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Monochrome
As we’ve seen recently with the attractive Diver GMT Arctic Ocean SPB439, there’s more to Seiko’s Prospex collection than just classic models. Black Series, PADI editions or Save the Ocean are some of the recurring sub-collections that have long been offered by the Japanese manufacturer. Today, Seiko adds a new model to its range of blackened […]
Monochrome
Eska isn’t a brand that many are familiar with, but the Swiss watchmaker started production over a century ago. It shut its doors in the late 1980s, like many following the quartz crisis, but has now reemerged with the Amphibian 250, a faithful recreation of the old brand’s rarest diver, the Amphibian 600. Very few […]
Monochrome
We all know the mechanical watch industry is no longer solely for the Swiss, even though Switzerland is still very much the epicentre of all things watch-related. Nevertheless, we’ve seen brands from all corners of the world making watches that can measure up to mainstream ones on multiple occasions. New to us, and no doubt […]
Monochrome
While the Superman, a skindiver piece, is by far the most emblematic model of French watchmaking brand Yema, three other names might ring a bell to some enthusiasts. All designed as professional instruments in the late 1960s or early 1970s, the Flygraf (pilot’s watch), Rallygraf (driver’s watch) and Yachtingraf (regatta watch) are now deeply rooted […]
Monochrome
Karl Moritz Grossmann, a prominent figure from the 19th century, was the founder and director of the German School of Watchmaking. In our contemporary era, in 2007, Christine Hutter, a skilled watchmaker with experience at Maurice Lacroix, Glashütte Original and A. Lange & Söhne, acquired the right to use the name “Moritz Grossmann“. In 2008, […]
Monochrome
For more than 30 years, Nomos has been part of the monumental effort to resurrect the German watchmaking tradition that once thrived in the Glashütte region in the easternmost part of the country. The region is home to a dozen or so brands, from relatively affordable names like Union Glashütte and Nomos to ultra-high-end like A. […]
Time+Tide
Could this complex material become a watchmaking grail?The post What is purple gold? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
How do affordable models from three of the biggest brands in high-end watchmaking stack up?
Worn & Wound
Editor’s Note: In this week’s installment of our ongoing “3 for 5k” series, reader Christopher Lee presents a collection that incorporates two watches he personally owns, and one that might be entering his collection soon. These three watches cover a lot of horological ground, from a classic Swiss diver, to the most tech-forward watch in Seiko’s catalog. You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. Oris Aquis – $2,400 When setting out to name three watches for $5k, I knew I wanted to have at least one dive watch. It was the style of watch that first got me hooked on the hobby and in my opinion, every collection should have one. To me, the Oris Aquis has qualities that make it extremely desirable. Personally, I own the Caliber 400 model, but for the purposes of this list I will refer to the Sellita powered version. First off, the Aquis has great build quality and finish. The watch feels substantial in the hand and features 300m of water resistance. Furthermore, the transitions from polished surfaces to brushed are razor sharp. The head of the watch feels extremely solid with crown guards that are screwed onto it, which for me is a purposeful nod towards the longevity of the case. The bezel and its ceramic insert feel great to use with its snappy ratcheting feedback. Every set of links on the integrated bracelet features polished outer links and full articulation, contributing to a comfortab...
Monochrome
Traditional watchmaking is at the heart of British watchmaking institute Garrick. Ever since the brand’s foundation in 2015, the goal has been to rekindle the British style of mechanical watchmaking. Watchmaking in Great Britain has huge historical significance thanks to visionary people like Thomas Mudge, John Harrison, and many others. For Garrick, things have long […]
Teddy Baldassarre
We are back with another list of recommendations for the best watches you can get for a given amount of money. This time around, we will be looking at the best watches available for under $5,000, a crowded price point where the luxury watchmaking conversation really takes off. As we creep up on $5,000, we’ll be taking a look at luxury watch brands like Oris, Omega, Tudor, and a host of others, some of which may surprise you by their inclusion in this category. $5,000 is, objectively a lot of money, and we know you're looking for a lot of watch for your hard-earned coin. To aid you in your research, we have tried to include some popular, enthusiast-favorite watches as well as a few watches from brands you may be less familiar with. Before diving in, here are some ground rules: This list will be, by and large, strictly composed of watches with a retail price at or below $5,000. We'll also throw a few watches in at the end which retail for just a bit above $5,000 but can be found on the secondary market in our target price range. We’ve decided to further narrow our scope to watches with a starting price between $2,000 and $5,000. Again, we can’t possibly put every single watch in this price bracket on this list, but please feel free to refer to other guides on our sites, such as The Best Watches Under $1000, 30 Best Minimalist Watches and 25 Best Tool Watches, as they may have a watch or watches more to your taste, which is really what these lists are all about: to ...
Monochrome
A company that offers a wide variety of timepieces that cater to all tastes, Union Glashütte goes from bold to classic. Established initially as Uhrenfabrik Union in Glashütte in 1893 by Johannes Dürrstein, a prominent figure in the German watch industry, the brand swiftly rose to prominence in Glashütte watchmaking – until World War II […]
Teddy Baldassarre
While many of watchmaking’s most prestigious brands claim to build watches designed for the military (and especially for elite special forces), the reality is that the majority of soldiers, sailors, airmen, marines, and yes, coasties don’t make the kind of cash necessary to play in the luxury watch space. Still, the military remains a calling in which early is on time and on time is late, so watches are essential gear and, in many cases, a required uniform item. So, what watches do military members wear? To be frank, our evidence would seem to indicate that the overwhelming majority of military members wear inexpensive quartz digital watches like the ubiquitous Casio G-Shock and Timex Ironman. While both are fine watches in their utilitarian category, some service members want something a bit more elevated, combining the classic aesthetic and function of an analog watch with some military flavor and toughness. Military watches have, of course, transcended the military itself, becoming a popular style for watch collectors thanks to their utility and purpose-oriented designs. Luckily, there are a ton of incredible military watch options out there suitable both for service members and civilians alike. Wanting a refined aesthetic doesn’t mean you can’t also have "mil-spec" levels of durability, legibility, and reliability. You just have to know where to look. Here we showcase 40 watches that combine a tacti-cool aesthetic with functionality for survivin...
SJX Watches
Followers of high-end independent watchmaking are likely familiar with Akrivia and its founder, Rexhep Rexhepi. Akrivia’s work, especially its finishing, has earned widespread acclaim and record auction results. Paradoxically the brand got off to slow start at its founding in 2012. Akrivia only rocketed to prominence with the launch of the Chronomètre Contemporain in 2018 and has been on the ascent ever since. Now just getting into its second decade, Akrivia has achieved a level of success that often proves elusive to upstart independent watchmakers, many of which have come and gone in the past few years. This success is due to numerous factors, but key among them is the brand’s demonstrated ability to evolve and improve. I recently had the opportunity to visit the brand’s workshops in Geneva’s Old Town to see how far Akrivia has come and get a hint of what’s in store for the future. Akrivia today Today, the brand employs 20 staff, up from just 10 in 2021. Considering its annual production of around 40 watches per year, this puts Akrivia in good company among the most artisanal brands in the industry. It would be tempting to look at this headcount growth and predict that production will soon increase, but that’s not the case. While the team of watchmakers has grown slightly – it now stands at eight – most of the added roles are go bring more manufacturing capabilities in-house and accelerate product development, along with a few administrative positions. M...
Hodinkee
The first installment in a four-part film detailing the rise and fall (and rise again?) of American watchmaking.
Monochrome
If we talk about trends in watchmaking, vintage has been one of the main sources of inspiration for brands since around 2010. And yet, after all these years, re-editions of glorious past models and vintage-inspired watches are still a hot topic in 2023. Retro-styled watches, vintage reissues and old-school design language are still staples in […]
Time+Tide
2023 saw Cartier continue to showcase their mastery of shapes and mastery of watchmaking inside and out.The post Five of the best watches from Cartier in 2023 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
The minute repeater is often seen as one of watchmaking’s most sophisticated complications. The histories of the minute repeater and Breguet have been entwined for nearly 250 years. While Abraham-Louis Breguet, the brand’s founder, did not invent the minute repeater, he was deeply involved in improving it. As early as 1783, he created the firstRead More
Deployant
Arnold & Son Luna Magna Red Gold “Year of the Dragon” is a limited edition watch that celebrates the 2024 “Year of the Wooden Dragon”. The watch is crafted with fine watchmaking, miniature sculpture, and gemstone craftsmanship, showcasing a dragon and a moon made from red gold (5N). The watch is available in two variations featuring pietersite or onyx.
Time+Tide
As one of the front-runners in sustainable watchmaking, Ulysse Nardin show off their best use of recycled materials.The post The Ulysse Nardin Diver Net Azure and Diver X Skeleton Azure plunge into sustainable luxury appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The world's top purveyor of luxury goods has watchmaking in the (Birkin) bag.
Teddy Baldassarre
The Oris Divers Sixty-Five collection has found a receptive and substantial audience since its introduction in 2015, firmly establishing itself as one the Swiss brand's most versatile and creatively innovative product families. Whether it's the retro appeal of its original 1960s design, the exclusivity of the Carl Brashear editions, or the playful pastels of the Cotton Candy models, the Oris Diver Sixty-Five has something for just about any type of watch enthusiast. Here is a comprehensive rundown of the line, from its mid-sixties inspiration to today. 1965: The Original Waterpoof Oris started making watches in 1904 in the Swiss town of Hölstein, where it is still based today. The brand made its first purpose-built dive watch in 1965, naming it the Oris Waterproof and targeting the era’s growing masses of recreational diving enthusiasts - many of whom were likely seeking a more affordable alternative to prohibitively priced genre pioneers like the Rolex Submariner and Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. The Waterproof was a product of its time, with a case made of chromium-plated brass, a crystal made of Plexiglas, and a strap made of sturdy but decidedly non-luxurious black rubber. The case, with a dive-scale bezel that rotated in both directions, measured a rather modest 36mm and housed a manually wound mechanical movement, the 17-jewel Oris Caliber 654; at the time, Oris made most of its own movements in-house. This historical divers’ model (above, right), while never a...
SJX Watches
I am pleased to end the year with new additions to the team – Brandon Moore and David Ichim. Both occasional contributors before, Brandon and David will now become regular, exclusive contributors. Brandon’s writings explore the diversity of watchmaking and watch collecting. Amongst his recent stories are a visit to F.P. Journe’s manufacture, as well as its dial- and case-making facility. Brandon also recounted his experience learning traditional engine turning at a guilloche workshop by Nico Cox. And scheduled for January 2024: his story covering a visit to Akrivia’s workshops in Geneva. David’s contributions are more technically oriented, with the most recent being a detailed analysis of the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Optimum that explains why it might be the ultimate F.P. Journe chronomètre. A freshly-eroded remontoir spring at the F.P. Journe manufacture At the same time, Russell Sheldrake will be departing in early February 2024 – we wish him well. Finally, Oliver R. Müller of LuxeConsult is no longer a contributor to SJX Watches. He contributed a handful of articles from 2020 to 2023; these articles are no longer available on the site. Mr Müller is no longer associated with us in any form. Any queries can be directed to us via the contact form.
Monochrome
About a year ago, Louis Vuitton, through its manufacture of watches La Fabrique du Temps, announced the establishment of the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives, a biennial prize that celebrates the creative talent, savoir-faire and audacity of the independent watchmaking industry, to support and encourage artisans and entrepreneurs and accompany future generations. Since […]
Quill & Pad
Japanese watch giant Seiko once again draws upon its many years of experience in the discipline of diver’s watches to reboot a timepiece from 1968 for a new generation. The two Seiko Prospex 1968 Diver’s Modern Re-Interpretation Save the Ocean limited edition timepieces are real dive watches made for professional divers and pioneering adventurers, manufactured to weather the most extreme situations under water.
SJX Watches
Positioned as a creative endeavour rather than a traditional brand, Kollokium debuts with a departure from conventional watchmaking norms, the Projekt 01. Born from the aesthetic sensibilities of its founders, Manuel Emch, Barth Nussbaumer, and Amr Sindi, Kollokium is about unconventional design and raw, unpolished aesthetics. Kollokium is a project-based offering, with each “projekt” iterated into variants but produced in limited numbers. Projekt 01 begins as a “Friends & Family” edition only for insiders, but a publicly available version will soon be launched in early 2024. Initial thoughts The Projekt 01 blends avant-garde design with innovative manufacturing processes, and an affordable price tag. And it also doesn’t take itself too seriously, as evidenced by the case back – something that collectors tired of self-important brands will appreciate. The cast steel case delivers an industrial and robust aesthetic, setting it apart from watches in this price segment. On top is a highly-domed “box” sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating that enhances the visual experience. But most intriguing is the three-dimensional pixellated dial made up of with 468 hand-applied cylindrical markers tipped with Super-LumiNova, a surprising degree of craftsmanship given its price. Kollokium’s philosophy is also reflected in the decision to identify the La Joux-Perret G101 movement. Like many watch start-ups, Kollokium is committed to transparency, while being mor...
Monochrome
The Andersen Genève x Benjamin Chee HH Celestial Voyager Supersonic is the latest in a series of classic world timers created by one of the most respected Swiss independent watchmakers and avid Singaporean collectors, Benjamin Chee. These sophisticated, elegant wristwatches transport us to a different era, echoing the artistry of bygone elegance. A prime example, […]
Worn & Wound
Early yesterday morning, news broke in the watch world that was both surprising, and felt inevitable. Universal Genève, the highly regarded and historic Swiss brand that has been effectively dormant for years, will be revived and relaunched by the same ownership team currently steering the ship at Breitling. While the news of Universal finally getting a high profile relaunch isn’t exactly shocking (reviving heritage brands shuttered during the Quartz Crisis has been a favorite pastime in the watch industry over the last decade), we weren’t expecting the Breitling connection. The news (and reaction to it) speaks both to the great affection the community feels for the Universal Genève brand, and to the strength and financial turnaround of Breitling under Georges Kern’s tenure. Universal Genève has a long and rich history, and has grown significantly in esteem in recent years. They were part of an explosion of interest in vintage watches that began more than ten years ago, but unlike other brands that benefited from increased attention on historic vintage pieces (Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet among them), Universal Genève doesn’t exist as a modern watchmaker in a meaningful way. For that reason, there’s always been a mystique to the brand that can’t really be replicated. We can, and do, compare vintage versions of Submariners, Daytonas, and Royal Oaks to their modern equivalents, and can thus relate to these watches through a modern context or l...
Hodinkee
Breitling and Partners Group acquire the historic watchmaking brand, say it will relaunch "fully aware of the task at hand and the profound heritage we are set to uphold."
SJX Watches
Breitling has just announced the acquisition of Universal Genève, a once-storied brand famous for its Polerouter and Compax chronographs but that was dormant for years. Breitling will pay CHF60 million for the brand, but in tranches with CHF20 million upfront and the balance over the next five years. The acquisition marks the first step in chief executive Georges Kern’s ambitions of building a watchmaking group, which will presumably go public. According to Mr Kern, Universal will be revived by a new team and run independently of Breitling, though it is almost a certainty Breitling will bestow upon its sister company some of its in-house movement know-how. A sleeping beauty Since 1989, Universal Genève has been owned Stelux, a Hong Kong watchmaking group focused on the affordable end of the market. The company’s primary business is the lucrative distribution of Seiko in Hong Kong and Southeast Asia, while its City Chain stores specialised in low-priced watches. Stelux owns a handful of other Swiss brands, including Solvil et Titus and Catena, none of which are premium brands as Universal might possibly be. Although Universal attempted several halfhearted comebacks, particularly in the 1990s, the brand has gone nowhere for some time, making it a relatively easy turnaround given the starting point. Commenting in the takeover announcement, Breitling chief executive Georges Kern says, “Rebuilding a brand with such a rich narrative is not a quick endeavor-it is a meti...
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