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The 1990 Lange Revival A. Lange & Söhne

A. Lange & Söhne revived 7 December 1990, exactly 145 years after the 1845 founding. Walter Lange + Günter Blümlein; 1994 launch of Lange 1, Saxonia, Arkade, Tourbillon Pour le Mérite.

Nivada Grenchen Review: Modern Remakes, Classic Designs Teddy Baldassarre
Nivada Grenchen Feb 13, 2026

Nivada Grenchen Review: Modern Remakes, Classic Designs

To many watch enthusiasts today, Nivada Grenchen is a boutique watchmaker that seemed to pop up out of nowhere several years ago and quickly found itself in the neo-vintage price-to-value conversation, alongside a handful of other start-up microbrands. But in actuality, the brand turns 100 years old this year, and its retro-stylish, mostly tool-oriented watches are not merely following a trend of evoking a fondly remembered era of watch design; they are actually modern remakes of watches that the brand released decades ago. [toc-section heading="Nivada Grenchen History & Highlights"] Watchmaker Jacob Schneider established the workshop that became the Nivada brand in 1926, in the Swiss town of Grenchen (its Swiss-German name; the French-Swiss call it “Granges”). Unlike many of its contemporaries, which were still focusing on high-luxury timepieces, Nivada Grenchen put its emphasis from the start on practical, reliable tool watches, quickly gaining acclaim for its developments in this area. Schneider’s company also was among the first to merge traditional Swiss watchmaking techniques with emerging industrial technologies. Starting in the 1930s, Nivada Grenchen became one of the first Swiss watchmaking companies to mass produce watches with automatic movements - an invention that had only been around since John Harwood patented the first one in 1923.  Nivada Grenchen (the “Grenchen” was officially added to the brand name after litigation by Movado, which was conc...

COSC Upgrades Standards to Certify More Than Timekeeping SJX Watches
Rolex Feb 13, 2026

COSC Upgrades Standards to Certify More Than Timekeeping

Interesting news just out of Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC), the venerable Swiss chronometer testing body, which has just announced a major revamp to its testing to honour the COSC’s standard’s 50th anniversary. Excellence Chronometer, COSC’s new and improved certification program, goes beyond the ISO 3159 norm that has defined its tests for decades. Instead of just testing movements, Excellence Chronometer will require completed, cased watches to run within -2/+4 seconds a day, as well as pass wear simulation and magnetism tests. Initial thoughts While COSC remains the primary chronometer testing body in Switzerland, thanks largely to Rolex, its protocols have been due for an update for some time now. With the rise of alternative and in-house precision testing programs, the standard chronometer certification can sometimes feel left behind. Rolex’s own Superlative Chronometer certification first requires a COSC certificate, but then makes sure the watches run at -2/+2 seconds per day after further in-house testing. The METAS Chronometer program also requires the standard COSC certificate, but guarantees a regulation of 0/+5 seconds per day and a great resistance to magnetic fields. Seeing that COSC slowly updates and imposes more stringent criteria is a good sign, but it may still not be good enough. With the rise of advanced internal certification programs, it looks like some brands submit their models to COSC testing just to make sure they can...

Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Datejust Alternatives In 2026 Fratello
Rolex Datejust Alternatives Feb 13, 2026

Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Datejust Alternatives In 2026

Another Friday, another list! This week, we’re starting a new series looking for alternatives to some of the world’s most popular watches. We’ll kick the series off with five alternatives to the iconic Rolex Datejust. The Crown’s classic, with roots going back to 1945, is one of the most popular daily wearers. While its legacy […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Datejust Alternatives In 2026 to read the full article.

Hands On: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph 38 mm SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph 38 Feb 13, 2026

Hands On: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph 38 mm

One of the longest tenured models in the Audemars Piguet (AP) catalogue, the Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 38 mm has been upgraded with a new manufacture calibre and sapphire case back for the first time, while only slightly tweaking the iconic design and price tag. Inside the new ref. 26450 is the cal. 6401 that incorporates with welcome quality-of-life improvements such as a longer power reserve, higher beat rate, and instantaneous date. The new movement accomplishes all of this without significant tradeoffs in size, but it arguably falls somewhat short in aesthetics. Minor shortcomings aside, the modestly sized Royal Oak Chronograph is a strong offering that enters the field at the top of its class. Initial thoughts In the same fashion as last year’s updated Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar, the new 38 mm Royal Oak Chronograph takes an evolutionary, rather than revolutionary, step forward, being essentially the same watch, only better. AP clearly knows better than to mess with a winning formula, but the brand also faced challenges, both in manufacturing and customer experience, that came with a nearly four-decade-old movement platform, sourced from Swatch Group no less. The changes are slight, even insignificant at first glance, but are the sort things that come to be appreciated with long-term ownership, especially within a smaller collection where increases in power reserve and performance are most noticeable. It even looks slightly better – the dial is less cram...

Fratello Talks: Different Approaches To Buying Your First “Serious” Watch Fratello
Feb 12, 2026

Fratello Talks: Different Approaches To Buying Your First “Serious” Watch

For many of us, there’s a clear line between the watches we liked and the first one we considered “serious.” Maybe it was the first mechanical piece we bought with our hard-earned money. Maybe it was the first watch that required actual research, comparison, and a deep breath before hitting “confirm order.” In today’s episode […] Visit Fratello Talks: Different Approaches To Buying Your First “Serious” Watch to read the full article.

Grand Seiko’s Smallest High-End Quartz Models Yet SJX Watches
Grand Seiko s Smallest High-End Quartz Feb 12, 2026

Grand Seiko’s Smallest High-End Quartz Models Yet

Grand Seiko has installed its high-end quartz calibre 9F in a 33 mm stainless steel case with fan-favourite textured dials, making one of the most advanced analogue quartz movements available in the smallest and slimmest format to date. The compact proportions of the Grand Seiko Heritage Collection Quartz 33mm “Snowflake” SBGX359 and “Skyflake” SBGX361 are possible thanks to a new member of the 9F family: the cal. 9F51. Though smaller, the new calibre retains all the technical bells and whistles of this class-leading quartz platform. Ref. SBGX359 (Snowflake). Initial thoughts While Grand Seiko’s quartz models are generally known as good value propositions, with the cal. 9F in particular representing a lot of movement for the money, that has generally been less true of the brand’s smaller models. These maintain the brand’s standout case and dial work but with relatively pedestrian cal. 4J movements. Though above average in terms of quality and technology, the cal. 4J lacks the torque necessary to accommodate the exceptionally large and refined hands found on most Grand Seikos. Ref. SBGX361 (Skyflake). Given the brand’s recent emphasis on Spring Drive technology, seemingly at the expense of battery-powered quartz movements, that seemed unlikely to change. In this context, this duo is a pleasant surprise, with more likely to follow, and offers a no-compromise Grand Seiko experience in a smaller size without the high price tags of the ladies automatic line. A ...

Hands On: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 38 mm SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 38 mm Feb 12, 2026

Hands On: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 38 mm

Audemars Piguet’s Code 11.59 has spent much of its life living in the shadow of the Royal Oak, but the latest 38 mm iteration suggests the collection might be finding its footing. The smaller Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding 38 mm refines the line’s distinctive case architecture with more convincing proportions, slimmer leather straps, and richly textured embossed dials. Neither overtly sporty nor conventionally dressy, the 18k rose gold Code 11.59 positions itself as a modern dress watch with real character that is quite convincing on the wrist. Initial thoughts It’s no secret that the Code 11.59 lives in the shadow of AP’s flagship product, the Royal Oak. In the seven years since its debut, the Code has yet to have its breakout moment. Many may remember the troubled launch of the collection, which met with an unnecessarily negative response from the market. But there’s a thin line between love and hate, and AP has been steadily improving the proportions, textures, materials, and complications over the past few years, and the tipping point could be imminent. The Code claims the middle ground in the false dichotomy between dressy and sporty, which makes it difficult for casual enthusiasts and collectors to fully understand. The 38 mm size, now with a new strap design, helps position the Code more concretely in the the dress watch camp, where its 9.6 mm thickness and 30 m water resistance rating feel more appropriate. Despite the criticism that’s been l...

Seiko Launches Three Speedtimers With New Dial Colors Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Feb 11, 2026

Seiko Launches Three Speedtimers With New Dial Colors

I still vividly remember the first time I saw the Seiko Speedtimer SSC813. It felt like one of the most deliberate and thoughtful nods to the brand’s 1960s and 1970s sports timekeeping heritage. Nicknamed the “Seitona” (no prizes for guessing why), it wore its classic panda dial with absolute confidence, easily earning itself a spot among some of Seiko’s most attractive sports watches ever made. Even better, it delivered those heritage-inspired racing aesthetics without the premium price tag associated with a Daytona. Now Seiko introduces a new triumvirate to the Speedtimer lineup: the SSC961, SSC963, and SSC965. This trio of Prospex watches draws from the angular sports cars of the 1980s and 1990s, showcasing distinctive shades of white-silver, sandy salmon, and mint green. But can these experimental colors of the new Seiko Speedtimer "Youngtimers" as they've come to be known capture the same motorsport DNA that made the beloved panda chronograph such a standout? [toc-section heading="Three New Dials"] The dial is unequivocally the soul of the new Seiko Prospex Speedtimer watch. In all three references, it sets the stage for a tri-register layout in the usual 3-6-9 arrangement. Here, the “Youngtimer” models embrace a nuanced and highly experimental palette. Each model features a 24-hour counter at 3 o’clock, balanced by a running seconds sub-dial at 9 o’clock. Nestled between the two is the 60-minute chronograph register at 6 o’clock, combined with a pow...

Back To Basics: How To Evaluate A Vintage Watch And Avoid Buying A Dud Fratello
Feb 11, 2026

Back To Basics: How To Evaluate A Vintage Watch And Avoid Buying A Dud

Welcome back to another installment of Back to Basics, our series aimed at newcomers to the watch hobby. This time, I will share some tips on how to evaluate a vintage watch and avoid buying a dud. This article is aimed particularly at those looking to buy their first vintage watch. As always with Back […] Visit Back To Basics: How To Evaluate A Vintage Watch And Avoid Buying A Dud to read the full article.

An Openworked Wonder by Molnar Fabry SJX Watches
Feb 11, 2026

An Openworked Wonder by Molnar Fabry

The Classic Tech Art is the latest, bespoke time-only piece from independent watchmaking duo Molnar Fabry, and a fine example of the pair’s modus operandi. Starting off from a Vaucher cal. 5401 ébauche, the watchmakers applied extensive finishing to both seen and unseen surfaces within the movement. While this exact configuration is unique, similar designs can be commissioned from the Slovakia-based creators. Initial thoughts Molnar Fabry’s calling card is open-worked movements and the Class Tech Art doesn’t disappoint in that respect. While the case back side of the movement is richly engraved but structurally unaltered, the tastefully open-worked dial reveals the usually hidden assemblies that make the Vaucher calibre tick. The duo behind Molnar Fabry operates outside the influence of many Swiss watchmaking traditions. As a result, the brand’s house style of finishing is somewhat unorthodox. Mixes of metals are on show, along with a rich blend of textures and shapes.  The style might not be to everyone’s tastes, but Molnar Fabry’s work feels refreshingly original in today’s market. The two watchmakers shift the focus from proprietary movements and high-tech specs to true hand finishing.  That said, the Classic Tech Art exemplifies a more streamlined vision of the brand’s design language, opting away from the excessively ornate cases the brand has produced in the past. This may point towards them going more mainstream - at least to the extent that a b...

Hands On: Louis Vuitton Escale Worldtime SJX Watches
Patek Philippe World Time ref 5330G Feb 10, 2026

Hands On: Louis Vuitton Escale Worldtime

One of Louis Vuitton’s most distinctive complications, the Escale Worldtime was recently revised and upgraded, giving it improved legibility and an in-house movement. The nips and tucks have given the watch a sleeker, more refined aesthetic, while making the technicolour dial more readable. It’s still far from a “tool” watch, but the second-generation Escale Worldtime has all of the charm of the original that’s now grounded in solid, credible watchmaking. Initial thoughts I’m biased because I am a fan of the original Worldtime, right from when it was launched in 2014. The original was decidedly impractical, way too expensive, but an imaginatively different take on the classic Louis Cottier world time. The new model has all of the appeal of the original, but with a superior execution in substance and form. The new version has smoothed out all of the rough edges of the original, quite literally in some respects. The case is now finer, with more refined lines and a gently domed crystal, for instance. Functionality has improved substantially with a hand for the minutes and a jumping hours display. And the movement is now a latest-generation calibre, part of a family of industrial-haute horlogerie movements developed by LFT that is an achievement on its own. The LFT VO12.01 movement features a 22k pink gold rotor with a guilloche rim The Escale Worldtime costs over US$90,000, or about 10% more than the Patek Philippe World Time ref. 5330G in white gold. The Escale, ...

Five Watches I’m Looking Forward to Seeing at British Watchmakers’ Day 2026 Worn & Wound
Feb 10, 2026

Five Watches I’m Looking Forward to Seeing at British Watchmakers’ Day 2026

For the third year in a row, the Worn & Wound team will be heading to London in March for British Watchmakers’ Day. This event, in a very short period of time, has become one of the premier events on the watch enthusiast community’s calendar. A total of 48 UK based brands will be exhibiting at this year’s event, and just like last year we expect there will be collector gatherings and meetups both planned and more informal happening throughout the weekend across London. This, of course, is just a thing that happens when watch collectors converge as they will on March 7. As has been the case over the last two years, a big part of the story of British Watchmakers’ Day is likely to be the limited edition releases presented by brands and made available for sale on the day of the event. This year, 26 brands are expected to launch limited editions that you can purchase and take home with you as a memento of the big day. For the first time, the event organizers have stipulated that any limited edition launched on the day of the show be made in an edition of not more than 50, a move to protect the exclusivity of these releases to show attendees and to ensure that all of the LEs collectively amount to something genuinely limited in scope. We will of course have coverage on the ground in London when the show gets underway, including live photos and social media coverage of as many limited editions as we can get on our wrists. But for now, here are five British Watchmakers’ ...

Best Bronze Watches for 2026 Teddy Baldassarre
Feb 10, 2026

Best Bronze Watches for 2026

If there is one element of watch ownership that speaks to the human psyche more than almost any other, it's the notion that what you wear is unique to you. And it's true, there simply isn't another watch out there with your dings in the case or your aged strap. No material creates such allure through the aging process as bronze. And watch designers have known this for some time. With wear, your bronze watch case will evolve far quicker and more obviously than any steel case (swimming in salt water really speeds things up!). Bronze is a copper alloy generally containing around 12% tin. Its discovery dates back several millennium BC. Before giving way to cheaper iron and stronger steel, the Bronze Age lasted almost three millennia. Bronze possesses a number of advantageous properties. And the versatility of its application has continued its use right up to modern day. One of those properties is its resistance to salt water corrosion. Typically, when exposed, bronze only oxidizes at the surface, forming a protective layer over the underlying metal. In the past, this made bronze the material of choice for boat and ship fittings. (Prior to the wide employment of stainless steel.) It also featured in early diving equipment. More recently, it has spurred a growing trend of tool watches. Not all bronze watches are created equal though. That’s why we’ve put together this hand-picked selection of some of, what we feel are, the best bronze watches for 2026 - enjoy! [toc-section h...

Interview – Talking to Nirupesh B. Joshi, Co-Founder of Bangalore Watch Company, One of India’s Fastest-Growing Watch Brands Monochrome
Feb 10, 2026

Interview – Talking to Nirupesh B. Joshi, Co-Founder of Bangalore Watch Company, One of India’s Fastest-Growing Watch Brands

We’ve said it multiple times, but watchmaking isn’t limited to Switzerland or even Europe. Watchmaking is global, whether regarding the watch collecting community or the watchmaking industry. One of the fastest-growing markets, as we’ve discovered when talking to the country’s main watch retail company, is India, a country with somewhat unknown yet impressive manufacturing capacities and a collecting culture […]

Hands On: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Feb 10, 2026

Hands On: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked

Audemars Piguet (AP) has updated the coveted Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked, which makes its debut on the next-generation perpetual calendar platform that debuted last year. The new calibre allows for individual adjustment of each calendar indication using just the crown – no stylus (or toothpick) necessary. The first outing for the skeletonised version of this class-leading perpetual calendar is in titanium, with mirror polished accents in scratch-resistant Palladium BMG and pops of rose gold on the dial and case back, though more colourways are sure to come in due time. Initial thoughts The latest generation of the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar is arguably AP’s strongest product. It is heir to the archetypal integrated bracelet perpetual calendar sports watch, which, until recently, was held back to some extent by what had become a dated movement. In fairness, the same can be said of its obvious competitors from Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. That changed in 2025 when the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar was upgraded with the AP’s latest perpetual calendar movement, a significant release befitting the brand’s 150th anniversary year. The calibre 7138 introduced individual correction of the date, day, month, and moon phase using only the crown, allowing for quick adjustment without tools and with greater flexibility, and support for more indications, than existing solutions. And while we already understood the movement’s clever functionality, it rema...

Seiko Luxe Presage SPB495 Review: An Enamel Value Proposition Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Feb 9, 2026

Seiko Luxe Presage SPB495 Review: An Enamel Value Proposition

Seiko has one of the most expansive catalogs in the watch industry, which is key to the Japanese brand’s prowess, but its nuances can also make it quite overwhelming at times to sort through from a consumer perspective. Today, I’m going for hyperspecificity on multiple levels, not only focusing on the brand’s “Luxe” tier, but also on a specific series within that tier, and on one watch, well, specifically. As you’ve likely already noticed from this article's title, we’re gathered here today to jump into the deep end with the Presage Classics Craftsmanship Series SPB495. Though its name doesn’t exactly roll off the tongue, the Seiko Presage SPB495, to me, truly demonstrates the dynamic range to be found within the contemporary Seiko lineup, given that you have the patience to sort through the complexities of the brand’s collections and naming convention nuances. [toc-section heading="History And Context"]  Seiko’s Craftsmanship series officially made its start in 2013 as the brand celebrated its centennial anniversary. Positioned within the larger Presage collection, this initiative has been a way for the brand to further enhance the collection's foundational elements, mainly being a mechanical line, guided by and harkening to Seiko’s centuries-long history, with a focused attention to its dials. Essentially, the Craftsmanship series adds in more sophisticated, high-end elements into the mix, paying tribute to many traditional, artisanal techniques th...