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Results for The 2017-2022 Vintage Market Boom

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Interview: Julien Tornare, CEO of Zenith SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin where his last job Jan 3, 2020

Interview: Julien Tornare, CEO of Zenith

In mid 2017, Julien Tornare, became chief executive at Zenith, maker of the famed El Primero chronograph. This came after a 17-year stint at Vacheron Constantin, where his last job was running the brand’s operations in Asia, its most important market by a large margin. At Zenith, Mr Tornare was called upon to revitalise a brand that had been drifting for some time. Zenith was clinging on too tightly to the past – namely the landmark El Primero – to the exclusion of everything else the brand had achieved. The diversification beyond the El Primero is exemplified by the Defy, a product crucial to the brand’s resurgence. The collection swiftly became a bestseller since its debut two years ago, but also boasts a milestone for the industry at large with the radical silicon oscillator in the Defy Inventor. The Defy Inventor During the El Primero 50th anniversary event that took place late last year in Singapore, I sat down with Mr Tornare to discuss his vision for Zenith, and how his start-up approach to running the brand has helped propel it into the new decade. The interview was edited for length and clarity. It has been two years since you took over at Zenith. Do you think you’re past the toughest part of the job? The toughest was probably at the beginning; getting the team on board with my vision was the most challenging. You can only develop a brand when you have everybody with you, and when you come from an entirely different brand, that takes some time. The firs...

Auction preview highlights at Phillips Game Changers Time+Tide
Nov 2, 2019

Auction preview highlights at Phillips Game Changers

Later this year, Phillips, in association with Bacs & Russo, are hosting the Game Changers auction, which will be offering some of the most important watches to ever meet the public market, including watches owned by golfer Jack Nicklaus, and actors Marlon Brando and Robert Downey Jr, as well as incredibly rare vintage examples of … ContinuedThe post Auction preview highlights at Phillips Game Changers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: Why did auctioneer Aurel Bacs buy a modern quartz watch? Time+Tide
Jul 12, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Why did auctioneer Aurel Bacs buy a modern quartz watch?

If you haven’t heard of Aurel Bacs, that is something that needs to change. While the word influencer has been irreparably ruined by people who use Instagram at the beach, it is one of the most fitting words to describe his impact on the global vintage watch market. The founder of the watch department at … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Why did auctioneer Aurel Bacs buy a modern quartz watch? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Andrew’s top 3 picks of SIHH 2019 over $35k Time+Tide
Richard Mille s sweet Bonbon confection Jan 28, 2019

VIDEO: Andrew’s top 3 picks of SIHH 2019 over $35k

If the over $35,000 price point is not the most crowded at SIHH, it is equal to the 20-35k bracket before it. There are a lot of watches to choose from. From Baume & Mercier, with a well-priced perpetual calendar that dropped just over 35kAUD, to Richard Mille’s sweet Bonbon confection, practically all brands were … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Andrew’s top 3 picks of SIHH 2019 over $35k appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Top Lots From Antiquorum’s Record Setting ONLY WATCH 2013 Benefit Revolution
Oct 3, 2013

Top Lots From Antiquorum’s Record Setting ONLY WATCH 2013 Benefit

From The Only Watch Preview, Antiquorum New York. This year marked the 5th edition of the ONLY WATCH benefit auction, a long-standing partnership between  the Association Monegasque Contre les Myopathies, Antiquorum Auctioneers and the Monaco Yacht Show.  ONLY WATCH benefits research into finding a successful treatment and cure for Duchenne muscular dystrophy, the most severe form […]

SIHH 2012: A. Lange & Sohne novelties Deployant
Vacheron Constantin revised their Malte line Jan 27, 2012

SIHH 2012: A. Lange & Sohne novelties

  This year’s SIHH lacks real horological punch. Yes, there were many beautiful timepieces being shown, but no horologically exciting developments. Many were revisions of golden oldies. Audemars Piguet celebrated their 40th anniversary of their Royal Oak and showed many new and very beautiful pieces. Vacheron Constantin revised their Malte line, making them even moreRead More

A Fistful of Jade: Windup in a Bay 2026 with Marathon & Prometheus Design Werx Worn & Wound
Ming 4 days ago

A Fistful of Jade: Windup in a Bay 2026 with Marathon & Prometheus Design Werx

There are few places on earth that feel as mythologized and untamed as California’s Big Sur coastline. The cliffs seem too steep, the Pacific too violent, and the roads too beautiful to be entirely real. It’s the sort of place that attracts a particular kind of person, someone who sees adventure not as spectacle, but as a pursuit. For Windup in a Bay 2026, that pursuit led to Jade Cove. What began years ago as a loose gathering of watch enthusiasts and divers has quietly evolved into one of the most distinctive traditions orbiting the Windup Watch Fair. This year’s expedition, organized with support from Marathon Watch Company and Prometheus Design Werx, brought together divers, military veterans, writers, firefighters, instructors, photographers, and gear obsessives for a weekend that became less about the treasure hunt that it began as, and more about rediscovering why people chase experiences like this in the first place. Windup in a Jade Cove The origins of the “Windup in a ____” concept were humble. When Windup first came to Chicago in 2022, a small group of enthusiasts who had connected online through watches, diving, and social media decided it would be more meaningful to actually spend time together outside the convention hall. What started as an informal Lake Michigan dive jokingly called “Windup in a Lake” gradually evolved into something larger, eventually becoming a recurring series of adventure-focused gatherings tied loosely to Windup events aro...

Bringing Hands-On Watchmaking to Windup Watch Fair San Francisco 2026 with DIY Watch Club Worn & Wound
5 days ago

Bringing Hands-On Watchmaking to Windup Watch Fair San Francisco 2026 with DIY Watch Club

One of the most memorable additions to Windup Watch Fair San Francisco 2026 wasn’t a new release, a panel discussion, or even a brand activation. It was the twist of tiny screwdrivers, movements clicking into place, and attendees experiencing the satisfaction of building a mechanical watch with their own hands. For the first time ever at a Windup Watch Fair, DIY Watch Club hosted live watchmaking workshops throughout the weekend, giving attendees the opportunity to assemble their own watches from the ground up right on-site at Fort Mason’s Gateway Pavilion. Led by DIY Watch Club founder Quinn Lai and his partner Rebecca Lai, the classes quickly became one of the Fair’s most talked-about experiences, drawing everyone from seasoned enthusiasts curious about the mechanics behind their collections to total newcomers looking for a deeper connection to watchmaking. Each workshop guided participants step-by-step through the process of assembling a functioning mechanical watch, including casing the movement, setting the hands, and completing the final assembly. Participants each built one of DIY’s White Dial Stainless Steel GMT, giving them not only a hands-on introduction to watchmaking, but also a genuinely wearable travel-ready mechanical watch to take home at the end of the session. While some attendees arrived slightly intimidated by the process, the atmosphere in the workshop area quickly became collaborative, energetic, and surprisingly relaxed as participants reali...

Windup Watch Fair San Francisco 2026 Recap: Our Biggest Bay Area Weekend Yet Worn & Wound
Frederique Constant 6 days ago

Windup Watch Fair San Francisco 2026 Recap: Our Biggest Bay Area Weekend Yet

If there was any doubt that Windup Watch Fair San Francisco had evolved into something far bigger than a traditional watch show, this past weekend erased it completely. Over three unforgettable days at Fort Mason’s Gateway Pavilion, over 7,000 enthusiasts, collectors, first-timers, industry veterans, and curious passersby packed the waterfront for what became our most ambitious and experiential Windup San Francisco to date. Watches were still the heart of it all, of course, but this year the Fair expanded in every direction imaginable: panels, parties, padel, live art, whisky tastings, DIY watchmaking, EV Broncos, giveaways, podcast recordings, and more all combined into a weekend that felt less like a trade show and more like a full-scale enthusiast festival. None of this would have been possible without the support of our incredible Lead Sponsors: Bremont, Brew, Christopher Ward, Frederique Constant, and Oris, all of whom helped bring new energy, new releases, and memorable experiences to this year’s Fair. From Bremont’s rugged space-watch presence to Christopher Ward’s endlessly crowd-drawing Bel Canto conversations, from Frederique Constant’s padel panel and activation to Brew’s playful industrial design language, and not to mention Oris celebrating 60 years of mechanical freedom—each Lead Sponsor helped define the personality of the weekend in a different way. The show floor itself was nonstop from open to close every day. Approximately 90 brands from ar...

Auctions: Continuing Our Massive 2026 Geneva Spring Auctions Preview: Christie’s and Sotheby’s Round Things Out (Part 2) Hodinkee
Audemars Piguet Observatory-style watch Photo courtesy May 5, 2026

Auctions: Continuing Our Massive 2026 Geneva Spring Auctions Preview: Christie’s and Sotheby’s Round Things Out (Part 2)

There's no shortage of watches this auction season—more than 1,200 lots across the major houses—but volume isn't really the story. At Christie's and Sotheby's, the focus feels different this time around, moving past the hype-driven pieces of the early 2020s and back to some genuinely compelling and surprising watches. Last week, we published part one of our preview—today, we're finishing it up with part two. Christie’s I would argue that Christie's always has one of the more subtle and yet impressive catalogs. There are some truly fantastic pieces here and, as always, we'll start at the top. Lot 134, a unique and absolutely stunningly gorgeous (add all the superlatives you want) two-tone 14k pink gold and steel Audemars Piguet "Observatory-style" watch. Photo courtesy Christie's. If you're looking for a watch that my friend and current "Bring a Loupe" writer Weston Cutter called an "immediate knee-weakener," you need to sit down for this one. Lot 134 is a unique and absolutely stunningly gorgeous (add all the superlatives you want) two-tone 14k pink gold and steel Audemars Piguet "Observatory-style" watch. The watch is powered by a 13-ligne 13VZAS movement that was highly modified for precision as a time-only watch, with a large subsidiary seconds at 9 o'clock and a blank subdial at 3 o'clock. Bold numerals, bold design, it's the kind of thing you dream about if you collect early watches, and the estimate is a hilarious CHF 50,000 to 100,000. It should go for way m...

Thomas’s Watches And Wonders 2026 Favorites: Conservative Classics Catch My Gaze Fratello
May 2, 2026

Thomas’s Watches And Wonders 2026 Favorites: Conservative Classics Catch My Gaze

As Fratello writers, my colleagues and I always have this article in the back of our minds as we work our way through the Watches and Wonders peak workload. We all know that sooner rather than later, Head of Content Nacho will schedule a Watches and Wonders 2026 favorites article for each of us, so […] Visit Thomas’s Watches And Wonders 2026 Favorites: Conservative Classics Catch My Gaze to read the full article.

Fratello’s Top 5 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Alternatives In 2026 Fratello
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Alternatives May 1, 2026

Fratello’s Top 5 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Alternatives In 2026

Another Friday, another list. After last week’s list of Tudor Black Bay alternatives, we’ll move on to one of the watch world’s biggest icons. It’s time to check out our five favorite alternatives to the iconic Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo.” This watch is widely regarded as having spawned a new genre in 1972, and […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Alternatives In 2026 to read the full article.

Introducing: Naoya Hida & Co.'s 2026 Slate Of Releases, Including Two Brand-New Models And Their First Porcelain Dial Hodinkee
Naoya Hida Apr 30, 2026

Introducing: Naoya Hida & Co.'s 2026 Slate Of Releases, Including Two Brand-New Models And Their First Porcelain Dial

What We Know It's spring, which means it's time for Naoya Hida's annual trunk show, where the brand tours the world to showcase its new watches. If you're in town for one of their few stops (like next week in New York), you can treat it like any tailor's trunk show and find out if the watch is a good fit. And every year, Hida-san and his team unveil a few new styles. In fact, you can see the ten releases on offer below. Some are familiar; others have small tweaks (the Type1 is now the Type1E because of the new domed crystal that makes it 10.9mm). But there are three watches that are so distinctly new that it's worth talking about. Let's go in numerical order, starting with a watch that is essentially just a dial revision, but it's a dramatic one at that. The Type2 series has been around for six years now as the brand's central seconds movement, followed by revisions in 2021 and then the coveted collaboration with The Armoury in 2022, called "The Lettercutter." I know a lot of people fought to get that piece, but there's a new Type2C-2 that's going to get some attention. While a big draw for Naoya Hida is the hand-engraved German or Argentium silver dials (in fact, that's where a lot of the price goes), they've pivoted here to their first-ever porcelain dial. The watch, powered by a Cal. 3020CS manually-wound movement with 45-hour power reserve and 4Hz beat rate, is cased in 37mm by 11.4mm stainless steel with a 44.8mm lug-to-lug. The glass is a curved sapphire crystal with...

Jorg’s Favorite Watches And Wonders 2026 Releases — Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin, And More Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Apr 30, 2026

Jorg’s Favorite Watches And Wonders 2026 Releases — Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin, And More

Picking highlights from this year’s Watches and Wonders is tough, as always. Once again, it’s more a matter of abundance rather than a lack thereof. But somehow, Watches and Wonders 2026 felt different compared to last year. It was more about consolidation than big technological innovations or grand anniversaries. Nevertheless, there was an avalanche of […] Visit Jorg’s Favorite Watches And Wonders 2026 Releases — Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin, And More to read the full article.

Introducing – Naoya Hida Presents its 2026 Collection, Incl. a Valjoux 23 Chronograph Monochrome
Kurono Tokyo Apr 30, 2026

Introducing – Naoya Hida Presents its 2026 Collection, Incl. a Valjoux 23 Chronograph

It is no secret that Japan is becoming one of the most productive hubs for high-end independent watchmaking, with names such as Hajime Asaoka (also behind Kurono Tokyo and Takano), Jiro Katayama (Otsuka Lotec), Daizoh Makihara, and Norifumi Seki (Quiet Club) gaining incredible traction in recent years. Another name that cannot be forgotten is Naoya […]

Observations and Takeaways at Watches & Wonders 2026 SJX Watches
Rolex as it always does Apr 27, 2026

Observations and Takeaways at Watches & Wonders 2026

The biggest booth at Watches & Wonders 2026 (W&W;) belonged to Rolex, as it always does. Looming three stories high, the Rolex booth was home to some of the most talked-about and polarising watches of the fair, as it always is. Rolex took the occasion of the centenary of its water-resistant Oyster case to roll out a line-up of surprising watches, perhaps the most unexpected from Rolex in a while. The collection included a Daytona with a fired enamel dial, Boetti-esque Oyster Perpetual, and a return of the little-loved but technically impressive Yachtmaster II. The vast, three-story Rolex booth. Image – Watches & Wonders In a first, Rolex gave its popular sports chronograph a vitreous enamel dial, or grand feu enamel in watchmaking parlance. The industrial and engineering achievement is impressive; it’s not just a new livery and this Daytona is more than meets the eye. The enamel is melted glass, as is tradition, but instead of a metal base, the enamel is on a ceramic substrate that is in turn mounted on a brass plate. While there is some debate whether the ceramic substrate makes it enamel in the traditional sense of the word, I consider it enamel. The new enamel dial harks back to the “porcelain” dial Daytona of yore More importantly, the key characteristic of the dial is thinness, recording-setting thinness in fact, which means that Rolex has achieved an enamel dial with all of the qualities of enamel, lustre, fade-resistance, colour, without compromising thicknes...

Home-Made Grande Sonnerie Wins 2026 F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition Shin Apr 27, 2026

Home-Made Grande Sonnerie Wins 2026 F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition

Shin Ohno is the winner of the 12th F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition. The young Japanese watchmaker clinched the prize with the Fuyu-Geshiki, a small grande et petite sonnerie tourbillon clock inspired by the winter landscape of Nagano, a northern prefecture of Japan. Made by one man with a watchmaker’s lathe, desktop CNC mill, and not a lot of sleep, the ebony-cased timepiece is one of the most impressive works produced by the competition yet. From Nagano Mr Ohno describes Nagano as “defined by the purity of its air, by the flow of spring water, and by melting snow”. It is also the heart of Japan’s watch industry, boasting the country’s largest movement assembly plant (Citizen’s Saku plant) and is home to Mr Ohno’s employer — Seiko Epson. Specifically, Mr Ohno works as an engineer within the company’s watch division, but it should be noted that this timepiece is entirely unrelated to the (now discontinued) Credor Spring Drive Sonnerie and Credor Minute Repeater. Mr Ohno designed the movement from the ground up, citing the creative works of past winner Norifumi Seki and Masahiro Kikuno as key inspirations. A closer look at the tourbillon cage. The teeth are polished to catch the light like slick stones. While he learned how to design watch parts at his day job, it was someone else’s job to manufacture them. With the Fuyu-Geshiki, Mr Ohno had to master production as well as design. He cites his colleague, master watchmaker Ikukiyo Komatsu, as a mento...

It’s Complicated To Choose: Lex’s Three Favorite Watches And Wonders 2026 Releases Fratello
Apr 25, 2026

It’s Complicated To Choose: Lex’s Three Favorite Watches And Wonders 2026 Releases

This year, I wasn’t looking for something I could own. This year’s Watches and Wonders, I was ready to be amazed, surprised, and blown away by impressive stuff. I was in the mood for complications, not retro-chic dress watches or buffed-up icons. Well, the salon didn’t disappoint, and the participating brands made it complicated for […] Visit It’s Complicated To Choose: Lex’s Three Favorite Watches And Wonders 2026 Releases to read the full article.

Fratello’s Top 5 Tudor Black Bay Alternatives In 2026 Fratello
Tudor Black Bay Alternatives Apr 24, 2026

Fratello’s Top 5 Tudor Black Bay Alternatives In 2026

Another Friday, another list. Today, we move on from a series about alternatives to different Rolex models. But we’re staying close because, this time, we will look at alternatives to the Tudor Black Bay. It is hard to deny that the Black Bay has become a benchmark series of watches under €5,000 since its 2012 […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Tudor Black Bay Alternatives In 2026 to read the full article.