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Auction Report: What Went Down at Only Watch 2019 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet chief executive Francois-Henri Bennahmias Nov 11, 2019

Auction Report: What Went Down at Only Watch 2019

Only Watch 2019 is the biggest watch auction ever – and it was the most exciting sale in a notably quiet Geneva auction season – with 50 lots selling for 38.59m Swiss francs. The last Only Watch auction in 2017 raised a mere 9.29m francs in comparison. And of course 31m francs of that came from just one watch, the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime in steel, which went to a determined buyer from Asia bidding via telephone with Wei-Ting Jud of Christie’s London. Presided over by Christie’s jewellery department head Rahul Kadakia, the best watch auctioneer who is not a watch specialist, the saleroom in Geneva’s Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues was jam-packed, so full even Audemars Piguet chief executive Francois-Henri Bennahmias had to stand. And there was even a famous face in attendance, or at least in the same building – former Thai prime minister Thaksin Shinawatra, who is a a known watch collector, was spotted in the lobby of the hotel. Luc Pettavino, who founded only watch after his late son was stricken by Duchenne muscular dystrophy, the very disease that Only Watch raises funds to research a cure. Photo – Alex Teuscher Photography Though the Patek Philippe accounted for most of the sale proceeds – which all go to a medical charity – the other 49 lots in the auction still sold for an average of 155,000 Swiss francs, which is well above the average for a watch auction. The Antiquorum watch auction that took place a day later, for instance, averaged only...

Bremont Martin-Baker Timepieces: And You Only Have To Be Ejected From A Jet Fighter To Get One! Quill & Pad
Bremont Martin-Baker Timepieces Sep 10, 2019

Bremont Martin-Baker Timepieces: And You Only Have To Be Ejected From A Jet Fighter To Get One!

What does it feel like to eject from a jet fighter? Imagine yourself motoring down the autobahn in a convertible doing 600 miles per hour. Now stand up. Chris Malburg talks with owners of Bremont’s most exclusive timepiece – the MB1 – and their jet fighter ejection experiences qualifying them to wear this one-of-a-kind watch.

8 signs you should be wearing a Tudor Pelagos Time+Tide
Tudor Pelagos Editor’s note Aug 28, 2019

8 signs you should be wearing a Tudor Pelagos

Editor’s note: A little while ago we went off-script with our watch coverage, making a short, snappy series of videos that - in a decidedly tongue-in-cheek manner - aimed to assist you in your Tudor purchasing decision. Here’s our take on the archetypal Tudor Pelagos wearer. And if you’ve got a Pelagos on your wrist … ContinuedThe post 8 signs you should be wearing a Tudor Pelagos appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Bell & Ross BR-X1 Phantom Chronograph SJX Watches
Bell & Ross BR-X1 Phantom Chronograph Aug 13, 2019

Hands-On: Bell & Ross BR-X1 Phantom Chronograph

In 2014, Bell & Ross’ signature BR 01 design spawned a futuristic, ultra-graphic spin-off that would take the brand miles beyond the cockpit – the BR-X1. While the watch inherited the distinctive circle-within-a-square case modelled on aircraft instruments, from there the execution swerves radically away from the retro-military look of the original, with the BR-X1 taking on a greater complexity in both construction and style. Iterated into numerous variants in the five years since its launch – including a Renault Formula 1 edition and White Hawk – the BR-X1 is characterised by open-worked dial revealing a skeletonised chronograph module and a complex case made up of a combination of materials – here titanium and ceramic – with rocker-style pushers pivoted on one end. This year, Bell & Ross (B&R;) has unveiled one of the most striking iterations of the BR-X1 to date, the all-black Phantom. The BR-X1 Phantom Going dark Watches with black cases and dials are relatively common today, ironically thanks in part to one brand that resisted the genre so vehemently that it spawned an outlaw cult of aftermarket all-black watches. Even with the flood of black watches on the market, few have gone above and beyond in making everything on the watch black. The first truly all-black watch was the smash hit Hublot Big Bang of 2006, which was followed by hordes more. But the greatest irony of such watches is that the illegible colour palette results in an eminent...

Hands-On: H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Tourbillon Concept SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Tourbillon Aug 2, 2019

Hands-On: H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Tourbillon Concept

Every year H. Moser & Cie. introduces an over the top, sometimes controversial watch – this year’s headliner was covered in grass – while also doing the opposite with its minimalist “concept” watches. Forsaking logos and numerals or indices, the concept watches have a clean yet colourful aesthetic coupled with appealing in-house movements – a tribute to stealth luxury. The latest iteration of the idea is the Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Cosmic Green, a variation of the first model from two years ago. The watch now has a sublime green fumé dial. Though Moser relies on graduated dials often, maybe too often, it is still an attractive look, here with the added interest provided by the flying tourbillon. While not unique to Moser, the graduated tone fumé dials are almost a better calling card than the brand’s logo. In fact, all of Moser’s bestsellers feature this intriguing finish that has the dial colour darkening towards the edge, with the effect now available in several colour variations, including blue, grey and green. The green dial is striking, and quite mesmerising the first time you see it. Up close, the dial is more subdued than in the stock images of the watch, more sea green than forest green. Given the emptiness of the upper half of the dial, the sunburst finish is obvious and complements the gradual external colour change. The flying tourbillon The focal point of the lower half of the dial is the one-minute, flying t...

To buy or not to buy – how to curate your watch collection Time+Tide
Jul 27, 2019

To buy or not to buy – how to curate your watch collection

Collecting watches is a lot of fun. At least, it should be. If it ever stops being fun, I’d assume that’s because you got into it for the wrong reasons (to make a quick buck, most likely). If you’re about to take the plunge into this massively rewarding hobby, but you’re doing so because you … ContinuedThe post To buy or not to buy – how to curate your watch collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: Richemont and Swatch Results; Massive Inventories at Swatch SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin saw overall sales dip Jul 18, 2019

Business News: Richemont and Swatch Results; Massive Inventories at Swatch

Swiss watchmaking groups Richemont and Swatch Group just announced their first quarter and six-month results for 2019 respectively, with each going in opposite directions. Owner of brands like Cartier, IWC and Panerai, Richemont saw growth across most segments and regions. Overall sales were up 12% at constant exchange rates, with every region growing in the low teens save for the Middle East and Africa. Sales in Asia grew 10%, led by China, where demand is up due to lower taxes locally on luxury goods and more stringent checks on travellers importing items bought overseas. Most notable was the performance of its online channels, namely luxury fashion mall Yoox Net-a-Porter (YNAP), pre-owned watch merchant Watchfinder, and to a lesser extent. That growth is from a low base of comparison: last year’s first quarter for each platform was only two and one month respectively. That being said, online sales are still substantial, rising to 50% to €648m, almost equal to the €698m of sales in the Americas as a whole. The group’s watchmaking brands, which include A. Lange & Söhne and Vacheron Constantin, saw overall sales dip 2%. This was attributed to a reduction in the number of sales channels as well as reduced orders of new product by retailers. Up in Biel, where the Swatch Group has its headquarters, half-year sales were down 3.7% at constant exchange rates, to 4.07 billion Swiss francs. Net profit followed suit, shrinking 11.3% to 415m francs. For the full year, howe...

Up Close: Akrivia AK-02 Tourbillon Hour Minute SJX Watches
Casio nally titanium it Jul 9, 2019

Up Close: Akrivia AK-02 Tourbillon Hour Minute

Last year’s Akrivia Chronomètre Contemporain made its young creator, Rexhep Rexhepi, a star, but the brand’s foundational watch is actually the “AK” series. Chunky and slightly sporty, the AK watches are a world away from the classical styling of the Chronomètre Contemporain, but boast the same level of movement finishing, along with a bonus of elaborately hand-hammered dials. The second model in the AK series was the AK-02 Tourbillon Heure Minute, or “Hour Minute” – a time-only watch with a tourbillon regulator. The AK-02 is probably the finest finished tourbillon wristwatch in its price segment, and in the price segments above it as well. The AK case It’s a fairly large watch, with the case measuring 43.0mm with and 12.9mm high. But the lugs are short so it feels fairly compact on the wrist. And because the AK-02 is typically found in a steel case, as is pictured here, or occasionally titanium, it is usually lightweight. Gold cases are available for a modest premium, though rarely requested. The case feels like it’s trying too hard, and consequently feels overly built, with thick lugs and a high case band. It’s too chunky for my taste, and doesn’t quite suit the refined movement inside. That being said, the AK-style case has it fans for several reason. The design is distinctive, more distinctive than the old school Chronomètre Contemporain case. And it is also finished to a high degree, with contrasting polished and brushed surfaces; the...

RECOMMENDED READING: Rolex drought shows no sign of easing Time+Tide
Rolex drought shows no sign Jun 11, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Rolex drought shows no sign of easing

In yet another example of water being wet, desirable Rolex models are not easy to get. And while the issues with Rolex stock should not be news to anyone reading this, this analysis from WatchPro’s managing editor Rob Corder is a somewhat more evidence-based analysis than the usual feverish hyperbole. Corder uses the tried and … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Rolex drought shows no sign of easing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: Sea Time: Watches Inspired by Sailing, Yachting and Diving Time+Tide
May 27, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Sea Time: Watches Inspired by Sailing, Yachting and Diving

So, typically in these ‘recommended reading’ posts we link to a good watch-related read that’s - you know - on the internet. Today we’re doing it a little different, with this link to an actual, honest-to-goodness book.  It’s called (you guessed it) Sea Time: Watches Inspired by Sailing, Yachting and Diving and it’s 240 hardcover-bound pages … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Sea Time: Watches Inspired by Sailing, Yachting and Diving appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: Because of course Louis Vuitton’s Virgil Abloh wears a custom, blacked-out Patek Nautilus Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton s Virgil Abloh wears May 3, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Because of course Louis Vuitton’s Virgil Abloh wears a custom, blacked-out Patek Nautilus

In case you’ve been living under a particularly unfashionable rock for the last few years, you’ll know the name Virgil Abloh. Since March 2018 he’s served as Louis Vuitton’s creative director, while still doing his duty as CEO of the Milan-based fashion house Off-White, and being long-term buddies with Kanye West. He also wears a Patek … Continued

INTRODUCING: A song of ice and fire, Hublot’s Big Bang MP-11 now in carbon and sapphire Time+Tide
Hublot s Big Bang MP-11 Apr 10, 2019

INTRODUCING: A song of ice and fire, Hublot’s Big Bang MP-11 now in carbon and sapphire

Hublot is, in many ways, a brand given to extremes. Or, at least, not doing things by halves. Their latest twin takes on the powerful MP-11 is a clear case (if you’ll pardon the pun) in point.  If you’re not au fait with the MP-11, it’s a fairly impressive piece of tech that is an … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: A song of ice and fire, Hublot’s Big Bang MP-11 now in carbon and sapphire appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

OPINION: Forget men and women, watches don’t need genders Time+Tide
Apr 4, 2019

OPINION: Forget men and women, watches don’t need genders

Do we ever see adverts calling an Audi A3 a “ladies’ car”, a Porsche 911 or Toyota LandCruiser a “men’s car”? Nope. So, when even the notoriously non-PC motor industry refrains from classifying cars in mutually exclusive gender terms, why does the watch industry persist in doing so? Now, men and women are clearly different. … ContinuedThe post OPINION: Forget men and women, watches don’t need genders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: A tale of two Seiko Shippo Enamel watches Time+Tide
Seiko Shippo Enamel watches Feb 17, 2019

HANDS-ON: A tale of two Seiko Shippo Enamel watches

For today’s review of Seiko’s Shippo Enamel watches (SPB073 and SPB075 to be precise), we’re doing something a little different, because, as it happens, two of the T+T team, Sandra and Justin, happen to own one of each. So, over to them on the how, the why and what they’re like on the wrist … … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: A tale of two Seiko Shippo Enamel watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.