Deployant
Live from WWG26: Rolex new releases
Our next live update is the WWG26 novelties from Rolex. Please find our commentary and release details on this article published yesterday.
1,056 articles · 40 videos found · page 11 of 37
Deployant
Our next live update is the WWG26 novelties from Rolex. Please find our commentary and release details on this article published yesterday.
SJX Watches
Since “Jacob and Jeweller” made its first foray into fine watchmaking two decades ago, Jacob & Co. has positioned itself as a master of maximalism in all its forms, both bejewelled and technical, with some of the brands’s most audacious creations free of gem-setting entirely. The story of Jacob & Co.’s rise as an independent watchmaker features a celebrated cast of constructors. While other brands focused on vertical integration, Jacob & Co. opted to become a patron of promising complication specialists and independent watchmakers, funding their visions while challenging them with its own. Now, 20 years on, Jacob & Co. has evolved into a major player in the ultra-high end watchmaking segment, and is one of the fastest growing brands in an otherwise downbeat market; according to the brand, its 2025 watch sales were close to CHF300 million at retail. The brand’s obvious success is due to both its astute commercial instincts, founder Jacob Arabo’s inimitable personality, and also its ability to bring technically demanding movements to market and iterate on them with remarkable regularity. The gongs of a minute repeating Astronomia, one of the line’s many flankers. Few brands have managed to build credibility in both jewellry and watchmaking simultaneously. On the occasion of the brand’s 40th anniversary, it’s worth looking at how Jacob & Co. has succeeded where others have failed. Chapter 1: The Quenttin Jacob & Co.’s first 20 years were somewhat quiet on...
Monochrome
The original Jui came out last year as a collaboration between Hong Kong-based Watch Ho & Co(mmunity) and microbrand Selten, and it did not stay under the radar for long. It was one of those watches that quietly hit the sweet spot, with a detailed dial and a strong concept at a price that felt […]
Worn & Wound
Once again, here I am late to the party as our own Zach Kazan blows my mind with another brand specializing in artistic dials featuring my favorite métiers d’art craft: enameling. You may recall when he first covered the partnership between De Rijke & Co. and the illustrator Guy Allen two years ago. Now the duo is back with another trio of driver’s watches spanning on the previous Amalfi theme, this time with a stronger focus on the automotive angle. While the Dutch watchmaker and the British artist have been teaming up for nearly a decade, the pair took their work to the next level in 2024 by collaborating on their first set of watches, establishing the Amalfi special editions. The initial set of three watches focused on the themes of air, land, and sea with distinct designs and color palettes reflecting each element. Thanks to champlevé enamel, the illustrations come to life with texture and depth. For the uninitiated, the specific technique of champlevé enamel (French for “raised field”) is similar to cloisonné. However, instead of raised sections to hold enamel, reservoirs to hold the material are created by carving directly into the metal base. The newest trio builds on these designs, but now takes the automotive theme more literally on both the enamel dial and the engraved caseback. The names of the models draw from three regions, the Amazon, Sahara, and Turini, and each gets a corresponding vehicle you might drive there. For the Amazon, you get the Landr...
Fratello
Good morning, Fratelli, and welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown. Today will be a fully digital installment. When Seiko introduced the “Rotocall” re-editions, many enthusiasts got excited. The original ’80s watch, also known as the “Astronaut,” was used on many space missions, and its practical, uniquely designed bezel is a standout feature. We already put […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Seiko Rotocall Re-Editions Vs. Casio G-Shock Square In Steel to read the full article.
Fratello
Audemars Piguet has created a bespoke Royal Oak Tourbillon dash clock for the one-off Bugatti F.K.P. Hommage. Honoring 20 years since the launch of the Bugatti Veyron, this unique creation takes a modern Bugatti Mistral platform and incorporates design cues from the original, legendary 1,001PS hypercar. Displaying meticulous attention to detail with luxury materials and […] Visit Bugatti’s F.K.P. Hommage Features An Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Tourbillon As A Luxury Dash Clock to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
I’ll be honest and say it right off the bat: the G-SHOCK MRGB2000KT3A is not for me. Still, I am just one person in an endless ocean of watch enthusiasts, so I’ll try to take a look at the MRGB2000KT3A through the eyes of someone it is for. After all, I am not immune to the allure of a G-SHOCK; I’ve owned several, and they’ll always have a place in my heart as one of the first watch brands that I really loved. So, with my new persona adopted, let’s dive into the newest-and most limited-model in the MRG-B2000 series. The first notable thing about the MRGB2000KT3A is the name attached to it. Kobayashi Masao, a master metalsmith and engraver from Otsu, Shiga Prefecture, has lent his craft to the watch in a big way, etching a phoenix on the bezel. Perhaps I am making that sound rather tame, though; to clarify, the phoenix peeks out from the left side of the bezel, with flames mirroring its position on the right side. The engraving’s dramatic persona is based on the phoenix design on the tsuba iron guard-a fitting between a Japanese sword’s hilt and the blade-of Kobayashi Masao’s MR-G katana, making a connection between the watch and the artist’s own line of work. The deep-layer hardened titanium bezel wears a distinctive blue-green kurogane-iro (“iron color”) shade, thanks to a green DLC coating and brown Arc Ion Plating (AIP). Stippling further texturizes the bezel, and four emerald-capped screws sit at the 1, 5, 7, and 11 o’clock positions. No...
Worn & Wound
Among the new releases at LVMH Watch Week this year were a series of novelties from brands that casual observers might sometimes forget sit inside the LVMH portfolio. Tiffany & Co., Gerald Genta, and Daniel Roth all unveiled new pieces this week to varying degrees of fanfare. And while these boutique luxury brands are very different in shape from the likes of TAG Heuer, Zenith, and Hublot, which really form the core of the LVMH watch business, it says a lot about the power and reach of LVMH as an entity that these brands fall under their purview. All three brands are recent additions to the LVMH stable, with Gerald Genta joining upon its relaunch in 2023, TIffayny & Co. when the sale of the company to LVMH went through in 2021, and Daniel Roth in 2011, when LVMH acquired Bulgari, then caretakers of Roth’s brand (LVMH relaunched Daniel Roth as a separate entity in 2023). These three brands also seem arranged in the LVMH ecosystem to compete directly with high end independent brands, particularly Daniel Roth, a name once seen as preeminent in the world of independent watchmaking. Let’s run through the key releases from each brand at this year’s LVMH Watch Week. Tiffany & Co. debuted the Tiffany Timer, a three register chronograph with El Primero movement that flies under the radar, perhaps, in a few ways. First and foremost, that white metal case is not steel or white gold, but solid platinum. And the indices at each hour are baguette cut diamonds, which seems like a...
SJX Watches
Since taking over Tiffany & Co. in 2020, LVMH has gradually revamped the American jeweller, starting with its retail stores and jewellery. The reboot of its watchmaking division has proceeded more slowly, and with jewelled ladies’ watches first. Now Tiffany & Co. has finally turned to men’s watches with the Tiffany Timer, a chronograph powered by the Zenith El Primero 400 movement. With a dial lacquered in Tiffany’s trademark blue, the Tiffany Timer is easily recognisable. And on the back, the movement gets a hand-engraved, solid gold “Bird on a Rock” on the rotor. The Tiffany Timer is a promising start, but the jeweller clearly still has a long way to go to compete with its rivals, or even luxury marques like Louis Vuitton and Chanel. Initial thoughts The Tiffany Timer has a few things in its favour, but isn’t quite good enough. The design is classical and appealing, though a little generic. Granted, the dial might seem a bit much, but for a small-run edition it makes sense. The baguette diamond indices on the Tiffany Blue dial are a nice touch, as is the “Bird on the Rock” on the rotor; both add a touch of luxe to the watch. The El Primero adds horological credibility, but only up to a degree. The El Primero is a historical movement with many strengths, but the El Primero isn’t quite high-end enough for a watch of this price. It would make more sense in an affordable, steel version of the Tiffany Timer that is presumably in the works. All in all the Tif...
SJX Watches
Inspired by 1930s Russian fairytale, Raketa’s latest is the Golden Key, an unusual watch that further expands the brand’s diverse repertoire. The cushioned-shaped watch has a case of walnut wood – this evokes historical wooden clocks and watches from Eastern Europe – and includes a winding key, though it can be wound conventionally via the crown as well. Though modelled on a similar 1970s Raketa model, the modern-day creation is a surprisingly apt adaption of its namesake, The Golden Key, or The Adventures of Buratino, a Russian version of Pinocchio that also includes a wooden puppet that comes to life, but also includes a golden key as central to the tale. Like all Raketa watches, this is affordable and powered by an in-house movement, albeit a basic calibre descended from a Soviet era construction. Initial thoughts The Golden Key has a recognisable 1970s look thanks to its shape and dial, but still manages to stand out because of the wood case. The case and dial are detailed nicely enough so the watch avoids looking like a novelty souvenir. The winding does feel like a bit of a gimmick, but it has no bearing on the function of the watch, which can be wound via the crown anyway. Raketa stuck to the colours of the 1970s original with the Golden Key, making it pleasing but also plain. A more adventurous combination of wood and colour would have made it more interesting; I’m sure that’s on the cards if this one sells well. The only weakness of the watch is arguab...
Time+Tide
Zach shares a summary of the “Ushering the New Age of Luxury” panel that took place at the FHH's New York Watch Summit earlier this year.The post NYU Stern professor believes “brand building, democratisation, and retail experience” are key bottlenecks for luxury watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Celebrating the 180th anniversary of François Czapek’s Genevan watch enterprise and the 10th anniversary of the rebirth of the brand, Czapek releases the fourth and final chapter in its round of celebratory watches. Following the anniversary Antarctique Tourbillon, the Antarctique Plique-à-Jour and the Time Jumper, the last member of the quartet is the Quai des […]
Worn & Wound
There are few for whom this title is apt, but Mr. Kikuo Ibe is a certified living legend. The father of G-Shock, which has sold over 100 million watches worldwide, Kikuo Ibe graciously shares his journey through the conception, development, and journey of G-Shock. It’s a story of toughness and perseverance, not only of the watch, but also the man behind it. View the full presentation in the following video or follow along in text. The following conversation has been lightly edited for brevity and clarity. Host: Welcome, Worn & Wound community. We’re honored to have you here today, and it’s a privilege to introduce Kikuo Ibe, the founder of G-Shock. Mr. Ibe will be available after the presentation for a meet and greet, and we have watches available for purchase and signing-truly collectible items. Please give him a warm welcome. Kikuo Ibe: Arigato. Good afternoon, everyone. I’m very pleased to be here in New York and to have this opportunity to meet you. Thank you very much for joining us this afternoon. My name is Kikuo Ibe, and I love the USA and New York. Thank you. This year marks the 42nd anniversary of G-Shock. G-Shock keeps growing thanks to great retail partners, media, and fans worldwide. Your strong support is a big reason why G-Shock has been so successful for so long. I thank you from the bottom of my heart. I’m delighted to be here to share the G-Shock story with you. Forty-four years ago, on my way to work, I dropped a precious watch that had been ...
Deployant
The Kollokium Projekt 01 Variant “G” is a limited edition of 499 pieces, retailing for SGD 5,555 including taxes. It offers a restrained chromatic update to the brand’s neubrutalist platform, with two handset options and a continued emphasis on texture, contrast, and industrial execution.
Monochrome
Vaer is an American brand founded in 2016 that specialises in accessible yet refined watches for all occasions. Sure, we’ve heard this theme countless times, but details add up to make Vaer’s offerings a bit different and special. The G5 Pacific Steel 39mm USA GMT is a prime example that offers true (or traveller’s) GMT […]
SJX Watches
Awarded annually by the Musée International d’Horlogerie (MIH), one of Switzerland’s leading timekeeping museums, the Prix Gaïa recognises individuals who have contributed to watchmaking in three categories. This year’s winner in the “History [and] Research” category is Dr Helmut Crott. Best known for having founded the eponymous auction house, Dr Crott is also an author, scholar, and former owner of Urban Jürgensen, amongst other roles. In 2021 he authored Le Cadran, an in-depth study of dials and dial making techniques of 20th century wristwatches. Le Cadran by Dr Helmut Crott Past winners of the Prix Gaïa include Reinhard Meis, Jonathan Betts, Pierre-Yves Donzé, Kathleen Pritschard, and Ludwig Oechslin, all scholars and authors who have contributed substantively to the body of knowledge in the field. Alongside Dr Crott, this year’s winners are Jean-Jacques Paolini for “Entrepreneurship”, and Roger W. Smith for “Craftsmanship [and] Creation”. As the successor to Georges Daniels’ brand of English watchmaking, Mr Smith now produces watches under his own name, with his achievements and timepieces well known. Jean-Jacques Paolini Mr Paolini, on the other hand, is less known outside the industry, but he is arguably most responsible for building the enterprise that’s the largest employer in La Chaux-de-Fonds. In 1980, Mr Paolini took over his family’s case and bracelet manufacturing business, developing its operations sufficiently that it was acq...
SJX Watches
Casio’ latest addition to its famous, shock-resistant sports watch is the G-Shock MT-G MTG-B4000 that was designed with the aid of artificial intelligence (AI). According to Casio, the new MT-G’s design was refined by AI using factors like shock resistance and machinability, resulting in an sleeker profile that departs from the chunky and flat style of the typical G-Shock. As part of the higher-end MT-G line that combines metal with resin, the solar-powered MTG-B4000 has a stainless steel inner case along with an outer case in carbon composite. More notably, the bezel has been polished with the Sallaz flat polishing technique that’s also known as Zaratsu and more often applied to premium mechanical watches by other Japanese watchmakers. The new MT-G is made in Japan like all high-end G-Shock models Initial thoughts Casio’s first attempt at an AI-designed G-Shock was the G-D001 Dream Project #2 in solid, 18k gold made to mark the 40th anniversary of the G-Shock. It was a one-off, unlike the limited edition vintage remake that was also in 18k gold. While the Dream Project #2 was impressive in its form and heft, the open-worked design was a little weird. It looks both sci-fi and fantasy, but with the wrong proportions of each. The new MT-G, on the other hand, looks more conventional and appealing. It still looks like a G-Shock, but different enough to be distinct. In fact, AI has argued improved the MT-G style, evolving it from the robot-like form of before to somethi...
Worn & Wound
Seeing a watch made by Naoya Hida & Co. in person for the first time was one of those moments when you truly realize that you have to experience a watch in the metal before casting judgement. At the time, the brand was only in its second full year, and most of the people commenting on the watches in online forums, Instagram, etc. were reacting to what they perceived as an exorbitant price tag. These specific watches, after all, used a (highly) modified Valjoux 7750 as the base movement – not exactly high horology. But when you handle one of these watches, wear it, and, importantly, turn the crown, you realize you’re dealing with an object that’s largely handmade, a fully fleshed out complete thought with a singular perspective. That’s a pretty rare thing, as are the hand carved dials that have become an aesthetic signature of the brand, and truly require magnification to fully grapple with. Naoya Hida & Co. has just unveiled their new slate of watches for 2025, and I imagine we’re heading for some of the same conversations we’ve heard before, but there’s a new watch in this crop of releases that should quiet at least some of the naysayers. The marquee release in this year’s lineup is the NH Type 6A, Naoya Hida’s most complicated watch to date and their first perpetual calendar. The 6A is made in the same vintage inspired style as all of Naoya Hida’s other watches, evoking classic pieces by Patek Philippe and others (but mostly Patek, let’s be honest...
Worn & Wound
James Cox (c.1723-1800) was a British jeweler, goldsmith and entrepreneur and the proprietor of Cox’s Museum. Cox produced lavishly ornamented automata for trade with the Far East, first with India and then with China, where the reception of his ‘toys’ or ‘sing-songs’, as the Chinese are believed to have called them, was at first a huge success. Cox was an extraordinary gentleman living in 18th century London. This was a time of great opulence with the wealthiest showing their status through objects they commissioned and owned. Cox was a clockmaker, jeweler, and entrepreneur known for creating elaborate and decorative timepieces, automata, and mechanical curiosities. He gained fame for his luxury goods, which were highly sought after by the elite. Cox’s work blended mechanical innovation with exquisite craftsmanship, producing items that were not just functional but also ornamental and artistic. Cox’s career as a jeweler began as early as 1751, and his automata were designed by leading artists including Johann Zoffany and Joseph Nollekens. In the 1760s, John Joseph Merlin became his apprentice. Though he declared himself a goldsmith, he employed several jewelers and manufacturers who would have done much of the work. Jewel cabinet with watch signed James Cox, c.1765-70. Image courtesy of the Met Museum This cabinet is an excellent example of an exquisite item made by Cox and bearing his signature. On its doors are enameled personifications of Winter and S...
Worn & Wound
One of the great pleasures of G-SHOCK is the sheer variety of watches in their catalog. It’s a bit of a canard, but there truly is something for every taste in G-SHOCK world. In terms of functionality, colors, and materials, there is a seemingly endless series of permutations. It’s something that works well for them on multiple fronts. First and foremost, it means that anyone in the market for a G-SHOCK has real options in front of them. Choice, in most situations, and certainly when it comes to function-first watches, is a good thing. The more opportunity to hone in a user’s specific needs, the better. Secondly, it helps foster the incredible collecting and enthusiast community that has been built around G-SHOCK over the years. The opportunity to discover new pieces, find connections between them, and share them with the community is part of what makes G-SHOCK special. Their latest collection, the G-STEEL Fine Metallic Series presents both an important and heretofore unavailable option for potential customers, as well as opening up a new segment for the collecting community. The watches that mark the beginning of this series are core to what we expect from the brand, but it’s easy to imagine limited editions and collaborations filling out this line in the not too distant future. The G-STEEL Fine Metallic Series branding is a bit of a misnomer as the big selling point of these watches is not the metallic piece at all, but the new strap that G-SHOCK is introducing...
Fratello
RZE has been working hard over the past five years, claiming its rightful place at the table of established microbrands. We took notice at Fratello, as confirmed by our collaborative release just last year. Today, the brand introduces a rather interesting new stage in its development - digital timekeeping. This is the new RZE UTD-8000. […] Visit Go Digital With The Brand-New RZE UTD-8000 In UltraHex Titanium to read the full article.
Hodinkee
After a decade of development, G-Shock is unveiling its new 'Tough Silicone' in six new releases.
Time+Tide
What's the difference between a G-Shock and a Pro Trek? And why is Casio Oceanus so expensive? We might have an answer for you.The post A guide to every Casio brand, from affordable calculator watches to four-figure metal G-Shocks appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Having acquired Tiffany & Co. in 2020, LVMH set about remaking the storied American jeweller. That extended to Tiffany’s watch division, which now debuts the first flagship creation under new ownership, the Bird on a Flying Tourbillon. Led since 2021 by Nicolas Beau, the former chief of Chanel watches, Tiffany’s watch division turned to independent watchmaker Artime for the movement of the new tourbillon. Set with some 4 carats of diamonds, the Bird on a Flying Tourbillon features an off-centre dial layout with a flying tourbillon at seven o’clock, along with a turquoise marquetry dial bearing a pair of diamond-set birds in flight. Initial thoughts One of Tiffany’s best-known jewellery designs, the Bird on the Rock has been a fixture in the brand’s catalogue for decades. A horological twist on the concept, the Bird on a Flying Tourbillon is clearly part of an effort to position the design as a versatile icon that is Tiffany’s equivalent of the Serpenti. It’s a little bigger and thicker than the traditional ladies’ watch, though reminiscent of the MB&F; LM Flying T. The reason for the size is the AFT24T01 movement inside, which is more interesting than usual as it was developed for Tiffany & Co. by Artime, a recently established independent brand. The AFT24T01 has a high quality execution with appealing details, but it’s related to Artime’s own calibre for a men’s skeleton tourbillon, explaining its large size. As an opening effort, the Bird on a Flying...
Monochrome
In 2021, esteemed independent watchmaker Romain Gauthier unveiled his first luxury sports watch, the Continuum, aka the ‘C’, and a year later designed an integrated titanium bracelet for this watch. Since its debut, the C has appeared with cases in titanium and luxury editions in platinum, fitted with rubber straps or integrated metal bracelets, flaunting […]
Worn & Wound
Editor’s Note: Today, the final installment of The Greatest Horological Inventions of All Time. Here, Andrew Canter examines the story behind the co-axial escapement, invented by George Daniels, industrialized by Omega, and now considered one of the great watchmaking innovations of all time. You can find more of Andrew’s work at the Mr. Watchmaster website here. George Daniels (1926 – 2011) was raised in London in poverty. Aged five, he pried open his family’s alarm clock and realised that it was a metaphor for his life – always moving inexorably onwards, but without outside assistance. He was determined to learn horology, despite his parents’ opposition. He was conscripted into military service in 1944 which unleashed his innate mechanical skills, and following the end of the war, he studied horology, while repairing watches in North London. He gained access to the work of the greatest watchmakers, particularly Abraham-Louis Breguet, through a meeting with a collector, and when it seemed that quartz technology would overwhelm traditional watchmaking, Daniels ensured this would not come to fruition. He made a series of increasingly ingenious mechanical watches, heavily influenced by Breguet, teaching himself to make every part, now referred to as the ‘Daniels Method’. Essentially, he devised a virtually oil-free escapement – the now iconic co-axial escapement – which was later mass-produced by Omega. It was anything but an easy journey, but George D...
Fratello
To put it mildly, Ebel is not the most active brand. But if the products are okay, that goes a long way. Ebel was a force to reckon with back in the 1980s and early 1990s. The brand was everywhere, from the wrists of the world’s best tennis players to those of kids who had […] Visit Hands-On: The 37mm Ebel Sport Classic - A Go-To Watch Of Yesteryear Is Still Relevant to read the full article.
Monochrome
It’s a matter of course in the journey of each and every watch enthusiast that he or she will someday stumble upon the G-SHOCK line of watches from CASIO, and have to come to terms with how they feel about them. A large majority of those folks will inevitably decide to call themselves a G-SHOCK […]
Worn & Wound
When Christopher Ward announced the C60 Trident Lumière a few weeks back, the emphasis-errr-the spotlight was put on using massive Globolight lume plots on the dial. Twelve individually molded lume-infused ceramic monoliths promised to glow like cartoon uranium studded the dial per hour. A dial they claimed cost them 4x the usual. Well, after a few weeks with the watch, while I can attest that the lume is very impressive, it’s not why the C60 Trident Lumière is successful. Rather, it’s simply because it’s the best-executed tool/sports watch the brand has made, at least that I’ve encountered. The proportions are refined, the finishing is excellent, and the aesthetic is cohesive. The C60 Trident Lumière (just Lumière from here out), like the Twelve X and Bel Canto, demonstrates that Christopher Ward is a brand operating at a level on par with or higher than big Swiss brands at an equivalent price, a function of, but not a given, with their D2C model. However, it’s perhaps more impressive in some respects than those other two watches because it’s not a showpiece. No, the Lumière is a mainline, if higher priced, offering for the brand. Which is to say, it’s a sign of what they can do on a “normal” watch and, thus, perhaps, a sign of what to expect in the future. But, enough hyperbole. Clearly, I am a bit taken with the Lumière, so let’s get into the details. $2390 Review: Christopher Ward’s Best Diver Ever? The C60 Trident Lumière Case Grade 2 ...
Worn & Wound
Editor’s Note: This post on the new Leica Q3 43mm from Ben Carpenter, Director of Marketing at Camera West, appears in a longer version on the Camera West blog. Today, Leica announced the Leica Q3 43, a highly anticipated addition to their popular Leica Q series. At Camera West and Leica Store San Francisco, we’ve long been hoping for a longer focal length in the Q lineup, and many of those that we meet through our stores have expressed the same. It’s exciting to finally see this come to fruition with the release of the Q3 43mm. The Leica Q3 43mm offers a “sweet spot” focal length between 35mm and 50mm. This seemingly odd focal length isn’t new for Leica-past cameras like the Minilux, CM, and CL featured a 40mm focal length, which have their own dedicated fan base. While the original 28mm Q lens has its enthusiasts, the 43mm provides a more compressed field of view that some photographers may prefer. Both the Q3 43mm and the Standard Q3 (28mm) share the same internal components, including the 60MP BSI sensor, autofocus system, and OLED viewfinder, but the standout feature of the Q3 43 is its 43mm f2 APO-Summicron ASPH lens, which delivers superior microcontrast and precision thanks to Leica’s advanced optical design. Details At A Glance – The Leica Q3 43mm APO-Summicron 43mm F2 lens contains 4 aspherical elements and a leaf shutter just like its predecessors ISO Range of 50-100k 60mp BSI Sensor with triple resolution technology (18/36/60MP) and 8k vid...
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