known for their rather daring mission of recreating vintage watches that never existed; a goal that seems confusing until you see their wide swathe of “imaginary vintage” offerings, each of which draws from iconic timepieces of the past while forging their own new identities. It’s an exercise in parallel history with an added touch of impossibility, and it’s what makes Albishorn watches a category of their own. Carrying on that hypothetical tradition is the new Type X-Graph, which borrows elements from the legendary Type 20 design, while adding features that were simply not possible in the era that Type 20 pieces were being built.  Rather than taking a Type 20 silhouette and cramming new features in, Albishorn has taken to imagining what a predecessor “Type 10” may have looked like instead. Calling it a “missing link” in the history of the Type 20, the Type X-Graph is, of course, a pilot chronograph, with stylings from the late 1940s to pre-date the Type 20’s 1950s introduction. A monopusher military chronograph design, the Type X-Graph measures in at 39mm (a first hint of the modern innovations that remind us that it’s of an imagined history) in case diameter, and 20mm in case thickness. The lug width is a democratic 20mm, with the final lug-to-lug measurement coming in at a wearable 47.7mm, and kept slim by the 12mm thickness. But that’s just the boring stuff; the visuals and functionality of the X-Graph are what make it st...

Dennison x Collectability’s Second Collab Gives Us Four Funky Twists on Its Inaugural Offering Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore May 27, 2026

Dennison x Collectability’s Second Collab Gives Us Four Funky Twists on Its Inaugural Offering

While some brands regularly take the collaborative approach, this hasn’t been the case for Dennison. Its first co-designed model came to us just about a year ago when the Maison first teamed up with Collectability, the brainchild of Patek Philippe expert and horological icon John Reardon. The pair’s initial offering achieved an impressive balance of design language. It combined some clear inspiration from Patek’s Ellipse as well as some of the brand’s lesser-known models with elements of the collection that revived Dennison in the modern era – the A.L.D. – developed by acclaimed watch designer Emmanuel Gueit, whose resume includes the Rolex 1908, Harry Winston Z1, and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore. The duo has just spun up its second collaboration, available for pre-order for one week only, beginning today through June 3. If you didn’t immediately click over to place an order, and you’re still with me, let’s unpack these latest additions. The new Oblique collection certainly has echoes of the original co-design but with a little bit more edge. The pair’s inaugural offering was relatively classic and timeless whereas the latest interpretations are a bit more modern and sculptural. This time, Dennison and Collectability give us two variations: the bold Enigma dial and the more sober Vector dial. In both iterations, the brands lean further into the funky design language that began emerging in the 1960s with asymmetry being a focus. Here, the familiar ...

The Business of Watches Podcast: Angelus and Arnold & Son Chief Executive Officer Pascal Béchu Hodinkee
Arnold & Son Chief Executive Officer Pascal May 27, 2026

The Business of Watches Podcast: Angelus and Arnold & Son Chief Executive Officer Pascal Béchu

This week on The Business of Watches, we're in La Chaux-de-Fonds to speak to Pascal Béchu, who heads not one, but two Swiss watchmaking brands, Angelus and Arnold & Son.  Pascal Béchu, the CEO of Angelus and Arnold & Son They're both specialized, low-production, high-horology watchmakers, with very different back stories. While Angelus is a historic Swiss brand known for its repeaters, chronographs, and long power reserve movements, Arnold & Son celebrates the work and innovation of one of history's most important (British) watchmakers, John Arnold. While quite different in their product and strategies, the two brands share the same parent company in Japan's Citizen Group, and both work closely with movement maker La Joux-Perret, with whom they share manufacturing and office space in La Chaux-de-Fonds.  Pascal Béchu is in charge of both marques. He talks about the history and the future for both brands, some recent successes in the form of celebrity clients for Arnold & Son, and a GPHG prize for Angelus. He also discusses prices and the impact the strong Swiss franc and the soaring price of precious metals are having on corporate strategy and planning.  And a quick bit of housekeeping, this conversation was recorded just before Watches & Wonders and the new novelties launched by both brands, including the Angelus 'Tinkler' quarter repeater, so these new watches are not discussed on the podcast.  But first, we round up the latest business news with the most recent ...

Happenings: The Horological Society Of New York To Hold Classes In St. Louis Hodinkee
May 27, 2026

Happenings: The Horological Society Of New York To Hold Classes In St. Louis

The Horological Society of New York's award-winning classes are on the road again! HSNY is visiting St. Louis on July 18 and 19, 2026, hosted by RedBar St. Louis. At HSNY's Horological Education classes, students discover what actually makes a watch tick under the guidance of HSNY's staff of professional watchmakers. Students work on a mechanical watch movement, studying the gear train, winding and setting mechanisms, and escapement. The weekend half-day classes cover everything taught during the individual evening classes held in New York. Enrollment is now open for the classes, and we look forward to seeing you there! HODINKEE is a sponsor of the Horological Society of New York.

First Look - Louis Erard’s Integrated Sports Watch, the 2340, now in Mauve and Forest Monochrome
Louis Erard s Integrated Sports Watch May 26, 2026

First Look - Louis Erard’s Integrated Sports Watch, the 2340, now in Mauve and Forest

Last year, Louis Erard entered the integrated sports watch segment with the 2340 collection, a sharply designed and relatively accessible proposition built in titanium and steel, with a nicely executed integrated bracelet. Named after the postal code of Le Noirmont, the brand’s home in the Swiss Jura, the 2340 marked a departure from the regulator […]

The Parivas Exo.1 and the Rise of Additive Manufacturing in Watchmaking Worn & Wound
Holthinrichs May 25, 2026

The Parivas Exo.1 and the Rise of Additive Manufacturing in Watchmaking

Last year at the Windup Watch Fair in New York City I was approached by Jared Woods and Mickey Brown, the co-founders of Parivas, a brand that I had not heard of until he walked up to me with his business card in hand. At the time, Parivas hadn’t really launched officially. They handed me a rough prototype of a 3D printed watch and loosely explained the concept behind the brand, which approaches watch design through the perspective of engineering, making use of the most cutting edge additive manufacturing technologies. It seemed like a cool, ambitious project. There are lots of cool, ambitious projects, many of them led by talented watch industry outsiders, and I’ve found that sometimes there’s an inverse relationship between the coolness and level of ambition and the ultimate success rate. Now Parivas is here in a much more official capacity, with the launch of the Exo.1, a $7,500 3D printed design object with an intricate lattice frame and a trademarked finishing technique of the brand’s own invention. It comes at a time when 3D printed watches are having a bit of a moment. Holthinrichs and Apiar have released notable watches with 3D printed cases, and Ming manufactures an incredible bracelet that might be the single most impressive 3D printed watch object I’ve handled. The technology is clearly improving and it seems like enthusiasts are more receptive to these ideas than they ever have been. The one thing all of these brands have in common is that they claim ...

Hands-on - The Marco Lang Seven Spheres, a 7-Axis Tourbillon Built with Pure Watchmaking Idealism Monochrome
Lang & Heyne has always practised watchmaking May 22, 2026

Hands-on - The Marco Lang Seven Spheres, a 7-Axis Tourbillon Built with Pure Watchmaking Idealism

Marco Lang, known to many as co-founder of Lang & Heyne, has always practised watchmaking with a deeply personal perspective. Since leaving the Dresden-based manufacture and launching his own independent path, his work has become even more intimate and experimental, and the Seven Spheres is the best expression of his creative freedom so far. The […]

Richemont Financial Results Show U.S. Market Resilience As Middle East Sales Hit By War Hodinkee
Jaeger-LeCoultre May 22, 2026

Richemont Financial Results Show U.S. Market Resilience As Middle East Sales Hit By War

Richemont's annual financial results and executive commentary showed continued strength in the U.S. market for the Swiss luxury conglomerate's watches and jewelry despite rising consumer prices and economic fallout from the war with Iran. At the same time, sales in the Middle East, particularly the United Arab Emirates have declined since the conflict began in late February. Richemont Chairman Johann Rupert. "It is, at times, truly surreal, but the US economy, the metrics are still looking better than many other economies," Johann Rupert, Richemont's chairman, said on a call with media following the release of the company's annual financial results. Richemont said sales in the Americas rose 17% from the year before and increased by double digits in both watches and jewelry at constant exchange rates during the company's fiscal year ended in March. Richemont, which owns brands including Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and A. Lange & Söhne,  said sales in the region increased by 18% in the fourth quarter of its fiscal year compared to the same period a year earlier. "Looking ⁠ahead, uncertainty is likely to persist, not least in relation to developments in the Middle East," Rupert said. While U.S. sales stayed resilient, Richemont brands selling in the United Arab Emirates, particularly in Dubai, suffered declining sales and foot traffic in stores because of the war. While Abu Dhabi has shown signs of recovery, "in Dubai, they are more reserved, and y...

Introducing: The Mermont La Parfaite Considers The Simple Art Of Time Telling In Elevated Form (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Breguet style numerals While May 20, 2026

Introducing: The Mermont La Parfaite Considers The Simple Art Of Time Telling In Elevated Form (Live Pics)

What We Know If our ability to value our precious time is a gift, then the simplicity of the Mermont La Parfaite reminds us to slow down and savor it. The debut public model from the new Swiss brand is a study in elevated minimalism. A solo hour hand, polished and hand-finished by master watchmaker Nicolas Delaloye, is the centerpiece.  Sculpted and curved with a heart or spade-shaped cutout, the heat-treated, single stainless steel hand has been hand-finished and sits high enough from the dial that it can be observed from multiple angles. It circles the slanted minute track dial once every twelve hours, making precise reading of the time more of a loose, approximate estimate than an exact by-the-second measurement. That's despite the fact that the hand-wound movement is regulated by Delaloye to high accuracy. And that's the point. The pared-down time telling demands one take stock and consider the few, but highly considered design choices from the brand, founded by Swiss-based collector and watch expert Sebastien Bey-Haut, that is produced and assembled in Geneva at Delaloye's facilities. The color-shifting blue dial features a colimaçon sunburst finish, achieved with colored pigments mixed with Zapon varnish. And indeed, seen in person, the colors of the dial can change dramatically depending on the light, from a bright blue to inky navy and even dark purple. The classic slanted minute track is surrounded by printed Breguet-style numerals. While the 'Mermont' brand lo...

“Quartz” Is No Longer A Dirty Word - All Is Forgiven, And It’s Time To Embrace The Battery Or The Solar Cell Fratello
Seiko set something May 20, 2026

“Quartz” Is No Longer A Dirty Word - All Is Forgiven, And It’s Time To Embrace The Battery Or The Solar Cell

When something happened way over half a century ago, it is now time to forgive and embrace. Not to forgive and forget, mind you, but forgive and embrace. With the introduction of the Astron in 1969, Seiko set something in motion that shook the traditional Swiss watch industry to its core. Its existence was in […] Visit “Quartz” Is No Longer A Dirty Word — All Is Forgiven, And It’s Time To Embrace The Battery Or The Solar Cell to read the full article.

SJX Podcast: A Diamond in the Rough? SJX Watches
Chanel s watch business into May 18, 2026

SJX Podcast: A Diamond in the Rough?

Tiffany & Co. is one of the only major jewellers without a significant watchmaking programme. Episode 41 of the SJX Podcast examines the brand’s past, present, and future under the leadership of Nicolas Beau, who is credited with building Chanel’s watch business into what it is today. When it comes to watches, Tiffany & Co. is potentially a diamond in the rough — it’s a uniquely American luxury brand with enviable cultural recognition. The brand also has a global boutique network giving it immediate access to all major markets, which could accelerate its trajectory with the right product mix. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

Photo Report: Watch Spotting At The 152nd Kentucky Derby Hodinkee
Longines has been May 14, 2026

Photo Report: Watch Spotting At The 152nd Kentucky Derby

Each spring for the last 152 years, 20 of the fastest horses in the country line up to run at legendary Churchill Downs racetrack in Louisville, Kentucky. In the two minutes that follow, the world holds its breath, watching as history unfolds. For the past 15 years, Swiss watchmaker Longines has been the official timekeeper of the Kentucky Derby and, in 2013, became the title sponsor of the Kentucky Oaks, which takes place the day before. It's a weekend of splendor that has transcended the equestrian world, becoming the social event of the season. Longines Spirit Pilot Flyback Chronograph and Primaluna Moonphase. Longines' legacy in the equestrian world predates the derby itself, with the brand producing pocket watches and chronographs featuring equestrian motifs as early as 1869. Their chronographs were later utilized by racecourses towards the end of the 1800s. From there, Longines has been involved in nearly every aspect of competitive horsemanship throughout the 20th and now into the 21st century, from flat racing to Show Jumping, Dressage, and Eventing, serving as the official timekeeper and sponsor of some of the most prestigious competitions in the world. Georgia Benjamin's (@Georgiabenj) watch dial themed hat for the Kentucky Oaks. The Kentucky Derby, which this year boasted its highest viewership in history with nearly 20 million viewers, has been held at the historic Churchill Downs racetrack since its inception. There have been many historic races over the past ...

SJX Podcast: Rexhep Rexhepi’s Vision SJX Watches
Rexhep Rexhepi s Vision May 11, 2026

SJX Podcast: Rexhep Rexhepi’s Vision

For the 40th episode of the SJX Podcast, we sat down with Rexhep Rexhepi in Geneva to learn more about his latest watch — the RRCHF Chronograph Flyback. Rexhep explains why he wanted to make a chronograph, and how the self-imposed constraint of a symmetrical layout resulted in a more refined overall construction. He also discusses the RRCHF’s in-house escapement, and the trade-offs that were considered in its development. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

Introducing: The Unexpected Baltic × SpaceOne Seconde Majeure Fratello
Baltic × SpaceOne Seconde Majeure May 8, 2026

Introducing: The Unexpected Baltic × SpaceOne Seconde Majeure

Collaborations in the watch world are nothing new. Usually, we see a watch brand team up with some other company, often resulting in a fairly gimmicky co-branding exercise. That approach doesn’t typically float our boat, to put it mildly. Today, we have something a bit different. What happens when two seemingly incompatible watch companies join […] Visit Introducing: The Unexpected Baltic × SpaceOne Seconde Majeure to read the full article.

The Business of Watches Podcast: Oris Chief Executive Officer Rolf Studer Hodinkee
Oris Chief Executive Officer Rolf May 6, 2026

The Business of Watches Podcast: Oris Chief Executive Officer Rolf Studer

This week on The Business of Watches, we're in Hölstein, Switzerland, near Basel, at the peach-rose colored headquarters of Oris to talk to Rolf Studer, the brand's Chief Executive Officer. One of the 50 largest Swiss brands by sales, Oris is a true independent, making mechanical watches at fair prices, conveying the brand's unique spirit.  Its history dates back to 1904, with boom times in the 1960s that were kick-started by the tireless legal and lobbying work of Dr. Rolf Portmann, an Oris executive (and honorary chairman today), whose efforts led to overturning the Swiss Watch Statute in 1966 that had prevented Oris and many other brands from using Swiss lever escapements in their watch movements. Oris CEO Rolf Studer. Photo courtesy Oris.  Some 60 years later, Oris is marking that milestone with its Star Edition, an updated version of the Star, the first Oris watch to use a Swiss lever escapement after the law was changed. Portmann and Ulrich Herzog (now the Chairman) went on to lead a management buyout of Oris in 1982, which solidified the company's position as an independent brand. Studer, who has been co-CEO since 2016 and was appointed CEO last month, discusses Oris' positioning and strategy in the current market, where the strong Swiss franc is challenging it and fellow watchmakers. Oris has responded with models that not only offer value to customers but also draw on its storied history and the unique community culture it has fostered. Studer makes the case f...

SJX Podcast: Independent Highlights from Geneva SJX Watches
May 4, 2026

SJX Podcast: Independent Highlights from Geneva

During Watches & Wonders, all eyes are on the major brands exhibiting inside the cavernous Palexpo. Episode 38 of the SJX Podcast rounds up the highlights from the smaller fairs like AHCI and Time to Watches, and the independents exhibiting on their own around town. Among the standouts were Mathieu Cleguer, who debuted a novel escapement of his own design, Dominique Renaud who launched a 1 Hz balance, and Franc Vila, who seems to be entering a new era of creativity. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

Hands-On: Cleguer Horology Inspiration One SJX Watches
Voutilainen May 1, 2026

Hands-On: Cleguer Horology Inspiration One

Mathieu Cleguer makes his debut under his own name, with the intricate Inspiration One. The relatively young movement constructor is well known in the industry but has not produced watches under his own name until now. Having worked for various movement specialists — including a stint at Akrivia — Mr Cleguer launches Cleguer Horology with a thoroughly impressive debut featuring a proprietary escapement.  Initial thoughts Although the market for artisanal time-only watches has becoming increasingly crowded, sometimes a new creation comes along that genuinely stands apart. This is the case with Cleguer Horology’s Inspiration One — a watch that that is surprisingly refined and technically imaginative for a new maker’s debut. Mathieu Cleguer is representative of a new class of independent watchmakers who are not ‘watchmakers’ in the traditional sense. Instead, he is an engineer, with the training and experience to bring fundamentally new concepts to life, so long as he can find the manufacturing partners and bench watchmakers to help realise his vision. It’s a fundamentally different background than what we’re used to seeing — George Daniels, Kari Voutilainen, and François-Paul Journe started their careers doing hands-on restoration work long before they designed movements of their own. But times have changed, and the emergence of engineer-led brands is a new trend made possible by the depth of the supplier network in Switzerland. For the visual design of...

Tudor’s F1 Season Begins with Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 26” SJX Watches
Tudor s F1 Season Begins Apr 30, 2026

Tudor’s F1 Season Begins with Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 26”

Continuing with a practice that began last year, Tudor has announced a limited edition as this year’s Formula 1 season kicks off. As with last year’s edition, the Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 26” is modelled on the livery of the racing car of Visa Cash App Racing Bulls (VCARB). It’s otherwise identical to last year’s model, which means it is lightweight, well priced, and equipped with the high-spec MT5813 movement. Initial thoughts The Carbon 26 is essentially last year’s watch with a new dial, but I like the new yellow and white livery than last year’s white and blue. The colours are subjective, but the value proposition of the watch remains objectively excellent (though the price has risen largely due to the strength of the Swiss franc). The Carbon 26 is still competitively priced next to its rivals. As an aside, I hope Tudor will eventually incorporate more design elements from its historical motor racing chronographs, like the Monte Carlo, into its modern-day F1 editions like the Carbon 26. The Carbon 26 is clearly a Black Bay – the “snowflake” hands are a giveaway – but the Black Bay is a dive watch rather than one for the road. Carbon inside and out The Carbon 26 gets its name from the carbon fibre composite case and bezel, which have a patterned surface typical of the material. The type of composite employed here is more subtle appearance-wise compared to other composites used in watchmaking, so at a distance the case appears a flat black. Thoug...

Introducing: The H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Concept Tantalum Fratello
H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Apr 28, 2026

Introducing: The H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Concept Tantalum

H. Moser & Cie. is a brand that I have often come back to. It fascinates me, but I have yet to be lucky enough to handle one of its watches in the metal. This brand, like IWC, is connected to the Swiss town of Schaffhausen. There’s something in the air there. I visited just […] Visit Introducing: The H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Concept Tantalum to read the full article.

Introducing - The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar in Steel Monochrome
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar Apr 16, 2026

Introducing - The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar in Steel

Last year, Roger Dubuis unveiled the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar, a revival of a signature biretrograde complication co-patented by founder Roger Dubuis and Jean-Marc Wiederrecht (Agenhor) in 1989. Although this calendar version is simpler than the double retrograde QP the two men developed, it features the signature retrograde aesthetic intimately associated with Roger Dubuis. Following the […]