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MICRO MONDAYS: Furlan Marri deliver retro chronographs at a great price in their assured debut collection Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Mar 7, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: Furlan Marri deliver retro chronographs at a great price in their assured debut collection

The 1940s were peak years for twin register chronographs with some notable greats from Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and Lemania.  As the functional sports watches of that era, the typical twin register layout was balanced with a delicate design language and an often whimsical art-deco flourish to the graphics. In 2021, their intricate detail and … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Furlan Marri deliver retro chronographs at a great price in their assured debut collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing the Novel, Made-in-Russia Ouroboros SJX Watches
Feb 28, 2021

Introducing the Novel, Made-in-Russia Ouroboros

Conceived by Russian watch journalist Mikhail Goncharov and executed with the help of watchmaker Maxim Sushkov, the Ouroboros is a simple-but-smart take on the 24-hour time display. The watch evolved from an idea of Mr Goncharov’s, which combines a novel time display along with design elements from the Jewish faith. Initial thoughts Unusual and striking, the Ouroboros is imaginative in how it conveys the time, but also surprisingly straightforward mechanically. As a result it is notably affordable, starting at about US$2,700 for the steel version. The case appears basic in style and finish, but it is sufficient given the cost of the watch. The only possible shortcoming of the watch might be the obvious elements related to Judaism, like the case back motif for instance, which might not be suitable for everyone, but they do not take away from the intrinsic appeal of the watch. The snake eating its own tail The watch gets its name from the ouroboros, an ancient symbol of life and renewal that is represented by a serpent or dragon consuming its own tail, forming a circle or a figure of eight. The ouroboros forms the minute hand, which is a dragon rendered in considerable detail. Its eye is inlaid with a tiny piece of metal taken from a missile of Iron Dome, the air-defence system employed by Israel to protect against short-range rockets. Mr Goncharov describes the tiny missile fragment as a protective talisman within the watch. Also specific to Israel is the dial, which ...

HANDS ON: The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red presents a dial that’ll make you weep Time+Tide
H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Centre Feb 21, 2021

HANDS ON: The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red presents a dial that’ll make you weep

The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red ticks all my own personal boxes in a big way. The fact that I am a dial man who loves a coloured face and has a marked preference for three-hand watches makes it seem perfect on paper. Fortunately, it’s even better in the metal. … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red presents a dial that’ll make you weep appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

You cannot be serious! Shouts of “Rolex” could soon replace “Out” calls at the tennis Time+Tide
Rolex could soon replace Feb 17, 2021

You cannot be serious! Shouts of “Rolex” could soon replace “Out” calls at the tennis

It’s turned into a mighty strange Australian Open. Before the Grand Slam event began, many players were herded into quarantine and forced to practise their drop-shots against their hotel-room walls. Next up, crowds were barred from Rod Laver Arena when Melbourne entered a hard five-day lockdown. Yet perhaps the most enduring change from this tournament … ContinuedThe post You cannot be serious! Shouts of “Rolex” could soon replace “Out” calls at the tennis appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Piaget’s Luxury-Sports Watch Gets the Skeleton Treatment SJX Watches
Piaget s Luxury-Sports Watch Gets Feb 2, 2021

Piaget’s Luxury-Sports Watch Gets the Skeleton Treatment

Long in Piaget’s catalogue – the original model was introduced in 1979 – the Polo underwent a significant redesign in 2016, transforming the charmingly 1970s original into the Polo S. Now the brand’s entry into the luxury-sports watch segment has received a major facelift with the Polo Skeleton, which boasts an open-worked movement that gives it a strikingly more distinctive aesthetic. But more than just a new face, the Polo Skeleton is also a step up in terms of wearability and sleekness: the open-worked movement results in a thinner case – one that’s a substantial 3 mm slimmer. The result is a case with proportions rivalling those of the thinnest-ever luxury-sports watch made by a certain Italian jeweller. Initial thoughts The revamp of the Polo five years ago stirred controversy, because the Polo S was a departure from the style of the vintage original, and a turn towards fashionable and predictable designs like the recently discontinued Nautilus. Still, the Polo S did combine strong quality with competitive pricing, explaining its subsequent commercial success. The original controversy means the Polo Skeleton is a better idea. Besides being more original visually, it incorporates many of the brand’s technical strengths. Ultra-thin watches are Piaget’s forte – the brand boasts the thinnest mechanical watch ever – and the 1200S  skeleton movement reflects that, being extra-thin and extra-revealing. The Polo Skeleton is a mere 6.5 mm high The Polo...

INTRODUCING: The Piaget Polo Skeleton watch is now 30% thinner at 6.5mm thick Time+Tide
Piaget Polo Skeleton watch Feb 2, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Piaget Polo Skeleton watch is now 30% thinner at 6.5mm thick

The Piaget Polo was first introduced in 1979, inspired by the jet-setting lifestyle and where luxury met sport. Its release coincided with Piaget becoming a sponsor for Polo tournaments around the world. Yves Piaget personally loved to attend these events, their glamour, sport, and spontaneity inspiring the Polo watch design. The Piaget Polo watch has … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Piaget Polo Skeleton watch is now 30% thinner at 6.5mm thick appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breguet Debuts the Intriguing, Ingenious Valentine’s Day Special SJX Watches
Blancpain has made it Jan 15, 2021

Breguet Debuts the Intriguing, Ingenious Valentine’s Day Special

Breguet, as well as its sister brand Blancpain, has made it a habit to introduce a Valentine’s Day edition each year. They are typically variations of existing ladies’s watches that have been dressed up with extra mother of pearl or diamonds; they are rarely interesting mechanically. But for Valentine’s Day 2021, Breguet has the Reine de Naples Cœur 9825 up its sleeve, and it is a surprisingly interesting watch. Presented in the familiar egg-shaped Reine de Naples case, the Cœur edition (coeur is “heart” in French) is inspired by 18th century “expanding hands” pocket watches. Initial thoughts Breguet is capable of many impressive complications – demonstrated by watches like the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395 – but they are rarely quirky. Though inspired by historical pocket watches, the Reine de Naples Cœur is clever and original. The repeated use of hearts throughout the design feels a bit affected – the five-minute markers are all tiny hearts – but the watch remains graceful, with a subtle complication that isn’t immediately apparent. Although no photos of the movement are available yet, the cal. 78A0 inside is almost certainly constructed and decorated to a high level, as all Breguet watches are. The fact that it’s limited to just 28 watches is a bit of a shame, especially considering the reasonable price tag of just over US$46,000. Expanding hands Pocket watches with “expanding hands” were invented sometime in the earl...

Comedian Jimmy Carr has got some astounding watches and is a Patek Philippe fiend Time+Tide
Patek Philippe fiend Jimmy Carr Jan 12, 2021

Comedian Jimmy Carr has got some astounding watches and is a Patek Philippe fiend

Jimmy Carr is one of my favourite comedians. His quick wit consistently incites belly laughs while his risqué punchlines are some of the best in the business. What’s less known about the British comedian is his incredible taste for watches, which he puts on full display throughout the comedy show Your Face or Mine that he … ContinuedThe post Comedian Jimmy Carr has got some astounding watches and is a Patek Philippe fiend appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Our sexiest watch shots of 2020 plus five tips to take better watch pics yourself Time+Tide
Jan 10, 2021

Our sexiest watch shots of 2020 plus five tips to take better watch pics yourself

OK, honesty time: I’m a self-confessed dial obsessive. Don’t get me wrong, the hypnotic ballet of a tourbillon still tugs my heartstrings so much it hurts. But have that poking out of a masterful dial and I’m ready to sell my BMW. The dial is the face, the first impression and, for me, the absolute … ContinuedThe post Our sexiest watch shots of 2020 plus five tips to take better watch pics yourself appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar Jan 6, 2021

Up Close: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar

Having revived the Master Control line early last year, Jaeger-LeCoultre largely translated models from the 1990s into the present day, save for one all-new watch, the Master Control Chronograph Calendar. The Chronograph Calendar features two complications that JLC long offered individually, but never combined before – the chronograph and triple calendar with moon phase. Taking its cues from the bestselling, 1990s collection of the same name, the Master Control is a gentleman’s watch in several flavours, all defined by a subtly retro style. Though a new model, the Chronograph Calendar retains the same style, while having a movement that’s the brand’s longstanding chronograph calibre with the addition of its well-known triple calendar module. The “Master Control” moniker originated from the fact that watches in the original collection were all tested for 1000 hours Initial thoughts Possessing a solid, workmanlike build and finish, the Chronograph Calendar sticks to the ageless Master Control look of the 1990s, more or less. While a couple of details could be improved – one reasonably expects more of the movement given JLC’s history – the Chronograph Calendar is good overall. The Calendar Chronograph in rose gold (left) and steel Visually, the Calendar Chronograph is a largish watch, though it doesn’t measure as such. At 40 mm wide and 12.05 mm high – close in size to the Rolex Daytona – the Chronograph Calendar is moderately sized, but the desig...

Glashütte Original, Blancpain and Mido make up Luke’s three favourite watches of 2020 Time+Tide
Glashütte Original Blancpain Jan 1, 2021

Glashütte Original, Blancpain and Mido make up Luke’s three favourite watches of 2020

The lack of watch fairs and face-to-face watch showings meant that I saw fewer watches in the metal in 2020 than I had done in the last 10 years. But this lack of face time didn’t stop me salivating over a few key pieces that shot straight to the top of my wish-list. These were … ContinuedThe post Glashütte Original, Blancpain and Mido make up Luke’s three favourite watches of 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Insight: Marco Lang Introduces the Zweigesicht-1 SJX Watches
Dec 22, 2020

Insight: Marco Lang Introduces the Zweigesicht-1

Marco Lang is now an independent watchmaker in the literal sense, having left Lang & Heyne last year. He’s set up a one-man workshop in his hometown of Dresden, and has just announced the first watch of his newly-established eponymous brand – Marco Lang Mr Lang’s first creation is the Zweigesicht-1, a highly-finished, time-only wristwatch with a few novel twists. Zwei gesicht is a literal description of the watch, translating as “two face” – the watch has the time display on both sides, with easily removable lugs that allow it to be worn on either side. The Zweigesicht-1 worn movement side up Initial thoughts As a watchmaker known for a devotion to old-school quality, Mr Lang’s second act promised to be noteworthy. The Zweigesicht-1 appears to live up to expectations, being a simple watch executed in an elaborate manner and finished by hand to a high standard. Harsh sounding to non-German speakers, the Zweigesicht-1 is ironically intricately constructed and finished. But unlike his earlier work that was modelled on pocket watch movements, the Caliber ml-01 looks modern and original, while still incorporating finely-shaped components as well as gears made of solid, 14k gold. The contrast of the steel bridges against the rose gold-plated base plate is jarring – especially with the aggressively pointed bridges with border outlines – but there’s not mistaking the quality, even in images, because Mr Lang knows what he’s doing. The chapter ring for the ...

Cricket legend Michael Clarke: Hublot is a game-changer “that is never scared to be different” Time+Tide
Hublot Dec 16, 2020

Cricket legend Michael Clarke: Hublot is a game-changer “that is never scared to be different”

What’s the best way to celebrate the 40th anniversary of Hublot for the Australian arm of the brand? Through our national sport of cricket, of course. And that’s exactly what Hublot Australia have done, bringing together two Australian cricketing greats in Michael Clarke and Pat Cummins to mark the launch of the new Hublot Classic … ContinuedThe post Cricket legend Michael Clarke: Hublot is a game-changer “that is never scared to be different” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breaking News: Paul Newman’s Rolex Daytona 6263 “Big Red” Sells for US$5.48m SJX Watches
Rolex Daytona 6263 “Big Red” Dec 12, 2020

Breaking News: Paul Newman’s Rolex Daytona 6263 “Big Red” Sells for US$5.48m

The most expensive wristwatch ever sold when it achieved US$17.52m at Phillips, the Rolex “Paul Newman” Daytona once owned by the actor was a high watermark in vintage Rolex collecting when it sold in 2017. And now Phillips has sold another vintage Daytona owned by the late actor – a ref. 6263 “Big Red” – for US$5.48m including fees. Gifted by Newman to his daughter Clea in 2008, the ref. 6263 was originally given to Newman by his wife, engraved with a dedication on the back, just like the Daytona sold in 2017. Though selling for less than the 2017 example, the ref. 6263 becomes the third most valuable Rolex sold at auction, after the first Paul Newman Daytona and the ref. 6062 “Bao Dai” once owned by the last Emperor of Vietnam. Paul Newman pictured with the ref. 6263 in the 1980s The bidding for the Daytona opened at a little under US$1.00m, but dramatically jumped to US$2.00m with a bid by Paul Boutros of Phillips’ New York office. It progressed swiftly, with numerous bidders contesting the lot. But the winner was the bidder represented by Livia Russo of Phillips in Geneva, who clinched it with a US$4.50m bid, which totals US$5.48m with fees. Intriguingly, auctioneer Aurel Bacs commented during the bidding that if Ms Russo’s client won the watch, it would disappear into a private collection like the record-setting Daytona sold in 2017 – though he did not say it was the same client that that bought both watches.  

Breaking News: Steve McQueen’s Heuer Monaco Sells for US$2.21m SJX Watches
TAG Heuer which Dec 12, 2020

Breaking News: Steve McQueen’s Heuer Monaco Sells for US$2.21m

An iconic auto-racing chronograph of the 1970s, the Monaco ref. 1133 was nicknamed the “Steve McQueen” after the actor wore one in the 1971 film Le Mans. And now one of the actual examples worn by McQueen in the film has just become the most expensive Heuer ever sold, achieving US$2.21m with fees at Phillips’ New York auction. There were several Monacos on hand for the production of Le Mans, with McQueen retaining two after filming wrapped. The record-setting watch in question is one of the two that McQueen gifted to Haig Alltounian, both the chief mechanic for the film as well as the actor’s personal mechanic. McQueen (left) and Haig Alltounian (far right) during the filming of Le Mans Mr Alltounian received the watch – engraved with “To Haig Le Mans 1970” on the back – just after filming for Le Mans concluded. Mr Alltounian himself consigned the watch to Phillips for its recent New York watch auction, making its provenance impeccable. The bidding opened at US$150,000, progressing steadily until the air thinned at the half-million dollar mark – which leads to the conclusion that the majority of bidders had a similar limit in mind. Then only three phone bidders were left. The three-way tussle ended with a US$1.8m hammer price – with London-based James Marks of Phillips winning the lot for his client. The result was US$2.2m inclusive of fees, an all-time record for any Heuer watch. It’s also a convenient feather in the cap for TAG Heuer, which is ...

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR 01 Cyber Skull SJX Watches
Bell & Ross Introduces Dec 1, 2020

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR 01 Cyber Skull

Bell & Ross’ signature BR wristwatch is essentially an aviation instrument in a square case, a style that works well as a military watch, explaining the iterations in camouflage or a fighter jet “heads-up display”. Sometimes associated with airborne troops, the skull is a recurring theme for the BR series, and one that has been continually refined over the last decade. The BR skull watch been redesigned both visually and mechanically, most notably with the proprietary, automaton-skull form movement of two years ago. With the new BR 01 Cyber Skull, the brand has taken a new aesthetic direction with a case and dial that is strikingly modern – polygonal, facetted, and very much like a sci-fi villain – making it vastly different from earlier skull watches that often seemed like nostalgic memento mori. Initial thoughts Bringing to mind Skynet and other technological villains, the Cyber Skull departs from the style of its predecessors that were characterised by an organic skull and elaborate case patterns, essentially a digitised version of the original BR Skull watch. Though simple, the design is done well, with a cohesive aesthetic with the case and dial echoing one another. The case is clearly derived from the original BR-01, but done with more facets and angles, with the polygonal surfaces continuing on the skull and crossbones. The BR 01 Laughing Skull White (left) and the BR 01 Cyber Skull Both the case and skull are made of black ceramic, while the movement ...

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Bamford Limited Edition Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Bamford Limited Edition Nov 26, 2020

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Bamford Limited Edition

Watch consumers are always looking for a fresh new face to add to their wrists and collections. The irony, however, is we also tend to flock to familiar designs – references we believe are iconic. So how do we solve this problem? As per usual, Bamford has the answer. The Bamford Watch Department is known … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Bamford Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Moon SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Nov 20, 2020

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Moon

Combining an unusual variety of complications that nevertheless go well aesthetically, the Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Moon is the latest tourbillon wristwatch from Jaeger-LeCoultre, which has made something of a speciality in iterating its tourbillon movements with various additional complications. Powered by the newly-developed cal. 983, the new watch features a moon phase, pointer date, and tourbillon regulator. And its case is made of Le Grand rose gold, a fade-resistant gold alloy unveiled only earlier in the year. Initial thoughts The Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Moon is a handsome watch executed in the typical Jaeger-LeCoultre style. The design is classical, with a handful of details that refine the look, including the applied hour markers and metal-deposition moon phase scale. And the movement is decorated well, though largely by mechanical methods, and the result is visually appealing. But it is a bit large at 41.5 mm in diameter, and also thick at 12.1 mm high – giving it dimensions similar to a sports chronograph. The cal. 983 in the Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Moon And the retail price of US$88,500 is high. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s strength is haute horlogerie in the middle of the price segment – though it’s been drifting upwards – alongside brands like Ulysse Nardin and H. Moser & Cie. But both those brands recently launched tourbillons of comparable quality – the Blast and Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon respectively – that cost less. Master To...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: SIHH 2021 is already cancelled, Cartier is feeling very generous and it’s a special birthday for Jack Heuer Time+Tide
Cartier Nov 19, 2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: SIHH 2021 is already cancelled, Cartier is feeling very generous and it’s a special birthday for Jack Heuer

Well, with the sense of a big black limousine passing through the neighbourhood in the middle of the night, there goes 2021 watch fairs. It’s November 2020, and the two biggest fairs of the coming year are already cancelled. So, as watch lovers, we face yet another year of digital attempts to re-create the magic, the … Continued

HANDS-ON: Hublot has nailed the 2020 mood with the most cheerful shade of sky blue for this Big Bang Time+Tide
Hublot has nailed Nov 12, 2020

HANDS-ON: Hublot has nailed the 2020 mood with the most cheerful shade of sky blue for this Big Bang

Let’s face it – blue is a very saturated colour throughout the novelties of 2020. This is not necessarily due to a lack of creativity. If anything, it is fan service: brands truly working to provide what the people want. Hublot, on the other hand, is not one to just follow a trend – they … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Hublot has nailed the 2020 mood with the most cheerful shade of sky blue for this Big Bang appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Last Cabinotier of Saint Gervais SJX Watches
Nov 9, 2020

The Last Cabinotier of Saint Gervais

Few tourists find themselves in Geneva’s historic Saint Gervais district, the city’s revolutionary hotbed where Jean-Jacques Rousseau spent his boyhood in the early 18th century, and from where James Fazy overthrew Geneva’s ruling oligarchy in the revolt of 1846. Throughout those times, Saint Gervais was above all the city’s horological powerhouse, a warren of sweatshops known as the Fabrique Genevoise, turning out the myriad parts and decorating the watches that made Geneva synonymous with luxury craftsmanship. The workshops were presided over by those emblematic figures of Geneva watchmaking, the radical, opinionated yet urbane cabinotiers. “A Parisian watchmaker,” remarked Rousseau, “can only talk about watches. But you can take a Geneva watchmaker anywhere.”[1] With the revival of luxury watchmaking in the late 20th century, the Fabrique was re-born in the less picturesque ZIPLO (Zone Industriel de Plan-les-Ouates) on the outskirts of town, and the sweatshops are now known as manufactures. Yet there’s still one watchmaker left in the remnants of old Saint Gervais, upholding the cabinotier tradition in this historic centre of Geneva watchmaking. Bruno Pesenti, the last watchmaker in Geneva’s historical watchmaking district, wears the smock and eyeshade of the cabinotiers who made watches here 200 years ago Forgotten brands Bruno Pesenti is one of the few watchmakers who can still fix anything pre-quartz. He welcomes you with modest pride and old-fash...

Breaking News: Philippe Dufour Simplicity 20th Anniversary Sells for US$1.51m SJX Watches
Nov 8, 2020

Breaking News: Philippe Dufour Simplicity 20th Anniversary Sells for US$1.51m

The very first Philippe Dufour Simplicity 20th Anniversary to leave Mr Dufour’s workshop was the first major example of independent watchmaking at Phillips’ Retrospective: 2000-2020 auction. It set a very high bar, hammering for 1.1 million Swiss francs, or 1.36 million francs including fees, which is equivalent to US$1.51 million. Almost forty times the retail price of the Simplicity when it was launched in 2000, the price is a new record for the model. The result handily crosses an earlier record set just a month ago at Sotheby’s in Hong Kong, where an 34 mm example from the original production run sold for US$662,000. The Simplicity 20th Anniversary features a hinged hunter back, a feature not found in the original series Impressive as it is, the record price was reached swiftly. Although the estimate was 200,000-400,000 francs, a bidder on the phone represented by Tiffany To of Phillips opened with a 450,000 franc bid. The phone bidder was joined by a handful of fellow phone as well as in-room bidders – Mr Bacs commented during the proceedings there were seven phone lines active – along with a solo bid online from Singapore. The price rose quickly in 50,000 and 100,000 franc steps, with Ms To’s phone bidder clinching the prize. The seven-figure price for the Simplicity elevates Mr Dufour to the rarefied territory of living independent watchmakers whose wristwatches have sold for above US$1m at auction. There are just two watchmakers who can make that clai...

8 watches that might just be sub-$10k bargains at Phillips Geneva Watch Auction XII Time+Tide
Nov 5, 2020

8 watches that might just be sub-$10k bargains at Phillips Geneva Watch Auction XII

Let’s face it, watch auctions can be a little bit intimidating. The big players in the watch game are centuries-old organisations, with Christie’s and Sotheby’s both pre-dating the First Fleet sailing into Botany Bay, and Phillips only eight years younger, being founded in 1796. All this history, the seven-figure headline lots and the sometimes confusing … ContinuedThe post 8 watches that might just be sub-$10k bargains at Phillips Geneva Watch Auction XII appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Trump versus Biden: Forget politics, whose watch collection do you prefer? Time+Tide
Oct 31, 2020

Trump versus Biden: Forget politics, whose watch collection do you prefer?

We will have to wait to see who wins the election next week in the race for the presidency of the United States. In the meantime, we thought it would be a good time to check in and see what watches President Trump and former Vice President Biden have been wearing as of late. Politics … ContinuedThe post Trump versus Biden: Forget politics, whose watch collection do you prefer? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: S.U.F. Sarpaneva x Moomin SJX Watches
Sarpaneva Oct 24, 2020

Up Close: S.U.F. Sarpaneva x Moomin

Finnish independent watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva is famous for his frowning moon “face”, an instantly recognisable emblem of contemporary watchmaking. But he also makes more affordable watches under the S.U.F. Helsinki label, which recently launched the S.U.F. Sarpaneva x Moomin, a cartoon watch that is seriously good. Created to celebrate the 75th anniversary of Moomin, a series of books and comics by Finnish author Tove Jansson, the Moomin watch is based on the S.U.F. 180, a fuss-free three-hander that’s inspired by vintage military-issue watches, but dressed up with a three-layer dial hand painted in multiple shades of Super-Luminova. Even in moderately low light, the dial glows in technicolor glory – that alone is worth the modest price of admission. Initial thoughts The S.U.F. Sarpaneva x Moomin is different and compelling, but easy to wear and put together notably well. Specifically, the dial and case are executed to a high level. The dial is three layers, and then hand finished and hand painted, while the case is a slim but robust construction that is finished skilfully. And the Moomin watch retailed for €5,000, or about US$5,900 – making it excellent value for money. The quality and detail of the dial – think of it as affordable metiers d’art – is especially outstanding for the price. Admittedly, Moomin has no particular resonance for me – and won’t for anyone who isn’t a fan of the comic – but the dial in itself is appealing. It’s qu...

Hublot Introduces the Meca-10 Clock SJX Watches
Hublot Introduces Oct 23, 2020

Hublot Introduces the Meca-10 Clock

Time-only but visually and mechanically interesting, the Hublot Meca-10 wristwatch has a skeleton movement inspired by Meccano, the children’s construction toy. Now it’s been blown up – by a multiple of four – to create the Meca-10 Clock. Created in collaboration with Swiss clockmaker L’Epée, best known for the clocks it has made for MB&F; and Chanel, the Meca-10 Clock retains all of the key features of its wristwatch counterpart, namely the skeletonised construction and lengthy, 10-day running time. The clock and the watch that inspired it Initial thoughts Compared to the prolific, sci-fi clocks of MB&F;, the Meca-10 is more traditional. But it sets itself apart technically with its purpose-built, 10-day movement. In contrast, clocks by other brands express themselves in terms of case architecture, and mostly rely on the same the L’Epée 8-day movement. The Meca-10 has a straightforward, square case that resembles the typical Hublot Big Bang. The highlight is the movement, which originated in Hublot’s own movement development department led by Matthias Buttet, the brand’s resident technical guru, and subsequently built by L’Epee. The result is a clock that is legible and mechanically interesting, just like the Meca-10 wristwatch, giving the clock a similar sort of appeal. But the Meca-10 clock is surprisingly expensive, starting at US$47,400 for the steel version. That can be justified to a degree by the unique movement, but it’s still twice the pric...

Bovet Récital 27: The Trinity Of Time Quill & Pad
Bovet Oct 10, 2020

Bovet Récital 27: The Trinity Of Time

The Bovet Récital 27 is built around a triple time zone display that one might imagine could become busy, but Bovet is rather skilled at combining complications in a way that doesn’t seem forced in any respect. But for Joshua Munchow, the most dramatic element on this dial is the double moon phase display, which shows the current moon phase in both the southern and northern hemispheres. And there is one more element he loves here, can you guess which?