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Deployant
Girard Perregaux is one of the Grande Dames of horology…and this year, they celebrate their 220th anniversary. They are showcasing 220 years of watchmaking history and expertise in a travelling exhibition. I will cover the event and exhibition today, and next week, will present you with high resolution photographs of two of the most outstandingRead More
Deployant
Today’s feature is the special watch produced by Lange for the Kidz Horizon auction scheduled for 27 August 2011 in Singapore. Please go here to read the Lange press release, and about Duncan Wang and Kidz Horizon. I photographed the press release photographs, and here I release a few more photographs from the same session.Read More
Deployant
Apologies for falling slightly behind on my postings. I was in Dresden for the final review of my book last week, and some blip with blogger.com caused the Friday post to disappear. But today, I go back one of my favourites…the Spring Drive… The bezel is in sapphire. Long before Rolex or anyone else startedRead More
Deployant
On Monday I showed the beautiful rose gold final version of the Jaeger LeCoultre Gyro Tourbillon. Today is another, arguably even more interesting, and certainly more complicated JLC timepiece. The aptly named Grande Tradition Grand Complication. The dial is an amazingly beautiful blue, engraved with the stars and firmament, the flying tourbillon makes its wayRead More
Deployant
Hublot is an amazing company…in the early days, they pushed innovation with scented rubber straps…which even today, is an interesting concept. But since Jean Claude Biver, the marketing supermo who started Blancpain in the 80s started to helm the company, it took off. Literally. Jean Claude introduced the concept of fusion…the fusion of old andRead More
Deployant
Am a bit tied up preparing for my book…more about this later…and for SIHH 2011, so am lagging a bit on watchscapes…a new word I coined for watch photographs…especially those with extreme macros, making the watch elememts look abstract and like landscapes. To tie the watch fans, here is a photograph of the older RolexRead More
Deployant
This year’s novelties at SIHH 2010 finally made it to our shores. I attended an evening hosted by Vacheron Constantin…great food, wonderful company, and of course, fine watches. The Historique Ultra-Fine 1968 in a square case, and the Historique Ultra-fine 1955 in the round case. The watches are truly thin, the 1956’s hand wound movementRead More
Fratello
You may congratulate me on finally becoming an adult. I always thought things like getting married and buying a house were signs of adulthood. I was wrong. You’re only really a grown-up if you own a dress watch. The problem was that my mind and taste hadn’t matured enough to look for one. Once I […] Visit Why I Bought My Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Manual-Winding to read the full article.
SJX Watches
The early days of the wristwatch were interesting for the variety of forms and functions that were conceived as watchmakers were experimenting with a nascent device. One such watch is the Audemars Piguet triple calendar with moon phase in platinum from 1927 that’s one of the top lots in Monaco Legend’s upcoming sale. Now almost 100 years old, this triple calendar exemplifies the period when wristwatches, particularly complicated ones, were expensive and cutting-edge objects. Form cases in general seem to have been fashionable when wristwatches were a novelty. Leaving aside the round “trench” watches used by soldiers, many of the landmark wristwatch designs for civilians were in form cases. Examples include the Cartier Tank, Santos, and Tonneau. Many such wristwatches were time only, but there was clearly a tiny handful of clients for complicated wristwatches. Calendar watches, many in form cases, were also in vogue. Most prestigious watchmakers produced such watches, albeit on a tiny scale in a near-artisanal manner, making each of these watches almost unique. Breguet, for example, sold a tonneau-shaped retrograde perpetual calendar in 1935 to Coco Chanel’s romantic partner. Audemars Piguet made fewer than 50 such rectangular triple calendar wristwatches in the 30 years from 1924, and this is the one example known in platinum. All of these watches were powered by the cal. 10GHSM, as this one is, save for the very first example that was made in 1924 and now reside...
Hodinkee
I'm not the biggest birthday person. I largely subscribe to Patton Oswalt's take that, once you're past about 21, if your oncoming age doesn't end in a '0' (or maybe a '5,' but even that's a stretch), you can largely skip the celebrations and fuss. That said, I'm always willing to make an exception, and when I learned that A. Lange & Söhne — truly and unreservedly one of my favorite watch brands of all time — was coming to New York City to celebrate its birthday weekend this year, I was excited. Walter Lange, Günther Blümlein, and Hartmut Knothe at the 1994 launch of the Lange 1, Saxonia, Arkade, and Tourbillon "Pour le Mérite." Image, courtesy A. Lange & Söhne. It turns out my excitement was well rewarded: not only did the brand drop what may immediately be my favorite release of 2026, a new Datograph Perpetual, but they also put together a retrospective exhibit that would have thrilled any Lange fan. They even managed to track down the exact same Soviet-era stacking chairs. These few had to be shipped from Poland, but it was worth getting it right for the photo op. With a collection that featured everything from antique Lange pocket watches — produced before the company was subsumed by the German state in anticipation of the Second World War — to highly technical modern offerings from the brand, this display, which was hosted in the William Ziegler Mansion (better known today as the Academy Mansion), just a stone's throw from both Central Park and the A. Lan...
Worn & Wound
It’s finally autumn (even here in California), which means changing leaves, tasty hot beverages, and a smattering of new Sinn novelties. Like the coziest cafe array of apple ciders, hot chocolates, and pumpkin spice lattes, this latest trio of pieces from the German independent are as diverse as they are classically Sinn-flavored. You may not be surprised by the clean and efficient designs that the brand is known for, but Sinn has a rather colorful surprise up their sleeve—read on to find out more. 556 I FAZ II Green and Orange Limited Editions Love your watches simple and tactical, but want a little more color on the wrist? The new 556 I FAZ II may be for you. Made in collaboration with respected Sunday newspaper Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung (FAZ), it comes in two appropriately fall-flavored colors—orange and green—but maintains the reliable pilot watch legibility and functionality to keep the design subtle and professional. The stainless steel and satinized case has a diameter of 38.5mm with a thickness of 11mm (including the sapphire crystal), making it solid but not big, which should bode well for the vast majority of wrist sizes. In classic Sinn fashion, the dial is kept free of distraction, with just the Sinn logo at 12 o’clock, and a date window at 6. The dial itself is crisp electroplated silver to match the off-white hue of newsprint, providing excellent contrast with the orange and green accents respectively. Depending on which color model you cho...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Our 10 favorite Seiko watches of 2026, from a $400 Seiko 5 field watch and the SSK059 GMT to King Seiko, the Marinemaster, and a panda chronograph.
Teddy Baldassarre
With a striking maroon color palette, the latest Special Edition Seiko SKX GMT HDB016 seems like it's begging to be nicknamed the "Dr Pepper."
Hodinkee
What We Know Matt Hranek, founder of WM Brown and author of A Man & His Watch, has collaborated with Timex for the first time on a dress watch. Designed exclusively for WM Brown, it is a tank-shaped steel watch with a light grey dial and a quartz movement. The stainless steel case measures 26.5 x 41.3mm with a 20mm lug width. The top is vertically brushed, the sides are horizontally brushed, with a polished diamond-cut edge and sharply inclined lugs. The light grey dial has a two-hand layout with small seconds at six o'clock (with a subtle WM Brown logo) and full Arabic numerals. The WM Brown wordmark sits at the bottom of the dial alongside the Timex branding. It is powered by a Miyota 1L40 quartz movement and has a mineral glass lens, a customized case back and 50 meters of water resistance. The watch comes as a gift set with two options: a brown leather strap with a stainless steel buckle and a stainless steel bracelet with a butterfly deployant clasp. The WM Brown x Timex gift set costs $349 and includes both the bracelet and strap. It is available now through Timex and WM Brown. What We Think A WM Brown and Timex collaboration feels so right. Hranek and Timex went with something a little more refined and dressy, and I think it works. The color scheme typically used in the WM Brown logo has been replaced with a monochromatic logo that integrates subtly into the dial. The dress-watch foundation suits the partnership, and the design feels as seamless as the collaboration...
WatchRider
Attending the WARO (Watching Romania) event in Bucharest is always an exciting experience for anyone who genuinely loves horology. It is one of those watch gatherings where you do not just admire timepieces through display cases, you actually get to talk to creators, feel the weight of the cases, and discover microbrands that rarely get the mainstream spotlight. During our latest visit, one brand in particular caught our attention at the tables: Vertigo Watches. Hailing from Rome, Italy, Vertigo is an independent microbrand focused on delivering solid mechanical design, distinctive aesthetics, and strong value for money. While browsing their collection, three specific models stood out. Here is our grounded, hands-on look at what Vertigo brings to the wrist. Vertigo Pilot One V2 Full Lume The Pilot One V2 Full Lume immediately catches your eye, even in normal ambient light. Flieger and pilot-style watches usually focus on stark legibility, but Vertigo took it a step further here by coating the entire dial surface in luminous material. It comes in a 41mm stainless steel case with a thickness of 14mm, giving it a solid presence on the wrist without feeling overly cumbersome. Inside, it houses the manual-wind Seagull ST1901 mechanical chronograph movement. Watching the hand-wound movement through the display back adds that tactile connection many collector enthusiasts crave. VERTIGO Tornante Black: Vintage Motorsport Energy Moving away from aviation and into th...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
We compare the Tudor Pelagos FXD and Seiko Turtle, exploring their military dive watch heritage, hands-on performance, and whether the Tudor's higher price is justified.
Fratello
Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, I am alone in the driver’s seat while Mike enjoys his much-deserved birthday time off. Join us in wishing a happy (belated) birthday to “Mike Stockton from London, England.” Instead, we invited our friend Sébastien Chaulmontet, Sellita’s head of innovation and the man behind […] Visit Fratello On Air: Sébastien Chaulmontet On Sellita, Albishorn, And Vintage Watches to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet has finally launched its long-rumoured certified pre-owned (CPO) programme, The Watch Keepers. The digital platform acts as an intermediary between buyers and sellers, giving consignors the choice of selling at a fixed price or through an auction. Audemars Piguet is neither a buyer nor the seller, instead it is the facilitator. The move comes at a time when the secondary market for luxury watches is becoming increasingly professionalised, with brands taking a more active role through CPO. As noted earlier this year, the opportunity goes beyond earning revenue from watches already sold: it gives brands greater control over the pre-owned buying experience previously left to dealers and auction houses. A unique CPO model Unlike Rolex, which leverages its global network of authorised dealers to handle pricing and customer interactions for its own CPO programme, Audemars Piguet’s direct sales model means that it has to take on a bigger role. As a result, The Watch Keepers becomes the intermediary between the seller and the buyer, registering both parties and validating the authenticity of the watch. The Watch Keepers also handles all photography, and prepares the listings with verified technical details and a condition assessment. This takes much of the preparation off the seller’s hands and should give buyers greater confidence in the watch’s specifications and condition. It also helps level the playing field between sellers with different levels of exper...
Hodinkee
"If you build it, they will come." It's the age-old quote about watchmaking, wrapped somewhat curiously in a sentimental movie about baseball, if I'm interpreting things right. A. Lange & Söhne is finally having its overdue moment among collectors for doing what it's always done: making beautiful, mechanically impressive watches with a more traditional, high-touch approach. Sticking with the baseball analogy, it's the Milwaukee Brewers playing old-school small ball and getting into the World Series. Nostalgia hits hard, and the one constant through all the years, Ray, has been watchmaking—or something like that. And yet, when you get down to it, something has been missing from the Lange lineup—a gap for true deep-cut collectors who begged for a certain something that disappeared from the catalog in the late 2000s. People yearned for bracelets, with the word Wellendorff hanging in the air long after the brand ended its partnership with the Pforzheim jewelry maker. When the Lange-loving Hodinkee team saw the new Datograph Perpetual on bracelet, in all its heavy glory, it was an impressive culmination of past and present. "It reminds of us of all that once was good and it could be again." “Wellendorff” Bracelets and the Secondary Market I was recently reminded that my first experience with an A. Lange & Söhne was one on a Wellendorff bracelet. I was attending a local RedBar meet-up when a noted collector of the brand walked up wearing a Datograph Perpetual in platin...
Deployant
A quick look at the Berneron Mirage 38 Prussian Blue. We handle and photograph this watch, with its warped movement, curved hands and distorted case.
SJX Watches
Armin Strom’s Minute Repeater Resonance 12:59 First Edition doesn’t just chime the current time, it chimes the best time (12:59) to show off its Westminster Carillon of four hammers chiming on four gongs. The watch combines the clever chiming complication with a clever chronometric innovation: a pair of sprung balances connected by an elastic “resonance clutch spring”, one of the brand’s signature invention. And all of that somehow squeezed into a water-resistant, 42 mm case that is slimmer than most chronographs. Initial thoughts Armin Strom’s repeater probably deserves an award for the brand’s most improved product. Its predecessor was 47.7 mm in diameter and 16.1 mm tall, while this is a wearable 42 mm and only 11.7 mm thick. That makes it slimmer than a Rolex Daytona — though most of the height is borne by the mid-case, making the watch look thicker than it is. It’s also somehow more water resistant, up to 50 m from an already solid 30 m, yet it costs just 2% more at the current retail price. That is before mentioning the Westminster Carillon, demonstration-chiming mode, and the more attractive design. The “demonstration mode”, which allows the watch to chime 12:59 on demand regardless of the current time, is well executed and suits the job of the repeater in the 21st century, which goes beyond simply telling time in the dark. Furthermore, the sound is good — pleasant and audible — but wristwatch minute repeaters have improved dramatically in ...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Hands-on with the blue TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph CDW2181.FC8360, exploring its titanium case, dial, movement, and wrist comfort.
Teddy Baldassarre Videos
In this video, our VP of Content Danny Milton reviews the Seiko 5 Sports Field GMT in Beige and Green! Pairing a tactical, retro tool-watch vibe in two new colors with a true mechanical GMT movement for under $500, the HDB001 & HDB002 may be the cleanest Seiko 5 Sports Field GMT versions yet. Check out the video to
WristBuzz
The Datograph Perpetual goes full platinum, adds baguette-cut diamond hour markers, and gets a five-link bracelet. Only 50 will ever exist.
Fratello
Howdy, folks! And welcome back to another Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, we’re putting up two watches that are similar in many ways, despite being produced in countries separated by just under 10,000 kilometers of land (and a little bit of sea). Both of them draw inspiration from 1970s design. They feature integrated bracelets and […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Orient Flusso Vs. Tissot PRX to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Leica Q3 43 Formula 1 Edition It’s no secret that we’re big fans of Leica around these parts and, while I’ve never seen a single race, I think there’s something – dare I say it? – sexy about Formula 1. Combining the two into a new collaboration feels very much up my alley. The first release from the new Leica and Formula 1 partnership is a special-edition Q3 43. Carbon fiber appears on the wireless-charging handgrip, thumb rest and soft-release button, while the body uses a black Microvelour covering inspired by racing steering wheels. Red accents show up on the controls, and the F1 logo appears on both the top plate and lens cap. A co-branded rope strap is included as well. Under the hood, it’s still the Q3 43, with its 60MP full-frame sensor and fixed 43mm f/2 lens. Leica has also created an exclusive Formula 1 Leica Look through its FOTOS app, adding more contrast and saturation for shooting around the track and paddock. The Leica Q3 43 Formula 1 Edition is available now via Leica for the low, low price of $9,950. Fujifilm Expands Instax Production Oh, God, to be a teenager in the early 2000s and discovering Polaroids, 500 Days of Summer and Urban Outfitters. What a time to be ALIVE! While I’ve made a tiny little career for myself by posting photos online, I miss the tactility and charm of a proper instant photo. Well, it seems I’m not alone. Fujifilm just announced another $19 million investment in Instax film production in Japan, with new production ...
Fratello
If you were planning to revive a sleeping watchmaking brand from the late 19th century, where would you start? Most rational folks would probably source a batch of reliable off-the-shelf Swiss or Japanese automatic movements, drop them into a neatly polished case, and spend the rest of the quarter on marketing. But Lin Xiaolin isn’t […] Visit Atelier Mephalie Makes A Comeback With Three In-House Minute Repeaters From Shanghai to read the full article.
SJX Watches
After several years in the red and challenging market conditions predicted, Zenith is seeking higher ground by focusing on high-end watchmaking, eliminating about 200 jobs in the process. As reported by Swiss newspaper Le Temps, chief executive Benoit de Clerk broke the news to employees on Thursday, citing the strong Franc, US tariffs, and weak demand from the Middle East and Asia. Zenith’s pivot was foreshadowed by the excellent GFJ line launched last year, and comes in the wake of Jean Arnault taking charge of the LVMH’s watch brands, namely Zenith, TAG Heuer, and Hublot, after having engineered Louis Vuitton’s ascent into fine watchmaking. The middle market, which Zenith flees, is particularly brutal – expensive to play in and competitive. Zenith is not the only one to abandon it, Mr de Clerk also referenced the closure of Montblanc’s Le Locle factory, as that brand too shifts focus upmarket. Zenith’s greatest strengths, its mature, capable manufacturing base and wide distribution, are oversized for the brand’s production volume. Unable to feed this beast or put it to work, Zenith will be cutting about a hundred jobs, roughly half of its workforce, in Le Locle, and a further hundred in retail and distribution. In 2024, LVMH announced plans to grow Zenith’s Le Locle manufacture to supply other group brands with movements. Hublot had been using Zenith movements for a decade already, and LVMH envisioned an entire catalog of Zenith-made “in-house” move...
WatchAdvice
Raymond Weil’s Toccata Heritage wears its inspiration on its sleeve, but is the flash backed up by substance? Let’s find out! What We Love: Elegant, flowing case Beautiful movement Incredible price point What We Don’t: Soft but fragile strap Power reserve feels low compared to on-paper Is luxury ever attainable? Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 8/10 The definition of luxury is, for the most part, anyone’s guess. Maybe it’s the hundred-million-dollar, feature-laden superyacht crewed by Playboy models, or perhaps it’s something as mundane as a carton of eggs at the grocery store. I find that luxury is relative to one’s financial circumstances: a want that’s just slightly out of reach, not entirely necessary to one’s sanity or physical wellbeing, but something whose acquisition feels like reaching a new level in life. This is entirely different from a pipe dream, such as the aforementioned superyacht, but the watch world often treats the two as one and the same. Luxury watches aren’t often considered truly luxurious until they cross a certain price threshold, usually somewhere in the high four or five figures, if not six. But ‘accessible luxury’ isn’t quite the oxymoron the industry might have you believe, and Raymond Weil is proof. Since 1976, the independent watchmaker has sought to make traditional elegance more attainable, offering classically styled timepieces at comparatively acce...
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-weekly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Hamilton Masterpiece First up this week is this super clean and sharp vintage Hamilton Masterpiece dress watch. The 33mm yellow gold filled case is crisp and unpolished, with stylish slim lugs. The caseback is engraved with a presentation award for 25 years of service to the Presque Isle company in 1980. The silver dial looks pristine, with applied gold stick markers and lume filled gold dauphine hands. Time only with no date, just clean, simple goodness. The winding crown is original and signed with the Hamilton “H” logo. The manual wind Hamilton caliber 832 movement is clean and runs well per the seller. The watch comes on a stylish leather strap that looks great on it. View auction here Vintage Seiko 5 Actus Here’s a nice chunky vintage Seiko 5 Actus sporty watch. The 41mm round case is unpolished with sharp edges and the original brushed finish. The dial is a silver/champagne color with cool hour markers and unusual hands. They are both steel with black and lume inserts, but the hour hand is really broad, which gives it a somewhat unique look. There is of course the ubiquitous day/date window at three o’clock. The small crown is recessed into the side of the broad...
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