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Results for The 2017-2022 Vintage Market Boom

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Hands On: Ferdinand Berthoud FB 3SPC.4-1 SJX Watches
Ferdinand Berthoud Sep 15, 2026

Hands On: Ferdinand Berthoud FB 3SPC.4-1

The slate of truly new releases from Geneva Watch Days was fairly limited, but among the many new variants of existing models, the Ferdinand Berthoud FB 3SPC.4-1 stood out for its lightweight and richly tactile ceramised titanium case and casual, almost sporty look. Initial thoughts Ferdinand Berthoud (FB) is no stranger to exotic case materials, having used ceramised titanium before (for the FB 1RES.4) as well as carburised stainless steel and bronze. But the FB 3SPC.4-1 is just the second FB 3SPC to come dressed in a non-precious metal case, and the first with a ceramised coating. The FB 3SPC arguably gives up some ground in the looks department, though this is subjective; many collectors find the exposed movement preferable to a conventional dial, since it makes it easier to appreciate the finishing without taking off the watch. That said, the design impacts legibility and some aspects of the layout seem counterintuitive, such as the upside-down orientation of the dial-side balance wheel. The FB 3SPC debuted in 2022 and remains the high-end brand’s entry level model, though with a retail price approaching US$200,000, it’s priced in line with complicated models from established brands. The value proposition of this time-only watch hinges on the appeal of the cylindrical hairspring — which while not unique in contemporary watchmaking is executed superbly — and the no-expense-spared approach to finishing that FB is known for. The pricing also reflects the low-volum...

50 Years Of IWC’s Ingenieur SL Designed By Gérald Genta - A New IWC Ingenieur Automatic In Two Sizes Fratello
IWC s Ingenieur SL Designed Sep 15, 2026

50 Years Of IWC’s Ingenieur SL Designed By Gérald Genta - A New IWC Ingenieur Automatic In Two Sizes

Gérald Genta designed many masterpieces during his lifetime, but the IWC Ingenieur SL is often mentioned in the same breath as two of his greatest designs from the same decade. The IWC Ingenieur SL1832 was introduced in 1976, and 50 years later, it might be even stronger than ever. To celebrate this milestone, IWC has […] Visit 50 Years Of IWC’s Ingenieur SL Designed By Gérald Genta — A New IWC Ingenieur Automatic In Two Sizes to read the full article.

Introducing - DUG Glashütte Brings Compact 37mm Editions of its Purist Collection Monochrome
Sep 15, 2026

Introducing - DUG Glashütte Brings Compact 37mm Editions of its Purist Collection

Founded by Toni Brodführer, DUG Glashütte focuses on producing watches in accordance with the requirements of the Glashütte designation of origin, and the inaugural Purist was conceived as a straightforward proposition built around the traditions of Saxon watchmaking. The brand is now expanding the collection with a smaller case. The new Purist 37 retains the […]

Introducing: Victorinox Maverick (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Victorinox Maverick Live Pics What Sep 14, 2026

Introducing: Victorinox Maverick (Live Pics)

What We Know Victorinox has refreshed the Maverick in what amounts to the most dramatic reinvention of the line since it was first introduced over two decades ago. The Maverick line has long been a fixture in Victorinox's watch offerings, and the new generation introduced this week reinforces its position as Victorinox's "dressy" take on a dive (or dive-inspired) watch. The new Maverick, available in a handful of colors across quartz and automatic models, largely keeps the same ethos and intent as previous Mavericks, but sheds much (read: nearly all) of the visual identity that has made the Maverick recognizable over the last twenty-odd years. Now measuring 39mm across, the new watches are simpler, smaller, and more focused in their design than the outgoing generation. The watch is available in two basic models — one quartz, powered by a Ronda 715 movement, and the other automatic, powered by a Sellita SW200. The watches are largely similar, but a few subtle differences remain. The first is the bezel (bidirectional on both models). The quartz version uses a polished mineral insert, while the automatic uses a polished ceramic with a fully luminous scale. The markers are also slightly different, and while each version's caseback is decorated with a Swiss Army Knife, the caseback on the automatic is transparent with a wireframe graphic, while that of the quartz is solid with an engraved image. Beyond that, these watches are very similar, so choices come down to movement and...

Introducing: Benrus Type 3X (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Sep 14, 2026

Introducing: Benrus Type 3X (Live Pics)

What We Know With Benrus's revival well underway, 2026 opened with the reintroduction of the Sky Chief, a longtime Hodinkee favorite. Now the brand follows it with something new rather than another reissue: the Type 3X, developed in collaboration with U.S. Special Forces veterans. The watch traces back to the same premise that produced the original Type I and Type II: in the 1970s, the U.S. military wrote a formal MIL-SPEC for a wristwatch, and Benrus built the result. For the Type 3X, Benrus assembled a team of former Tier One special operations veterans to design a modern version of that watch from the ground up, prioritizing function over styling.  The Type 3X comes in two styles: one with a black composite-carbon case and a green mid-case, and another with a silver case and a black mid-case. Both pair a unidirectional rotating titanium dive bezel with an aluminum inner ring, and a single-domed sapphire crystal with a double anti-reflective coating. The black dial carries Old Radium Super-LumiNova on the markers and hands, with a date window aperture at 6 o'clock. Inside is the ETA 2893 automatic movement, delivering a 42-hour power reserve, 250 gauss of anti-magnetic resistance, and a 24-hour quickset GMT hand offering "caller-style" functionality. Water resistance is rated to 20 atm (660 feet). The case closes with a titanium caseback featuring the Benrus logo. The Type 3X comes on a color matching velcro fabric strap with an additional black rubber strap included. I...

SJX Podcast: In Conversation with Michel Nydegger SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey seems Sep 14, 2026

SJX Podcast: In Conversation with Michel Nydegger

With around 130 people producing just 200 watches per year, Greubel Forsey seems to have returned to its roots and abandoned plans to expand production further. On the latest episode of the SJX Podcast, CEO Michel Nydegger explains why the brand’s approach to watchmaking doesn’t scale and why growth is not a priority. Recorded just after Geneva Watch Days, the conversation covers co-founder Stephen Forsey’s departure from operations, the new Qualité Musée finishing standard, and the challenge of preserving the brand’s distinctive movement architecture in smaller watches. We also discuss the traditional skills behind the Hand Made series, how R&D; is pursued without a particular product in mind, and why (but not how) a watchmaker secretly slipped a dozen handmade hairsprings into regular production watches for unbiased real-world testing. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

Christophe Claret Is Back, And He Wants To Push Even Further This Time Fratello
Christophe Claret Sep 13, 2026

Christophe Claret Is Back, And He Wants To Push Even Further This Time

For more than three decades, Christophe Claret has been one of the names enthusiasts look to for unusual and interesting displays, animation, sound, and complications. Now, after a difficult period that saw the Christophe Claret brand enter insolvency proceedings, the independent watchmaker is beginning a completely new chapter. On August 27th, 2026, the brand announced […] Visit Christophe Claret Is Back, And He Wants To Push Even Further This Time to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Northflag Vs. Tudor Black Bay Pro Fratello
Tudor Northflag Vs Tudor Black Sep 13, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Northflag Vs. Tudor Black Bay Pro

It’s that time of the week again — time for Sunday Morning Showdown! And this week, regardless of who wins, Tudor blood will be spilled. That’s right, it’s Tudor versus Tudor in a battle of the brand’s yellow-handed, sporty GMT offerings. That includes the new Tudor Northflag GMT, introduced just over a week ago, and […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Northflag Vs. Tudor Black Bay Pro to read the full article.

Watches, Stories, & Gear: A Foldable iPhone, Nathan Fielder’s Latest Project, and a Football-Inspired Watch Worn & Wound
Sep 12, 2026

Watches, Stories, & Gear: A Foldable iPhone, Nathan Fielder’s Latest Project, and a Football-Inspired Watch

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. You Can See Everything Trailer Next to my wedding day and the birth of my niece, I can’t think of anything else that I’ve been this eager for in my entire life. This week, the trailer for You Can See Everything, the latest project by Nathan Fielder, dropped. For those unaware of Fielder’s work, there is no way to explain it properly without it sounding absolutely insane. His early hit Nathan for You followed the comedian giving bizarre business advice to real people, which led to, among other things: a fake Starbucks, a gas rebate that required hiking up a mountain, and an escape stunt where failure meant exposing himself to a group of children. His HBO series The Rehearsal brought on something of a Fielder renaissance, with the latest season culminating in Fielder flying a plane of paid actors in a Boeing 737. Just pure insanity. For You Can See Everything, Fielder’s latest subject is Elizabeth Holmes, the Theranos founder convicted of fraud after the collapse of her blood-testing company. Co-directed with Lance Oppenheim, the documentary follows Holmes in the 34 days before she reported to prison (and features an unsettling interaction between Fielder and Hol...

Fayy’s Manman Panda Watch Puts Chinese Inner Painting On Sapphire Fratello
Sep 12, 2026

Fayy’s Manman Panda Watch Puts Chinese Inner Painting On Sapphire

Fayy is making its debut with something hard to ignore. The Hong Kong-based brand has introduced the Manman Panda, a 39mm titanium watch with a hand-painted panda on the underside of its sapphire crystal. It features Chinese inner painting, a craft with more than two centuries of history, and Fayy has entered the watch in […] Visit Fayy’s Manman Panda Watch Puts Chinese Inner Painting On Sapphire to read the full article.

Highlights: Magnificent Pocket Watches at Sotheby’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Sep 11, 2026

Highlights: Magnificent Pocket Watches at Sotheby’s Hong Kong

In exactly a week, Sotheby’s Hong Kong will stage Important Watches, an impressive, two-day auction that includes a selection of outstanding pocket watches from Switzerland and Great Britain, namely timepieces by Patek Philippe and Charles Frodsham, with most of the latter made by Nicole Nielsen. Three watches stand out from this already elite herd, built by the best of London and Geneva – a modern grand complication, one of the first-ever flying tourbillon watches, and a minute-repeating pocket chronometer. Despite a recent uptick in interest, pocket watches still offer phenomenal value, and are often the most interesting lots in auction catalogues for movement nerds. The pocket watches in Sotheby’s upcoming sale exemplify this. Lot 2293 – Patek Philippe ref. 942/2 “Grande Complication” This is a relatively recent example of a historical Patek Philippe genre, the grande complication pocket watch, one that dates back over a century now. The common watch complications fall into three categories: chiming, timing, and calendars. Chiming watches include repeaters in all their resolutions, plus clock watches, alarms, and hour strikers. Chronographs, rattrapantes, dédoublantes and independent seconds functions are timing complications. Calendar complications, besides the obvious, include moon phase, time of sunrise and sunset, and equation of time. A triple complicated watch combines complications from all three families. For Patek Philippe this traditionally meant ...

Hands On: Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Regulator SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Sep 11, 2026

Hands On: Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Regulator

One of the most appealing releases of Geneva Watch Days was the Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Regulator. While not an altogether new model, the watch incorporates a number of welcome updates, including a smaller case and a more refined dial that resembles an instrument panel on the wrist. The L.U.C 98.02-L movement remains in service, and is both COSC and Poinçon de Genève-certified. Moreover, the calibre achieves an impressive nine days of power reserve and is neatly finished, as is typical for Chopard’s higher-end offerings. Initial thoughts Chopard has long been a steward of the regulator format. In fact, the 1963 Heritage Regulator marks 20 years since the brand’s first contemporary regulator wristwatch. The regulator format is strongly associated with precision clocks, but Chopard’s interpretation reminds me of an automotive dashboard — perhaps intentionally, since the brand’s co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele is known for his affinity for vintage cars. The latest example is substantially improved over prior generations, with several nips and tucks that result in a move wearable and less busy package overall. The watch is tangibly well made, with an expensive bill of materials and refined execution. The 1963 Heritage Regulator is priced at about US$50,000, and is limited to a concise run of 25 pieces in (ethically sourced) 18k white gold. By current standards, it’s a reasonable proposition, but still slightly above the going rate for a Patek Philippe...

Alpina Expands their Solar Quartz Offerings with New Startimer Pilot Solarmetre References Worn & Wound
Citizen Group who Sep 10, 2026

Alpina Expands their Solar Quartz Offerings with New Startimer Pilot Solarmetre References

As part of their Geneva Watch Days presentation, Alpina unveiled several new solar quartz references in their Solarmetre line, which effectively places solar quartz movements made by La Joux-Perret in familiar Alpina references. It’s about the most natural move possible from a business perspective. Alpina and La Joux-Perret are both owned by the Citizen Group, who of course make Citizen watches and have been leaning heavily into solar quartz technology for years. The Alpina watches sit at a higher price point than the average Citizen, so the expansion of solar quartz across Alpina’s collection naturally begins an interesting conversation about value for enthusiasts who might have an interest in both brands.  The core of the release last week would have to be a trio of new Startimer Pilot Solarmetre watches. These are solar quartz powered versions of the still new Alpina pilot watch introduced earlier this year at Watches & Wonders. I think the value here is in the particular way these watches take advantage of the smaller La Joux-Perret quartz movement compared to their mechanical counterparts. The mechanical versions of these watches measure 40mm in diameter and a hair over 10mm tall, while the Solarmetre watches come in at 38mm wide and 9.3mm thick. That’s a meaningful difference in size, with the added grab and go benefits of solar quartz (Alpina says the AL-140 movements here will run for 10 months in total darkness, and of course it doesn’t take much light to...

First Look - New Sensations with Hublot’s new Big Bang Original Soft Touch Models Monochrome
Hublot s new Big Bang Sep 10, 2026

First Look - New Sensations with Hublot’s new Big Bang Original Soft Touch Models

For over two decades, Hublot has embraced the ‘Art of Fusion’, blending unexpected materials like rubber, gold, ceramic, and sapphire into bold visual statements. The latest Big Bang Original Soft Touch pushes the boundaries even further, inviting us to experience how a watch feels. More than just a coating, Hublot has integrated a microscopic, textured […]

Gray Ceramic Debuts On Two New Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual Time Chronographs Fratello
Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual Sep 10, 2026

Gray Ceramic Debuts On Two New Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual Time Chronographs

For the first time in the Astron collection, Seiko introduces gray ceramic. The shiny non-alloy appears on the bezel, crown cap, and bracelet center links of two new Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual Time Chronograph watches. While these models share the ceramic parts, they have differently colored titanium components. The HAB007 is the full-gray version, […] Visit Gray Ceramic Debuts On Two New Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual Time Chronographs to read the full article.