Hodinkee
Introducing: The Baltic Scalegraph Tour Auto 2025 Limited Edition
Baltic returns as the official timekeeper of The Tour de France Automobile, along with a new limited edition chronograph in honor of the long-standing rally.
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Hodinkee
Baltic returns as the official timekeeper of The Tour de France Automobile, along with a new limited edition chronograph in honor of the long-standing rally.
Monochrome
60 different references… This is how wide Tissot’s best-selling collection, the sporty-elegant integrated PRX watch, has become in about 4 years. Ranging from compact and affordable quartz models to more expensive watches with gold fluted bezels and chronograph movement, and basically everything you can imagine in between (even a forged carbon edition), you’d think the […]
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko’s flagship chronograph gets a new dial with the Tentagraph SLGC007 that just launched at Watches & Wonders 2025. Nearly identical to its predecessor, the SLGC001 with a dark blue dial, the new iteration distinguishes itself through a striking grey dial embossed with a pattern inspired by freshly fallen snow. This is matched with contrasting black sub-dials that coordinate seamlessly with the ceramic bezel, setting it apart from the earlier model. Initial thoughts The SLGC001 was a significant milestone for Grand Seiko - serving as the brand’s first mechanical chronograph - the new iteration of the Tentagraph is a just cosmetic variant. It has all the strengths and weaknesses of the original, though the dial is more attractive. This refreshed dial is far more appealing than the original in blue, as blue is somewhat overused in sports watches. The “panda”-esque black registers are also a nice touch that add to the sporty design. Priced at US$14,700, the Tentagraph SLGC007 is priced reasonably – but not quite the same value proposition as the average Grand Seiko. The Tentagraph has an impressive list of features, most obviously the in-house cal. 9SC5 with Grand Seiko’s proprietary Dual Impulse Escapement, and a high level of fit and finish, but the movement is modular in construction, which should not be a case for a flagship chronograph from a respected watchmaker. Nature inspired once again As is often the case with Grand Seiko dials, the SLGC007...
Time+Tide
The perfect vintage-inspired French chronograph for a vintage-inspired French road race, this Scalegraph hits all the right notes.The post The Baltic Scalegraph x Tour Auto packages racing blues in a new water-resistant case appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko’s flagship mechanical chronograph has been reimagined as the Sports Collection Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009. Executed in the brand’s proprietary “Brilliant Hard Titanium”, the oversized, facetted case is inspired by the paw of a lion, the historical emblem of Grand Seiko. This is the first time the Tentagraph movement is being combined with the Tokyo Lion case, setting it apart from the original model that was in the classic Grand Seiko Evolution 9 design. Initial thoughts While the original Tentagraph was conventional in style, the Tokyo Lion edition is big and bold. The watch has presence on the wrist. The case is large at 43 mm wide and almost 16 mm high, with its many facetted surfaces catching the light nicely. While the concept of a lion-inspired case might sound gimmicky, the new Tentagraph has its own appeal. The size and style makes this less of a low-key everyday watch than the first Tentagraph, but definitely more striking and original. Even though the Tokyo Lion case is arguably an acquired taste, I like this more than the original. At US$16,400, the Tokyo Lion Tentagraph is one of Grand Seiko’s priciest models in non-precious metal. But it is a flagship watch with a latest-generation movement, the cal. 9SC5, which incorporates the proprietary Dual Impulse Escapement and a free-sprung balance. The only shortcoming of the watch is the modular construction of the movement. Ten beats per second While the Tokyo Lion case design has been emplo...
Fratello
Another historic French watch brand has been revived, and this time, it’s in a way we’ve never seen. Chronofixe, initially founded in the 1850s, became a well-known altimeter and Type 20 chronograph maker in the 1960s. After that, though, the brand went quiet. A virtually unknown Chronofixe watch, model Flight 1952, already surfaced a few […] Visit Hands-On With The Chronofixe × Seconde/Seconde/ Asterix Watch to read the full article.
Monochrome
Perrelet’s flagship Turbine, with its mesmerising 12-blade turbine spinning to reveal glimpses of the lower dial, returns with a sporty chronograph complication. Bold and contemporary, the new generation of Turbine Chrono Neo in lightweight titanium cases relies on an elegant, highly legible display of elapsed times using two central chronograph hands. The three new Turbine […]
Worn & Wound
When the Tentagraph was introduced at Watches & Wonders a few years ago, it was, in its way, a pretty radical idea. Grand Seiko, somewhat surprisingly, had never developed a mechanical chronograph to that point, and the high frequency movement at work in the Tentagraph was and is a significant accomplishment. For Watches & Wonders 2025, Grand Seiko has introduced a new spin on the Tentagraph that is perhaps as equally radical as the introduction of the first Tentagraph in 2023. The new Tokyo Lion Tentagraph (reference SLGC009) puts the Tentagraph into a new context entirely, using what might be Grand Seiko’s most avant-garde and aggressive case shape. The “Lion” chronographs, which have previously only existed with Spring Drive movements, are characterized by a 43mm titanium case with around 40 facets. That, folks, is a lot of facets, and with the Grand Seiko’s zaratsu polishing applied liberally throughout, it’s one of the most dynamic and intriguing cases in their catalog. It’s also, of course, not for everyone. The severe case lines might be a bit of an acquired taste, and the whole thing has an almost M.C. Escher-like quality about it. As someone who personally struggled with geometry in middle school, this case, when I first saw it, gave me no shortage of anxiety. Over the years though, as I’ve had more experience handling these complex cases, my appreciation has grown, and the Tokyo Lion Tentagraph jumped out to me as one of the more special release...
Monochrome
Alpina, a subsidiary of the Citizen Group since 2016 – specializes in sports watches, while its sister brand Frederique Constant focuses on accessible luxury. Its core collections, the Startimer, Seastrong, and Alpiner, embody the adventurous spirit of aviation, sea exploration, and mountaineering. Within the Alpiner lineup, the Extreme series includes a chronograph, regulator, skeleton models, […]
Monochrome
Grand Seiko got into the spotlight in 2023 with the launch of its first-ever mechanical chronograph, the Evolution 9 Tentagraph SLGC001, filling the gap in the brand’s 60-year legacy of precision watchmaking – surprisingly, it was missing one until recently. For 2025, Grand Seiko introduces the Tentagraph SLGC007 – a near-identical successor to the original, […]
Monochrome
The Alpine Eagle draws inspiration from the 1980s St. Moritz series, Chopard’s take on the then-trending luxury sports watch with an integrated bracelet-a trend that has regained momentum. The Chopard Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon joined the collection in 2022, following the introduction of the chronograph and high-frequency models. While there’s always room to discuss influences […]
Monochrome
As the winner of the race to produce the world’s first integrated automatic chronograph movement in 1969, Zenith is synonymous with chronographs. Beating at a high frequency, the El Primero automatic chronograph movement set a new benchmark for precision and reliability. In light of the brand’s 160th anniversary, Zenith unveils three high-frequency chronographs – Chronomaster […]
Fratello
The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 line represents the classical, traditional collection within the German brand’s catalog. Named after the birthyear of Ferdinand Adolf Lange, the lineup features one of my all-time favorite watches, the 1815 Chronograph. So whenever new models are added, the Saxon house has my attention. Today, we see the introduction of […] Visit Introducing: New Additions To The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Collection to read the full article.
Monochrome
Grand Seiko introduced the Tokyo Lion’s bold, angular case design in 2019 and since then, additional editions have multiplied its aesthetic -limited and regular production-the most recent being the 2024 Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE307 Tokyo Lion and the Spring Drive Chronograph GMT SBGC275. This year, the Grand Seiko Sport collection expands by unveiling a […]
Worn & Wound
2022: the Kodo constant force tourbillon. 2023: the Tentagraph hi-beat mechanical chronograph. 2024: the 9SA4 manual wound, hi-beat, dual-impulse escapement caliber, and Kodo Daybreak. It’s easy to forget that Grand Seiko has brought the proverbial heat to Watches & Wonders every year since the fair started, unveiling something that one could call “revolutionary” for the brand, if on varying scales. Well, it’s looking like 2025 will continue the trend with the introduction of Spring Drive Caliber 9RB2, the first caliber with U.F.A., or Ultra Fine Accuracy, designation. Before proceeding, there are two important concepts to understand: Spring Drive and Grand Seiko’s history with acronyms (which, if you know, feel free to jump two paragraphs ahead). Starting with the former, the elevator pitch, which I will take from our article dedicated to the topic is “Spring Drive combines the best of mechanical watchmaking and the best of quartz timekeeping to create a state-of-the-art caliber that lacks the weaknesses inherent to both of these movements.” A bit deeper, Spring Drive movements use the energy stored in a traditional mainspring to drive their proprietary “Tri-synchro” regulator, which replaces the classic lever escapement. It consists of a glide wheel, the rate of which is controlled by an electromagnetic brake, and is essentially regulated by an integrated circuit with a quartz oscillator. The result is a mechanical movement with quartz-like accuracy and...
Monochrome
Jack Heuer’s Carrera chronograph is the stuff of legends. Released in 1963 and named after the dangerous Carrera Panamericana, the Carrera is still TAG Heuer’s flagship model. The current Carrera collection has eight sub-families, including the recently introduced Date family, home to the Day-Date and Twin-Time models. Released just four years ago, the Day-Date and […]
Deployant
The new releases from Louis Moinet. A revisit to the invention of the chronograph by Louis Moinet in 1816. Live photographs and handling notes from Geneva.
Fratello
For Watches and Wonders 2025, TAG Heuer announces a new lineup of Carrera Day-Date watches. Six references complete the collection with a variety of dials, case materials, and functions. Also, a new beads-of-rice bracelet is now an option for all Carrera Chronograph Glassbox models. For enthusiasts, the Carrera Day-Date may not be as exciting as […] Visit Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Day-Date And A New Beads-Of-Rice Bracelet to read the full article.
Monochrome
In the beginning, there was a Big Bang! According to scientists, the Big Bang Theory explains the universe’s origin: a hot dense point that rapidly expanded and stretched over 13.7 billion years ago. No doubt inspired by the impact of the name and its projected expansion over time, Hublot unveiled its Big Bang Chronograph 20 […]
Fratello
When Grand Seiko launched the first Tentagraph in 2023, it was also the brand’s first all-mechanical chronograph. Two years later, two new Tentagraph models debut - the Evolution 9 SLGC007, which is a new colorway of the 2023 SLGC001, and the bold Tokyo Lion SLGC009, a watch in the Sport Collection. Yes, Grand Seiko presents […] Visit Grand Seiko Presents Two Completely Different Tentagraph Watches: The Cool Evolution 9 SLGC007 And The Wild Tokyo Lion SLGC009 to read the full article.
Fratello
Last week, Breitling introduced its new three-hand Top Time models with the new B31 caliber. Today, the brand releases three more Top Time models housing the well-known chronograph B01 movement. Let’s take a quick look at these three 750-piece limited editions, including a Martini Racing version with its famous colorway. Breitling Top Time B01 Racing […] Visit Hot Take: Breitling Top Time B01 Martini Racing Plus Two Other Limited Editions to read the full article.
SJX Watches
An offshoot of the cult “restomod” automaker specialising in Porsche 911s, Singer Reimagined has up till now specialised in chronographs powered by the novel, modern AgenGraphe movement. Now the brand is taking the opposite tack with the Singer Reimagined Heritage Collection. The Heritage chronograph retains the signature Singer style, but is equipped with a rejuvenated and decorated Valjoux 236 movement that was originally made in the 1970s. The “new old stock” movement makes the Heritage more affordable than Singer’s earlier chronographs; it retails for CHF16,700 before taxes. Initial thoughts The Heritage chronograph has an appealing design with thoughtful details, which is unsurprising since Singer founder Marco Borracino is a designer by profession. Many of the details evoke 1970s motorsports chronographs, but the watch still manages to look original and capture the Singer house style. That said, the Heritage is less interesting than earlier Singer chronographs because the movement is pretty straightforward. The Valjoux 236 is a good example of high-quality industrial watchmaking of the mid-20th century, moreover it’s been dressed up well in for the Heritage. But it’s still a fairly basic chronograph movement that doesn’t have the inventiveness of the AgenGraphe found in Singer’s flagship Track 1 chronograph. But the Heritage chronograph is priced fairly for what it is. The CHF16,700 price tag makes it a competitive proposition. And it enjoys the adv...
Quill & Pad
All previous diver's watches have one thing in common: the only functionality related to diving is the bezel. The Singer Reimaged Divetrack revolutionizes dive watches with its central chronograph timing functionality.
Monochrome
Independent watchmaker Czapek launched its first luxury sports watch – the Antarctique – with the brand’s first in-house movement in 2020. Avoiding the classic formula of angular bezels that populate this genre, the Antarctique is a stylish, relatively thin model available with time (and date) functions and a sophisticated rattrapante chronograph. To mark the tenth […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The grab-and-go quartz watch is a trope in this hobby. Similar to the line of thinking that “I have to have a chronograph, and a dive watch, and a dress watch,” the grab-and-go quartz is there to fill a niche, one which relegates the quartz watch to one of last resort. It’s a grudging admission of the functional superiority of the movement type, but doesn’t give it the dignity of something you would choose, if you had time.
Fratello
It has been a while since we reviewed a Hamilton Intra-Matic, let alone a series of them. The brand’s classic chronograph is one of my favorite watches in its current catalog. The panda-dial version of the Intra-Matic Auto holds a special place in my heart. I wore that quite a bit before I wrote the […] Visit Hands-On With A Stealthy Trio Of Hamilton Intra-Matic Auto Chronos to read the full article.
Monochrome
The Intra-Matic’s origins are rooted in Project 99, developed with Büren, Heuer, Breitling and movement specialist Dubois-Depraz. The result of this joint effort was presented in 1969 with one of the first automatic chronograph movements called Chrono-Matic, or Calibre 11, depending on the brand using it. Alongside, Hamilton presented in the late 1960s the Chronograph […]
Fratello
After spending time with the Rolex Submariner ref. 5508 and the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph, I get yet another chance to explore a personal grail watch today. Yes, life can be good when you have special access to some of the world’s finest watches. This time, I got to strap on a 1978 […] Visit Exploring Evergreens: Thomas Goes Hands-On With The Original Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 3700/1A to read the full article.
Fratello
About five years ago, when another vintage Gallet chronograph watch landed in my collection, I told my wife what I had been daydreaming of for quite a while: “I will buy the Gallet brand someday!” Well, it seems that I was not the only one. Immediately after I learned about Breitling’s plans to acquire Gallet […] Visit Will Breitling’s Gallet Acquisition Reshuffle The List Of The Top 10 Watch Brands? to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Less than one year since its debut, Albishorn is back with its third chronograph. The Thundergraph continues the brand’s theme of “imaginary vintage,” this time taking inspiration from mountaineering, specifically the Swiss expeditions to Everest in 1952. With a focus on legibility, the Thundergraph features an unusual “California ghost” dial in petrol blue. Available in a limited run of 99 pieces that will be produced over a period of three years, the Thundergraph features a new iteration of the brand’s proprietary manually wound chronograph movement, developed by founder Sébastien Chaulmontet. Initial thoughts I’ve been following Albishorn since its launch, and have become more impressed with each new release. The Thundergraph is my favourite to-date, retaining the best elements of its stablemates while introducing an appealingly bold take on the California dial. The stainless steel case of the Thundergraph largely mirrors that of the earlier Type 10 and Maxigraph, and retains the appealing asymmetric form and red anodised aluminium chronograph monopusher. The case is actually just 39 mm at the case band, but wears larger due to its 42.7 mm bezel. Where the Thundergraph differs most from its siblings is its dial, which offers a sunburst finish in petroleum blue, which pairs perfectly with the rose gold-plated hands and dial markers. The so-called “California ghost” dial features Roman numerals on the top half of the dial, but rather than Arabic numer...
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