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Live from WWG25: highlights from Ressence new releases
We are now with Benôit Mentes to be introduced with Ressence. Here is our hands on with the new watches. Here is our impressions.
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Deployant
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds: A Selection of Affordable Seikos, Plus a Killer Bulova
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Seiko UFO 6138-0011 Welcome to the “mostly Seiko eBay Finds”. Like most things in this world, good watch auctions can come in groups, such as this week! I wasn’t particularly looking for Seikos, but I found several for your bidding pleasure. First up is this vintage 1971 Seiko “UFO” 6138-0011 chronograph. This is a unique Seiko chronograph, and one that is easy to recognize with its big round case (hence the UFO moniker). The black dial is nice and clean and looks great with the up/down big eye look with the larger 6 o’clock subdial. The pushers on this model are also unique, with piston-like engraved grooves. This watch would’ve originally come on a Seiko bracelet, but the rally style strap it’s on works well. Overall the watch is in good shape, with an unpolished case and clean dial, hands and bezel. Runs well per the seller but no movement picture. View auction here Seiko 5 Sports 7019-7050 The next Seiko up is this nice vintage 1972 Seiko 5 Sports 7019-7050. This is a great looking sport watch, with a large, 39mm wide round-ish steel case that has a wide beveled bezel. It almost looks like a diver, but it has no diver’s bezel, external or internal. The di...
Time+Tide
Racing into the past with the Atelier Jalaper AJ-003
This Belgian brand's latest watch features dials made from the bonnet of a real 1962 Jaguar E-Type Semi-Lightweight.The post Racing into the past with the Atelier Jalaper AJ-003 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
6 of the best Spanish watch brands from Galicia to Catalonia
Usually not considered a watchmaking hotspot, Spain has some hidden horological gems.The post 6 of the best Spanish watch brands from Galicia to Catalonia appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Introducing – The Beautiful Blue Silk Dial of the Ressence Type 8 Indigo
Founded by Belgian industrial designer Benoît Mintiens in 2010, Ressence is renowned for its ingenious no-hands display of the time. Sleek, minimalist, futuristic watches with innovative mechanical solutions, Ressence tells the time with revolving sub-dials powered by the brand’s patented Orbital Convex System (ROCS). Like planets orbiting the Sun, the time indications circle the dial […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Owner's Review: The Serica 5303-3 COSC Diving Chronometer Is Parisian
Picture the scene: a hectic work week ends with a quick bite at your favorite Italian trattoria, then you hustle a few blocks afterwards to a dimly lit West Village jazz club to catch a blazing first set from the house band. Glancing down at your wrist, you see you have just enough time to cab it to the airport for the redeye to Paris for a well-deserved long weekend, beachfront on the Côte d'Azur. But the watch on your wrist isn’t a vintage Rolex GMT-Master or Omega Seamaster 300, although either would be a fine choice to segue from the office to the French Riviera without missing a beat. No, your timepiece is from Serica, a microbrand based in France with enough Continental cool and midcentury charm to appear as if it just popped out of a time capsule from 1962. If ever a modern sports watch evoked the Mad Men era, this is it. Even though it’s only been in existence since 2019, Serica doesn't feel like a typical microbrand. In fact, it has the aura of an established horological icon, one with its own storied history and visual language. And if it’s not readily apparent, I’m positively obsessed with the entire Serica aesthetic. Serica's French-designed, Swiss-made creations blend the refinement of classic Parisian fashion with the urbane cool of a European matinee idol. The company’s debut release was the W.W.W field watch, followed by the 5303 diver that made its bow in 2021, in both black and white-dialed variants. A new colorway was offered the followin...
Worn & Wound
Bulova Begins their 150th Anniversary Celebration with the Premier of the Documentary “America Telling Time”
Next year, Bulova turns 150 years old, but you’ll forgive them if they start the celebration a little early. Last week in New York City, the band’s home for its entire history, Bulova hosted the world premiere of America Telling Time, a documentary about an hour in length that charts the course of the brand through 150 years of being, quite literally, an American standard in time telling. Watching the film in a room full of watch collectors, watch media, and Bulova staffers it became clear that Bulova is truly unlike any other watch brand, and not for the usual reasons we typically invoke that possibly overused phrase. Bulova’s history is tied inextricably to American history in a way that no other brand can replicate, which is a simple fact of its founding, longevity, and ability to always be on the cusp of trends in culture and watchmaking. Before sitting down to watch the film at the premiere, I had an opportunity to speak with Jeffrey Cohen, President of Citizen Watch America, and Patty Schmoyer, Vice President of Marketing at Bulova, about what we could expect later that evening when the documentary would be shown. “You’re going to see how Bulova played a vital role in our society,” Cohen told me. He then went on to list the seemingly endless arenas in which Bulova was a factor in American life. The space program, being a pioneer in radio and television advertising, and promoting equal pay for equal work at a time when a large American company taking a s...
SJX Watches
Louis Erard Introduces the Affordable Tourbillon Alain Silberstein
Louis Erard returns to its flagship model, the Le Régulateur Tourbillon x Alain Silberstein, now in black. The tourbillon builds on the previous collaborations with the French designer but ups the ante on price and complexity. Louis Erard first tapped Alain Silberstein, known for his instantly recognisable Bauhaus-inspired aesthetic, in 2019 for a successful collaboration that led to a second collection in 2021. This new 78-piece limited edition is the first time Le Régulateur Tourbillon is presented in Silberstein’s typical Bauhaus colours. The model initially debuted last year as part of a three-piece set in khaki green, followed by a 10-piece limited edition made for UAE-based retailer Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons. Initial thoughts Louis Erard has created an interesting niche for itself in the world of independent watchmaking with its ongoing string of well-priced collaborations with established independent watchmakers like Konstantin Chaykin and Vianney Halter. And while the brand is arguably at its best when it challenges conventional expectations of watch design, such as its collaborations with designers from outside the industry like Oliver Mosset and atelier oï, the designs of Alain Silberstein have proven timeless in their own quirky way. Le Régulateur Tourbillon features a 40 mm titanium case that is also surprisingly slim at just 11.8 mm. That said, it’s likely to wear larger due to the hinged strap loops that extend beyond the case. With a black nylon strap and...
SJX Watches
Up Close: Louis Vuitton Tambour Opera Automata
Louis Vuitton has received much press recently for the Tambour, a restrained, sleek watch with just three hands. But the brand also makes watches at the other end of the spectrum, as personified by the Tambour Opera Automata. A large watch with an even larger presence, the Opera Automata is an extremely complicated watch with a kinetic dial – that is also enamelled by Anita Porchet. The pusher at two o’clock activates the automata on the dial, which also serves to indicate the time with jumping hours and retrograde minutes. Although mechanically identical to the earlier Carpe Diem automata watch, the Opera Automata is more striking thanks to its vivid colours, and also more relatable for East Asians given the theme. Initial thoughts The Tambour Opera Automata is a statement watch that is hard to miss by virtue of its size and colour. Although the extravagant style is typical of Louis Vuitton, the details of the enamel dial are particularly fine. Moreover, the motif is more appealing to me personally compared to its predecessor, the Carpe Diem from three years ago. I was impressed by the Carpe Diem, both for its complexity and execution, particularly the delicate enamelled snake, but the skull-and-snake motif was too much for me. It was also less relatable, since it is a vanitas, a familiar concept in Western culture. With a Chinese opera motif, the Opera Automata, on the other hand, is more relatable. The Opera Automata is impressively decorated on the front – unsurp...
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds: Vintage Chronographs & LED Screens
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Sheffield First up this week is a sweet vintage Sheffield “panda” dial chronograph. This gem has a 38mm chrome plated case that is in great shape, with almost no pitting and nice sharp edges. The dial is silver with black sub dials, and it looks fantastic, with clean steel stick hands and a bright orange chronograph seconds hand. This one is powered by the ubiquitous work horse Valjoux 7733 manual wind movement that is clean and runs well per the seller. Vintage chronographs are highly sought after, and “no-name” examples like this Sheffield can go for a very reasonable price, even with a well made and well known movement like the Valjoux 7733. Great chance to get a nice vintage chronograph without breaking the bank. View auction here. Vintage Wittnauer Here’s a gorgeous vintage Wittnauer with an amazing dial. The simple white dial has super cool faceted applied steel hour markers at 3, 6, 9 and 12, with no date, and simple little dots for the minutes. Big lume filled steel dauphine hands compliment the look. The 33.5mm steel case looks unpolished with nice sharp edges and stylish curved lugs. The original crown is signed with the Wittnauer “W” logo. The manual w...
SJX Watches
Highlights: Artisanal Timepieces at Sotheby’s Hong Kong Fall Auction
After delving into the notable complications in Sotheby’s upcoming Hong Kong auction on October 7, we shift our focus to the timepieces exhibiting a distinct artisanal touch, spanning the encyclopaedia of decorative techniques from cloisonné enamelling to wood marquetry. Several are exquisite examples of enamel crafted by the renowned artisans Anita Porchet and her eponymous workshop, along with a pocket watch with a miniature enamel made by Hélène May-Mercier for Patek Philippe. Another highlight is the commemorative Vacheron Constantin Mercator created to mark the handover of Hong Kong to China in 1997 that was the work of a Belgium husband-and-wife enamel workshop. Important Watches I takes place on October 7, 2023. Registration for bidding and the catalogue can be accessed here. Lot 2209: Vacheron Constantin Mercator “Hong Kong Handover 1997” The transfer of sovereignty over Hong Kong from the United Kingdom to the People’s Republic of China was a significant historical event that brought an end to 156 years of colonial rule in the territory and marked the conclusion of the British Empire. To mark the handover, Vacheron Constantin created a special iteration of the Mercator. One of the brand’s best known models at the time, the Mercator set itself apart with a unique double retrograde display for the hours and minutes, with the top-of-the-line models having cloisonné enamel dials. While the initial Mercator editions portrayed entire continents or regi...
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante
Since their management overhaul became something of a fairytale success story, Parmigiani Fleurier operate under a keen eye from the wristwatch community. From brand confusion to elation, any release from their Tonda PF range is bound to become somewhat of a sensation. When they released their Rattrapante GMT last year, the notion of a perfectly … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Garrick Regulator Mk2
UK based independents Garrick Watches ups the ante with a new hand-made, hand-wound Regulator Mk2. Available in multiple dial colours and finishing.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds: NOS Full Kits, Classic Divers, & Unknown Chronos
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Nivada Grenchen CASD Starting this week off with a classic chrono-diver, the amazingly named Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver. I mean, could the name be any better? As great as the name is, the watch is even better. The Chronomaster is a timeless masterpiece, with simple, functional design that looks as good as it is functional. There are many different iterations of the Chronomaster, with different dials, hands and movements, but I feel this one is the best. Clean black dial with two black subdials and the broad arrow hour hand. The steel case measure about 38mm (seller doesn’t state this, but I have the same watch), and looks unpolished, with nice sharp edges on the beveled lugs. This example is powered by the buttery smooth Valjoux caliber 23 manual wind movement, which is a joy to use. The elapsed time aluminum bezel insert is in excellent condition, and the watch even comes on a Nivada signed bracelet! Seller states the watch keeps time and works properly, but there is some patina on the dial, so keep that in mind. View auction here. Hema Chronograph Another chronograph, but this one has a much bolder look to it. This circa 1960’s Hema (yeah, I’ve never heard ...
Quill & Pad
Wearing The Crown: Ressence Type 2 E-Crown (Video) – Reprise
The Watches TV founder Marc-André Deschoux explains how the personal Type 2 E-Crown of Ressence's founder, Benoît Mintiens, works in this video.
Time+Tide
Back in black: The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 celebrates 75 Years of the iconic car brand
Celebrating the 75th anniversary of Porsche’s first car, the band have re-released a special edition of the Porsche Design Chronograph 1 limited to 475 pcs. The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 was originally designed by the same Ferdinand Porsche who designed the 911 It was originally the first watch to feature a blacked-out PVD case If … ContinuedThe post Back in black: The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 celebrates 75 Years of the iconic car brand appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds: Cosmic Seamasters, Wakmann Chronos, & Vintage Bulovas
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Bulova Accutron Here we have a beautiful Accutron with a cool, space-age design. As if the now classic caliber 218 tuning fork movement isn’t futuro enough, the dial and handset on this one take it to the next level. The champagne dial has a radial brushed finish and thin yet bold radial lines for hour markers. The unpolished steel case is simple and round, but with a nice beveled bezel and sharp chamfers on the angled lugs. The bold red hour and minute hands along with the black second hand complete the space-age look. Signed crown at 4 o’clock…as it should be. Seller states the watch runs and keeps time. Vintage Accutrons don’t get much better than this! View auction here. Eagle Star Diver Here’s a vintage diver I haven’t seen before. I have a couple of vintage Eagle Star Squale divers from the 1960’s, but it looks like Eagle Star kept going into at least the 1980’s! This diver has a great look, and is in fantastic condition. The steel case has the classic Submariner style with the crown guards, and looks to be sharp and unpolished. The black dial has large lume Arabic numerals and a simple date window at 3 o’clock. The hands are black and white with lume p...
Worn & Wound
Opinion: Watch Collecting in the Quantum Realm
Possibly against my better judgment, I saw Ant-Man and the Wasp: Quantumania recently. While it’s not my least favorite Marvel movie, it was pretty bad, somehow finding a way to rob Paul Rudd of nearly all of his natural charm, and filled with special effects that look not very special at all. I found my mind drifting, wondering if any of these actors actually met each other during filming, or if production had them fly in separately to film in front of massive green screens. And, as it too frequently does, my thoughts turned to watches. Wondering, as my colleagues did a few weeks ago, if Rudd chose that Grand Seiko for himself at the Ant-Man premiere, and if there was a quantum reality where he might have chosen a different watch for himself altogether, and if maybe in that reality he plays Captain America instead, and the MCU movies weren’t in a state of perpetual decline. The premise of Quantumania is actually interesting. Without getting too deep into the weeds, everything in the movie hinges on the quantum physics inspired idea that every decision point you encounter has infinite possibilities, and those possibilities play out in the “quantum realm.” That means new versions of you, and everyone you encounter, are constantly splitting off of your own perceived reality. This type of multiverse enabling storytelling is core to comic book mythologies, and seems to be playing out more frequently in this phase of Marvel films. In Quantumania, it means that in one ...
Hodinkee
Pre-Owned Picks: Five Unusual Watches That Are New To The Shop
Most of us are familiar with a Submariner or a Navitimer, so now let's look at the hidden gems in some of the most popular brand's catalogs.
Time+Tide
Ash Barty collaborates on a new Rado True Square inspired by her mum
Apparently, Rado can turn you into a tennis champion. When the British player, Andy Murray partnered with the Swiss brand in 2012, he’d never won a Grand Slam. After signing with Rado, however, he proceeded to win the US Open and then became the first Brit to conquer Wimbledon since 1936, when he won the … ContinuedThe post Ash Barty collaborates on a new Rado True Square inspired by her mum appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
How Jacob & Co made hysterical exuberance their stock in trade (before adding extra diamonds…)
Jacob & Co don’t really make watches. What they specialise in is wrist-bound manifestations of the American Dream. The brand’s watches tend to be buried alive in diamonds or tricked out in mind-boggling complications. Sometimes they combine both at the same time. You can’t describe them as mere status symbols. They’re more like flashing neon … ContinuedThe post How Jacob & Co made hysterical exuberance their stock in trade (before adding extra diamonds…) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
In City on a Hill, Jackie Rohr understands the sleazy magnificence of a two-tone Rolex
“Am I supposed to hate Jackie Rohr, because I f*cking love him!” That post on Reddit sums up the general feeling for everyone’s favourite anti-hero in City on a Hill. If you haven’t watched it yet, don’t miss out. Set in the 1990s, this gritty drama hits like The Wire with a Boston accent, unfolding … ContinuedThe post In City on a Hill, Jackie Rohr understands the sleazy magnificence of a two-tone Rolex appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Hans Gruber in Die Hard wears a Cartier Tank better than anyone else
The Cartier Tank is hardly a watch lacking in high-profile endorsements. From Andy Warhol to Mohammad Ali and Fred Astaire to Steve McQueen, many great men have fallen for its square-jawed linearity, Roman numerals and cabochon crown that looks like an erotic police siren. But, let’s face it, the bad guys are always more interesting. … ContinuedThe post Hans Gruber in Die Hard wears a Cartier Tank better than anyone else appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Double Freak: Heavy Metal Maestro & Master Watchmaker
Dan Spitz is well known in the music world for his contributions to ’80s anthem rock as a founding member of the band Anthrax. For over a decade he watched this dream become a reality, then turned his attention to the world of watchmaking to produce a complete watch that is born in the USA.
Hodinkee
Watch Of The Week: I Have To Admit, I Love Nixon’s Tribute To The Grateful Dead
Most rock-band watches are hopelessly lame. But I've got a soft spot for this one.
Time+Tide
Succession finale: The most significant watches from the hit show
Are you reeling from the finale of Succession, too? Over the nine episodes of the third season, the HBO show has consistently upped the dramatic ante, combining Machiavellian politics with sibling rivalry and filial warfare. Sure, that may just sound like the ingredients of your average family Christmas. But part of Succession’s giddy appeal – … ContinuedThe post Succession finale: The most significant watches from the hit show appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Exhibition: The Cartier Tank Experience Singapore
An easily digestible journey through the history of Cartier’s most famous rectangular watch, the Cartier Tank Experience is now open in Singapore until December 5, 2021. Taking place at Malmaison by The Hour Glass, the Cartier Tank Experience explores the history of the Tank with a timeline that rings the exhibition. Punctuatated by famous faces enraging from artist Andy Warhol to First World War hero General John Pershing, the Tank timeline touches on the bewildering variety of models over its century-long history, including the Tank Cintree and lesser known variants like the Tank Normale. And it is also a showcase of the jeweller’s current line up of Tanks, including the bestselling Tank Must with solid-colour dials and the Prive Tank Cintree (which is perhaps under-appreciated because it’s not a limited edition). The exhibition also includes a “strap bar”, basically a section where custom straps for the Tank can be ordered – and the Tank wristwatch itself personalised. Visitors can choose from alligator hide in 16 colours, and also specify the stitching, lining, and even a personalised inscription on the lining. Alongside the custom strap (and included in its cost), Cartier is also offering the option of engraving the owner’s initials on the case back of his or her Tank. The strap bar Exhibition details Open from now till December 5, 2021 Monday to Saturday 11.30 am-7.30 pm Sunday and public holidays 11.30 am-7.00 pm Visitors should register in advance for...
SJX Watches
Peren Introduces the Nera Rogue Diver
Founded by Romanian native Andy Bica-Popi but based in Switzerland, Peren styles itself as a Transylvanian watch brand. The micro-brand’s offerings are characterised by a clean, functional aesthetic, a style encapsulated by the Nera Rogue. Peren’s first dive watch is loosely inspired by the Tornek-Rayville TR-900, a rare and obscure dive watch that’s actually a rebadged Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, which the Swiss watchmaker made for its American agent who in turn supplied them to the US Navy in the 1960s. Utilitarian and cleanly styled, the Nera Rogue takes after the TR-900, which is reflected in the hour markers and bezel, but is evidently not a vintage remake. And in a nod to today’s fashionable colour, the Nera Rogue has dark-green dial. Initial thoughts Granted, the population of micro-brands is ever increasing, especially those making dive watches, but a handful are both interesting and affordable enough to be worth a second look. Since micro-brands typically rely on the same few outsourced movements (often Sellita or Miyota), it falls to design to distinguish one from another. And Peren manages to set itself apart – albeit only on the second try. The Nera Rogue is actually Peren’s second go at the design. What’s really new on the Nera Rogue is actually its bezel – which is the primary element inspired by the TR-900 – while the rest of the watch is actually identical to a past model known as the Nera that was equipped with a smooth, unmarked bezel, m...
Quill & Pad
What Defines A Handmade Mechanical Watch In The Modern World? – Reprise
To this day, when most people think about luxury watches they picture a wizened, white-haired man in a white lab coat bent over a workbench against the backdrop of snowy Alps busily filing away at watch parts. It’s a lovely picture, but not very representative of the modern – or even necessarily traditional – watch industry as Elizabeth Doerr explains here.
SJX Watches
Panerai Memorialises Classic 1930s Sailboat Eilean
Panerai’s latest is unusual relative to its recent launches that are clearly contemporary designs – the Radiomir Eilean PAM 1243 is a traditionally-styled special edition that commemorates the eponymous sailboat built in 1936, the year the brand started supplying the Italian military with its waterproof wristwatches. Panerai acquired Eilean in 2006, after its former chief executive Angelo Bonati – a keen sailor with a fondness for old school sailboats – spotted the derelict yacht in Antigua. Three years of restoration made it seaworthy again, and now the boat occasionally sails as a roving ambassador for the watchmaker. While its outline and layout are familiar, the Radiomir Eilean incorporates details not commonly found on Panerai watches, such as the pinstriped dial inspired by the teak deck of Eilean. And the case has a special, “aged” finish first seen on the Radiomir 8 Days PAM 992 of 2019 that’s simultaneously shiny and matte, giving it a lived-in feel but not quite vintage. Engraving is done on the case side, leaving the dial clean Initial thoughts The Radiomir Eilean has most of the features that make for an appealing Panerai wristwatch, including a good-looking palette and discreet, interesting details across the dial and case – except for the oversized Eilean emblem on the case side. The mix of new and old in the design will not be for everyone, but I like it. Particularly attractive are the vintage-y colours, which have all been used before, b...