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Review: The New Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Chronograph Ref. 5370R-001
Patek Phillipe unveils its most charismatic split-seconds chronograph yet, the Ref. 5370R-001 with a two-tone enamel dial.
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Introducing – The New Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic Cinquanta Azzurro & Champagne
Gagà Laboratorio Milano, founded in 2024 by Ruben Tomella and his friend and renowned tattoo artist Mo Coppoletta, expands its Labormatic Cinquanta line with two new dial colour variants for 2025: Labormatic Azzurro and Labormatic Champagne. While visually updated, these models retain the same technical specifications and construction as previous entries in the collection, with […]
Quill & Pad
New Release: Czapek Promenade Diamond Drops
Czapek's Promenade collection places the focus on artistic dials and the new Promenade Diamond Drops adds some sparkle to the artistry. The 38 mm diameter white gold case is features a diamond-set bezel and crown, and the dial is a sparkling sea of snow-set dial of diamonds and sapphires.
Monochrome
First Look – The New Seiko Presage Classic Series Unglazed Arita Porcelain SPB497
Seiko has shown great skill and creativity when it comes to its watches, mostly in the art of dial making. Ranging from simple to complex, there’s always an interesting story surrounding the inspiration and the creation of its dials. Whether it be a texture of Edo silk, or the shift in colour in the waters […]
SJX Watches
Breguet’s Latest Type XX is Vintage Inspired and No-Date
Following the Classique Souscription, and Tradition Seconde Rétrograde, Breguet continues its 250th anniversary roll-out by turning to its signature pilot’s watch. The Type XX Chronographe 2075BH debuts in two variants in “Breguet gold”: a regular production with a black aluminium dial and a 250-piece limited edition with a sterling silver dial. Both are handsome and stay mostly true to the model’s heritage thanks to faithful sizing and a manually-wound movement. The regular production with a black aluminium dial (left), and sterling silver dial of the limited edition Initial Thoughts The new Type XX ticks many of the boxes from an enthusiast’s perspective with its compact dial and concise dial that does without a date and hour totalizer – both welcome reductions to the first-generation design. That said, the Breguet gold case is limiting due to the price. A stainless steel case would’ve been even more appreciated, though that will probably arrive in due time. While the cal. 7278/7279 in the new Type XX is technically excellent – like most Breguet calibres – the thoroughly modern construction doesn’t complement the vintage-inspired design. Adapting the cal. 582 used in the 1990s Type XX might have been more interesting due to its lateral clutch construction and increasingly rare cam-control system, though the cal. 7278/7279 reads better on a spec sheet with its vertical clutch. And to preserve the vintage feel, a solid, hand-engraved case back might...
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Autodromo x Worn & Wound Prototipo Limited Edition 70's Style Vintage Inspired Chronograph
SJX Watches
J.N. Shapiro Debuts Entry-Level Infinity Series Pure
J.N. Shapiro’s Infinity Series Pure is a new entry point into the American brand. This follows the top-of-the-line Resurgence, the most American-made mechanical wristwatch built since Hamilton shut down in the 1960s. This new model focuses purely on the dial and hands, which are excellent, while trusting Swiss suppliers with ancillary details like the case and caliber. The result is a much more accessible, though less impressive, watch than J.N. Shapiro’s usual fare. Initial Thoughts When the original Infinity line was discontinued in 2023, it left the brand without an entry-level watch, and the company put all of its efforts behind the ambitious Resurgence project. Now that things have settled down, the team once again has the bandwidth to support a second model. The Infinity Series Pure uses an off-the-shelf La Joux-Perret (LJP) movement. While a good, slim movement with an extended power reserve, the LJP F200/7380 isn’t particularly premium, and a downgrade from the UWD cal. 33.1 used in previous infinity models. For example, Ralph Lauren uses the LJP movement in its Vintage 67 line priced at around US$3,000. The case is also outsourced, likely to a Swiss manufacturer, through the Alternative Horological Alliance (AHA), a consortium of independent brands that J.N. Shapiro helped found. This focuses all of Shapiro’s attention on the dial and hands, though both are significantly less complex than on the Resurgence. At US$26,000 the Infinity Series Pure is about a ...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Merci Instruments Unveils A Quartet Of New LMM-01s
Straight from Paris, the latest four dial iterations on this modern classic span from pure dress to utilitarian field.
Teddy Baldassarre
Bulova Devil Diver Review
The Bulova Devil Diver (formally known as the Bulova Oceanographer) first debuted back in the 1960s, when it went on to become something of a cult classic. It wasn’t a record-breaking dive watch worn by the world’s most accomplished that-and-that, it just had a striking design, and there was something edgy and subversive about that “666ft” on the dial. Of course, that number has to do with its water resistance and nothing sinister, but the Devil Diver moniker is really catchy and has stuck. Back in 2018, Bulova reissued the Oceanographer, but at 44mm wide it was just not what a lot of people were clamoring for. A few years later, in 2021, came this 41mm wide version that is much truer to the original. Four years later, the affordable dive watch market has gotten more competitive but the Bulova Devil Diver still holds its own, so let’s take a look at what makes this orange-dial diver feel like a slice of heaven for well under $1,000. Bulova Devil Diver Case: When the Bulova Devil Diver was first reintroduced back in 2018, there were quite a few gripes we all heard about the 44mm case being just way too big and not true to the original. Fortunately, the 2021 iteration brought the case back to the 41mm size of the original, a decision that won over the hearts of some jilted purists. To be fair, you do not have to be a vintage purist to see why a 41mm case will always be preferable to 44mm to a vast majority of contemporary buyers. Of course, the ~202 meters of water...
Worn & Wound
The Latest Oris Hölstein Edition is a Blacked Out ProPilot with a Glowing Surprise
For the sixth year in a row, Oris has launched a watch on the anniversary of their founding. The Hölstein Edition watches, which debut each year on June 1, are an opportunity for Oris to celebrate their heritage, release a watch that’s perhaps a little outside the box, and have some fun in the process. Previous Hölstein Editions include an Aquis diver with a bold purple dial, the revival of a classic complication, and, most recently, an unusual and very cool blacked out edition of their classic Divers Sixty-FIve. A throughline through these watches is the appearance of the Oris Bear, and for this year’s Hölstein Edition we get a particularly fun cameo from the brand’s mascot via a fully lumed dial. This year’s watch is a fresh take on the ProPilot, Oris’s contemporary, aviation inspired watch. For this limited edition (as with previous Hölstein Editions, this one is limited to 250 pieces) the stainless steel case has been given an aggressive black DLC treatment. It’s still, of course, unmistakably a ProPilot, with the hallmark fluted bezel and the gently curved 41mm case. This is much more than a blacked out ProPilot, though. Oris is having a lot of fun with the dial, giving it a full lume treatment that appears white in the daylight and glows green in the dark when the luminescent material is activated. The Arabic numerals, dial text, and hands are all in matte black, which makes the dial easy to read in both well lit situations and, importantly, in the ...
SJX Watches
Hands On: F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain 20th Anniversary
Although Francois-Paul Journe is best known for his inventions like the Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite and Resonance, not to mention the whole suite of Octa models, the Chronomètre Souverain was also arguably one of his brand’s foundational models. This year F.P. Journe is marking two decades of the watch with the Chronomètre Souverain 20th Anniversary, which is essentially the original in new dress – the dial is now dark blue with applied gold numerals. Initial thoughts When the Chronomètre Souverain debuted in 2005 – the same year as the Breguet Tradition that was recently revived – it was novel and exciting; I remember the buzz amongst enthusiasts then. The F.P. Journe brand was barely six years old. The Chronomètre Souverain was then one of the rare few time-only watches from an independent watchmaker, and it had an all-new movement to boot. Today it is less exciting for sure, but the movement remains surprising novel for a basic calibre. As an entry-level watch, the Chronomètre Souverain remains excellent (even if availability is an obstacle). Although the Chronomètre Souverain is the simplest mechanical F.P. Journe watch, the cal. 1304 inside still retains the technical hallmarks of the brand, namely elegant, concise engineering and symmetry. Clever touches include the “invisible” gear train; only the regulator and barrels are visible on the main plate. From its conception, the cal. 1304 was conceived for chronometry. The utility and strength of t...
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A Refined Tool Watch With Some Interesting Tritium - BALL Watch Engineer III Starlight
Time+Tide
Oris continues its annual tradition with a luminous twist for 2025’s Hölstein Edition
The first Big Crown ProPilot without a date window, this full lume dial Oris has a bear-shaped Easter egg.The post Oris continues its annual tradition with a luminous twist for 2025’s Hölstein Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Breguet Classique Souscription
Breguet got off to a good start for its 250th anniversary with the Classique Souscription, which despite being not an entirely new model in technical terms, is arguably the best watch the brand has launched in years, perhaps reflecting the influence of a new chief executive. Powered by a calibre based on the longstanding Tradition movement, the one-handed Classique Souscription marries an atypical (for Breguet) 20th century case with a dial inspired by 19th century pocket watches – resulting in a surprisingly coherent creation that still feels quintessentially Breguet. Initial thoughts I was pleasantly surprised by the Classique Souscription. Breguet managed to take a familiar model and transform it into something different and appealing. The brand didn’t manage to do the same with the second anniversary model, which is essentially a rehash of the Tradition but with an enamel dial. Sized just right, the Classique Souscription feels like it was conceived by an enthusiast with knowledge of vintage watches; the red leather-covered presentation box underlines that. The design is simple overall, but enhanced with details like a sharply finished single hand and “secret signature” engraved the old fashion way. The form of the case is clearly early to mid 20th century, while the dial evokes the original Souscription pocket watch. Although the case and dial styles are 150 years apart, they complement each other almost perfectly; the result still looks very much like a Breg...
WatchAdvice
Breitling Top Time Martini Racing Review: A Winning Partnership
The Breitling Top Time Martini Racing is a stylish tribute to the brand’s motorsport heritage, blending retro 1960s design with the iconic flair of Martini Racing, and here is how it performs in the modern-day watch world… What We Love The vibrant colours and dial stand out on the wrist A super easy-wearing watch thanks to its dimensions and lightness A great If You Know, You Know (IYKYK) collaboration What We Don’t The 38mm size wears on the smaller side, and may not suit larger wrists The domed crystal does distort the tachymeter scale on the outer section of the dial Start function on the chronograph is a little stiffer than expected Overall Rating: 8.6 / 10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Two Brands, One Shared Passion Normally when watch brands embark on collaborations with companies or brands outside the watch world, there is normally a pre-existing association in place. Usually through a sponsorship of an event, or partnership with a movie, that kind of thing. However, with the new Breitling Top Time Martini Racing, this is not quite the case. What it is, however, is a partnership based on a shared passion – Motorsport. Interestingly, neither Breitling nor Martini Racing are motoring brands either. Before you say, “But Martini Racing is one of the most iconic motorsports brands out there!” to which you are right, I’ll preface that statement. Martini Racing is part of Martini & Rossi, the alcohol brand base...
Deployant
New: Leica ZM1 and ZM2 Urban Green
Leica presents a new colour for their ZM1 and ZM2 collection - now in Urban Green with a fumé noir dial which fades from green to black.
Fratello
One Of The Best-Kept Secrets: The Gold Speedmaster First Omega In Space
Ten years ago, Omega introduced the Globemaster, the Seamaster 300 Spectre edition, and the white-dial Speedmaster Silver Snoopy Award 45th Anniversary limited edition. That year, Omega focused primarily on the Spectre and the Snoopy, neglecting to give the Globemaster the attention it deserved. Additionally, the Sedna (rose) Gold Speedmaster First Omega in Space (FOiS) did […] Visit One Of The Best-Kept Secrets: The Gold Speedmaster First Omega In Space to read the full article.
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Scratch Test Titanium, Stainless, Ceramic, Extra Hard Coated steel, Bronze Comparison Which is best?
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Introducing – Awake Presents the new Son Mai “Frosted Leaf” Collection
A young French brand, Awake Watches was founded by Lilian Thibault in 2019 with the idea to raise awareness of our planet’s limited resources. From there, the brand diversified with NASA-themed models or watches with a dial inspired by the natural geometry of a sunflower. Last year, Awake released Son Mài, its first permanent collection […]
Deployant
New: Ba111od Chapter 4 Onyx Flying Tourbillon
Ba1110d once again partnered with with Olivier Mory to bring this next iteration of their flying tourbillon, now in a very discreet, onyx dial.
Fratello
Sunday Morning Showdown: Oris Divers Date Vs. Longines Legend Diver
Another Sunday morning, another showdown. Grab your hot cup of coffee and get ready to vote! This week, it’s all about popular retro dive watches. One is the recently released white-dial Longines Legend Diver. It was met with much praise from media and fans alike as a brighter alternative to the black- and blue-dial options. […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Oris Divers Date Vs. Longines Legend Diver to read the full article.
Fratello
Hands-On With The Remarkable Selten Grand Feu Enamel Moonstone
If you have never heard of the brand Selten, you aren’t the only one. However, the brand founded by Leonardo Tsai has been around since 2017. The Hong Kong-based Selten founder comes from a family of dial makers, so he grew up around watches. After an initial stint in the world of finance, Tsai gave […] Visit Hands-On With The Remarkable Selten Grand Feu Enamel Moonstone to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing – The Bauhaus-Inspired Stowa Antea Classic KS Rose Gold and Anthracite
Founded by Walter Storz in 1927, German watch brand Stowa is historically associated with Flieger (pilot) watches. A lesser-known chapter in the history of the brand is its series of watches that embraced the design tenets put forward by the state-run Bauhaus school of design. Produced in 1937 and designed by the reputed dial company […]
![The ROLEX SKY DWELLER... It's Complicated [Review of Steel Sky Dweller]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/d4B9Ol93FfQ/hqdefault.jpg)
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The ROLEX SKY DWELLER... It's Complicated [Review of Steel Sky Dweller]
Monochrome
Introducing – The Accessible, New Formex Field Automatic Gen-2
In 2022, following the launch of the Reef dive watch and the casual-sporty Essence, Formex expanded into the field watch segment with the release of the Field Automatic. Housed in a 41mm titanium case with 150m of water resistance, the first iteration featured a range of dial colours, including Charcoal, Petrol Blue, Ash Grey, Mahogany […]
Deployant
New: Hublot Square Bang Tourbillon
Hublot releases the Square Bang Tourbillon, a square shaped case in carbon fibre with a square form movement, with square bridges visible through the dial.
SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Lapis Lazuli
Continuing with the blue theme for its 160th anniversary, Zenith has upgraded its compact, vintage-inspired chronograph with a natural stone dial. The Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Lapis Lazuli is a combination of old and new, plus a luxe dial. The watch is equipped with the latest-generation El Primero movement, but dressed in a 1970s design – here upgraded with a dial of lapis lazuli, the same semiprecious stone found on the G.F.J. cal. 135 revival. Initial thoughts I like the basic design of the Chronomaster Original because it’s essentially a remake of the 1969 El Primero, which is a retro design that still works well today. Zenith has made too many exact replicas of the vintage originals, but fortunately the lapis lazuli edition is different. The stone dial sets it apart visually, while also giving it a more refined feel than the typical Zenith. Though simple, the lapis dial feels like a substantive upgrade to an established and appealing design. The upgraded dial, however, comes at a price that’s too steep. At US$22,700, the lapis dial costs almost US$10,000 more than the standard model with a brass dial. The difference is too much and equally difficult to justify. A prototype revived Although the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar a seems like a vintage remake, it is not exactly. Instead, the standard model introduced last year was based on a 1970s prototype that never made it intro production. So it has the familiar 1969 El Primero case and dial la...
Monochrome
First Look – The New Delma Montego Chronograph Black Editions
In 2022, the Lengnau watchmaker Delma returned the Montego, a bold, versatile chronograph with a racing-inspired edge defined by its prominent external tachymeter scale. Built as a genuine sports watch, it’s ready for adventure on land or underwater, thanks to its robust 200m water resistance. Initially launched in four dial colours, white, black, green, and […]
Quill & Pad
New Release: MB&F; Special Project One: Seemingly-Simple, 38 mm, Time-Only, and Simply-Sensational
The MB&F; SP One, initially dubbed "Three Circles", showcases a trinity of floating elements – the barrel, balance wheel, and dial – defying gravity on your wrist.
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