Deployant
New: Vianney Halter x Massena Lab Old Soul
Introducing Old Soul, an interesting collaboration from Massena Lab with Vianney Halter, masterfully blending the legendary aesthetics of both.
Results for Above the Date Window
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Quill & Pad
New Release: M.A.D.Editions x Yinka Ilori: M.A.D.1S ‘Grow Your Dreams’
Color has always been a very important part of the M.A.D.Editions collection, but these new models by British-Nigerian artist/designer Yinka Ilori take color to a whole new level. These watches may have been inspired by nature, but rarely does nature look this vibrant . . . or this crazy!
Hodinkee
Introducing: M.A.D.Editions x Yinka Ilori M.A.D.1S 'Grow Your Dreams' Limited Edition
The fan-favorite M.A.D.1S returns in a collaboration with a London-based, British-Nigerian multi-disciplinary artist and designer for a colorful new take on last year's slim release.
SJX Watches
Prix Gaïa 2025 Awarded to Dr Helmut Crott for Scholarship
Awarded annually by the Musée International d’Horlogerie (MIH), one of Switzerland’s leading timekeeping museums, the Prix Gaïa recognises individuals who have contributed to watchmaking in three categories. This year’s winner in the “History [and] Research” category is Dr Helmut Crott. Best known for having founded the eponymous auction house, Dr Crott is also an author, scholar, and former owner of Urban Jürgensen, amongst other roles. In 2021 he authored Le Cadran, an in-depth study of dials and dial making techniques of 20th century wristwatches. Le Cadran by Dr Helmut Crott Past winners of the Prix Gaïa include Reinhard Meis, Jonathan Betts, Pierre-Yves Donzé, Kathleen Pritschard, and Ludwig Oechslin, all scholars and authors who have contributed substantively to the body of knowledge in the field. Alongside Dr Crott, this year’s winners are Jean-Jacques Paolini for “Entrepreneurship”, and Roger W. Smith for “Craftsmanship [and] Creation”. As the successor to Georges Daniels’ brand of English watchmaking, Mr Smith now produces watches under his own name, with his achievements and timepieces well known. Jean-Jacques Paolini Mr Paolini, on the other hand, is less known outside the industry, but he is arguably most responsible for building the enterprise that’s the largest employer in La Chaux-de-Fonds. In 1980, Mr Paolini took over his family’s case and bracelet manufacturing business, developing its operations sufficiently that it was acq...
Fratello
A Return To Elegant Simplicity: Five Watch Options With Arabic Numerals
Arabic numerals are often recognized as one of the easiest means to read the time at a glance. For centuries, Roman numerals were the fashionable standard for time-telling. These days, Arabic numerals, alongside markers, are now considered more of a “standard” means of telling the time. This is particularly relevant in the digital age, when […] Visit A Return To Elegant Simplicity: Five Watch Options With Arabic Numerals to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
New Release: Greubel Forsey Nano Foudroyante Flying Tourbillon Flyback Chronograph
Foudroyante, which is French for lightning bolt), chronographs have always been very rare because in measuring fractions of a second by driving a hand that rotates every second uses a lot of energy. With the Nano Foudroyante: Greubel Forsey has solved the inherent drawbacks in foudroyante chronographs by using nanotechnology to reduce power consumption by an incredible 1,800 times!
Teddy Baldassarre
King Seiko SPB389 Review
Everyone knows about Seiko and Grand Seiko, but…what exactly is King Seiko? Well, King Seiko is one of those cult-classic throwbacks that dodges easy categorization or market segmentation. The 1960s elegance and sheer retro vibes exuded by this collection is charming and a little quirky in a world where big brother Grand Seiko has reached downright mainstream status. In 2021, the King Seiko KSK SJE083 resurrected the historic KSK model and the collection has slowly grown since then under the Seiko Luxe collection of higher-end offerings. Here we see the Seiko SPB389, which is a mid-century-inspired watch that will appeal to the kind of person who loves being early to a trend. Seiko Luxe Explained First off I wanted to address the Seiko Luxe collection, because I know not everyone is up to date with the tiers of Seiko. Where standard Seiko is your more classic, accessible fare, the Seiko Luxe collection is the higher-end series that consists of offerings like King Seiko as well as Presage watches with special touches like enamel dials and the more refined pieces in the Prospex collection. Seiko Luxe generally starts around the $750 mark and goes up to over $3,000, so the range is quite broad. Personally, the only Seiko watch I’ve ever purchased is from the Seiko Luxe collection (an enamel dial Presage I reviewed here) and it really is so much watch for the money. King Seiko SPB389 Case and Bracelet When King Seiko first returned to the scene a couple of years back, it w...
Hodinkee
Photo Report: Watch Week Aspen Returns For Its Second Year
The second annual Watch Week Aspen brought 16 brands and over 200 attendees together to share in the passion for watchmaking amidst the beautiful backdrop of Aspen, Colorado.
Deployant
New: Bovet Récital 12 with unique stone dials
Bovet adds to their first ever integrated bracelet collection - the Récital 12 with two new models fitted with stone dials.
Fratello
Fratello’s Top 5 Favorite Quartz Watches Under €500
Another Friday, another list! This week, we’re finishing our trilogy of lists focusing on affordable watches under €500. We started the series two weeks ago with our five favorite watches from big brands. Last week, we looked at our five favorites from small brands. This week, we’ll end the series with our five favorite affordable […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Favorite Quartz Watches Under €500 to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Casio Taps AI for Latest G-Shock
Casio’ latest addition to its famous, shock-resistant sports watch is the G-Shock MT-G MTG-B4000 that was designed with the aid of artificial intelligence (AI). According to Casio, the new MT-G’s design was refined by AI using factors like shock resistance and machinability, resulting in an sleeker profile that departs from the chunky and flat style of the typical G-Shock. As part of the higher-end MT-G line that combines metal with resin, the solar-powered MTG-B4000 has a stainless steel inner case along with an outer case in carbon composite. More notably, the bezel has been polished with the Sallaz flat polishing technique that’s also known as Zaratsu and more often applied to premium mechanical watches by other Japanese watchmakers. The new MT-G is made in Japan like all high-end G-Shock models Initial thoughts Casio’s first attempt at an AI-designed G-Shock was the G-D001 Dream Project #2 in solid, 18k gold made to mark the 40th anniversary of the G-Shock. It was a one-off, unlike the limited edition vintage remake that was also in 18k gold. While the Dream Project #2 was impressive in its form and heft, the open-worked design was a little weird. It looks both sci-fi and fantasy, but with the wrong proportions of each. The new MT-G, on the other hand, looks more conventional and appealing. It still looks like a G-Shock, but different enough to be distinct. In fact, AI has argued improved the MT-G style, evolving it from the robot-like form of before to somethi...
Teddy Baldassarre
What Is A Tourbillon?
For many watch collectors, acquiring one's first tourbillon watch is a Holy Grail, a rite of passage into the upper echelons of horological connoisseurship. If you're new to the watch appreciation game, however, you may be wondering what all the fuss is about. What is so special about tourbillon watches, anyway, and what makes them so desirable to so many while still being so prohibitively expensive for most? The short answer is that a tourbillon is, in this day and age, less of a necessity and more of a badge of historical high-watchmaking excellence. For a more detailed explanation, read on. The First Tourbillons and Early Innovations The inventor of the tourbillon is a name that is likely familiar to watch connoisseurs. Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747-1823), a native of Switzerland who plied his trade as a watchmaker in Paris, was one of horology’s most significant historical figures, among whose many innovations was the first self-winding movement, the first repeater movement with a gong, one of the earliest constant-force escapements, and the device that he famously patented in 1801, the so-called tourbillon escapement. While the tourbillon is today considered by many to be a complication, like a chronograph or calendar mechanism, its original purpose was a fully practical one, to compensate for the ill effects of gravity on the movement of a pocket watch and thus improve its long-term accuracy. Remember, in Breguet’s time, watches were not worn on wrists, where ...
Worn & Wound
What I Learned Touring Casio’s Ultra Modern Factory (and Museum)
I have a confession to make: I (politely) turn down 90% of press junkets offered to me. So, when Casio reached out to me earlier this year with the opportunity to visit their Yamagata factory and the Tokyo headquarters, I was not too sure. I thought about it for three days on how this would be different from any other watch factory visit, and how I would narrate my visit without the usual “Maison’s” PR team influencing my writing. There were two reasons I accepted Casio’s invitation. First, Casio is unlike any other watch company, so it will make for an interesting visit and observations. And second, Casio culture is different from other watch companies, including their PR and marketing folks. They are transparent about everything; they allowed me to ask the tough questions and did not influence my story. I will touch on both points further in this article. The original G-SHOCK There were three journalists on this trip including me, so it was a small group for this visit. We visited Casio’s Yamagata factory the first day, their museum in Tokyo the following day, and on the final day we visited the headquarters to meet and interview executives overseeing the watch division. All three visits were so different from each other – the first was so technical, the second was all about design and history, and the final visit was about strategy. For our visit to the Yamagata factory, we woke up early to take the Shinkansen (bullet train) to Higashine city, in Yamagata ...
Monochrome
News – Phillips Watch’s Next Auction Has Everything but Watches, and Will Benefit a Good Cause
On Saturday, 6 September 2025, Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo will host a live charity auction at Geneva Watch Days to benefit the Pierre Amstutz Fund, a non-profit organisation dedicated to supporting apprentices at the Geneva School of Watchmaking. Now in its third consecutive year, the charity auction has become a fixture of […]
Worn & Wound
Opinion: A Little Learning is a Dangerous Thing (Or, Please Don’t Call Me a Watch Expert)
We live in a golden age of watch knowledge. Never before have so many people known so much about watches, or cared about them so deeply, and it’s genuinely remarkable. Have a specific question about a rare Rolex from 40 or 50 years ago? The answer is probably just a Google search away. Need to check that the watch you’re looking to buy was made in exactly the spec you’re seeing on eBay? There’s almost certainly a forum post somewhere breaking it down for you - no subject is too esoteric, no prompt too singular. There’s enough watch knowledge out there to fill a lifetime, and probably more, if you go looking for it. Then there’s the other… stuff. Open up Instagram and you’ll immediately be inundated by accounts professing to represent ‘watch experts’ peddling surface-level observations as hard-earned insights. Start to absorb enough of this, and it’s easy to convince yourself you should count among them, that you’ve done the real work required to achieve expertise. It’s a trap, and an easy one to fall into at that. Because unless someone in your life brought you into this world, you’re probably the foremost watch expert in your life. You’re almost certainly the one your friends and family come to when (cough, cough… if) they have questions about watches. Just being able to tell the difference between a quartz and a mechanical watch probably puts you in the top quartile of watch knowledge. And if you’re reading articles like this on sites ...
Hodinkee
One To Watch: Sohaib Maghnam, A 30-Year-Old Automotive Designer And CEO Of Two Watch Brands With Three 2025 GPHG Entries
Qatar-based Beda'a is one of the few non-Swiss brands with a GPHG Entry this year, and it has two, with Maghnam's eponymous brand rounding out the third.
Deployant
New: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph
Roger Dubuis releases an addition to their Excalibur Chronograph collection with the new Spider Flyback Chronograph, now in pink gold.
SJX Watches
Louis Erard Makes Hand Engraving Affordable
Louis Erard’s niche is making either watchmakers or techniques affordable – the Gravée Main is hand engraving priced accessibly. The watch is entirely engraved by hand, across the bezel, case, crown, and buckle, with a classical leaf motif by Maksym Shavlak, a watchmaker and engraver from Ukraine. The resulting look is a blend of Gothic and Baroque, but the underlying watch retains the usual dimensions and movement of Louis Erard, while the dial is glossy black lacquer that evokes fired enamel. Initial thoughts I appreciate Louis Erard’s consistent focus on making interesting names or techniques affordable; its recent Damascus steel regulator being an example. Some micro-brands or one-man shops do the same for slightly less, particularly for certain decorative techniques, but without the finesse of Louis Erard. A good deal of credit for this goes to Manuel Emch, who oversees Louis Erard and lends his eye to the brand’s creations. The Gravée Main sits squarely in the sweet spot where Louis Erard excels. Admittedly, the ornate look is not for everyone, some might even find it tacky. But I like it; the look is appealing and the execution shows attention to detail. The tone-on-tone lacquered dial is a smart complement to the elaborate case. And that attention to detail is also evident in the engraving, which continues onto both the crown and buckle, which are sometimes overlooked. Price-wise the Gravée Main is pricier than the typical Louis Erard limited edition, bu...
Worn & Wound
A History and Guide – How to Use a Dive Bezel
John Scott Haldane had a problem. Britain’s Royal Navy had commissioned the Scottish physiologist to find a solution for a unique problem facing their divers: decompression. Known since the mid-19th century, decompression sickness (DCS) posed a serious risk for divers and laborers working in pressurized environments, such as caissons. It was his job to develop a set of decompression tables for safe diving operations. It boils down to how gases act under pressure. When breathing a gas mixture at depth - for the sake of simplicity, we will say compressed air, or approximately 78% nitrogen and 21% oxygen, with the rest being inert gases - the oxygen is used up by the body, and the nitrogen is absorbed into the bloodstream. This build-up will dissolve as it is effectively off-gassed, as it does when each of us breathes here on the surface. Enter pressure. Should a diver undergo a rapid change in pressure, such as by ascending too quickly, the nitrogen will separate from the blood and form bubbles in the tissues and joints. The resulting pain has a habit of contorting its victims, giving DCS its more readily-known nickname of “the bends.” John Scott Haldane had a problem. Britain’s Royal Navy had commissioned the Scottish physiologist to find a solution for a unique problem facing their divers: decompression. Known since the mid-19th century, decompression sickness (DCS) posed a serious risk for divers and laborers working in pressurized environments, such as caisso...
Deployant
New: Breitling 2025 Ironman Endurance Pro Models
Breitling continues its partnership with Ironman with new colour ways for the Endurance Pro IRONMAN World Championship 2025 editions in ti and Breltlight.
Fratello
My Favorite Datejust Is A 1601 No-Lume Lavender Dial
Choosing my favorite Datejust wasn’t a simple exercise. From 2021 through most of 2023, I acquired several vintage references. Each one was chosen for a reason. Hard-to-find dials combined with sharp cases and atypical bezels were my game. Two years later, these Datejust models remain as regular options in my wearing rotation. They’re fantastic, fit […] Visit My Favorite Datejust Is A 1601 No-Lume Lavender Dial to read the full article.
Monochrome
Buying Guide – Titanium Temptations: Six Lightweight Watches Packing A Big Visual Punch
Not too long ago, our editor Brice aimed to answer a fundamental question: what makes a great summer watch? While the answer was not as straightforward as the question might suggest, one of the elements to come full circle is material. In terms of what your watch should be made of, titanium was given as […]
Fratello
Sunday Morning Showdown: IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 Vs. Chopard Alpine Eagle 41
Good morning and welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown. Last week, we had a surprising matchup between two titanium high-beat chronographs that ended up in a tie. This week, we’re curious to see what happens when we put two stainless steel integrated bracelet reinterpretations up against each other. In 2023, IWC brought back the Ingenieur, […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 Vs. Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 to read the full article.
Deployant
New: Panerai Submersible Marina Militare PAM01697 & PAM01698 Carbotech™
Panerai’s Submersible Marina Militare PAM01697 and PAM01698 are tactical evolutions of the brand’s dive watch lineage, paying tribute to the Italian Navy’s aviation division (Aviazione Navale). Both models feature green-grained dials, radar-style subdials, and engraved casebacks, but diverge in material execution-one in brushed steel, the other in Panerai’s proprietary Carbotech™.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds: Another Cool Vintage LED, a Gorgeous Grand Seiko, and an Art Deco Bulova
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Shreve & Co LED Another week, another cool vintage LED! I honestly don’t know why there are so many of these coming out of the woodwork, but I’m glad they are. This one is a vintage Shreve & Co. with a nice space-age chunky look. The 36.5mm steel case is in great shape with sharp edges and unpolished. The bracelet is original and complements the watch perfectly. The display works and the watch runs as it should. Nice 1970’s goodness from a seldom seen brand. View auction here Vintage Grand Seiko 6146-8000 We have a real winner here, a vintage Grand Seiko 6146-8000 dress watch. This 61GS epitomizes Grand Seiko’s Grammar of Design aesthetic. The broad planes, sharp edges and mix of brushed and polished finishes is simply sublime. The silver dial is clean and has the classic simple stick markers and a day/date window at 3 o’clock. The dauphine hands have gorgeous bevels, a testament to the precise craftsmanship of the Grand Seiko line. The 6146 movement is hi-beat, pulsing at 36000 beats per hour. The deeply grooved crown is original and signed with the GS logo as it should. The gold GS caseback medallion is in really nice condition as well. Really a beautiful piece here. Vie...
Quill & Pad
Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1 Reviewed by Tim Mosso
The Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1 is a new watch built like an old watch, and that’s exactly the point. Hand Made 1 isn’t the most complicated, conspicuous, or inventive Greubel Forsey watch, but it looks backwards to point the way forward.
Fratello
Fratello’s Top 5 Favorite Watches Under €500 From Small Brands
Another Friday, another list! This week, it’s time for the second installment of our series on affordable watches. Last week, we discussed our favorite mechanical watches under €500 from big brands. This second article focuses on the best watches for under €500 from small brands. Call them independents or microbrands, you get the idea. The […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Favorite Watches Under €500 From Small Brands to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Hands On: De Bethune DB25 Monopusher Chronograph
De Bethune once again has a single-button chronograph to its line-up with the compact DB25 Monopusher Chronograph. Styled after the DB8 from the brand’s early years, the DB25 chronograph has a smaller case but a larger, more refined movement. Importantly, it is most accessible chronographs from the brand in recent memory, both in size and price. Initial Thoughts I hold De Bethune in high regard for its technical ambition and an idiosyncratic design language that blends aesthetic codes from the 18th and 23rd centuries. The distinctive aesthetics were largely the brainchild of cofounder Davide Zanetta, who unfortunately departed the brand several years ago. Fortunately, however, both traits are alive and well in the DB25 Monopusher Chronograph. For several years the brand lacked a conventional chronograph, and I see the new DB25 as the brand’s long-term solution to that problem. Likely shaped by feedback on the recent DB Eight, the DB25 Monopusher has everything it needs to be a staple of the brand’s line-up – moderate sizing, good looks, and complementary calibre. Though based on the brand’s prior chronograph movements, the DB3000 inside the DB25 is interesting in several respects. For one, it retains the oscillating pinion found in the long-ago DB1. The oscillating pinion isn’t well regarded by collectors, seen as less advanced than a vertical clutch and without the theatre of a horizontal coupling. It is possible to make a handsome chronograph with an oscillat...
Deployant
New and Reviewed: Watch Ho & Co X Selten Jui
Commorating the 2nd anniversary Watch Ho & Co X Selten Jui (聚) is a timepiece steeped in Cantonese tradition & camaraderie of the watch collecting community
Worn & Wound
Selten and Collector Community Watch Ho and Co. Team Up for a New Collaboration in Tahitian Mother of Pearl
Selten impressed me earlier this year with the release of their Grand Feu Enamel series, which features deeply engraved and colorful dials made in a traditional enamelling process. Artistic, craft forward dials made from interesting materials are their stock in trade, so it’s no surprise that they seem to be flourishing at this particular moment, when there’s a real hunger among collectors for watches that offer something a little more daring. As a certified mother of pearl addict (DM me if you need help finding a support group in your area) their latest release, a collaboration with the Hong Kong based watch collecting community Watch Ho & Co caught my eye. The Jui 聚 (which translate to “to meet, to gather”) features a dramatic Tahitian mother of pearl dial that is CNC engraved to form an elaborate and complex pattern. According to Selten, the design is inspired by ancient China, and the pattern itself is lifted from a motif often used in body armor. Over time, these shapes came to symbolize strength and security, which the brand is now pitching as a testament to the bonds formed within the watch community. This of course is a guiding principle that makes a lot of sense given the collaboration with a community of watch collectors. It’s underscored by the ethos of Watch Ho & Co with an engraving on the caseback reading “Good Vibes Only.” I’ll be honest, I’ve seen a lot of watches over the years with dials featuring abstract or obscure design motifs th...