Revolution
Introducing the Montblanc Heritage Small Second LE38
Montblanc’s Heritage collection gets a big, small limited edition of 38 pieces powered by the manual-winding Minerva MB 62.00 calibre.
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Revolution
Montblanc’s Heritage collection gets a big, small limited edition of 38 pieces powered by the manual-winding Minerva MB 62.00 calibre.
SJX Watches
The third important vintage Rolex – in my opinion – at Phillips’ upcoming Geneva auction, after the ref. 4113 split-seconds chronograph and mint ref. 8171 “Padellone”, is the ref. 6062 “Stelline” triple calendar that once belonged to Gordon Bethune, the executive best known for turning around Continental Airlines during his decade-long tenure starting in 1994. The watch a sterling example of the ref. 6062 – and will sell for well over a million dollars – but it is also notable for what it says about the development of the vintage watch market. Now 78 and retired, though he pops up regularly on CNBC to comment on the airline industry, Mr Bethune accumulated his watch collection over two decades. He sold the bulk of it in 2012, but remains probably the only famous business executive known to have collected watches in a serious fashion (another is perhaps former Hollywood talent agent Michael Ovitz, though he more widely regarded as an important collector of contemporary art). Mr Bethune’s collection was inclined towards great, even some of the best, examples of important, uncommon and desirable watches, rather than extraordinarily or unique models. So he owned one of the best-preserved, all-original examples of the ref. 6062s “Stelline”, rather than say a well-worn ref. 6062 with a black, diamond-marker dial. It was a cold day in December… The Gordon Bethune Collection of Fifty Exceptional Vintage Wristwatches took place in December 2012 at Christi...
SJX Watches
If I had a million dollars, or maybe two, to buy a Rolex, I could perhaps buy a ref. 4113 split-seconds, which is very large, very flat – a bit too large and flat for me – and exceptionally rare. Or I could buy a ref. 8171 triple calendar in steel, one in almost “new old stock” condition, as Phillips has in its upcoming Geneva auction. The ref. 8171 in question reminds me of the 369-year old Jehan Cremsdorff pocket watch Sotheby’s sold in the summer – it’s hard to believe something that old, admittedly not quite four centuries, can be so well preserved. The “Padellone” is incredibly – incredibly – clean and crisp. Up close, the ref. 8171 speaks for itself. The dial looks like the watch left the factory recently. It is clean, neat and the date track is in pure, vivid blue. Similarly, the hands are free of marks, meaning they were seldom, or never, removed from the dial. The condition of the dial is all the more unusual due to the fact that the ref. 8171 is not an Oyster. Instead, it has a snap-on back, instead of the water-resistant, screw-on back found on the Oyster watch case. Over time, snap backs tend to lose their water-resistance as a consequence of corrosion or deformation from repeated opening, which is why most ref. 8171s have dials that show obvious ageing. An example of a ref. 8171 with a dial showing ageing, this one offered at Christie’s Hong Kong in 2017 The steel case is similarly well preserved. Fortunately, steel is nota...
SJX Watches
Over the past two decades, Montblanc has evolved from a pure-play luxury pen maker into a serious contender in watchmaking. The company’s venture into watches began quite modestly in 1997, when it rolled out a line of watches powered by outsourced movements. But it was the 2007 integration of Minerva, a fabled maker of chronographs and stopwatches, that gave Montblanc bona fide watchmaking prowess. And by virtue of its own heritage, Minerva also bestowed a degree of legitimacy on Montblanc, along with an extensive archive of historical designs ready to be mined. Watchmaking prowess Le Locle, and then Villeret Earlier in the year I got to explore all facets of Montblanc’s watchmaking with a visit to Montblanc’s twin watchmaking facilities in Le Locle and Villeret. Both sit in the Vallee de Joux, the historical heart of Swiss watchmaking, and are about a 45-minute drive from each other. Each factory is dedicated to a distinct class of watchmaking – simpler and entry-level watches at Le Locle, and haute horlogerie at Villeret. Together, the two factories give Montblanc a unique diversity that has translated into three price categories of watches. Le Locle is responsible for both the first category, entry-level watches powered by Sellita-based movements, and the second, those equipped with mass-produced, in-house movements. Unsurprisingly, the facility produces tens of thousands of watches annually, all manufactured and assembled on an industrial ...
Deployant
Hautlence break tradition with a revolutionary (sic) time display. A ball spins at the top of each hour to reveal the next with a retrograde minute display.
Revolution
Revolution
Glashütte Original exemplifies “Made in Germany” quality.
Revolution pairs paragons of “Made in Germany” companies with Glashütte Original timepieces.
Revolution
Revolution takes you on the second half of our guided tour of the Rolex GMT-Master, a steel sports watch that has come to greater attention since the launch of the latest “Pepsi” bezel version at Baselworld 2018.
Deployant
The term 'grand cru' (literally 'great growth' in French) is used to classify a wine of the most superior grade, or the vineyard which produces it
Revolution
Following on from Revolution’s look at the role the Marine Nationale played in developing the Tudor MilSub, we look at the military service record of the models that came after.
Revolution co-hosted a cocktail reception with Seiko at its flagship Knightsbridge boutique on 14th November 2017.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Could this solar powered dive watch be the perfect diver for you? Check out our comprehensive review of the Citizen Promaster Diver!
Time+Tide
I don’t want to sound like a jaded watch journalist because – let’s be honest – those guys are the worst. But having said that, there were not too many surprises at Baselworld 2017. I knew we’d be seeing Speedmasters from Omega, a Sea-Dweller from Rolex and some crazy-but-cool collabs from Hublot. I didn’t expect to be … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Looking for a dressy daily wearer that’s a little left field? Try the Chopard L.U.C XP appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Today, the legacy of Audemars Piguet Calendars lives on in the black version, made of hand-finished black ceramic: the 2017 Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar
Revolution
Tudor’s Heritage Black Bay provides us with another watch to deplete our savings and exercise our credit cards - the Heritage Black Bay Dark adds total stealth to a modern classic.
Revolution
Tales of legendary watch collectors are legion, like the guy with one of every Greubel-Forsey model or 50 Rolex “Paul Newman” Daytonas. One collection that is not contested, because its owner produced a book documenting some of its treasures, is said to be even greater than the accumulation by the brand itself. Marcus Margulies, owner […]
Revolution
In one of our Basel 2014 reports Revolution’s Adi Soon presented the VIDEO about the new Louis Vuitton Escale World time already. An amazing looking and superb working watch, that was entirely produced in-house. (More about that later). Since the first Tambour watches were introduced in 2002, we have seen the Louis Vuitton watch collection growing […]
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comparative review jlc vulcain diver alarm deep sea nautical seventies re-issue
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comparative review diver watches jlc vulcain deep sea nautical seventies alarm
Revolution
For some absurd reason, there are some people who still don’t think of Bulgari as being a company that produces technical watches. This is despite the fact that they have created - with the aid of their assimilated workshops from Daniel Roth and Gerald Genta - watches such as the automata repeaters “Il Giocatore” and […]
Deployant
The Lange Tourbograph is one of my favourite watches of all time…the complication is exquisite…a fusee chain tourbillon with split seconds chronograph. Created initially to be launched in 1994 together with the other iconic timepieces to showcase the new A. Lange & Sohne, this watch was so complicated, that it was decided to delay theRead More
Deployant
More novelties from ALS in SIHH 2011 Lange also introduced some new entry level watches to complete the Saxonia line. The line is now quite complete with the Saxonia Automatic, the Saxonial Flat Handwound, and the Saxonia World Time. First the Saxonia Automatic. The movement is a new movement, with a full rotor instead ofRead More
Monochrome
Spring is in the air, and French brand March LA.B celebrates its favourite month with a limited edition of its flagship AM2 watch collection. Founded in 2009 by three friends, united by a passion for surfing and retro design, the LA.B part of the brand’s name does not refer to a laboratory but to the […]
Time+Tide
Having founded La Fabrique du Temps and developed GPHG-winning watches, Michel Navas chats to Andrew about the scope of LFT's abilities.The post Michel Navas talks Louis Vuitton Voyager Plique-à-jour, and reviving a millennium-old enamelling technique appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Discover the Beaubleu La Pièce No. 1, a distinctive French dress watch with circular hands, a mysterious dial, and elegant vintage styling
Quill & Pad
Part of the appeal of watchmaking is that watchmakers often set themselves seemingly impossible goals: an ultra-thin movement, a highly complex movement, a highly skeletonized movement, a transparent movement, a movement with a power reserve that far exceeds practical requirements.
Fratello
With the Italian summer coming to an end, HTD is just in time to grace us with new colors for its Aquatìc divers for one last jump into the warm Mediterranean waters. But before jumping in, you first have to choose from the seven new variations joining the lineup. Don’t worry, though; it’s not as […] Visit Living La Dolce Vita: New Colors For The HTD Aquatìc Bicchierini And SpaceBoy Dive Watches to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Launched just a few weeks ago, the RM 64-01 Tourbillon Colnago is modelled on the Colnago C68, the same road bike used by Tadej Pogacar, the current Tour de France champion who has long worn a Richard Mille while racing. Though new, the RM 64-01 is still quintessential Richard Mille in form, substance, and price. The watch is large, lightweight, and exceptionally, satisfyingly ergonomic. As is tradition, the RM64-01 movement is the work of Audemars Piguet Le Locle, formerly known as Renaud Papi. The case material is made by longtime partner NTPT, a Swiss carbon composites specialist. And in the great tradition of Richard Mille, the RM 64-01 is very expensive. Tadej Pogacar with the RM 64-01. Image – Richard Mille Initial thoughts The RM 64-01 is the typical large format tonneau-shaped case shared with most current Richard Mille models. At about 43 mm wide, almost 50 mm long, and over 14 mm tall, the case is big, but sits perfectly on the wrist thanks to its curvature and lightness. And while thick, integrated rubber straps normally detract from wearability, the strap adds to the ergonomics of the RM 64-01. The watch is almost entirely in bright white, with accents of bright blue and rose gold — it makes a statement, even from a distance, as most Richard Mille watches do. But zoom in past the over-the-top aesthetics and the movement reveals fine detailing. The blue and white bridges are all titanium, but painted by hand to mimic the Colnago C68 bike frame. The tradition...
SJX Watches
Having explored several concepts related to energy systems in watchmaking, from mainspring barrel capacity to automatic winding and the chain and fusee, our technical series continues with a detailed examination of how that energy reaches the escapement. A vital part of all watch movements, gears are usually taken for granted and generally not given much thought. But upon closer look, gear tooth profiles vary in shape and size. These seemingly minor variations have big implications and reveal various calculated trade-offs. We take a closer look at the different gear profiles used in watchmaking and review their particularities and evolutions over time. History and curves Mechanical timekeeping is inextricably linked to the concept of gears and transmissions. Long before the invention of the hairspring, early craftsmen and horologists were already using toothed wheels in conjunction with weights, verge escapements, and pendulums to measure the passage of time. Historically, gear-cutters were separate professionals who catered to clock makers. Horological lore has it that the tooth profiles used during the 1600s were traced after the thumb’s shape, although it’s difficult find evidence for this theory. The invention of the hairspring marked a step-change in the technical evolution of the watch, and the later development of detached escapements enhanced precision further. These advances revealed transmission problems that had previously been masked by larger timing er...
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