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Results for Above the Date Window

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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

Hands-On With Funky New Tusenö Supervintage Collection Fratello
Jul 15, 2025

Hands-On With Funky New Tusenö Supervintage Collection

If we mention the name Tusenö, most of you will immediately think of the popular Shellback diver. The Swedish brand has released a small selection of models in the past few years, but the Shellback has made waves as one of the best affordable dive watches on the market. Now, the young Gothenburg-based brand surprises […] Visit Hands-On With Funky New Tusenö Supervintage Collection to read the full article.

Seiko Still Makes a Cartier Tank Lookalike, and they Just Introduced Three New References Worn & Wound
Cartier Tank Lookalike Jul 15, 2025

Seiko Still Makes a Cartier Tank Lookalike, and they Just Introduced Three New References

Back in May, I wrote about a Seiko release that got me thinking about the brand’s current perception among watch enthusiasts. Those Seiko 5 sports watches were a clear throwback, I think, to a time period when Seiko was the brand of distinction and choice for fans of affordable watches. Those days are gone. We still love Seiko, of course, but there’s just a lot more competition, and everyone’s game has been stepped up a bit. It’s worth remembering, too, that the Seiko of a decade ago wasn’t just the enthusiast’s choice for divers. Seiko has always made a huge variety of watches in all different styles, and another recent release from the brand is a good reminder of that, and a throwback release in its own way.  Back in the day, being involved in watch forums meant that you’d see endless questions about what watches to buy as an alternative to any number of rare, expensive, or otherwise unattainable luxury watches. That way of thinking about watch collecting has really shifted in recent years with the growth of the microbrand scene and the wide acceptance of new, original designs. But a nicely made “dupe” still has a place, and Seiko is about as good as anyone at delivering. The new SWR103, SWR104, and SWR106 are simple rectangular dress watches running on a quartz movement that retail for a little over $300. They also look a whole lot like the Cartier Tank, down to some very specific details.  Seiko has made a Tank dupe for as long as I’ve been intere...

Remembering a Significant A. Lange & Söhne Tourbillon Pour le Mérite SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 2499 Jul 14, 2025

Remembering a Significant A. Lange & Söhne Tourbillon Pour le Mérite

I don’t often read spiels from watch sellers, though there are exceptions like Langepedia, a specialist in the German brand that I have long been a fan of. Alp Sever, the gentleman behind Langepedia, recently published a story that caught my eye. It was an ode to a watch already sold, but an important one worth commemorating, the Tourbillon Pour le Mérite ref. 701.008, a unique piece in white gold with silver sub-dials. Mr Sever’s story got my attention because I remember the watch. It first emerged publicly just over a decade ago at Christie’s, where it had been consigned by presumably the original owner (who was presumably someone connected with the brand’s corporate parent in the 1990s). I admired the watch in person during a preview exhibition, but back then it was as far out of my budget as the Lange 31’s mainspring is long. The unique dial has a concise, crisp aesthetic that is almost monochromatic and accentuated by the lozenge-shaped markers also found on the pink gold variant. Intriguing, another unique Pour le Mérite exists with a similar all-black dial, but with a smaller, 36 mm case. This “panda” iteration is more appealing, however, as is its conventional, 38.5 mm case. The unique Tourbillon Pour le Mérite sold for CHF437,000 at Christie’s Geneva in May 2014 – extraordinary at the time. In the same auction, a third-series Patek Philippe ref. 2499 in yellow gold sold for less. The Tourbillon Pour le Mérite was enjoying a little bit of a bo...

Hands On: Piaget Andy Warhol SJX Watches
Piaget Andy Warhol Having first Jul 14, 2025

Hands On: Piaget Andy Warhol

Having first introduced its Beta 21-inspired wristwatch over a decade ago, Piaget rebooted the concept this year by renaming it the Piaget Andy Warhol thanks to a freshly inked agreement with the American artist’s foundation. The watch retains the same oversized style format defined by a many stepped bezel and clean dial, but now adds the option of customisation in both dial and case materials. Though pricey for a time only watch, the Andy Warhol is arguably Piaget’s best formal dress watch for men. It’s just as elegant as the brand’s round watches, but substantially more distinctive. And the Andy Warhol nickname makes it more memorable than it was before. Initial thoughts Piaget’s most significant recent watch in technical terms is unquestionable the Altiplano Ultimate Concept, but ironically it is somewhat too thin to be elegant. The wafer-slim case feels a little strange on the wrist. The Andy Warhol, on the other hand, is large, but elegant and especially glamorous in certain variations like the malachite dial. In fact, the case is oversized – the case is 45 mm wide – but very thin around 8 mm, giving it a sleek profile but large presence on the wrist. And up close the multiple steps on the bezel give the design surprising flair given its overall simplicity. The large cushion form easily passes for a 1970s watch, but this is not an exact remake. Instead it is loosely based on the Piaget Beta 21, a pioneering quartz wristwatch, a specimen of which was owne...

Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025: RJ’s Choices From Rolex, Omega, Grand Seiko, And G-Shock Fratello
Grand Seiko Jul 14, 2025

Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025: RJ’s Choices From Rolex, Omega, Grand Seiko, And G-Shock

Yes, I know this series is supposed to be about watches for summer, but is there such a thing as a typical summer watch? I think I’ll go against the grain and refer to my picks as “holiday watches” instead, as preparing for a vacation is when I carefully select the watch (or watches) I […] Visit Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025: RJ’s Choices From Rolex, Omega, Grand Seiko, And G-Shock to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tissot PRX Quartz Vs. Tissot PRC 100 Solar Quartz Fratello
Tissot PRX Quartz Vs Tissot Jul 13, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tissot PRX Quartz Vs. Tissot PRC 100 Solar Quartz

Last week, we organized a sophisticated confrontation between two platinum dress watches. This week, we decided to keep it a little more low-key. Recently, Tissot introduced its new PRC 100 Solar Quartz with the state-of-the-art Lightmaster technology integrated into the watch’s crystal. The demand for this new watch is already higher than the supply, so […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tissot PRX Quartz Vs. Tissot PRC 100 Solar Quartz to read the full article.

Taking A Look At Bravo Watchware’s Original Gradient Watch Box Fratello
Jul 12, 2025

Taking A Look At Bravo Watchware’s Original Gradient Watch Box

I have been on the hunt for a decent zip-up leather watch case for what feels like forever. It couldn’t be just any case, though. I wanted something that didn’t out itself as a budget-friendly compromise but also didn’t cost as much as a watch itself. It had to be practical, hold a decent number […] Visit Taking A Look At Bravo Watchware’s Original Gradient Watch Box to read the full article.

Mechanical vs. Automatic Watch Movements Explained Teddy Baldassarre
Jul 12, 2025

Mechanical vs. Automatic Watch Movements Explained

Among the many questions a novice watch enthusiast is faced with, “Mechanical vs. Automatic Movement?” is one of the most basic, yet one whose answer is a bit more complex than a simple A-or-B explanation. In fact, “mechanical or automatic” isn’t even really framing the choice correctly. In the article below, we attempt to clarify the subject and answer the most pressing questions about these tiny engines inside your watch. What is a Mechanical Movement? A mechanical movement, like the Nomos DUW caliber below, uses a coiled metal spring, called a mainspring, that releases energy as it uncoils through a series of gears to drive a weighted, oscillating wheel called a balance wheel. The balance wheel’s oscillations are linked to an escapement, which periodically releases the gear train to move the hands forward to record the passing of hours, minutes, and seconds. In short, a mechanical movement in a watch is any type of movement that uses no batteries or electronic components to function - which makes them different from more modern inventions, like quartz, Spring Drive, and solar movements. Technical developments over the centuries are what led to the two types of mechanical movements we’re discussing here. Originally, the movement’s mainspring needed to be wound periodically by hand - first by a key, then by a small knob called a crown that was attached via a stem to the movement. Later, a type of movement was developed that could be wound “automatica...

Are You Into Watches Or Watchmaking? Fratello
Girard-Perregaux Chairman Jul 12, 2025

Are You Into Watches Or Watchmaking?

On June 26th, the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH) celebrated its 20th anniversary in Geneva. The non-profit organization started the celebrations with a press conference at the lakeside Ritz-Carlton Hotel in Geneva. To honor the FHH’s founding members, Audemars Piguet CEO Ilaria Resta, Girard-Perregaux Chairman and CEO Patrick Pruniaux, and Cartier Chairman of Culture […] Visit Are You Into Watches Or Watchmaking? to read the full article.

Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025: Nacho’s Favorites From Citizen, Doxa, And Baltic Fratello
Citizen Doxa Jul 12, 2025

Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025: Nacho’s Favorites From Citizen, Doxa, And Baltic

The days are long, sleeves are short, and it’s a scorcher out there! So grab your favorite watch, apply a generous layer of sunscreen, and make the most of this sunniest of seasons. As is the tradition of Fratello, the members of the editorial team have been tasked with putting together a list of their […] Visit Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025: Nacho’s Favorites From Citizen, Doxa, And Baltic to read the full article.

Insight: Hairspring Materials and Evolution Part I SJX Watches
Casio n Jul 11, 2025

Insight: Hairspring Materials and Evolution Part I

The invention of the hairspring was among the greatest breakthroughs in horology, since its inception suddenly made mechanical timepieces portable, transforming clocks into watches. This not only marked the start of precision timekeeping, but also set mankind upon the long road to perfecting the accuracy of mechanical watches, arguably the most sophisticated pieces of kit on Earth at the time, when such precision was paramount for fields as varied as navigation, warfare, and astronomy. The hairspring turned 350 years old in 2025 and we’re marking the occasion with a series of stories on the topic, including the story of the spiral hairspring and also the importance and evolution of the overcoil. Now we turn to temperature compensation and metallurgy in a two-part story covering the evolution of the hairspring materials up until metal alloys. More exotic materials and inventions will follow in Part II. Elasticity and thermal expandability  One of the fundamental factors in hairspring function is ambient temperature, simply because metal alloys expand or contract uni-directionally with a change in temperature. As a result, watchmakers used calorimetry, the science of temperature effects, and material science, specifically metal alloys, to their gain in advancing hairspring technology. The equation below shows the relation between the initial length of a metal strip L0, measured at a given temperature and the final length LT after a certain change in temperature.  The equ...

Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical Review Teddy Baldassarre
Hamilton Jul 10, 2025

Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical Review

Is there a contemporary field watch as beloved and versatile as the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical? At this point the illustrious military history of the Khaki Field watch has been thoroughly explored (and if you’re not familiar with it, our resident historian Mark Bernardo has written an encyclopedic guide here). In short, Hamilton produced over a million watches for the United States military during World War II with its field watch in specific garnering praise for its universally consistent quality. This predecessor to the Khaki Field was a 34mm-wide field watch done in a chrome-plated metal case with radium lume dials and a manual-wind Caliber 987 movement. The modern Hamilton Watch Company was bought by the Swatch Group in 1974 with much of the production already having moved to Switzerland in 1969. The brand’s reassertion as a bonafide, authentic maker of military tool watches with historical provenance proliferated as an entire collection under the “Khaki” umbrella. While it was still producing watches for actual military units in the 1980s and ‘90s, Hamilton had done well by marketing to civilians once again in the wake of the Vietnam War. These early post-war civilian Hamilton Khaki watches were co-branded with retailers like Brookstone, Orvis, and L.L. Bean. This was also the time during which the “Khaki” logo began popping up on their dials. In 2018, Hamilton released the Khaki Field Mechanical which has gone on to be one of the most popular and b...

Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025: Daan’s Choices From Longines, Girard-Perregaux, And Ressence Fratello
Girard-Perregaux Jul 10, 2025

Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025: Daan’s Choices From Longines, Girard-Perregaux, And Ressence

The Sun is shining, temperatures are rising, and my kids are finishing their classes. At last, our summer vacation is just around the corner. It’s time to go through the watch box and pick my watches for a road trip through France and Spain. I’ll probably end up with the Rolex Explorer 114270 as my […] Visit Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025: Daan’s Choices From Longines, Girard-Perregaux, And Ressence to read the full article.

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Brew Metric Lite Jul 9, 2025

Lookbook: Brew Metric Lite is Finessed Form, Function, and Fun… All In One

In the world of watches, simplicity is frequently overlooked. But the new Brew Metric Lite is proof that petite doesn’t have to mean pared-down. With clean lines, charming proportions, and an unapologetically unisex design, it hits that rare balance of effortless style and everyday wearability. It’s not a trophy watch, it’s a companion-to coffee dates, late nights, and everything in between. The Metric Lite reimagines Brew’s signature style as something more universal-stripped back, but still unmistakably “Brew.” It’s an automatic three-hander with no gimmicks, just good design. The case is compact but confident, sliding under cuffs or over bare wrists with equal ease. And with a softened rectangular silhouette and muted dial tones, it’s simple yet stylish, fun yet formal, small yet substantial, refined yet relaxed. The post Lookbook: Brew Metric Lite is Finessed Form, Function, and Fun… All In One appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Citizen Tsuyosa Review Teddy Baldassarre
Citizen Jul 8, 2025

Citizen Tsuyosa Review

The Citizen Tsuyosa debuted back in 2022 as an integrated bracelet watch with a mechanical movement that was truly affordable with a price under $500. While the Tsuyosa collection was initially a little difficult to get in the US, Citizen started to ship these watches to the States a few months after the initial release. Since then it’s been a popular enough watch although I do think it has eluded the runaway cult classic success of something like the Tissot PRX for reasons that could have to do with marketing as well as a more subdued design that is more dress watch than a retro-inspired sports watch. There have been a couple of iterations of the Tsuyosa since it was released including a slightly more premium central seconds model and a smaller 37mm iteration released earlier in 2025. I will address both of these at the end of the article with a breakdown of what’s different, better, and worse from the standard 40mm reviewed here. The Citizen Tsuyosa finds some inspiration from the old NH299 series which was popular in the late ‘90s and early 2000s. The one design touch that separates the Tsuyosa from a lot of its competitors was also borrowed from the NH299: the small off-center crown seen at 4 o’clock. As a brief aside, I know some people cannot stand a crown at 4 o’clock due to symmetry but I would argue a large protruding crown at 3 o’clock creates far more asymmetry than one sitting so flushly at 4 o’clock. So, let’s get into the Citizen Tsuyosa and w...

Is It Time For A New Omega Speedmaster? What About A New Mini-Moonwatch? Fratello
Omega Speedmaster? What About Jul 8, 2025

Is It Time For A New Omega Speedmaster? What About A New Mini-Moonwatch?

Last year, Omega treated us (Speedmaster enthusiasts and collectors) to a generous selection of new models. The brand introduced the white-dial Speedmaster Professional, a new Speedmaster FOiS, two bicolor Moonwatch variations, and the Speedmaster Pilot. And let’s not forget about the first introduction in 2024, the Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Apollo 8 update. […] Visit Is It Time For A New Omega Speedmaster? What About A New Mini-Moonwatch? to read the full article.

Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025: Lex’s Choices From Laventure, Certina, And Swatch Fratello
Certina Jul 8, 2025

Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025: Lex’s Choices From Laventure, Certina, And Swatch

You can’t put a price on fun, but the best fun is often had during a vacation, and you can put a price on one of those. You can go camping in a two-person tent on the cheap or spend your downtime in a private villa with butler service on a tropical island for a […] Visit Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025: Lex’s Choices From Laventure, Certina, And Swatch to read the full article.