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Kari Voutilainen Minute Repeater MR10
Just pictures of the piece unique Minute Repeater from Kari Voutilainen. This piece was an entry to the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève Complicated Watch catagory.
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Deployant
Just pictures of the piece unique Minute Repeater from Kari Voutilainen. This piece was an entry to the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève Complicated Watch catagory.
Deployant
I am quite fascinated by the world of the Grand Seiko. Here is a real atypical watch manufacturer. Hard core to the bone…and yet not manufacturing at the traditional heart of watchmaking in Switzerland. Their superb factory and workshops, especially the Micro Artisans Studio in Shiojiri, where I visited some years ago, make wonderful products.Read More
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Kari Voutilainen’s simple time only watch…a la Dufour’s Simplicity is the Observertoire. I had the oppportunity to photograph this masterpiece in Motiers in January, after the SIHH when I visited with some good friends. The dial shows great restraint, and looks extremely handsome. The rose engine turned dial is made onsite at Kari’s premises. IRead More
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The Hamilton Watch Company is one with an illustrious history. Founded in Lancaster, Pensylvania in the US in 1892, nearly 120 years ago, it stood right at the forefront of high precision watchmaking. They focussed in those days principally in the production of railroad watches. Pocket watches which often with two timezones though sometimes onlyRead More
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Urwerk is always amazing. The watches they make are not strictly for telling the time, but avant garde sculptures which mesmerises because of the way it reminds one of science fiction creations. One can only imagine the designers at Urwerk: the talented Martin Frei and Felix Baumgartner have spent (or mis-spent) their youth marvelling atRead More
Deployant
More novelties from ALS in SIHH 2011 Lange also introduced some new entry level watches to complete the Saxonia line. The line is now quite complete with the Saxonia Automatic, the Saxonial Flat Handwound, and the Saxonia World Time. First the Saxonia Automatic. The movement is a new movement, with a full rotor instead ofRead More
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The JLC Triptyque Grand Complication…announced in SIHH 2007. This is a magnificent watch. I recently managed to have the opportunity to photograph this piece at a local dealer’s where it was on its way to being delivered to its owner. One of the more complicated watches made by JLC, the watch is based on theRead More
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Vianney Halter is an exceptional watchmaker. Supremely creative in his approach. His first watch to be unveilled to the world is a result of a collaboration with Jeff Barnes. The legend goes that Jeff and Vianney were having a drink, when the latter challenged the former, who is an industrial designer, to design a watchRead More
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Watchscape of the Patek Philippe Ref. 5101 Tourbillon in a rectangular case with form movement in platinum. A gem of a rare watch.
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Interesting dive watch…big, bold, beautiful: the Richard Mille RM28
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This is the iconic watch of the century…created by grand master watchmaker Philippe Dufour…after many years of only making super complicated watches…his portfolio before the Simplicity was the world premiere of a Grand et Petite Sonnerie on a wristwatch, and the world premiere of a wristwatch featuring dual, escapements to a single train known asRead More
Hodinkee
"If you build it, they will come." It's the age-old quote about watchmaking, wrapped somewhat curiously in a sentimental movie about baseball, if I'm interpreting things right. A. Lange & Söhne is finally having its overdue moment among collectors for doing what it's always done: making beautiful, mechanically impressive watches with a more traditional, high-touch approach. Sticking with the baseball analogy, it's the Milwaukee Brewers playing old-school small ball and getting into the World Series. Nostalgia hits hard, and the one constant through all the years, Ray, has been watchmaking—or something like that. And yet, when you get down to it, something has been missing from the Lange lineup—a gap for true deep-cut collectors who begged for a certain something that disappeared from the catalog in the late 2000s. People yearned for bracelets, with the word Wellendorff hanging in the air long after the brand ended its partnership with the Pforzheim jewelry maker. When the Lange-loving Hodinkee team saw the new Datograph Perpetual on bracelet, in all its heavy glory, it was an impressive culmination of past and present. "It reminds of us of all that once was good and it could be again." “Wellendorff” Bracelets and the Secondary Market I was recently reminded that my first experience with an A. Lange & Söhne was one on a Wellendorff bracelet. I was attending a local RedBar meet-up when a noted collector of the brand walked up wearing a Datograph Perpetual in platin...
Worn & Wound
There are many crossovers between watches and other spheres, from diving and broader sports to exploration of the skies and outer space. Possibly one of the most poignant and deeply rooted connections is between watches and cars. This link largely traces back to early automobile racing and the need for precise speed and distance calculations. Pocket chronographs with tachymetric scales and specialized dashboard-mounted chronometers became standard equipment. The popularization of the wristwatch went on to evolve this relationship, allowing race car drivers to calculate lap times and average speeds directly on their wrists. This is where we saw the birth of models like the Omega Speedmaster, the Heuer Autavia and Monaco, and the Rolex Daytona. It would be a bit later until we saw the debut of the chronograph we’re here to discuss today – but more on that later.When it comes to cross-industry partnerships, I would go so far as to say the one between watches and car racing is one of the most significant – and lucrative. The Monaco and the Daytona have gone on to bear additional significance because of their wearers, bringing the models out of the racing world itself and into the pop culture zeitgeist with actor Steve McQueen sporting the Monaco in the film Le Mans and actor and racer Paul Newman sporting the Daytona. Thanks to these associations, these models have gone on to achieve millions if not tens of millions of dollars at the auction block, with the Paul Newman D...
Monochrome
Watchmakers have chased precision since the dawn of portable timekeeping in the 16th century, but it wasn’t until the late 17th century that watches became accurate enough to support minute hands. A single hour hand was the norm for over a century, as accuracy was off by hours per day, but thanks to the balance […]
WatchAdvice
Raymond Weil’s Toccata Heritage wears its inspiration on its sleeve, but is the flash backed up by substance? Let’s find out! What We Love: Elegant, flowing case Beautiful movement Incredible price point What We Don’t: Soft but fragile strap Power reserve feels low compared to on-paper Is luxury ever attainable? Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 8/10 The definition of luxury is, for the most part, anyone’s guess. Maybe it’s the hundred-million-dollar, feature-laden superyacht crewed by Playboy models, or perhaps it’s something as mundane as a carton of eggs at the grocery store. I find that luxury is relative to one’s financial circumstances: a want that’s just slightly out of reach, not entirely necessary to one’s sanity or physical wellbeing, but something whose acquisition feels like reaching a new level in life. This is entirely different from a pipe dream, such as the aforementioned superyacht, but the watch world often treats the two as one and the same. Luxury watches aren’t often considered truly luxurious until they cross a certain price threshold, usually somewhere in the high four or five figures, if not six. But ‘accessible luxury’ isn’t quite the oxymoron the industry might have you believe, and Raymond Weil is proof. Since 1976, the independent watchmaker has sought to make traditional elegance more attainable, offering classically styled timepieces at comparatively acce...
Hodinkee
We're back in the saddle again, riding the bucking bronco that is the auction market. But as a salve to the wounds of the usual suspects of whatever the market is hyped on these days, today we're looking at the Monaco Legend Auction catalog, which takes place October 31 and November 1 in—you guessed it—Monaco. I won't be there this time (though I am hoping to return in the future), but here's my view from afar. I haven't seen any watches in person, so I won't go into depth on quality—do your own research—but hopefully this gives you a jumping-off point. The Top Lots Lot 50, Rolex ref. 6062, with an estimate of €1,000,000 to €2,000,000 As I like to do, I feel like I have to acknowledge some of the top lots. The auction feels more like a return to Monaco Legend's older catalog, where much of it is super rare, but it's not the loud, flashy stuff you'd find elsewhere. But to have your top watch be a very, very clean Rolex ref. 6062 in steel, carrying an estimate of €1,000,000 to €2,000,000, is a massive flex. The watch comes from the collection of Auro Montanari and, frankly, the estimate may be a bit conservative. Watches like this, especially in this condition, are rare, and the buyer pool is also thin. The watch could go for triple the low estimate without surprising me, as long as the right buyers don't already have one. Lot 208, Audemars Piguet Triple Calendar Moon Phase, estimate € 200,000 – 400,000. Lot 181, Patek Philippe ref. 3974, estimate € ...
Hodinkee
Zenith, the storied Swiss brand founded more than a century ago and known for its El Primero high-beat chronograph movement, will undergo major restructuring, forcing the LVMH-owned company to significantly reduce its workforce and scale back production and distribution, with plans to reposition the marque as a high-horology, low-volume watchmaker. The Zenith overhaul follows years of financial losses by the brand, founded by Georges Favre-Jacot in Le Locle, Switzerland, in 1865. Chief Executive Officer Benoit De Clerck addressed employees at the company's headquarters this week, announcing the restructuring and warning that the company could eliminate as many as 100 jobs, or about half the workforce at the manufacture. To complete the reorganization and reposition the brand by 2029, the company may also eliminate another 100 positions, including the watch brand's entire international team. A Zenith watchmaker. Management and executives are now in a formal "consultation process" with employees over the next three weeks to negotiate the terms of the restructuring and job cuts. Unia, the Swiss employees' trade union representing workers at the manufacturer, will meet with employees next week and join management in the consultation process, according to people familiar with the matter who spoke on condition of anonymity because they were not permitted to comment publicly. "We confirm that a staff consultation process was initiated today [Thursday] concerning a proposed ...
Worn & Wound
At my rather hippie-dippie public elementary school, the entire student body performed an ocean conservation-themed musical number every year in a school-wide assembly. We decorated hats for different ocean ecosystems, and music was provided by a local band that had certainly shared a smoke with Steve Miller back in the day. It was my favorite event of the school year and while each grade level performed their own song, I most remember the “California Sea Otter” song assigned to fourth graders: a surfer-inspired romp through California kelp forests and the critters within. If you’re yelling, “get back to watches” at the screen right now, don’t worry—Oris has your back. In tune with their history of ocean conservation-benefitting models, the new Kelp Forest Limited Edition Aquis Date diver finally gives the spotlight to one of the under-appreciated and most vital aquatic biomes. Oris is no stranger to beefy dive watches, and the Kelp Forest Edition is based on the brand’s excellent Aquis Date model, with a 41.5mm case diameter. It boasts a properly robust 300 meters of water resistance and a unidirectional bezel, giving it legitimate diver pedigree beyond just the style. A screw-down crown and sleek tapered three-link bracelet with brushed and polished finish make it an elegant but heavy-duty piece. The Oris Calibre 733 movement inside allows for a day-date function and 41 hours of power reserve. It’s a properly beefy beast at 12.9mm of thickness and 49m...
Fratello
There are watchmakers, and then there is the “Watchmaker of Watchmakers,” a heavy title that Jaeger-LeCoultre earned the hard way by supplying high-end calibers to the holy trinity of horology for decades. Since 1833, the Vallée de Joux watchmaker has produced over 1,400 calibers. While that alone is a huge flex, JLC has also dedicated […] Visit The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon 36mm Returns In A Classy Pink Gold Case to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
“In times of war or uncertainty there is a special breed of warrior ready to answer our nation’s call. A common man with uncommon desire to succeed… I am that man.” –U.S. Navy SEAL Code A Note Writing about the military – especially those who served our nation in the U.S. Armed Forces – is something I consider to be an honor, and it’s a responsibility I take seriously. The risk of sensationalizing or exploiting veteran experiences for media or corporate gain is too great and happens too frequently to leave that acknowledgement unstated. My respect for and personal relationships with the military population sometimes leads me to be overly cautious in my approach to these subjects to protect the privacy of the individuals or the institutions with which they are affiliated. Some experiences are off the record, and that is okay. The spirit of the story remains. I also want to acknowledge that discussions of military history can be divisive. I am a U.S. military historian by training and that shapes how I think and write. But my perspective is just a small percentage of the many globally nuanced lenses that can be applied to this topic. The watch world is international, diverse, and certainly strong enough to withstand the contributions of many – even if our conclusions differ. I am a civilian. After leaving school, I had the good fortune to work as a liaison to the U.S. Office of Veterans Affairs. Because of my educational background, I knew the facts and...
Hodinkee
This week on The Business of Watches, we sit down with Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, founder and CEO of Fears Watches, for an in-depth discussion. Nicholas has packed a lot into his 39 years. For the last decade, he's helmed the brand, originally founded in Bristol, England, in 1846 by his great-great-great-grandfather, Edwin Fears. Incredibly, Bowman-Scargill wasn't even aware of the Fears brand and family connection when he decided to train as a watchmaker at Rolex in the U.K. That move into watches followed an ill-timed foray into investment banking on the eve of the 2008 Global Financial Crisis. Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, the fourth managing director of Fears Watches. By the time Bowman-Scargill restarted the brand in 2016, it had been dormant for nearly four decades. He says its revival has been an exercise in business challenges, often met by the art of project management, a skill set he and his fellow Brits are uniquely adept at. Fears has now grown to about 15 people and returned to its roots in Bristol. From flirting with bankruptcy to implementing a dress code for employees and overseeing the design and production of a perpetual calendar model, Bowman-Scargill relays the dramatic tale of how the company has survived and thrived in the crowded, competitive arena of mid-tier timepieces. It's a heck of a story that offers heaps of insight for any watch enthusiast, collector, or small business owner. From what he learned and has applied at Fears from his time at...
SJX Watches
Independent watchmaking is often discussed as a world apart from the work of major brands. But the distinction becomes less clear when we look at how specific watches are made and who makes them, especially when it comes to artisanal watchmaking within industrial brands. From this perspective, the qualities that once distinguished the work of independent watchmakers are increasingly evident within major brands. Yet historical manufactures remain under-appreciated for exceptional hand finishing, distinctive movement architecture, and small-scale production that would attract considerable attention with an independent’s name on the dial. An objective measure Back in 2022, we published a widely cited market map of the fine watchmaking sector based on the concept of watchmaker-hours. The goal was to look beyond brand positioning and establish an objective, quantitative basis for comparing different approaches to production. The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Handwerkskunst is a prime example of small-scale artisanal watchmaking taking place within a larger organisation The methodology was simple: take a company’s available employee hours — essentially the headcount multiplied by the number of hours in the working year — and divide it by its total output, in terms of watches per year. The result is a theoretical maximum number of human hours available for each watch. The cal. 31-260 inside the Patek Philippe In-Line Perpetual Calendar ref. 5236P typifies the industrial-haut...
Fratello
As we’ve come to expect, Lebois & Co revives mid-century designs with care. The brand now offers its Heritage Small Seconds models in three new interpretations. Each draws from a different moment in the company’s past. Moreover, the Numeral, Baton, and Script share the same refined case and COSC-certified movement. This allows collectors to choose […] Visit Harnessing Heritage: The Lebois & Co Numeral, Baton, And Script Small Seconds to read the full article.
SJX Watches
The Renaud Tixier Monday Skeleton reveals the young independent’s debut movement in greater detail, pairing its inventive “dancer” micro-rotor with extensively reworked bridges and elaborate hand finishing. The skeletonised design gives the Monday a more distinctive identity, turning the movement’s substantial thickness into an asset through its layered architecture. Initial thoughts The Monday Skeleton feels like an important step for Renaud Tixier, an independent brand founded in 2024 by Dominique Renaud, an industry veteran and co-founder of Renaud & Papi, and Julien Tixier, a young watchmaker with a broad skillset that encompasses everything from prototyping to finishing. Most skeletonised watches share an inherent weakness, which is that they tend to resemble one another — stripping away the dial removes much of what distinguishes one watch from the next. But Renaud Tixier’s identity is rooted primarily in its engineering and craftsmanship, and the brand’s debut calibre is sufficiently distinctive that revealing it arguably gives the Monday Skeleton a stronger identity than those of its predecessors with conventional dials, which felt somewhat generic. The Monday’s raison d’être is its clever “dancer” micro-rotor system, which aims to increase winding efficiency with an integrated spring-loaded flywheel. This approach was developed by Mr Renaud, who was inspired by the energy recovery systems used in hybrid automotive powertrains. This system of...
Worn & Wound
Hublot is a brand that has long endured scrutiny for its bold and out-of-the-box approach to watchmaking, and frankly, I’ve never quite understood why the industry and the collector sphere has relentlessly put the brand under fire. In many other instances, brands have been revered for being a disrupter, so why not Hublot? The inaugural design that launched the brand back in 1980 was the first to combine a precious metal case with a rubber strap, laying the foundation for what the brand now calls the “Art of Fusion.” However, you have to understand that at the time, this was both risky and revelatory – rubber straps weren’t nearly as prevalent as they are today, and pairing one with a precious metal as opposed to stainless steel was unheard of. Now, we see rubber straps in most brands’ repertoires often combined with a precious metal. So, in fact, Hublot set the standard for something that was once audacious but now commonplace and considered totally “normal” (whatever normal really means) – maybe we should give Hublot a little more credit and not be so quick to judge. Today, we are fully celebrating that model that started it all – at the time, called the Classic Original and now known as the Classic Fusion with the aptly named Tributo. Beyond the innovative combination of materials, the original composition established some specific design codes, including the porthole shaped case with 12 prominent screws securing the bezel framing a plain and totally ...
Monochrome
Founded in 1893 by Johannes Dürrstein in the Saxon town of Glashütte, Union Glashütte set out to make high-quality German watchmaking accessible to a wider audience. Today, part of the Swatch Group, the brand combines traditional craftsmanship with distinctive design and value for money. Its affinity for classic cars is captured in the retro Belisar […]
Fratello
It’s Sunday morning, so it’s time for a hot cup of coffee, some breakfast, and another installment in our ongoing Sunday Morning Showdown series. This week, the question is whether you’ll go modern or vintage. Daan picked the updated Tudor Royal that debuted at Watches and Wonders earlier this year. It goes up against Jorg’s […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Royal Vs. Rolex Oysterquartz Datejust to read the full article.
Hodinkee
When my dad was teaching me to play poker, he imparted one very clear piece of advice: Never play poker at a casino (if you've ever seen Rounders, you'll understand why). To this day, I love playing poker, and other games like slap, hearts, gin rummy, and euchre have also found a warm place in my heart, to the point that good-quality playing cards have become a necessity in my life. And there are plenty of great cards out there, but one thing many will find, once they start exploring the world of playing cards, is that novelty cards are almost universally terrible. Today, I'm happy to introduce a set that isn't, because James Lamdin and our friends over at Analog:Shift have teamed up with Éditions de la Tour to produce a new set of playing cards, and they are absolutely worth a look. Éditions de la Tour first came to my attention last year when they introduced their first deck of cards, a thematic deck with designs inspired by iconic steel sports watches like the Submariner or Royal Oak. Now, we have their follow-up, a deck whose designs draw inspiration from vintage watches of all sorts. But where last year's release focused on four special designs repeated on the face cards, this year's features 52 wholly unique designs, with each card showing an illustration of a different watch. The watches featured follow no set theme and include everything from Doxas and Tudors to Cartiers and Pateks, with the 52-watch collection having been curated by Analog:Shift founder James La...
Fratello
Another Friday, another list. This week, we pick five of our favorite recent field watches. The category always sparks debate. What began with World War I “trench watches” has evolved into a versatile range of functional, reliable, legible timekeeping companions ready for all kinds of adventures. That broader definition brings plenty of options to the […] Visit The Top 5 Recent Field Watches to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Today, Christopher Ward officially introduces what some might call one of the worst kept secrets in indie watchmaking. We all knew that a dressy version of the brand’s Loco was coming – their British Watchmakers’ Day limited edition kind of gave it away. No one really thought that would be a one off, right? The all new C1 Loco Classic arrives as a fully formed product line within the brand’s Atelier lineup, and offers collectors who might have bristled at the aggressively sporty, angular C12 Loco a more refined option built on the same caliber with the same dramatic architecture. The C1 Loco Classic is built on a 41mm 904L stainless steel “Light-catcher” case with a mix of high polished surfaces and contrasting brushed elements. The case features a pronounced groove running through the middle section, following through to the lugs, and has a curvy, rounded appearance. It’s a thick case, measuring a total of 14.1mm tall, but over 5mm of that height belongs to the domed crystal – Christopher Ward says the case itself is 8.55mm thick. Despite its overall height, Christopher Ward has gone to great lengths to create a softer and more organic shape for the Loco Classic, and while it might not work on every wrist, visually it certainly meets the brief of a more refined Loco. As an owner of a C12 Loco, I can say that while I enjoy the case quite a bit, the real draw of the watch is the movement and the dial, and the way those two aspects of the piece are integr...
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