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Baselworld 2015: Breguet Tradition Répétition Minutes Tourbillon 7087
Of all the watches covered thus far, this Breguet is arguably the most impressive innovation in Minute Repeater history, to make it to Baselworld 2015.
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Deployant
Of all the watches covered thus far, this Breguet is arguably the most impressive innovation in Minute Repeater history, to make it to Baselworld 2015.
Deployant
On its 260th Anniversary, Vacheron Constantin decided to launch a new collection called Harmony. This collection consists of seven models, and each of them are limited in production. The collection is a throwback to the history of Vacheron Constantin, in which it is inspired by the complications and designs of the yesteryear. The seven first referencesRead More
Revolution
Breguet’s claims to fame are many, to put it mildly –his list of firsts, and improvements on the designs of others, is one of the longest in the entire history of horology (his work on and experiments with escapements alone would keep a bevy of grad students in horological history busy for years, if there […]
Deployant
Truth to be told, it has been quite some time since we were intrigued by a Franck Muller watch. In the recent history, Franck Muller seemed to have diverted from their ethos and created humdrum pieces like the Conquistador GPG and the Infinity Ronde. The 7 Days Power Reserve Skeleton, however, is a little outstanding though. Franck MullerRead More
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The history of dive watches date back to 1950s, when Blancpain and Rolex came up with the Fifty Fathoms and the Submariner respectively. These are not just mere devices that tell time; they are tool watches that provide information to assist people in carrying out their work. They were also immensely popular, due to their robustnessRead More
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Revolution
Some brands have a true luxury problem, and amongst them is Vacheron Constantin for sure. The Maison’s rich history has resulted in a private collection of 1,200 pieces, and the problem is that all of them can be considered highlights of their genre. Yet such a wealth of timepieces also offers numerous possibilities to create […]
Revolution
If there were an Academy Award in the watch world for brand that’s evolved not only furthest, but also the most intelligently, from its origins, the ladies and gentleman of the Academy might well have to give the award to Panerai. For much of its history a somewhat obscure maker of instruments for the Italian […]
Revolution
The Rolex Submariner, the Omega Seamaster Professional and the Cartier Santos Galbee are classics that are more often than not worn on a bracelet. You’d wonder sometimes if these watches would have been the successes they are now if they had only been offered on a strap. Even more so for watches like the Audemars […]
Revolution
Gold & Color is the title of Piaget’s new exhibition in their Time Gallery. Two words that summarize a large portion of Piaget’s rich history. When Piaget wrote watchmaking history by introducing the 2mm thin manual wind caliber 9P in 1957, it was not about technical prowess, but much more about opening up a world […]
Revolution
In 2011, Corum debuted a stunning world-first with the Golden Bridge Automatic movement, the self-winding cal. C0 313. For the first time in the history of wristwatches, a movement incorporated a linear oscillating weight, shuttling parallel to the baguette movement on guide rails to wind the mainspring. Although the La Chaux-de-Fonds watch company has kept its […]
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Revolution
Junghans is a brand that most people know from their clocks and radio-controlled watches. In both categories the brand has made quite a name for itself, often combining innovative design with the latest technical developments. But what Junghans decisively gave a place in watchmaking history is its collaboration with architect/designer Max Bill. As an apprentice […]
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Girard Perregaux is one of the Grande Dames of horology…and this year, they celebrate their 220th anniversary. They are showcasing 220 years of watchmaking history and expertise in a travelling exhibition. I will cover the event and exhibition today, and next week, will present you with high resolution photographs of two of the most outstandingRead More
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The Hamilton Watch Company is one with an illustrious history. Founded in Lancaster, Pensylvania in the US in 1892, nearly 120 years ago, it stood right at the forefront of high precision watchmaking. They focussed in those days principally in the production of railroad watches. Pocket watches which often with two timezones though sometimes onlyRead More
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Vacheron Constantin is one of the three Grande Dames of watchmaking…the othe two being Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. Interestingly, it is currently the only one which is within a large group, in this case Groupe Richemont, which count amongst the members of its stable luminaries like A. Lange & Sohne, IWC, Jaeger LeCoultre, Cartier,Read More
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I had the pleasure to organize a Grand Seiko evening for fans…to help fans be more informed and have more information on the marvel of Grand Seiko (indeed there is a model called The Marvel in the history of Grand Seiko). Some pictures of the event: Attentatively listening to Akashi-san from Seiko: Masuda-san assembling aRead More
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Hodinkee
Year over year, it's becoming increasingly important for luxury brands to back their products with traceability for precious materials like gold and gemstones, both for regulatory and compliance bodies and for conscious consumers. Traceability has become a greater concern with the rise of counterfeiting and the growing demand for transparency in ethical material sourcing. We have seen several watch and jewelry brands taking matters into their own hands by establishing their own traceability programs, from Rolex to Breitling, as well as the entire LVMH group. Here, many brands are relying on the expansion of blockchain technology to create digital passports for their wares. However, one company is taking things even deeper to a forensic level. In 2016, Haelixa started with a mission to streamline traceability within supply chains by developing a patented DNA-based technology to verify product origin and authenticity. "The first application of our DNA markers started at the supply chain level with raw materials," explains Klemens Link, Haelixa's Director of Anti-Counterfeiting and Brand Protection. "We began with textiles but have since expanded into precious metals as well as gemstones. We can apply our DNA-based nanoparticles to rough stones directly at the mine or to rough gold directly at the refinery." On the other end of the spectrum, Haelixa can also implement its technology beyond raw materials and directly to finished goods. "Here, the value proposition is different...
Monochrome
The Swiss Watch Federation has just released its figures as of the end of March 2026. The month of March closed with a 1% decline in watch exports. More importantly, it provides a view of the trend for the first quarter of the year. Total exports reached CHF 6.2 billion, representing a modest increase of […]
Deployant
Live hands on with the Angelus, a quarter repeater. The watch is available in rose gold and stainless steel case, with a case size of 38mm diameter.
Worn & Wound
IWC is not a brand that quickly moves on from a release. Rather, any new watch is also the launch of a platform that will, for several years at least, see new models in terms of colors, sizes, materials, and complications. In doing so, their catalog is vast yet focused, as each line is thematic yet deeply explored. Since relaunching in 2023, the Genta-derived, integrated bracelet, luxury tool watch that is the Ingenieur has steadily expanded to now cover three sizes, multiple materials, many colors, and one complication, totaling 12 SKUs (before Watches & Wonders releases). For 2026, the expansion continues with several new references, including a tourbillon, and two models that kind of blew me away. I had the fortune of getting to spend some time with IWC’s 2026 novelties before the big show, and while several are striking (I mean, that full Ceralume perpetual is one of the most bonkers watches I’ve seen in a while), the two that I have kept thinking about are the Ingenieur automatic in green ceramic, and the full titanium perpetual. Starting with the former, IWC is no stranger to ceramic. In fact, they debuted the first ceramic watch in 1986. While many brands have adopted the material since, IWC’s earthy palette of green, khaki, and blue retains a certain understated charm. The 42mm Ingenieur has existed in black ceramic for at least a year now. While sleek, stealthy, and a logical edition, it wasn’t all too surprising. The full green ceramic, however, is a bit....
SJX Watches
Following a belter of an anniversary year during which the brand launched, among other things, the world’s most complicated wristwatch and a quarter-ton astronomical clock, Vacheron Constantin (VC) kicks off Watches & Wonders with something more low-profile, both literally and figuratively - the Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin. While small in stature at just 7.35 mm thick, it’s what’s inside the counts - namely, an all-new micro-rotor calibre with 80 hours of power reserve and seemingly limitless potential. Initial thoughts The new Overseas Ultra-Thin is little different from the model that preceded it, though the ref. 2000V remained rare enough throughout its production run that the format still feels fresh. It also helps that despite the visual similarity, the ref. 2500V is a completely new watch inside and out, catapulting a model that arguably lagged behind its one obvious competitor into instant parity. The ref. 2500V is best understood from the inside out. Audemars Piguet replaced the well-loved historical cal. 2121 with its more modern cal. 7121 in 2022, and now it’s VC’s turn, being the last of the big three purveyors of mass-market fine watchmaking to replace its aging Jaeger-LeCoultre cal. 920-based movements with an in-house alternative. The reluctance to replace this venerable platform is understandable. What VC calls the cal. 1120 is one of the last movements of its generation still in use, and carries a historical weight missing from many moder...
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SJX Watches
One of the most influential watchmakers of the post-quartz era has re-emerged with a groundbreaking slow-beat oscillator that cleverly avoids the amplitude constraints typical of such constructions. The Pulse60 is the latest project from Dominique Renaud’s eponymous workshop Haute Horlogerie Dominique Renaud (HHDR), and the first watch to bear his full name in a decade. The Pulse60 runs at just 7,200 times per hour - a frequency of just 1 Hz – a quarter the rate of a conventional movement. Ordinarily, such a slow beat would leave the movement susceptible to external forces, but here it has been combined with a proprietary escapement that overcomes the challenge. While the technical ingenuity is expected given Mr Renaud’s pedigree, the relatively accessible price of under CHF50,000 is unexpected, especially given the state of the market today. Initial thoughts It’s been a decade since Dominique Renaud came out of retirement, but his most public contributions since then have come under the Renaud Tixier banner. Latecomers to independent watchmaking may be less familiar with Mr Renaud’s work, but he played an important role in establishing the contemporary high-end watchmaking landscape. The Pulse60 is the first watch to carry the Dominique Renaud name since the exotic and expensive DR01 Twelve First, which was not made in significant numbers. But unlike its short-lived predecessor, which featured a low-amplitude, high-frequency escapement of Mr Renaud’s own des...
Fratello
Hublot regularly makes headlines. Most of the time, however, these headlines revolve around marketing and branding. A new superstar ambassador or a crazy limited edition is more likely to generate exposure than pure watchmaking prowess. Now, in part, this is down to Hublot’s doing. The house focuses on being radical, and it doesn’t mind stepping […] Visit Talking In-House Movement Manufacturing With Hublot’s Chief Product Officer, Sadry Keiser to read the full article.
SJX Watches
The Expérimentale 1 debuted last year as the capstone to the first quarter-millennium of the house of Breguet. We attended the launch event and shared immediate hands-on impressions, but watches like this don’t come along every day, or even every year, so it’s worth a fresh look now that some time has passed and the dust has settled. On paper, the Expérimentale 1 arguably represents the highest form of the mechanical watch. To understand the technical details of what makes the watch so groundbreaking, this in-depth analysis should be considered required reading. In short, the cal. 7250 housed within introduces the first-ever contactless mechanical escapement that simultaneously achieves two feats that Abraham-Louis Breguet himself toiled to accomplish throughout his entire career, namely, an oil-free escapement and stable amplitude. The Expérimentale 1 delivers both, and more. That said, as a wristwatch the Expérimentale 1 is tantalisingly imperfect owing to its polarising design. In fairness, this arguably says more about the difficultly of communicating technical breakthroughs to a non-technical public than it does about the design process at Breguet. It could also be the result of Breguet learning lessons from its own past. A modern (Marine) chronometer The Expérimentale 1 is most notable for its novel escapement and what it signals about the future direction of the brand, but it’s also worth analysing the updated Marine-style case, which is the most challeng...
Worn & Wound
There’s an old saying that if you wait long enough, eventually everything will just become a G-SHOCK collaboration. Maybe that’s not 100% true, but sometimes it feels that way. Few brands have the breadth of collaborative partners as G-SHOCK. Can you really think of any other entity that would release a product with Wu-Tang Clan and the Surfrider Foundation and a blockchain based open world game? Only G-SHOCK is really capable of this type of reach. It speaks to their huge appeal to collectors across many, many different verticals, and a strong core following among a very specific type of watch lover. The culture around G-SHOCK collecting is completely distinct from any other watch collecting subset, and it’s reflected in the huge variety of their mainline watches as well as limited editions released with their many collaborative partners. Streetwear brands are perhaps an obvious example of ways that G-SHOCK finds synergy with enthusiasts in other disciplines, and their latest release with Anti Social Social Club is a great example of that strategy. For those who are less familiar with the streetwear world, a brief primer on ASSC might be in order. The LA based brand was founded in 2015 by Andrew Buenaflor, who has explained that the inspiration for the brand and its aesthetic comes from his experiences with mental health struggles. The brand has risen to popularity thanks to being worn by celebrities and many collaborations with other brands, including Rimowa, Hel...
SJX Watches
Urwerk continues to iterate its most accessible model with the UR-100V “LightSpeed” Ceramic. The Lightspeed is essentially a variation of an earlier model, with ceramic composite replacing carbon composite. The ceramic composite incorporates fibreglass and carbon fibre, giving it a textured surface and greater strength. Though it’s relatively affordable compared to other Urwerk models, the UR-100V still retains the brand’s signature elements, including a wandering hours display and various astronomical-time indicators on the dial. Initial thoughts The UR-100V now exists in a multitude of variations, perhaps too many, but the Lightspeed stands out as one of the most interesting in both material and style. The ceramic composite case is appealing for both its appearance and utility – it is hard, strong, and lightweight – and is being used for the first time by Urwerk. It also doesn’t cost that much more than earlier versions of the model, making this iteration more compelling. More broadly, I would have liked Urwerk to vary the display across the UR-100V line, beyond the case material, making each iteration more distinct. As they stand, most share the same dial and indications, with only the case changing for each edition. Light and white Because the case is a ceramic composite rather than pure ceramic, it has a textured surface with a slight glossiness. These characteristics stem from the fibreglass and carbon fibre sheets within the composite, explaining the w...
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